06 CAT 277B restoration

See Harwal seal. Call them for prices. they have 3 locations in the US

Just throwing it out there BUT>> what about cutting the Delron thick enough to hold an oring on the outer diameter ??
GOD FORBID someone comes up w/ a better mouse trap than the "almighty" OEM..
Like I like to tell them.. look folks, its called "product improvement".. they LOVE terms like that.. {no ****}
"IF" I had $5.00 or even .50 of every product sold that I improved & GAVE IT to the OEM's.. I'd be Warren Buffet rich..
I thought about & even contacted a patent attorney ONCE.. they wanted 10 THOUSDAND $ just to research the idea.. I was poor at the time so THAT was a no-go.. Patents are expensive.. lol
I guess it takes money to make money.. so I've heard..
Keep at it HVY.. you'll get it.. good luck..
BTW.. if the oring idea pans out?? well, you know where I'm goin'.. lol

I think that I would cut an aluminum disc with a quad ring on the ID and OD with a snap ring on the axle to hold it in place.

hmm. thepumpguy is on to something, maybe the durability of aluminum, and the finesse of the internal O-ring, it would hold up... all it has to do is keep rocks and junk off of the internal china bearings.

Ill look into it. Only thing I see being a pain in the ass, is cutting the internal O-ring groove lol, ill have to grind a custom tool to manually do it on the lathe.

If you have room and you should I would still run a standard shaft seal behind the aluminum disc. The bearing seals are not that tough.

I think your "pickin up what I'm putting down" Cut the Delron thick enough to cut a groove into the OD of the circle then tap it into place.. you should think about tapping some holes in it for removal purposes.. maybe not ALL THE WAY thru cuz that would defeat the purpose.
Then again, I'm not there & don't have a friggin clue what I'm talkin about.. lol
I don't know what thickness you have to work with.. is what I really meant to say.. lol

its like .9 thick, although plastic is easy enough to thread and remove yourself. To be honest.... you shouldnt have to replace these for the life of the engine.....

OK NOW.. if it shows up in KIT form on the web.. I'm gonna need a few 100 grand for my idea.. lol
Kinda like the guy who invented the intermittent wipers.. he kept his patent & took 1 PENNY for every unit sold.. he was a godzillionare.. I'll just sell it, cuz we're internet buddies.. lol
Seriously tho.. I do hope it works out for ya.. TPG

Hope it works too, I may have 600k in machines, but turning this inner O-ring gland will be a MF'er, I made one for a suppressor the other day and it nearly took 5 hours and tweaking it to fit just right.

I've got a big question for anyone that had done hydraulics.... Can I get separate seals to seal up my pilot controls?

When you refill the rollers use a grease oil slurry mix. It will stay in far longer than oil and lube better.
When I got my 287 most of the seals were leaking a bit. I changed out the oil for a grease oil mixture and haven't had any failures in 4 years.

hvguy said:

I've got a big question for anyone that had done hydraulics.... Can I get separate seals to seal up my pilot controls?

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Not unless Cat sells them. The should be Rexroth controls . ASV offers a logic block which is the lower portion of the control. RR may offer a seal kit if you can ID the control, or match up the old METRIC seals.

Mobiltech said:

When you refill the rollers use a grease oil slurry mix. It will stay in far longer than oil and lube better.
When I got my 287 most of the seals were leaking a bit. I changed out the oil for a grease oil mixture and haven't had any failures in 4 years.

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I went with a sealed grease bearing and am probably going with the OEM seals with some grease behind them for added measure.

f311fr1 said:

Not unless Cat sells them. The should be Rexroth controls . ASV offers a logic block which is the lower portion of the control. RR may offer a seal kit if you can ID the control, or match up the old METRIC seals.

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After its all together, ill poke around and see if I can find some seals. The boots were ripped and I noticed that the controls were leaking... Some people say it takes a rocket surgeon to fix them.

