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Cat 225 LC rear main seal replacement project

kshansen

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Mar 11, 2012
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11,129
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Central New York, USA
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Retired Mechanic in Stone Quarry
It looks like it will hold water, fill it up and wait for it to freeze, rotate 90 degrees and try it again. Might work?

Weld or plug all the holes except one, hook a paint sprayer to that one and pump in the water. That would have the power to ruin the flywheel, possibly the threads on the crank too, if the pressure held.

Now that's a novel approach!

Clean off all the dirt, oil and loose rust then get some good tape like Gorilla tape and seal all but one opening near the top. Fill with water and hope for a good freeze overnight. That might just work! What have you got to loose a couple dollars for the tape and a gallon of water. Only problem is waiting for freezing weather in NJ. But if it's been sitting since July what's a couple more weeks.

Anyone who doesn't think ice can impart much pressure needs to take a schedule 40 pipe nipple and two pipe caps. Put cap on one end and fill with water then put cap on the other end and stick it in the freezer! I recall having a problem with bulges in the front frame of our 560 Hough loaders, the supports for the cab. These were something like 3/4 to 1 inch thick steel plate. We were trying to figure out why they had this bulge in them and got the idea it had to be from ice in the winter. Took a cutting torch and put a small hole down at the lowest point and sure enough a steady ****** of rusty water poured out
 

Delmer

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Jan 3, 2013
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WI
I was thinking just pour water in until it's full to the lowest hole. The dynamics are going to be different with what water freezes first with all that steel. It might not work, but it might. If you see a little loose rust in the joint after it warms up, then rotate the engine and try another spot.
 

Dapperdan16

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Jan 16, 2012
Messages
158
Location
New Jersey
Hello everyone, sorry I haven't been around, Dad was in the hospital having heart work again "he had bypass surgery in 2010" this time had stents put in, he's all good thank God, so between that and work haven't had any time, but anyway I haven't made any progress at all, I have beat this plate so hard, "it's dented up pretty good" tried heating just the flywheel and used 4 cans of pb blaster still won't budge, can anyone tell me if they make a replacement adapter plate? I'm thinking I am going to use a cutoff wheel on my grinder and cut the plate, my serial number is 76u03957 Thanks for any help
 

Cmark

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Jan 2, 2009
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3,176
Location
Australia
There's a classic part available, part number 2310268. It's in Belgium and you should be able to get it for about $800.
 

kshansen

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Joined
Mar 11, 2012
Messages
11,129
Location
Central New York, USA
Occupation
Retired Mechanic in Stone Quarry
There's a classic part available, part number 2310268. It's in Belgium and you should be able to get it for about $800.
That "Classic" part number does show as being $650 on SIS here in NY but with the note to check with dealer for availability, so it could be that the one Cmark mentioned as being in Belgiium is the only one and the shipping to USA might be the difference in price.
 

Cmark

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Jan 2, 2009
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3,176
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Australia
You've got it Ken! It's the only one in the world and I took a guess on the shipping cost.
 

Dapperdan16

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Jan 16, 2012
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158
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New Jersey
WOW!!! NOT CHEAP Thanks Kshansen and Cmark, has anyone ever run into an adapter plate that would not brake loose ?? maybe I can find a good used one if not I guess I will have to bite the bullet
 

Dapperdan16

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Jan 16, 2012
Messages
158
Location
New Jersey
is the adapter plate the same on a cat 215, they also had the 3304 correct? I know the 225 came with a 3208 US machine and 3304 begum machine does the 3208 8cyl also use the same plate? thanks everyone. I found a guy on eBay that is parting out a 215 so hopefully this could be an option
 

Dapperdan16

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Jan 16, 2012
Messages
158
Location
New Jersey
TODAY WAS THE DAY!!!! I would just like to thank every single member who gave their ideas on this adapter plate removal project. I got out of work early today and decided this thing has to come off. I sprayed it down with Pb blaster cranked down on the puller as tight as I could get it using a 4ft piece of pipe and started beating on it with a 12lb hammer, finally saw the littlest bit of movement, so I continued to spray it, beat it, and tighten the puller each time it moved, after about an hour or so it came flying out of there. Thanks again everyone
Danny
 

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Dapperdan16

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Jan 16, 2012
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New Jersey
Thanks Cmark, you were right, I had to get brutal on it, alot of hammer rash on her now. I'm pretty sure it's still usable, I tried uploading pics of it "did they post" besides a few marks from hammering on it she seems ok.
Danny
 

lantraxco

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Jan 1, 2009
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Elsewhen
Bit of smoothing up should be okay... I wonder if your local driveline shop could maybe check the balance on it?
 

Dapperdan16

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Jan 16, 2012
Messages
158
Location
New Jersey
Bit of smoothing up should be okay... I wonder if your local driveline shop could maybe check the balance on it?

Hey Lantraxco, what would you suggest for smoothing the plate out? I don't want to remove to much material trying to get it smoothed out, is checking the balance real important?
Thanks, Danny
 
Last edited:

Nige

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Jun 22, 2011
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G..G..G..Granville.........!! Fetch your cloth.
If you want to get technical with it take it to a machine shop and have them spin it in a lathe and take the high spots off. If you want to "bush mechanic" it then a scientifically-applied 7" grinder should do the trick.
Oh, and polish the f**k out of where it fits on to the flywheel so it goes back on easier than it came off .......!!
 
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