Ford backhoes

[hmover]

Does anybody have any opinons on ford Backhoes info seems a bit harder
to come by.No model in mind yet but the odd one comes up for sale.
Are they harder to work on than Case or John Deere. Case a Nw Holland dealer is te parts sourse???? Thanks for any info

[Phil]

Not sure what age of machine you are looking at but I had one once, it was a 4500, I believe these were made before the 555. It had sat for 10 years in a barn and had water in a cylinder. I think the machinist bored the dry sleeves. The 3 cylinder diesel was one massive engine, built like a " brick **** house in the fog" is the old saying. Crankshaft was huge, so were the pistons. The chain used by the swing cylinders was broke so I ordered a repair kit at a bearing supply house. I loved the way that motor ran and was hesitant to sell it.

I've never heard anything against a Ford and wouldn't hesitate to buy a 555. Someone who had a late model unit told me they were the best buy out there. Parts, I don't know about. Some smaller farm dealers have parts guys that can source almost anything. I'd definitely check the parts side of it out first. Hope I've helped a little...Phil:)

[JS580SL]

Ive seen some older ones with many of hours but the newer onces dont impress me. Dont seem as durable. They say the hoes have real good breakout force though.

[farm_boy]

For the money I don't know if you can get a better hoe. The D series were built darn good. The last of the E series were pretty good too (1999 & 2000). The first LB75 wasn't a bad digging little machine, but if you plan on using the front end a lot it is a little under powered with only 70 hp. It also had some durability issues as well.

From 2001 until 2006 the machines suffered from some poor reliability and durability. They are good performing machines, but at about 2000 hours they start nickel and diming you to death. They have finally gotten through these issues and I think the news ones today are much better. For a brand new machine today, you won't find a machine with better backhoe force or loader force. They are very strong machines. Their downfall is a somewhat weak support system and dealer network. That is not to say that there are some darn good NH dealers out there, but on average across North America the NH dealer network isn't as stong as Cat, Deere or maybe even Case.

Rumor has it that they have some big improvements coming this year that will be introduced at Con-Expo:wink2

[Phil]

I forgot to mention that a friend of mine who has long been in the business of buying and selling used machinery, told me last year to stay away from New Holland backhoes. He didn't get specific on any one area of the machine and I've not heard that from anyone else...but this guy has never steered me wrong. So I hope I've not offended any New Holland owners out there:o and keep in mind it's mainly older equipment he sells. Phil

[Prep]

I have had good luck with our 655e. It has almost 7,000 hrs. on it with no major issues (we follow the service manual and don't beat on the machine). The local New Holland dealer here is small, but they always take good care of me and seem to have what ever I need when I need it.

[ZAXIS]

My dad started out on his own with a 4500 Ford ,and then owned two early 80's model 555's. The 555's were great machines with a lot of power and compared to the Case machines of the time, were far superior. The 555's were used for sewer & water lines, basements, footings, etc. in the Eastern Arkansas Delta.

Best regards, ZAXIS

[Countryboy]

Welcome to Heavy Equipment Forums ZAXIS! :drinkup

[ror76a]

We run Ford/New holland backhoes, they have always done a great job for us. We still have an old 4500 around still. We have demoed Cases and Cats, but they never could compete with the Fords for hyd power. They have always been reliable for us too, I would love to know how many hours are actually on that old 4500:notworthy

[Phil]

Not sure how many hours were on that machine. It spent many years cleaning out sawdust from a sawmill and the hoe was off it during this time. I have a picture of the float move. Phil:)

[LeakyBoot]

I'm hoping there good machines as I put money on it last fall when I bought a 555D from a city park dept. Machine had around 3000 hrs and still had the factory teeth on the hoe bucket. I'm hoping I can get 2000 hrs from it trouble free of major problems like trans or engine. I figure at 2000 hrs that will take me to retirement age and I can park it. I don't plan on hitting it too hard, just maybe a little job or two a week. My M. O. on making machinery last is not to "give it all it's got" . I've had good luck with that and get the job done maybe 15 minutes later than a wide open , ram it to it type. LB

[Phil]

That 555 sounds like a real find leakyBoot. The city machines must have a real cushy life:p. I wanted to post pictures of a 550 that I was looking at last summer. They are not good shots, it was stored in a tent, but I wanted to see if anyone has a 550 out there and how they like the machine. Phil:)

[ZAXIS]

That 555 sounds like a real find leakyBoot. The city machines must have a real cushy life:p. I wanted to post pictures of a 550 that I was looking at last summer. They are not good shots, it was stored in a tent, but I wanted to see if anyone has a 550 out there and how they like the machine. Phil:)
PHIL, that sure brings back some memories. Our first 555 had an OROPS and my dad made one with removeble glass and installed a heater from an old Chevy Luv (remember those) truck. The second one had a factory cab. I still prefer the wobble stick configuration on a backhoe because thats the model/configuration I learned to dig on. I still love to hear the distinct sound that the Ford diesel made. Sincerely, ZAXIS

[ZAXIS]

Welcome to Heavy Equipment Forums ZAXIS! :drinkup
Thanks countryboy!! , ZAXIS

[Nightowlbird]

Hello,
I have an old Ford 4500 1971 backhoe. I purchased this from a junkyard which they had used it primarly to yank out motors and other odd ends. It needed some parts and when I went to the ford tractor dealer with the S/N # they had told me the unit was made in england ? There where some issues with parts such as pins, glow plugs and the aux hydraulic pump. I had bought some parts but man did they cost... If it was a built by chevy the parts would have been a little cheaper LOL.. The brakes are internal which they are in need of relacement. I am not to sure how much difference it is than a 4500 model? I am looking into retiring the old thing which I hate to do since the cost of rebuild and the age do to parts avaliability which will be getting harder to come by and of course time....

NBO

[jughead]

do not wish to high jack this thread but would someone compare a 655d to other brand ? size backhoes.

[LeakyBoot]

Photo of the former city owned Ford 555D I got from Chicago Parks Dept. Was told by park dept head man that those are the original factory teeth on the backhoe bucket. I'm hoping for a long and productive life. I think I got ahold of it just at the end of the life of the rod seals. I been having those start to leak. $5 to replace but quite a messy little job.

[Phil]

Beautiful machine leakyboot. I supposed they waxed it too, between coffee breaks? Phil;)

[Catpower]

Nightowlbird if your backhoe is from England it would have rounded fenders, does it? We had a Ford 3000 Super dexta (1970) rounded fenders the 4500,5600 were American built. The 4500 I talked dad into getting the 730 hard nose loader for it was $3200 for it at the time.

[LeakyBoot]

Beautiful machine leakyboot. I supposed they waxed it too, between coffee breaks? Phil;)



They didn't leave any wax I could see--but they did load alot of sand as the front area had alot in it I had to clean out. I think that's why the front rod shaft seals went bad. It was super fine sand. LB

[Nightowlbird]

Nightowlbird if your backhoe is from England it would have rounded fenders, does it? We had a Ford 3000 Super dexta (1970) rounded fenders the 4500,5600 were American built. The 4500 I talked dad into getting the 730 hard nose loader for it was $3200 for it at the time.

Hello Catpower,

Here are couple of photos of the unit. The dash looks like of a 4500 ford tractor.

Thanks
NOB

I had missed a couple of photos

[Catpower]

Thanks Nightowlbird

I haven't seen a 4500 for ahhhhh since late 80's about. Ours didn't have the torque shift on top. Almost forgot what they looked like.I loaded over 5000 yds with that loader.Over 3000 yds with the 3000 Super Dexta with the Allied 300 loader. We borrowed a 190 IH dump truck with 5&4 trans so taught me fairly well how to run it. It sure went throught the gas. If I may some years ago I saw a fuel tank that we/ I modified to make a cow lick for molasses in Chetwynd from Vancouver island about 1200 km's away.I could tell it right away from the crooked 4" coupling ( I was welding it and dad came and leaned on it and bent the top so he said it was good enough ) it stuck out like a sore thumb! Ah the days of the old farm.

[Phil]

Nightowlbird,
I remember my 4500 having 2 adjustable 'screws' by the hoe levers. It seemed like an interesting set-up but I can't remember what they did. Does your machine have these? Phil:)

[Nightowlbird]

Nightowlbird,
I remember my 4500 having 2 adjustable 'screws' by the hoe levers. It seemed like an interesting set-up but I can't remember what they did. Does your machine have these? Phil:)

Hello Phil,
Yes, there is actually a screw or adjustment on the left side of the backhoe control box. The cable is frozen or rusted to a point I would have to replace but it. It connects back to the throttle control. Here is a pic.

Thanks

[Phil]

Okay, that's not the same as the one I had. These adjustable screws were attached to small pilot valves I think, for dual lever control. Not sure. Phil

[Hammerdown502]

Love my 1986 Ford 555b 4x4 Backhoe. Only have had normal minor maintance repair's.. Mickey

[Countryboy]

Welcome to Heavy Equipment Forums Hammerdown502! :drinkup

[Phil]

Welcome Hammerdown502:drinkup. Good to hear you have a Ford too:). I just bought one yesterday, a 550, picture is back on page 1. These engines run sooo sweet. I'm still drooling over Leakyboot's 555D purchase, I suppose the paint is worn off the bucket now:p. Phil

[dbf577]

i have a ford 555d does great had it for 12 years now does anthing you want it to.