See attached info on the Rexroth pilot controls. If it is leaking it is probably between the logic block and the handle assembly. Anything above the logic block should be dry. The ASV version is abot $800.00 new for the complete assembly.ASV Rexroth joy stick info.pdf

f311fr1 said:

See attached info on the Rexroth pilot controls. If it is leaking it is probably between the logic block and the handle assembly. Anything above the logic block should be dry. The ASV version is abot $800.00 new for the complete assembly.ASV Rexroth joy stick info.pdf

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The machine is cat with ASV tracks, does this matter? Or do they both have rexroth controls

do not know for sure

finally sold my tractor, ill be buying tracks and seals very soon.

"bumps mic" is this thing still on?

Long story short, I planned on buying tracks with the money from my tractor... problem is; I had just bought a new (09) truck and it needed a flatbed/belts/oil change everything/alignment and that pretty much used up all the tractor money... so I changed my plans and decided to use the money from selling my other truck to fund this project... here we are 3 months later trying to sell the truck and I have a guy on the hook. Fingers crossed!

In leu of that, I decided to move the machine from deep storage (randomly out in the field under a tree) to its repair area next to my container, prop it up on jack stands (logs) and get as much done as possible before the tracks come.

I had to pull the short track (its 1 lug too short).... I have NO idea how in the hell they got this thing on there... I couldn't use my telehandler because it would pull it off the stands. I ended up using a chain come-along. Slowly, 1/8 of an inch at a time, it rolled off. Took 4.5 hours. Thankfully I did all this at night while it was only 83 outside

Torched all the bogie carrier bolts off and trucked them to the main shop to disassemble them, press out the old races and press in the new bearings, press in the shaft and clip it in place awaiting seals. So far ive only power washed the carriers and painted them, disassembled the individual bogies and separated the outer wheels to access the seal and bearing race.

There are 8 bolts per side, 2 sides, 12 bogies per machine.... thats 192 bolts, 80% of the nuts got stuck in the socket, had to hammer out probably half of the carriage bolts.... it was a nightmare. New hardware is going in everywhere.

Now I only need to figure out if some of these outer wheel plates (if that's what they are called) can be re-used since they are ground out from the bearings being destroyed. Seeing as they protect the seal, they probably need to be in good shape, but I REALLY don't want to make new ones.

So, after months of saving, I finally bought the tracks and seals.

Today I began knocking all the old bearings and seals from the original bogies and installing a new bearings and seals... unfortunately the bearings arent giving up without a fight.
I search high and low for an extended length air hammer chisel with absolutely NO luck... So I picked up 2 packs of chisels from harbor freight, hacked the end off and extended it with some hardened shaft I had lying around in my shop, heated the working end and quenched it for added strength. Even then, my snap-on air hammer couldnt push them free.

Ive currently resorted to turning my plasma cutter all the way down (10A) and cutting a notch in the seal and bearing to make a crushing point. This is working, but taking a lot of time.

The other problem ive noticed is that 3 of the bogies had their seals ground all the way to the tube, and rounded the end hole so big; that the new seal literally just drops in place.... therefore I need to replace those tubes, which will cost $156 each.
Im going to call some more salvage places around the US and try to buy up some used ones, and pickup some extra bogie wheels since some of mine look VERY worn.


NOW, I installed a new battery in the skid, and plugged in the fuel pump (which I thought was dead, but a bench test revealed that it wasnt receiving power from the harness) only to find out that the pump is only turned on when the engine is cranking. No biggie, glad to see something works!
When the engine is idling, all is well, 100% throttle runs good as well. Its that mid range 60-95% throttle that it puffs and stutters. The tank was cleaned, and new filter installed.... still does it. Im hoping maybe the injectors are toast? I might try some 2 stroke oil... I remember this working wonders for my old cummins.... brought her back to life.... or.. more like gave me some more borrowed time before the lift pump finally quits.

Here is a video of it: