willie59
Administrator
Awesome! :drinkup
Yep. I friggin knew it! I had enough and got that lazy parts guys boss on the phone and what do ya know, they DO sell the aluminum arms. He was being lazy and was just going off of my serial number, and even though intold him i had the aluminum ones, he insisted i had the steel version. Turns out the serial number on this machine says it came with steel, but for som3 reason i got lucky and have the one piece version. I followed the rest of your tutorial and its like brand new. The guys will be pleased the next time they are in a back yard next to an 8' brick wall haha, that thing was impossible to control and a serious safety hazard! Thanks willie youre the man.
Now a little info about the older machines with aluminum pintle arms. Got in the cab of the 753 customer had dropped off and it was all over the place. I knew immediately that the clamping bolt for the right drive pintle arm had come loose. Well, here's the belly of the beast. Pretty much the same thing as on the T190, cage the centering spring with cable ties, remove centering spring, then lift neutral centering plate off. On this model, more difficult to get to the centering spring, had hoses and stuff in the way. Grrrrrr.
View attachment 67854
Centering plate removed, the pintle arm on the left is the one the clamping bolt that holds arm tight on pump shaft came loose allowing pintle arm to wallow all over and couldn't control pump shaft movement. These machines drive nutty when they come loose. Notice the difference in the spools on the aluminum arm models as opposed to the spools that wear on the T190 mentioned earlier. These spools actually look like a chromed steel.
View attachment 67855
Minimal wear on spools as well as centering bars.
View attachment 67856
View attachment 67857
Two new pintle arms. One from being worn by loose clamping bolt, other had excessive wear where rubber torsion bushing goes. Install new torsion bushings, installed old but still good spools on new arms, rotated them around to fresh steel, and rotated centering bars on centering plate.
View attachment 67858
I should offer an installation note whenever perfoming repairs to Bobcat drive linkages. Whenever you remove the bolt that attaches drive link to pintle arm via the rubber torsion bushing, when you go to re-install the torsion bushing bolt you must have the pintle arm near the neutral position. Once the bolt is tight, moving the machine drive lever fwd and rev actually twists the rubber of the torsion bushing. Point is, if you had the machine drive lever and pintle arm all the way forward and installed the torsion bushing bolt and locked it down, then when you pulled back the drive lever, it would simply try to go back foward like a spring was pulling it. That's from twisting the rubber of torsion bushing. Always have pintle arms in line with each other when installing torsion bushing bolts.
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Just want to thank Willie59 and all others who've contributed to this long and old thread. Just got done with the creeper repairs on a 773G. Unit had the aluminum pintle arms so they got new bushing, rotated the centering spools & flipped the centering bars. First one I've ever done and with all the input on this site it was a piece of cake. Todd at Bobcat of Madison (Wis.) was awesome and lined up all the correct parts and this thing drives like a dream! Just a question of curiosity - could a unit with creep cause damage to the lock pin in the park brake system due to loading against it all the time? This was a project for my wife's dad and he'd had to replace the lock pin assy in the park brake system and I was just wondering if the creeping problem may have contributed. Thanks again for the excellent info!
machine that are creeping really bad, or for a long time, have a tendency to bend the long bolt, and mangle the spring on the brake system. the constant "push" and slamming the machine back and forth to release the brake loosens the 4 guide bolts, the guides fall into the chaincase along with the plunger, springs, and wedge. let it go long enough, then one of the pieces gets jammed under a sprocket and if you're lucky only jams up that side. worst case is the debris gets jammed into the bottom of the chaincase, and lets all the oil out.