[Phil]

Don't tell me it's an ex-municipal machine like Leakyboot has? Paint still on the bucket teeth?.......drool......:)

[chessiegp39]

I have a 1990 555C with about 3600 hrs which I bought used from a dealer cheap. A little ruff around the edges because the previous owner beat on it a little but for me it works just fine. No major problems yet just some small stuff like leaks and some worn bushings. But just a great machine. Plenty of power and starts all the time!

[Countryboy]

Welcome to Heavy Equipment Forums chessiegp39! :drinkup

[Phil]

Welcome chessiegp39. Glad to hear you have a Ford and are happy with it. Phil:)

[roddyo]

I got a 555e that I really like. If you are buying a used machine they have about the lowest resale. :D Most Ford people are really loyal to these machines. The parts can be really high so it pays to check around on prices. The levers are really easy to pull. If you think that's funny run a New Holland awhile then get back on a cat. Stay away from the LB 75's they had some improvements but didn't raise the Horse Power.

[Countryboy]

Welcome to Heavy Equipment Forums roddyo! :drinkup

[VirginiaAgent]

I got a '99 NH 555E 4x4, ex. hoe, cab not too long ago. I'm very pleased with it. As was mentioned by another poster, it's one of the more affordable brands out there, and I got a good deal on it.

It does everything I need it to do. Plenty of power in the hydraulics. Fires up every time.

Still has the same routine maintenance issues that all of them do. The AC on mine is a little temperamental.

I use it for jobs around the property, not business, so I operate it slow, usually at the lowest RPM.

[jughead]

have 4500 sitting in my parking lot now with a broken swing chain. i would still like a comparison of size of other brands to a 655d. no bashing just curious

[knucklehead98]

That 555 sounds like a real find leakyBoot. The city machines must have a real cushy life:p. I wanted to post pictures of a 550 that I was looking at last summer. They are not good shots, it was stored in a tent, but I wanted to see if anyone has a 550 out there and how they like the machine. Phil:)

We had a 550 when I was a kid,actually dad still has it, but hasn't ran it in years. What I remember about it wasthat it was a real horse. Seemed like it never ran out of power. The only bad thing that I remeber about iy was that it was constantly blowing swing cylinder packing. The bad thing was that you had to seperate the machine from the hoe to get them out.Had that one down to a science,would have it apart and cleaned up by the time dad got back with new packing.Otherwise, I can't think of any bad habits that it had.

[Phil]

Jughead,
According to my local tractor parts source expert, the entire 4500 swing chain has to be purchased. However you can get a repair kit to fix your own at a bearing supply house. Take your chain in with you and tell them it's not on a forklift and there are no safety issues. I believe I used a grade 8 bolt for the master pin and it worked fine. Phil:)

[jughead]

thank you Phil. i will look into it.

[bear]

Here's apic of my late father-in-laws old ford. did a lot of work with the old girl. guy that had it before him ran it rough. :mad: :Banghead Rith now I'll have to sleeve the cylinders adn re-wire it and get the starter rebuilt if i want to amke the old girl purr again. :D Too much money right now but it won't be too bad all told. after that i gotta get some new hoses. Tell me if this is odd but this one also has another hookup for a ram or other attatchment. before this one i hadn't seen any of that on a ford this old. Maybe a retrofit?:beatsme In the background there is an old steam driven press. it's pretty strong I think it will go to the 100 ton range. not sure. :beatsme if old fella was still here I'd ask.

[Phil]

Jughead,
I dug up the repair kit part #, it's a Rex BL1244 PL :). Looks like I bought 2 of them at $11.75 each back in 2006, for the repair.

Bear,
I have the 550 service, parts and owners manual if you need any info on the engine. Very nice looking machine, don't let her go, the one I had was one of the sweetest running machines I have ever had. Don't know about the extra connections you have. Ford pistons can be rather expensive, I see I paid $135 for each piston(shop around) and $75 to have the existing pressed-in sleeves bored out to .040".Ring set was $120, cam bearings $34, gasket sets $100, and clutch disc $195.Phil:)

[bear]

Thanks Phil! i may have you send me some tourque info when i get that far along. As far as parts go we have a good machine shop here that specialises in engines and such. i can get everything made there except for the rings and the guy will charge me around 300 for the whole job. :D I love this little hoe and would love to have her running again. Mostly time and money, they are never in the same place *** . something pretty neat about the machine shop is they have somekind of rig to take into the field that does cylinder boring on the machine. evidently they pull the pan close off all the oil galleries and go. makes things much simpler and at a good price. These guys have made enough money boring like that they don't charge much to do it all the big construction companies here use them when need be too. Sorry if i made this sound like a commercial, it just struck me as a really neat thing. Anybody ave anything like this in their area. Thanks again! Maybe sometime this week i'll get a pick of the extra coupler(s) too.

[Phil]

Man, you folks down in the U.S. have access to all kinds good stuff;). Phil

[bear]

Nightowlbird,
I remember my 4500 having 2 adjustable 'screws' by the hoe levers. It seemed like an interesting set-up but I can't remember what they did. Does your machine have these? Phil:)

These what you mean?

[Phil]

Yes that is what my 4500 had;)! We had quite a time freeing them up; when I took a cover off, then I realized it had something to do with dual lever function. The 550 manual I have describes how they work. I can have the page scanned if you would like to read about them. Sometimes these ideas are failures and sometimes they are forgotten and picked up years latter by another manufacturer. Phil:)

[bear]

Yes i would appreciate that phil, does it have any diagrams of the rear controls, I need to take them off and clean eveything up inside can't raise the boom and whatnot without it doing something else i DIDN'T tel it to:eek: :Banghead. these old hoes despite the disreputive look on some (like mine ;) ) are some hard working pieces of equipment. I outloaded a guy on a newer case with an old ford like these. The front bucket on this one needs a new top piece welded on and it is my next major project. Some additional good news. May hav a local quarry job lined up, never worked a quarry, what should i expect different?

[Chuck]

Nightowlbird,

Thats an interesting old ford backhoe you've got there because the tractor does appear to be a 4500 with that nose that has the hydraulic filter and the additional oil reservoir, but that loader looks like the one used on a 4400 (model 735 I believe). All the 4500's I've seen had the 740 loader on them. I can also tell that yours has the 753 (13 foot) backhoe on it, most had the 755 (15 foot) but you could get your choice of 10, 13, or 15 feet.

4500's have a different hydraulic set up in the front of the tractor, and the front axle is different than a 4400. I've had both a 4500 and a 4400.

[bear]

Yes that is what my 4500 had;)! We had quite a time freeing them up; when I took a cover off, then I realized it had something to do with dual lever function. The 550 manual I have describes how they work. I can have the page scanned if you would like to read about them. Sometimes these ideas are failures and sometimes they are forgotten and picked up years latter by another manufacturer. Phil:)

I've been squirting wd40 and pb blaster on the things and they are starting to get some "give" in them. It's taken about 2 weeks of spraying 2-3 times a day. Another update the starter is off and getting re-built, and i have my head off and the cylinders ready for sleeves. Pistons, rods, rings, and head gasket on order and bearings and stuff being made. Hopefully the old girl will be back together by mid summer at latest. :D

[Rodney]

I need help on what to buy a 655 d 2wd or a 555d 4wd around 18000 either. Can anyone help me on whether the 4wd is a got to have. Buying it to clear paths in woods , dig ditches and moove dirt around. Im a newbie so I need some help. My email address is
rogersfam@bellsouth.net

[Chuck]

With a machine that heavy on a farm, I would say that 4x4 is a must. Especially if your willing to fork over $18k for a farm machine. I'd get the 4x4 even if I had to get an older machine to stay in the budget.

[Rodney]

GUYS i NEED YOUR HELP. nEWBIE GETTING READY TO BUY .Got a 100 acres mostly woods planted pines. Wanted to cut paths , move some dirt around. Some areas get wet and the paths hold water when heavy rain. Looking at a 655D from a city dept. with 4400 hrs and cab, 2wd . Should I go with 2 wd or is 2wd a thing of the past?

[Rodney]

I know its hard to say but is 17-18 in the ball park for a decent macine with around 4000 hrs?

[Chuck]

I wouldn't spend that much on a Ford 2wd. Don't get me wrong, I like Ford machines but they don't bring what a Case or a Deere will. I'm not sure what the market is like down where you are, but I could get a Decent 580K 4x4 for that or a 310C Deere 4x4.

[RenoF250]

There is a pretty clean looking 1990 4WD 555 in the area going for $12k. I hav enot gone and seen it in person though.

That is a bit big for my property, I am looking at a JCB Mini. I think it would be about perfect but it is only 2WD and still costs ~13k. It really bugs me to pay more for a smaller machine.

[Case 580e]

my dad had a ford backhoe when he was a kid and he used it to work for my grandfather he use to snap the boom alot when lifting heavy things but the backhoe was very strong every tim,e we work together he wishes he still gad that backhoe. Great machine but our case 580e is anice machine too

[Case 580e]

GUYS i NEED YOUR HELP. nEWBIE GETTING READY TO BUY .Got a 100 acres mostly woods planted pines. Wanted to cut paths , move some dirt around. Some areas get wet and the paths hold water when heavy rain. Looking at a 655D from a city dept. with 4400 hrs and cab, 2wd . Should I go with 2 wd or is 2wd a thing of the past?

4wd if you will be working in muddy areas like on these trails

[bear]

I'd say 2wd will work fine unless it's totally muddy all the time.

[DCH]

I'm looking at buying a used machine here in Canada. We used to have a 93 JCB 214 Sitemaster and it was great. I've found a decent deal on a 98 NH 575E with 3500hrs. 4x4 ext/hoe but just a GP bucket up front. I haven't been able to find much info on this machine. What does it weigh? How much HP does it have? I've also found a 97 cat 426IT with close to 8000 hrs for a similar price but I'm leaning towards the NH since it reminds me of our JCB and is MUCH cleaner. Any advice?

