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96 michigan l90 start

williambogner

Active Member
Joined
Nov 30, 2015
Messages
26
Location
tolland ct
got a 96 bm michigan/volvo l90 loader. just acquired it a few days ago. up here in CT right now it gets down into the 30-40s at night so its really not that cold. i use the preheater that it has and shell start but it cranks a long time. I'd love for it to not crank that long and I'd really love not to have to use preheater...any adjustments on the pump for helping? i think its a td61 or td71. Shouldn't be so hard to start

thanks
 

thepumpguysc

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Master Inj.Pump rebuilder
Depending on what injection pump is on it..
Does it have a lift pump bolted to the side of the inj. pump w/ a hand primer?? Just pump the HP before trying to start.. THAT"LL give you an idea of if its a fuel bleed back problem..
Some of the pictures on-line show an electric cold start solenoid on the side of the inj. pump.. That must be activated to allow the control rack to go to "starting fuel"..
In other words>> need more information.
 

sfrs4

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parts admin
ok so it's an L90C as the straight old L90's weren't produced in 96 and the L90c Volvo BM 's were last produced in 96, so it has a TD63kbe engine and the important bit that pumpguy will need to know is its got the bosch 0 401 846 994 pump on it, can't see any reference to the cold start solenoid on the parts drawings?
 

williambogner

Active Member
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Nov 30, 2015
Messages
26
Location
tolland ct
it has the primer on the pump....it did not make a difference starting it. still long crank and hard start. There also is a two wire solenoid on the side of the pump.
 

thepumpguysc

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The "994 pump" does not have a cold start devise{CSD}
BUT IF YOURS DOES..{no pump #'s} try 12volts & see what happens.. SOME are 24v, so get some cleaner & see what it says.. its stamped.
The throttle then needs to be put in the wide open position to start. Hope this helps.
 

sfrs4

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The solenoid, is it on a bracket at the governor end of the pump? if so that will be the stop solenoid.
 

williambogner

Active Member
Joined
Nov 30, 2015
Messages
26
Location
tolland ct
I'm going to attach some photos. it looks like there's a larger wire going to the preheated coil on the intake. also, there is a small 1/4 pic line that runs to the intake and back to the injection pump side, my finger is on one of the photos for this line. sorry for bad pics, I have a flip phone.
 

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funwithfuel

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Mar 7, 2017
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Will county Illinois
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Ok, that clarifies a lot. First, those rubber lines are not your friends. They're old and deteriorating on the inside. You do NOT have to get factory hose. Just cut the crimp band from the banjo fitting. You'll have a nice barb there. Perfect for fuel grade push-lok hose. Do one at a time. From the tank and back. Make sure you replace all the copper seals and don't overtorque the screws as you'll deform the banjo where nothing will reseal.
Second, you have the grid heater style pre heater. Those are the best. They work. You'd be surprised how long you should wait after the light goes out.
Lastly, the more invasive things to look at. The primer pumps on the lift pump are known to allow air intrusion. The overflow valve , if weak will cause hard starting allowing drain back when off.
Of course this is all AFTER servicing fuel filters and slurry bowl first. Nobody ever services the slurry bowl.
Good luck
 

thepumpguysc

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Master Inj.Pump rebuilder
Mf'r gonna put me outta business.. LOL..
That "gizmo" on the side IS the cold start devise.. BUT as FWF stated, you could have air in the system..
Make sure you have voltage TO the CSD.. I don't know if it runs off the key switch OR a manual "push button" switch..
As a side note> theres no law against pressure washing your engine BEFORE you work on it.. Lol
 

thepumpguysc

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Master Inj.Pump rebuilder
HAHAHA.. THAT was meant in the lightest of tones.. Your new here so I could see where you may have taken it the wrong way.. I have a VERY WARPED sense of humor.. Things "sound better" in my head but translate "alittle" differently on paper.. especially after work when my fingers have gotten to the frig. 3 or 4x.. if ya know what I mean??
Believe me. I was laughing when I typed it..
What it translates to is> your insight is VERY HELPFUL & probably on the money.. keep up the good work.
 

williambogner

Active Member
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Nov 30, 2015
Messages
26
Location
tolland ct
ok, didn't quite follow you on cutting the crimp ends on the banjo but I'm sure ill figure it out. So, Im going to check voltage to a. the preheater grid on the intake, as well as b. the csd on the pump. If i understand correctly, on that pump, with the two wire's going to it, thats the csd? Ill work on cleaning it up and replacing whatever lines and seals need to be replaced.
 

funwithfuel

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Will county Illinois
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Ok, cool, thanks. I see you contribute a ton here. I dont wanna pi** any one off. As big as the world is, the internet makes it dinky. As a dealer mechanic i hated giving up information. But i see so many guys struggle, then get gouged by some tech who doesn't know what he's doing but has the position of "dealer mechanic " . They should know what they're doing but they're learning on the customers dime. That drives me up a wall.
BTW pumps are the one thing I won't go into. Not my forté it's all black magic and voo-doo.
I am not so thin skinned, just throwing a jab in, in a world of snowflakes and us.
OP sorry we got off-topic. Since your machine runs , I think you'll do fine, if you follow what we have provided. BTW pics helped tremendously to help you.
 

funwithfuel

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Will county Illinois
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Mechanic
One more thing as I reread your post. Are you using the preheat function properly. It is not like cars and trucks.
Turn the ignition to the run position, then just past ignition is called "half-start" hold it there then press the pre-heat enable button. You should hear the solenoid engage with a dull thud. At this point you can release the key to run position. Then, wait 30 long seconds. Then she should fire right up.
*****NOTE****
VOLVO engines with pump line and nozzle are traditionally low compression by diesel standards. They need the heat to get going. Never, NEVER EVER use ether. !!!! That stuff is like crack. Use it once and your engine is dependent on it. Not to mention you can cause terrible internal damage. Never let a tech spray that crap. In your engine, no matter how good they say they are.
 

funwithfuel

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Will county Illinois
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In the pic, the red line runs the length of the crimp band. Cut carefully , the length then flip it over and cut again, this will let you remove the hose from the nipple.
Hope this helps.
 

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