[volvobl]

i actually learnt on a ford 550 backhoe very underated for its day the only downfall is that they were a bit underpowered cause they only had a 3 cylinder engine and small pumps. Respect to leakyboot for picturing the 655d theres nothing wrong with looking after and/or cleaning machines if they are yours or company owned i keep my cab clean evry day and do my best with keeping them clean on the outside pride goes a long way on tidy equipment. my personnal view i preferred 655d compare to the newer NH series

[volvobl]

I'm looking at buying a used machine here in Canada. We used to have a 93 JCB 214 Sitemaster and it was great. I've found a decent deal on a 98 NH 575E with 3500hrs. 4x4 ext/hoe but just a GP bucket up front. I haven't been able to find much info on this machine. What does it weigh? How much HP does it have? I've also found a 97 cat 426IT with close to 8000 hrs for a similar price but I'm leaning towards the NH since it reminds me of our JCB and is MUCH cleaner. Any advice?

the newholland is lighter but jcb is stronger

[D5G]

I too am very fond of the old Fords, here are a few pics of a 675D. I have more if interested.

[D5G]

heres a few more, just because they are awesome!:drinkup

[jughead]

looks a lot like my 655D. cut my teeth on a 4500 which my neighbor still has. learned more on a 555D. i still feel like a lever puller but i get the stuff done on my 20 acres. a lot of it is on the side of a hill with up to 15 degree slope which this old man does not LIKE at all. needless to say i like the fords.

[Willis Bushogin]

i actually learnt on a ford 550 backhoe very underated for its day the only downfall is that they were a bit underpowered cause they only had a 3 cylinder engine and small pumps. Respect to leakyboot for picturing the 655d theres nothing wrong with looking after and/or cleaning machines if they are yours or company owned i keep my cab clean evry day and do my best with keeping them clean on the outside pride goes a long way on tidy equipment. my personnal view i preferred 655d compare to the newer NH series

Not sure if this is the right place, but I need a engine, or a good block assembly for a 1997? Ford 655D backhoe. I just bought it and the block is bad
Thanks for any reply

[DCH]

the newholland is lighter but jcb is stronger

Thanks, I ended up buying the 426C-IT. Turns out I got the best deal but didn't realize it until I got posession. The hoe had barely been used. The machine has been used for clearing snow and moving material with the forks for 7500 hrs.

[fred@pemberton]

Fords are the same as New Hollands.

New Holland bought out the line and just changed the name. They left the machines almost unchanged for several years after the aquisition.

[mei8555]

my dad was in the sewer business for over 30 years. had quite a few 4500s and a couple of 550s. last 550 was sold in early 2000s mid 70s model had been arounds since new. those machines were work horses

[volvobl]

Thanks, I ended up buying the 426C-IT. Turns out I got the best deal but didn't realize it until I got posession. The hoe had barely been used. The machine has been used for clearing snow and moving material with the forks for 7500 hrs.

any used backhoe is like gold if the back hoe end itself has not been used much well done hope you like it we operators tend to stick with what we are comfortable with ive been the same i was bought up around jcb mf and fords mainly naw i own a volvo bl71 and realy impressed with what it does its a touch slower on the backend than the jcb but its very strong ive got in to it and il stick with it. Hope you get in to the cat the same as me with the volvo good luck and well done on your purchase:notworthy:D

[carogator]

i have a 6500 that i have spent a lot of time repairing because someone dogged it. a great machine, doesn't seem to know it's limits. 4 cyl diesel with shuttle trans. must move to high idle until you hear it kick in, then works great. i would recommend Ford as the best i have ever used

[mattm257]

My 95 Cat 426b under side is all stamped FORD (rearend and I think even some of the drivetrain) I wonder if you put up a post - opinions on CAT mechanicals ? if the response would be different just becuase the label on the hood. DO some research not all is what it seems.

[455cinal]

I have a 455C 4x4, it is a little underpowered but works good for me.

[William J]

I used a 555 while I was in Highschool, and have never used another one before. It depends on what your using it for I guess. If I owned a business I would buy a CAT or a CASE, but if I was using it in the back 40 I would go with a Ford, but it would have to have 4wd.

[JS580SL]

I'd like to see some run a 4 stick Ford that knows what they are doing. Ive tried a 555 and a 580SL that was mickey moused setup as ford, very strange setup.

[jughead]

i would say the problem with 4 stick would be more of what one cut their teeth on. i have 2 friends that can comb ones hair with a 4 stick. this old man isnt a good lever puller but i can do a lot better with the ford 4. own a for 2 lever for the farm and still have a problem making it mind me.

[JS580SL]

I learned on 2 stick, I currently run a 4stick case w/foot swing day in day out. I swear by the 4stick and wouldnt go back to 2.

The ford 4 stick to me just seems strange. .....Maybe just cause its unfamilar to me.

[erniemack]

I am new at using this web site so please forgive me for stepping on anyone. My friend has a ford 4500 diesel back hoe that has been seting up for some time. The head has been removed and we can see the pistons however we can not get them freed up. We are trying to rebuild this unit and need some help. Can we drop the oil pan and get to the crank shaft and possibably free up the pistons?

[what the]

Hello erniemack,

I am also new to the forum let me ask you some basic questions and no offense it's the little things that bite you.

Are the cylinders rusted?
Are the cylinders scorn?
Have you removed the fan belt(s)?
Have you disconnected the front PTO pump?
Is the transmission in neutral?

Yes you can remove the pan but you may not be able to get to all of the rod bolts with out turning the engine. If the cylinders are rusted then clean them best you can and blow them out with air and pour about an inch of light oil like 5/20 and let it sit overnight and see if the oil goes down. If so this will help to free the rings I have seen a alt stop a series 60 Detroit engine more than once so remove the fan belt(s). I haven't seen it but a PTO or oil pump could stop the engine from turning.I have seen a trans in gear or locked up cause the engine not to turn.

Hope this helps.

[Phil]

Welcome Ernie,
What the, has some good points. I bought a VW diesel engine that was stuck, turned out it was just a seized alternator. There are several restoration forums to search, including ACMOC, that have favorite formulas for freeing stuck pistons, I remember Marvel Mystery oil and Coke used but I'm not sure of that.

A 'spun' rod bearing will nicely seize an engine too. It won't hurt to remove the oil pan and check the bearings, as you try to determine why the cylinder head was removed in the first place.

You can't beat the leverage attained by a big long pry bar on the flywheel teeth, after removing the starter. Phil

[bill onthehill]

Since you have the head off try tapping the top of each piston with a piece of wood. This will help break loose stuck rings. Dump in some kerosene and see if it goes down overnight.

[davetile]

my buddy has a 98 555 new holland. It works everyday with minimal problems. He had contaminates in the fuel and a leaking dipper cylinder. Other than that he loves the machine. It's very strong compared to the newer cases and cats .He's looking to by a newer machine. The only thing stopping him from possibly buying another ford is the parts dealer is too far away compared to the j.d, case, cat dealers.

[rextafier]

I am looking to find somwhere to get parts for a ford 755a if anybody knows where there are some not running let me know.

Thanks

[cpelz]

I have a Ford 555B with mechanical shuttle shift. It has been working fine except that I sometimes have to turn the key off to get the transmission to engage in forward or reverse. A mechanic told me that this model had no electrical parts that could effect the transmission, but there is something electrical going on. Today, I was having problems getting the transmission to stay engaged and for a while turning the light switch on and off would engage and disengage the transmission. The wiring is all messed up and no lights are currently installed, but something was going on. There must be some sort of electrical shutoff or control of the transmission. Can anyone tell me what to look for. I have a shop manual that talks about a return to dig solenoid. Is it possible that this is effecting the transmission? Is their any other pressure or temperature sensors that might send an electrical signal to cut out the transmission?

Thanks for any help. I'm a new user and could not post to a new thread.

[594sideboom]

Hi to everyone, just registered today so bare me and I don't mean to offend if I have butted in but not sure yet how to post ! Can anyone tell if there's anywhere I can find parts for my 550 (sideshift) mainly seat, rubber floor mat and cab trim ? I am in England but our ford dealer wants horiffic prices. I notice on eBay there's some guys selling old stock for older machines. Any ideas guys ?

[jwchance]

hi new here. need info on hyd system ford 5500. bucket or boom won't move makes noise. boom was working until replaced hyd hose.

thanks jw

[594sideboom]

Hi, if you just replaced pipe is there still plenty oil in the system or maybe just needs bleeding. Sounds strange if it was working before:beatsme

[jwchance]

tank has plenty oil. if the hoe would move it should bleed itself. it could be a relief valve stuck open. do anyone have any thoughts.

thanks jw

[carogator]

loosen the hose at both ends, work control lever gently to try to eliminate air.
also may want to pull hose and check that it didn't get plugged when it was made.

[jwchance]

Thanks i will take the hose off and make sure its not pluged.

jw

[Duke]

I have a Ford 555B with mechanical shuttle shift. It has been working fine except that I sometimes have to turn the key off to get the transmission to engage in forward or reverse. A mechanic told me that this model had no electrical parts that could effect the transmission, but there is something electrical going on. Today, I was having problems getting the transmission to stay engaged and for a while turning the light switch on and off would engage and disengage the transmission. The wiring is all messed up and no lights are currently installed, but something was going on. There must be some sort of electrical shutoff or control of the transmission. Can anyone tell me what to look for. I have a shop manual that talks about a return to dig solenoid. Is it possible that this is effecting the transmission? Is their any other pressure or temperature sensors that might send an electrical signal to cut out the transmission?

Thanks for any help. I'm a new user and could not post to a new thread.

Could there be a safety seat switch that wont allow the tractor to go in/out of gear that is horting with other wires?

[jwchance]

Hi have you looked at aparts diagram it may have a selonid valve some place.

jw

[BigDMD]

Hello,

I have bought a 655c. Everything seems to work. About 4500 hours. The last diesel I had was a Land Rover with 2.25 l diesel. Back to CAV (lucas).

[jkflatt]

just bought a 98 NH 555e. Seems like a good machine. Got an issue with the stabilizer arm lever not working properly. Very difficult to move and only moved the arm slowly. Not sure if it the cable connected to the lever or something else.

anyone had similar problems got any advice. ?

Thanks,
Jeff

[JRidge]

Great forum with lots of info.

I run a 4400 with a shuttle shift and I am getting hydraulic oil leaking into the engine. Can anyone tell me how this is possible? I have taken the cover at the bottom of bell housing off and can't see how hyd oil can make it's way to the engine.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thankyou.

[pinesd3400]

Any input out there for the 650 750 755,s ?
thats what i'm into..

[Phil]

JRidge,
Check this thread out , it may be a similar machine/problem. Phil
http://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/Forum/showthread.php?t=14099&highlight=ford+6500

[JoeTools]

Ive got a Ford 655A and i'm wondering are there any parts website online? I seem to have broke a pin on the boom, and when i went to CAT they found one but the cost is 600$ I want to see if i can atleast find a better deal before i spend that kind of money for a PIN.

Thanks

[carogator]

try a local machine shop. small independent. say you want to keep the money local and it helps. a pin for my tractor was 386.00 and he made one for me and a bushing for 90.00 . check it out

[carogator]

you say you are getting trans fluid in the engine. how so? in the crankcase, the water, or where? are you overfilling in the motor or radiator? i looked at your 4400 in the parts book and your pump is mounted different than mine, but if it is the gear pump. then you could leak hydraulic fluid by the shaft seal into the transmission. not familiar with the other type pump. Phil or Atcoeequip have great minds and will guide you in the right direction even if they aren't familiar with your eqiupment.

[jwchance]

no oil getting to hyd. pump. is there a strainer in the left side oil tank? if so how do get to it? tank is full so i think something is pluged.

thanks jw

[carogator]

no oil getting to hyd. pump. is there a strainer in the left side oil tank? if so how do get to it? tank is full so i think something is pluged.

thanks jw

yes there are two strainers. one is the power steering line inlet.
the other is in same line (i think) at the tank or it may be the return line, right at the tank. go to the CNH parts site-look up 5500 construction-
hydraulics-front
right tank has a strainer assy also

[pinesd3400]

Other than annoying chicken stuff like a blown tire or a stick breaking glass,
I cant think of anything else. I have ran others and I say no thanks. You
just cant beat this thing for a loader, got beautiful reach awesome
breakout turns real tight the only thing I would have designed is to route
the steering into the hydraulic system. Fords are notorious for poor
steering at idle due to a rather small power steering pump.

[jwchance]

thanks for the info. I found the strainers. strainer goinig to pump pluged. I still have problem with oil won't flow right tank to left tank. took cross over line off not plugged. must be gunk in tank plugging up cross over outlet. I will try to clean tanks next.

thanks again jw

[smokey1]

the 555/655 backhoes have a transmission dump valve, on the shuttle machines. it is located, right next to the trans, hydraulic filter. it has two switchs to drop it out one on top of the loader stick and the other on the floor, by the right brake pedal. . It is used to stop the transmission drive when you are using the loader. These machines can develope short circuits in the return to dig circuits, and cable disconects at the fire wall. This wiring can cause havock with your transmission. Go right down under and diconect it if your transmission stops pushing. Also if this turns out to be the problem, you should not leave it permanatly disconnected. It should be opperated occationally to keep it lubrercated. It,s called trans. dump valve. It is fused thru the horn and return to dig cicuits

[bodyman36]

well i have an old 4500 ford backhow that i use for personal jobs and it seems to do very well its an old tough machine that dosnt give much problem a lil tinkering everynow and then

[bodyman36]

i ahve this nice old 4500 ford backhoe with the diesl motor, it starts and runs great , but i noticed the bowl that sits ontop of the injector pump was spraying outward the other day , so i took the two nuts off , disconnected the spring, replaced the gasket and put the spring back on , made sure the pin was inserted in the kill lever, it starts and runs great as always but the gasket on the bown is still spraying , (different place) is there supposed to be that much pressure inside that bowl?
did i just mess up the gasket? seems like alot of pressure there?

[vpd66]

Hello, I just found this site and this is my first post. Ok, here is the deal. I took in trade a Ford 4500 TLB that the engine is seized. The previous owner told me that he was moving it and when he shut it down the motor kind of just came to a stop instead of winding down like normal, so he tried to restart it and the starter just clicked. So far I removed the starter and benched tested it, its good. I put a pry bar on the flywheel (through the starter hole) with the spark plugs out and it is tight. Not even any slack either way. I disconnected the front mount hydraulic pump, and the pump spins easy motor still locked. I removed the gear driven hydraulic steering pump from the engine and thats not it. The tractor has a 4speed trans with shuttle shift and it goes in neutral and pushes easily, so I know it isn't the trans seizing the engine. The tractor is full of antifreeze and the engine oil looks real good and doesn't smell burnt. My thought is that maybe a keyway sheared on a timing gear and locked the engine. Does this sound possible? Today I removed the backhoe and I'm going to remove the frontend loader so I can pull the front axle and get to the front of the engine. Anyone have any other ideas what could be locking this engine??

[vpd66]

I forgot to mention that this 4500 TLB is a 3 cylinder gas engine.
Thanks

[Phil]

vpd66,
It doesn't sound good for your engine, a spun rod bearing will lock an engine so that it won't turn even with a good pry on the flywheel. The previous owner may have failed to tell you about the knock. I suppose it's possible the pistons were dragging and scuffing, from overheating, or coolant in the oil. Either way you are going to have to take it apart. You can check for a turned rod bearing by taking the oil pan off and loosening each cap off, until the motor turns. I'm not sure if the oil pan on that engine will come off easily or not. Phil

[Phil]

Bodyman,
Pressure in that part of the pump should be very low, and controlled, I believe, by the unseating pressure on the check(relief) valve located on the return line fitting, that screws into the pump cover(bowl). Check to see if you have such a fitting, and that the ball or orifice is not plugged. It may require slightly more than just blowing into it with your mouth, to unseat the ball.

The return line to tank should not be restricted either so check that too. This engine may have a manifold heater plumbed into the fuel system too. I will check back on this thread to see what you found. Phil:)

[vpd66]

Phil,
I'd be very suprised if it spun a rod bearing. I know the guy pretty good that I got it from and I know if it was knocking he would have said something. When it died he wasn't planning on getting rid of it. It was about 3 months after it happened that I swung the trade and he was alittle gun shy to let it go. So I don't think he was hiding anything. The front axle of the tractor has to come off to drop the oil pan, or I would have already dropped it. I was reading the service manual last night and one thing I haven't checked is the governor and distributor is gear driven off the timing gears. I'll give it a shot today.

[Phil]

Gear drives are generally trouble free. I hope you find something simple.

Try cutting the oil filter open. Take the paper out and wash it with varsol or a similar degreaser in a pan. Drain off the liquid and see if there are any metal grindings in the bottom. Phil

[kevsugy]

I have a 1987 445a Ford backhoe. I bought it from a local muni auction about 7 years ago. It has around 2500 hrs on it. I paid 7000 for it. 2wd. The hoe is a bit large for the machine, i was told it is a hoe for a 555. I've had great luck with it up until recently, where i think the hyd pump is going. Overall, its a great machine. good strength, good reach, and its not too big. hope this helps.
-kev

[kevsugy]

sorry, i dont know how i posted this in the wrong section

[smokey1]

Phil, thanks, Tha reason I went there was because I have run into it several times. For tha past several years after retirement, I have bought and sold,many , many backhoes and farm tractors. a lot were tradins at dealers. The backhoe circuit was the cause of the problem, mostly the 3 cylinder ones like the MF20. Most of the time, there just wasn't enought to start. But any way the owners would turn in the machines,after pulling off the backhoe or 3 point hitch, or just forget to connect the buy pass hoses. I should have made note of it in the post.
Well i have restored a Ford 550 and would like to see some pictures, . The one I bought also came from a dealer trade in. It got a shampoo. new seat and interior,paint and tires, and new fluids and filters. It looked so nice I used it for a year , before I sold it. Only negative was loading on trailer, It would not go on foward, the hoe was just to heavy for it, So I eather had to back it on with the backhoe up in the dump truck, I then picked up a case 480 E, a small sweetheart. That machine had a quick drop off backhoe , and hydraukic 3 point, and also had a loaded start problem, The supply hose coupler for the backhoe pulled apart one day loading on trailer ^ hours later, I found it. It did show up a weak battery also. It's been real fun. Smokey

[jimg984]

sorry, i dont know how i posted this in the wrong section

me too

[jimg984]

I have a 1987 445a Ford backhoe. I bought it from a local muni auction about 7 years ago. It has around 2500 hrs on it. I paid 7000 for it. 2wd. The hoe is a bit large for the machine, i was told it is a hoe for a 555. I've had great luck with it up until recently, where i think the hyd pump is going. Overall, its a great machine. good strength, good reach, and its not too big. hope this helps.
-kev

would that be a 555A?

[Slate Mike]

would that be a 555A?

Hi. new Guy just trying to get 3 posts in. Sorry for the interruption.:)

[Mackcat]

Hello, I just found this site and this is my first post. Ok, here is the deal. I took in trade a Ford 4500 TLB that the engine is seized. The previous owner told me that he was moving it and when he shut it down the motor kind of just came to a stop instead of winding down like normal, so he tried to restart it and the starter just clicked. So far I removed the starter and benched tested it, its good. I put a pry bar on the flywheel (through the starter hole) with the spark plugs out and it is tight. Not even any slack either way. I disconnected the front mount hydraulic pump, and the pump spins easy motor still locked. I removed the gear driven hydraulic steering pump from the engine and thats not it. The tractor has a 4speed trans with shuttle shift and it goes in neutral and pushes easily, so I know it isn't the trans seizing the engine. The tractor is full of antifreeze and the engine oil looks real good and doesn't smell burnt. My thought is that maybe a keyway sheared on a timing gear and locked the engine. Does this sound possible? Today I removed the backhoe and I'm going to remove the frontend loader so I can pull the front axle and get to the front of the engine. Anyone have any other ideas what could be locking this engine??
check your alternator we had one lock up and it completly locked the engine up we cut the belt off and it started right up

[vpd66]

I never heard of that one. I figured if the generator seized the engine would be able to slip the belt and still turn over. I have to go out in an hour or so to fire up for the night I'll check it out.
Thanks, Vince

[vpd66]

Well, I went out and grabbed the pulley on the generator and was able to easily slip the belt and turn the generator. So thats not it. I have the backhoe and the frontend loader off and will be bringing it into the shop in about 2 weeks. First I'll remove the tin and split the front axle off the engine. Then I should be able to get at anything on the motor.
Vince

[Glock]

Me too 3rd post, yea.

[Diggedirt]

Hello,
I have a relative who ran the engine in his 555 without oil and is wondering what to do next. He was looking to sell it before he did this and he is not in a position to lay out a pile of cash anytime soon. (I know, he shouldn't have done it but it’s too late for that!) He ran it at idle for “10-15 minutes” until it started making enough noise to grab his attention and shut it down. It will crank over. But he has not started it since. That being said I would like to know roughly what would need to be done. Best and worst case…I wish I could give more details but that is all I have right now. What should I check to determine the damage done without disassembly? I have seen ads for rebuilt engines approx $4000.U.S. and kits for rebuilding approx $670. U.S. when I did a quick internet search today. The engine was new when he bought it about 1600 hours ago. 5500hrs on machine. The rest of the unit is in good shape and was earning its keep shortly before this happened. I am interested if the total price is right to get it running again. I certainly don’t need any lawn ornaments…..not that there’s anything wrong with them. I prefer iron that I can earn a living with.:)
Thanks in advance.

[Phil]

Digg,
Might be a buying opportunity. I think you can count on the crankshaft having to be reground. There is always the chance that it has heat cracks, or can't be reground anymore. Best to get a price on a used crankshaft and always figure the worst. Might need another used connecting rod, the one that's hammering, or at least figure the cost to have all 4 checked for a true bore. Pistons may not be scored, hard to say, everything else may be alright and just need a check. Others should add to this because I have not torn down many engines with this particular problem. Phil:)

[Drywall]

Guys I need your help. I have purchased a 555C backhoe and the left door is missing. I have looked and call everyone I can think of to find one. The dealer wants $5000.00 just for the frame. (Ya think!) Does anyone know where I might find one (even without glass.

[jimg984]

built a frame and used plexiglass works good need to oversize and holes in plexiglass where using bolts or screws

[CHADBORDNER]

i am looking to find somwhere to get parts for a ford 755a if anybody knows where there are some not running let me know.

Thanks

i have a 1984 ford 755a parts backhoe minus the engine and a few other parts for sale. If you are still interested, call me and we can talk. Thanks. Chad. (309)224-6707.

[BigfootBushy]

G'day all, I have recently acquired a Ford 550 backhoe. If possible I am chasing some help in finding out the year of it, and any info on the machine. The manuals that I bought online from the US seam to have a different numbering system.

Tractor ID Plate
Serial No. Series No. Model No. FPO No. Engine No.
4MD1 B384854 DF211F 420724 D512494

Frame ID Plate
Serial No. Series No. Model No. FPO No.
PMD1 L200174 LO550A 320174

Backhoe ID Plate
Serial No. Series No. Model No.
RMD1 L215018 BH755L

Its an ex city council b/hoe and seems to be in reasonable condition.

Thanks for any assistance.

[JKS]

1988 Ford 655a

Possibly looking at the purchase of a 655a. The machine is a 4x4 with a 4 in 1 front bucket and an extend-a-hoe on the rear. Hours are around 4200 and it appears to be in good overall condition. I would be using the machine for general farm use and maybe a small job or two on the weekends, nothing too big.

I have searched and I can not find much info (including specs) out there on the Ford 655a. Does anyone have any input (good or bad) on them? What things should I look out for?

Any info appreciated

Justin

[smokey1]

I purchaced a 1988 ford 655A, about 11/2 years ago with 5000 hrs. it was in rough shape and I could see that. No service manuals, tires were all bad, to much oil in crankcase no brakes would not go up a hill unless it was in low gear, it looked real bad the paint and cab was gross.the extender hoe was disconnected. Well the reason it wouldn't move is the hydraulic filter on the transmission was crushed and the trans oil was down 6 quarts. The extra oil in the crankcase was due to the oil seals in the power steering pump, easy fix.I spent about 30 hrs on it just fixing up a lot of loose and worn parts. Put on a new set of tires, big bucks fronts 400 rears 1200. new floor matt, cut out of truck bed matt. 60.00 few hoses, At $40.00 each. new upolstery, about $50.00 in materials. 2 pieces glass. $100.00. Most of the cyliners were weeping, but after sveral hours of use they all stopped. I have to asssume the machine had set for several months, and the packing were dry. Put the machine to work and it ran super. you could not get it stuck in the mud, and it was a real work horse. Now I waited for the snow to fly, and the first storm dumped 12 " in our lap. So I took it out to plow the 500' drive and after the first pass I smelled burning rubber. opended the door and the engine compartment was on fire. quickly got the fire out, but the nothing worked.. So the machine got parked we headed down South for the rest of the winter. last spring I had to pull it all apart the whole main cable harness had burnt up, under the fuel tank. Well anyway my machine had the full cab option, and ford rather than remove the old wiring fot the non cab machine, they left it hanging down under the fuel tank. The return to dig circuit wireing was in that cable area and the fuse for that was not wired right. After making all these repairs I find out they had many ,many fires. in this area . in fact there was a factory change to change over the large bukhead connector plug wireing on these machines. All in all it is a great machine, the parts are very expensive but easy to find, service manuals are still plentyfull on Ebay $99.00. In the end I decided the 655A was just too much machine for my needs and i went back to a large skid steer, and sold the machine about 6 months ago. 1988 655A are still bringing in about 14 to 16 k for clean machines, with 4x4 and ex hoes good luck, if you have any tech questions I might be able to help you out down the road.

[Phil]

A good read Smokey. I was curious about your floor mat made out of truck box material. I have to make a new mat for my 580sk, so I'm wondering where you bought it and how wide it comes. I take it it's like conveyor belting?

Ford backhoes are not too common around here and no one gets too excited about buying one. Phil:)

[smokey1]

Yes Phil, I picked up the Matt at PEP boys, it was for a long bed ford .It was plenty wide, Between the pieces of the two old matts removed , a picture of the matt cuts from a parts book and a templete of cardboard, cut with utility knife, and roofing shears. It fit like a glove. I have also used conveyer belt in the past. The conveyer belt is the best to use if you can find the wide stuff. Ford wanted almost $600.00 plus shipping, for the orriginal . A few years back I had a case 480, and the price of that one was over $500.00. I ended up putting a all wheather carpet in that one, but was hard to keep clean.. A backhoe with a nice clean cab, seems to run a lot better than one with pieces of matt floating around on the cab floor. Smokey

[Phil]

Thanks, I'll check the local Parts Source store, we don't have Pep Boys here. I can't imagine what Case wants for a 580SK floor mat, although I could look it up on Coleman Equipment, but I don't think there's any use. Phil:)

[No1Hookman]

Fords are the same as New Hollands.

New Holland bought out the line and just changed the name. They left the machines almost unchanged for several years after the aquisition.

Actually, Ford bought New Holland in the early eighties. Ford then sold their tractor division along with New Holland to Fiat which used the New Holland monicker on the former Ford equipment. For awhile the rigs had both names on them. B series along with the 655A were the last Backhoes to be built at the Romeo tractor plant. All subsequent production was moved offshore.

BTW, I have one of the last 655As to be built and shows less than 600 hours on the clock. Bought it new.

[daman]

I'm new here(great site by the way) and this is my first post but i have to say I love FORDs, in my younger days i ran the hell outa them,4500's,555's TLB,never any issues always started and ready to work we had a septic business back then for over 10 years then farmed them after that and they got beat worked hard and keep going.

there one of the most heavily build units with Strong hydraulics,we sold a case 580 because it just looked weak sitting next to the ford and had weaker hyds,the boss didn't like it and sold it.

over the years I've ran others hoes but always had the old days and our fords in mind and would rather run a ford any day,so much so i bought and old '75 4500 in great shape to have around the house for projects,she's a good ol girl strong hydraulics no leaks everything works like it should even the electronics only thing i needed to do was have the injector pump rebuilt and i replaced all the fluids and filters,she's old but digs like hell.



all original paint and sheet metal also, she's retired living a pampered lifestyle now :tong

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v94/daman1/Picture-5.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v94/daman1/Picture006-2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v94/daman1/Picture009-1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v94/daman1/Picture008-2.jpg

[Mikefromcny]

I'm new here(great site by the way) and this is my first post but i have to say I love FORDs, in my younger days i ran the hell outa them,4500's,555's TLB,never any issues always started and ready to work we had a septic business back then for over 10 years then farmed them after that and they got beat worked hard and keep going.

there one of the most heavily build units with Strong hydraulics,we sold a case 580 because it just looked weak sitting next to the ford and had weaker hyds,the boss didn't like it and sold it.

over the years I've ran others hoes but always had the old days and our fords in mind and would rather run a ford any day,so much so i bought and old '75 4500 in great shape to have around the house for projects,she's a good ol girl strong hydraulics no leaks everything works like it should even the electronics only thing i needed to do was have the injector pump rebuilt and i replaced all the fluids and filters,she's old but digs like hell.



all original paint and sheet metal also, she's retired living a pampered lifestyle now :tong

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v94/daman1/Picture-5.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v94/daman1/Picture006-2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v94/daman1/Picture009-1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v94/daman1/Picture008-2.jpg

I hear ya, I bought a 81' 555 back in november. Love it! A buddy of mine has worked for the local power/gas company for 20 years, swears by the "triple nickel". I know alot of guys locally that still have them that feel the same way. Any of the old ford hoes in Central NY still command good money. I agree on the way they look. Theres not much in that vintage that has the stance of a ford. Welcome to the forum.

[daman]

thanks Mike.

[Macca]

Hi, new to this one. Does any one know about aftermarket engine part options for Ford 655D turbo loaders? Seems they have a unusual ford engine configuration. 4.4" bore 4.2" stroke, 256 CID engine I believe. Thanks Macca

[frogfarmer]

The engine you describe is a very common ford built engine. Several companies have parts for them here in the states. They also made 3cyl models of the same engine 192cu in I believe. Search for ford tractor engines and you will find parts easily.

[Auctioneerhere]

I had a 555B if I remember right. It was a fun hoe to run. I liked the fact it was easy to see while using the loader bucket.

Sold it at Auction back in 2009.

[PAPS Landscape]

We have a yr 2000 655e and love it... 2100 hrs.

[Usernametaken]

We have an LB75.B and I hate the machine with a passion. 10 deg outside and you can't run the hoe with the glass down (hard on the knuckles). And that's if it'll even start. Once it gets down to 35 or so it really sounds bad trying to and just after it starts. I despise the bucket design compared to our Case or Deere. We had a 555A some time ago and it was a great machine. Just had to do quite a bit of welding on it .

[teberhard]

I am looking at buying a used machine. I am looking at a 1984 555 with 4200 hrs and a new engine. Seems to be in decent shape for $7500. Also looking at some Case 580D and E's. Their asking in the 9-12K range. Any suggestions or comments on these machines?

[shopteacher 1]

As far as mid 80's machines I believe the ford 555 is a heavier and stronger machine than the 580D. Nothing wrong with a case, they are good machines with a good dealer network. As far as digging I think they are pretty equal, but when it come to lifting, driving piling and digging stumps the 555 seams to have more power.

[teberhard]

What about a 1979 555? Are they hard to work on compared to case or mid 80's 555.

[frogfarmer]

Here in my area the Fords had the market from 80-85 or so. Most were 555s and were a strong reliable machines. Since then Case has had the market with a close Deere folowing. If I were going to suggest a machine you are really going to work I would get a tight Case 580 Super E or an Early 580K they are super strong and have an excellent track record. Parts are available new or salvage at reasonable prices. Most of the units will go 10,000 hours before they are scrap metal. A good Super E or K will be in the 10-15K price range for a 2wd std hoe and open cab. Prices can go over 20K with cabs, 4wd, and ext hoe. Most of the Ford hoes left here are used up and not worth the money some are asking. If you find a good low hour 555 it should last a long time but I havent seen one in several years.

[teberhard]

The closest 580 to me is a 580E 2wd with cab. Everything looks in good shape but it has 7800 hrs. They are asking 11900 for it. Is that too high hrs to even consider? I also have a 580D 2wd open cab with 3900 hrs but its not in as good condition and needs rear tires asking $8500.

[frogfarmer]

Sounds a little high for the E and I dont like the D. The E may be worth the money depending on the condition and what comes with it. I would expect the E to go for more around $8500 for a bare bones machine. I gave $10,500 for my 580K with 4000 hours. It needed 1 front tire and some electrical work but the pins were tight and the buckets were very good. No leaks when I bought it but the dipper cyl blew the seals about 50hrs in. I would say keep looking.

[Ford5500]

Hi everyone, new to the Heavy Equipment Forum. Sorry if in wrong thread and not on topic. I bought an old Ford 5500 back in January. It is far from tight and needs lots of TLC. Engine runs good, hyd.s work after adding 40 liters of oil and have slowly been working on it when I have time. My question is the oil used for the trans/shuttle and the rear end, are they of the same type of oil? Do they share the same oil as in tranfer back and forth? How many drain plugs and where. Thanks for any help.
Tony

[teberhard]

Thanks frogfarmer. I was thinking it was a little high but not real experienced.

[teberhard]

how is the 580E vs 580K?

[DGODGR]

This is an old thread. Interesting to me as I did most of my time learning on Ford backhoes. IMO great machines up to the point that they started showing up with the New Holland logos. IMO the quality began to suffer greatly with the "C" models. I still put a lot of hours on Fords. The last one I ran as an employee was a D model. I demoed an E model when I was buying my first backhoe. I ended up with a Cat 416B instead.
I prefered the performance of the Ford over the Case and Deere units of the day. In some ways I prefered the Fords over the Cat that I bought but the dealers ability to support was not on par with Cat. That along with my witness to a lesser quality machine lead me to the Cat (with Ford controls). I still look back on the 555, 555A, 555B, 655, and 655A as good machines. I never ran one with over 3,000 hours so I can't really comment on longevity.
The first 555B I ran was called a "Gold Digger". It had a logo of a Bear, holding a pick and shovel, and the words "Gold Digger or "Gold Digger Special" (I can't remember which), on the upper part of the dipper (where it attaches to the boom). The one I ran was 2wd, open rops, non extendable dipper. I'm not sure what the "Gold Digger" had that others did not. Has anyone else seen or used one of these? Only curiousity, but I wonder what, if anything, that the "Gold Digger" was or had that the others did not.

[teberhard]

Looking at a 1979 555 2wd. Anything to look out for? Are these machines easy to work on? Its in fair to good shape. What is it worth?

[jimg984]

look for amount of hours, (hours on the meter are based on RPMs,,1675 RPMs for a hour== 1 meter hour)wear on pins and bushings, tires, color of all fluids....all TBL s are hard to work on with all the framing..........depending on condition 5000 to 8000 my guess

[oarwhat]

Hi everyone, new to the Heavy Equipment Forum. Sorry if in wrong thread and not on topic. I bought an old Ford 5500 back in January. It is far from tight and needs lots of TLC. Engine runs good, hyd.s work after adding 40 liters of oil and have slowly been working on it when I have time. My question is the oil used for the trans/shuttle and the rear end, are they of the same type of oil? Do they share the same oil as in tranfer back and forth? How many drain plugs and where. Thanks for any help.
Tony

I'm not sure about the 5500 but the 555's and 655's had hydraulic tractor fluid in the Trans and 90 wt. in the rear end.

[Ford5500]

Thanks oarwhat for getting back to me. I checked with the local New Holland dealer and they told me that all 3 oils are the same hyd/trans/diff 134D oil they sell. They all gave the volumes oof oil needed for each location. 108 L for the hyd., 19 L for the trans and 33 L for the rear end. The oil that came out of the trans and rear end where in there for a long time. The trans oil was milky looking and the rear end oil was dark and thick. I will try to post a picture of the old girl shortly.

Tony

[Gary2Wheels]

Has anyone changed out the bucket hydtraulic line(s) that run from inside the boom,to the control valve lines?They seem very difficult to see,let alone remove,even with the rear deck plate removed inside the cab.
Thanks,Gary

[daman]

Fun job you need to remove the boom from the swing frame so you can pull out the hard line,not a bad job once the two are separated.

[Gary2Wheels]

Maybe I'm not giving you enough information...the hard lines inside the boom are OK,although the last owner (unknown) seems to have had the boom off once before,and failed to install the clamps for the hard liness in the boom, and flexible hoses around the pivot.I've got a leaky hose on the piston side of the bucket circuit,and the hoses have not been routed correctly around the boom pivot.After cleaning out 30lb (+-) of dirt and old hard grease,and cleaning around the lift control body area's hard lines to where they connect to the hoses,I'm ready to start disconnecting those that are needed to separate the leaky line beginning from the control valve body side.The machine is in a remote location,where I don't have access to a hoist,or other advantages like water,electricity,or shelter...so I'm proceeding cautiously before I get up to my ass in alligators,as the old saying goes.I've got the boom swung hard to the port (left) side so that I can see up into the hose to hard connections beneath the rear deck plate.My plan is to tag the lines I need to uncouple,and remove the lines from the lift control body that will allow me to access and remove the faulty line leading to up the pivot,and inside the boom. The proper procedure is to route the hoses correctly according to a diagram pictured,and through clamps in the boom pivot area.This was not done by the last half fast wrench,who also did not bother to keep the clamps and hardware required.Before I open up the lines,I want to make sure that I will be able to install a new one with the boom as it is.The only idea that comes to mind is to cap the control valve ports I disconnect,so that I can then operate the machine,and swing the boom correctly as needed to complete the job...yep,this ain't my idea of a fun time.Any further ideas sincerely welcomed! Gary

[pinesd3400]

Aside from replacing one hose at a time, not sure if you are awhere of, that Ford offered a special wrench for those for
around $30. I found nearly impossible to do this without this wrench. Dont know if New Holland still offers it but its one
of those things you cant live without. I think those clamps are the hose killers. All I now is that it is a task with out this
wrench made with weird angles Ill check to see if there is a number on the wrench for ya. sam

[daman]

If talking the rubber flex lines that goes from the valve body(controls) to the start of the hard lines(boom) it's easily really...

remove the backhoe from the tractor that frees up a lot of space in the back to work in then the key is removing lines but you need to remove one line to get to another the worse part of the job just make sure you do not cross lines,no special wrench is needed I've done it many times on my 4500 with standard tools tho a PITA these lines are very do able.

[DGODGR]

If talking the rubber flex lines that goes from the valve body(controls) to the start of the hard lines(boom) it's easily really...

remove the backhoe from the tractor that frees up a lot of space in the back to work in then the key is removing lines but you need to remove one line to get to another the worse part of the job just make sure you do not cross lines,no special wrench is needed I've done it many times on my 4500 with standard tools tho a PITA these lines are very do able.

The design of your 4500 is not the same as that of the 555. I think it would be much easier to remove the floor pan (allowing access to the back side of the valve body, where the hoses attach) than it would be to seperate the hoe from the tractor.
Gary, hoses are one of the easiest things to R&R on the machine. Access can be tricky though. The area between the swing frame and the boom is always congested with hoses, regardless of brand. I would recommend that you put a vaccum on the hydraulic tank. Then begin labeling and removing as you said. Since you are in there already, be sure to check all hoses to see which other ones may need replacement. The vaccum is not an absolute must, but it will help keep the mess to a minimum if you have to leave hoses off for a while. I alsp recommend capping the hoses ends and fittings (again if you will leave things open for an extended period) to prevent wind born contaminants, and rain water from entering your system.

[Gary2Wheels]

Thanks guys...I really appreciate your help.I cut a slot from the box end of a 1 1/2 " open end/ box wrench,to make it useful in removing the 1 1/2 " JIC fittings from the lift control valve body...as I said,the clamps were never put back on,although I've come across one each of the 2,and 3 line clamps.It seems like the 6 line clamp on the opening in the rear of the mainframe,and the clamp (4 line?) of the swing post/ boom retaining pin, are important in establishing the correct slack in the lines when the boom is swung L/R..do I need to order them from Ford/New Holland,or can I do without them? I'm trying to get all my little ducks in a row before I get into this.
Daman...thanks for your suggestion about removing the hoe,although it sorta makes me pee in my pants thinking about uncoupling,but more so reattaching it without fu*!&@% up out there in the woods with no auxiliary equipment.Should I just block up underneath it,as the machine sits with the stabilizers up..and just pull away from it once all loose lines are protected from dirt,and the valve body ports plugged?
Pinesd3400,thanks for you help regarding the special wrench for the clamps.As I said,some of them are missing resulting from the last repair someone did on this machine.
My gray hair is about to turn white over tis little job....
BEST to you both,Gary

[Gary2Wheels]

The design of your 4500 is not the same as that of the 555. I think it would be much easier to remove the floor pan (allowing access to the back side of the valve body, where the hoses attach) than it would be to seperate the hoe from the tractor.
Gary, hoses are one of the easiest things to R&R on the machine. Access can be tricky though. The area between the swing frame and the boom is always congested with hoses, regardless of brand. I would recommend that you put a vaccum on the hydraulic tank. Then begin labeling and removing as you said. Since you are in there already, be sure to check all hoses to see which other ones may need replacement. The vaccum is not an absolute must, but it will help keep the mess to a minimum if you have to leave hoses off for a while. I alsp recommend capping the hoses ends and fittings (again if you will leave things open for an extended period) to prevent wind born contaminants, and rain water from entering your system.

DGODGR...Thanks for you input.That was sorta my plan...leave the hoe attached.I've gotten six new lines(part# DBNND558EA,49 1/2" long) and hope they are the right ones.Are plugs available from NAPA ffor the lines and valve body ports?
BEST,Gary

[daman]

The design of your 4500 is not the same as that of the 555. I think it would be much easier to remove the floor pan (allowing access to the back side of the valve body, where the hoses attach) than it would be to seperate the hoe from the tractor.
Gary, hoses are one of the easiest things to R&R on the machine. Access can be tricky though. The area between the swing frame and the boom is always congested with hoses, regardless of brand. I would recommend that you put a vaccum on the hydraulic tank. Then begin labeling and removing as you said. Since you are in there already, be sure to check all hoses to see which other ones may need replacement. The vaccum is not an absolute must, but it will help keep the mess to a minimum if you have to leave hoses off for a while. I alsp recommend capping the hoses ends and fittings (again if you will leave things open for an extended period) to prevent wind born contaminants, and rain water from entering your system.
Correct i apologize i forgot what model we were talking about.

[Gary2Wheels]

no apology necessary,Man...all ideas are welcomed....G

[Gary2Wheels]

no aplology necessary guys...I appreciate all suggestions....Thanks,G

[DGODGR]

I'm sure that plastic caps are available at any place that sells JIC hoses (NAPA included). If you can't find any duct tape will do in a pinch (if things are clean enough). Another suggestion, a very important one, would be to be sure to set the boom on the ground in a secure way. I'll explain further. When you disconnect all the hydraulic lines there will be nothing preventing gravity from moving the boom, bucket, or dipper. This can be a problem for a couple of reasons. If the boom moves it may crush or damage someone or something. It also will make a big, oily mess as the oil in the cylinders evacuate through the open hose or fitting. It would probably be safest if you can stretch the boom and dipper all the way out, leaving the bucket fully curled, and set it down on the ground. Then cut the fuel to the engine (to turn it off-If I remember correctly the older 555s had a fuel cut off knob that you pull to kill the engine). Then operate ALL of the levers (including the loader functions) to relieve all residual system pressure. This will prevent you from finding an oily surprise when you loosen the hoses.

[Gary2Wheels]

...thanks.Man!..ALL good ideas.I've got he boom fully extended at 270 degress,slightly up hill..but have'nt curled the bucket.It's fully extended.I have both stabilizers down with a big log placed under the boom pivot to take the weight.I'm on bedrock,but still nervous and hope I don't have to get under the machine to access any of the hard lines at the lift control body.Will the stabilizers collapse if loaded with the backhoe section of the hydraulic system relieved (probably so,I think).I'm hoping to find JIC caps for the control body ports.
Best,Gar

[oldman1]

i have two ford backhoes and have been satisified with both

[Gary2Wheels]

...they're built well.My 750 tlb is a strong machine,even though it's got many hours on it.

[Gary2Wheels]

This job is turning out to be REAL difficult....as I can't access the connection b/t the flex hose and steel line leading to the control valve body,I'm trying to get the line out by first disconnecting it entirely from the control valve body (difficult enopugh!),then either breaking the flex/steel ine connection,or pulling the entire assembly up though the rear deck plate opening.Has anybody replaced hydraulic lines on a 750TLB before?..I'd sure like some ideas. A friend suggested cutting the old flex line with hacksaw,then removing the two pieces.According to the book,the for lines leading up through the boom are supposed to be 49 1/2" long,and the two for the lift cylinder circuit are 42" long.I'm thinking that getting a flare union fitting, to connect the new lines to old,then pulling them out is one way of doing it...ANY ideas men?...

[DGODGR]

Correct i apologize i forgot what model we were talking about.


This job is turning out to be REAL difficult....as I can't access the connection b/t the flex hose and steel line leading to the control valve body,I'm trying to get the line out by first disconnecting it entirely from the control valve body (difficult enopugh!),then either breaking the flex/steel ine connection,or pulling the entire assembly up though the rear deck plate opening.Has anybody replaced hydraulic lines on a 750TLB before?..I'd sure like some ideas. A friend suggested cutting the old flex line with hacksaw,then removing the two pieces.According to the book,the for lines leading up through the boom are supposed to be 49 1/2" long,and the two for the lift cylinder circuit are 42" long.I'm thinking that getting a flare union fitting, to connect the new lines to old,then pulling them out is one way of doing it...ANY ideas men?...

Daman, it seems as though I owe you the apology. I thought he was talking about a triple nickel (555) but he was/is asking about a 750. I think that your 4500 is closer to the 750 than a 555.
Gary, you might be wise to follow Daman's advice. I'm not quite sure what trouble you are having. If it's too tight to turn a conventional combination wrench I suggest using "angle" wrenches. I had to buy a set for working on my skid steer (very tight). They will be open end, shorter than conventional wrenches, and the angle of the working end will be sharper as well. This allows work in tighter areas.
Sorry I can't be of more help. Good luck.

[herc983]

Over the years I've done them a bunch of times. Have cut some HF wrenches up to get into tough places. Depending on which line you may have to take steel line off control valve to get access & take adjacent ones off to get at them. Not bad to do after you get the right wrenches & get the hang of it. BUT, Ive never had a machine that had a cab, understand that makes access tougher

[Gary2Wheels]

....yep,mine's got a cab...well,after using every curse wlord in a sailor's dictionary,I did get the old one out.New lines I had already orderded using the part # in the parts manual,turned out to be for the 6500,not 750tlb(7500) series.The ends on the 750 are JIC16's,but the new lines I have in hand have JIC12 ends....so I'm having new lines made up locally(almost $100 a pop!).I'll be back at it next week,and hope I can remember the configuration of things.The steel lines attached to the control body are configured such that they appear to stack when viewed through the end of the main frame...and working on yer back,alone gets old quick.Thanks for your ideas..I did cut the box ends of a 1 1/2" and 1 1/4" wrenches to make them into large scale brake line wrenches.I must have cleaned out at least 50 lbs of dirt,old grease and whatever so far.The worst part has been working w/o electrical power or running water!..

[pinesd3400]

Thats an idea I never though of, cutting box wrenches. I know what your going through, its bad enough doing this inside
the garage. Another major pain, just wait till the starter takes a dump in a snow storm. I got so34q*% off I hired a guy
for $100 to do it plus $200 for the starter. (was to cold for me) plus I had to raised the loader up with my loader.
Engineers should be given a toolbox, and big changes will be made, and I dont only mean Ford, but everything else.

[Gary2Wheels]

....and now I find the four hosees have ends that are JIC14 and JIC16 for the bucket and crowd circuits...by Wednesday I should be good to go.The profit margin on hoses is excessive..it's costiing me more to have two hoses made up than it did to get six off the internet..

[Gary2Wheels]

I've finished changing out the line,and am trying to get information on bleeding the hydraulic system.Can anyone help?.....there's no reference to the produre in the service manual.

[jughead]

mine has always bled itself. just make sure the tank is full and start it up. keep it full until everything works

[Gary2Wheels]

thanks JH..I sorta hoped it would,but just wanted to make sure before crankin' up.

[Gary2Wheels]

...all is well.Thanks,Guys.

[sten]

Hi Does anyone have any info on getting the 256 turbo diesel engine out of my old Ford 750 backhoe..... I would like to avoid any rookie mistakes
Thanks in advance

[Gary2Wheels]

I have'nt yet done this with my 750 tlb,but from the start,it's probably going to be most easy if you have large garage with a concrete floor (I don't).I've got the Ford service manual that goes through all the details,but mostly be aware that the machine will want to shift backwards once the loader is removed from the mainframe,so you'll need to block up under the swing post.You'll need to remove the hoe and cap all lines if you plan to then move the machine.Seems like a portable engine crane,or other small loader would be of immense help.I can scan,and email procedures if you tell me what specific procedures you're wanting.I ordered my manuals from SSB Tractor,and they are copies of the factory manual.....I would'nt do the job without them.

[sten]

Thanks Gary for the info and offer. I have an original factory Ford/ New Holland Versatile Hard copy manual coming it's print date 1973 but everything seems to be close I'm thinking mine may be a 75 as the Operators Manual is from 75. I also have the parts list on microfiche waiting to get that made into a hard copy.
Good advice checking the manual first.
I will be working in Gods garage... I was told this can be done with the loader on but secured and that the motor could be pulled out forward with the radiators etc removed. Hoping to use a bobcat with a boom. That's why I posted so I don't do anything that will make more work or be dangerous


I have'nt yet done this with my 750 tlb,but from the start,it's probably going to be most easy if you have large garage with a concrete floor (I don't).I've got the Ford service manual that goes through all the details,but mostly be aware that the machine will want to shift backwards once the loader is removed from the mainframe,so you'll need to block up under the swing post.You'll need to remove the hoe and cap all lines if you plan to then move the machine.Seems like a portable engine crane,or other small loader would be of immense help.I can scan,and email procedures if you tell me what specific procedures you're wanting.I ordered my manuals from SSB Tractor,and they are copies of the factory manual.....I would'nt do the job without them.

[Gary2Wheels]

STEN..Good plan.My 256 T/D has so many hours on it,I have no idea..the tach drive and fuel pump were intercoursed long before I got the machine.I was told by the Niagara Ford/New Holland dealer,that this motor had a tendency to score cylinders.Mine's got poor compression in one cylinder(at least),and a leaky exhaust manifold...but still has power enough to work OK.I've looked at rebuilt short and long blocks,but actually think a completely rebuilt motor motor may be the best way to go,despite the $4500 or so ( what I paid for the machine!).
I'm also w/o garage or electricity etc,so I respect your 'getting all the ducks in a row' thinking.I'm happy to share....good luck,and stay posted.

[sten]

Gary is that a long block or complete engine for $4500? I have seen them complete with turbo, injector pump exhaust etc. for almost $7000.00.
Mine was running great and then one day just shut down. Seemed as it was loosing fuel pressure so I replaced lift pump,fuel filter bled the injectors and now when I start it it runs great for about 3 to 5 minuets and then starts a rapping noise then begins to loose power until it dies. Thinking broken or weak valve spring but preparing to do the whole head and if the pistons show any kind of wear I will pull the engine and go from there. I was told there isn't any room to do an in frame rebuild.:Banghead
We don't have a Ford New Holland dealer anywhere near us. Been getting good help from one in Minnesota.
Again appreciate your time and post info.....



STEN..Good plan.My 256 T/D has so many hours on it,I have no idea..the tach drive and fuel pump were intercoursed long before I got the machine.I was told by the Niagara Ford/New Holland dealer,that this motor had a tendency to score cylinders.Mine's got poor compression in one cylinder(at least),and a leaky exhaust manifold...but still has power enough to work OK.I've looked at rebuilt short and long blocks,but actually think a completely rebuilt motor motor may be the best way to go,despite the $4500 or so ( what I paid for the machine!).
I'm also w/o garage or electricity etc,so I respect your 'getting all the ducks in a row' thinking.I'm happy to share....good luck,and stay posted.

[Gary2Wheels]

...dunno if this is a good lead,but I came across this used motor in CA...contact Andrew Fridlund,Independent Auto Consultants,P.O.Box 70386,Eugene,OR....tel 707-953-8867.... mountainlion6x6@yahoo.com
the website where I found this is www.dieselenginemotor.com it's a 4 cyl Ford T/D ,$1000 .Probably worth a call,anyways...

[Captain204]

Hi. I have a 95' Ford 555E Loader/Backhoe. I had the right side lifting ram rebuilt due to leaking. I reinstalled it and it worked ok at first. After a while,when i would pull back on the handle,the bucket would drop instead of raising.I found thatI had to rev the engine just to get it to raise.Now the left side ram is squirting bad and have to get it rebuilt.Any ideas on what is wrong?

[Gary2Wheels]

not sure,but I'd suspect the pressure relief valve in the control body...you're talking about the loader bucket,is that correct?If you have a service manual,check the troubleshooting and hydraulic test procedures section.I've found the the Ford/New Holland dealers helpful in getting answers.as well.

[Jethro]

picked up an older slightly worn Ford 5550 backhoe with an extend-a-hoe attachement. In the first week of use blew a hose at the pump, then found a leaking fuel line. The last one was found after running tank dry due to fuel gage not working. Problem, not used to working on this older equipment. The fuel is not pumping now so pump will need primed. Does anyone know the procedure for this pump. Does anyone know where I can get a parts and service manual for this tractor. It is easy to find the ag version, not the industrial loader / backhoe one. I think I need to brush up on my older diesel mechanics skills.

[sten]

picked up an older slightly worn Ford 5550 backhoe with an extend-a-hoe attachement. In the first week of use blew a hose at the pump, then found a leaking fuel line. The last one was found after running tank dry due to fuel gage not working. Problem, not used to working on this older equipment. The fuel is not pumping now so pump will need primed. Does anyone know the procedure for this pump. Does anyone know where I can get a parts and service manual for this tractor. It is easy to find the ag version, not the industrial loader / backhoe one. I think I need to brush up on my older diesel mechanics skills.

Some times the ag versions have more info than the industrial ones... On my 750 I got the fuel up to the fuel filter just by cranking it with the filter bleed valve open than I used to the manual supply pump to prime the injector pump and than cranked the engine over to bleed each injector..... had to do it three times to get it to keep the prime. Did you change your fuel filter after you ran the system out of fuel?
I finally found these fine folks in Minnesota they really helped me with parts and info.... ask for Kevin
A & C Farm Service, Inc. - (888)464-0912 - Paynesville, Minnesota (320) 243-3736
http://www.acfarmservice.com/

I had to get a new supply pump to prime for my 750 backhoe I got the supply pump from
http://www.dieselcare.us
hope this helps
Sten

[sutter1]

I have a couple questions about a Ford 4500, I think it is a 755 model. Ran good for quite ahwile, then wouldn't start. Had fuel pump rebuilt, replaced injectors, new battery, checked electrical and still nothing. Adjusted timing on fuel pump, and with starting fluid it wants to start, but doesn't. I started thiink about compression, so removed the head expecting to fing the head gasket blown somewhere, but no! Will take the head in for cleaing and re-surfacing. Could it be a valve problem! One cylinder is really sooty as well as the injector and valves have alot of carbon on them. I am at a loss at this point, and could use any help anyone is willing to offer!

[smokey1]

Do a compression check all cylinders. The black cylinder may be the only one getting fuel. Do you have a lift pump feeding the injector pump? make sure it is pumping Is the starter spinning the engine or just limping it arround?. Make sure your intake air filter is not pluged.open up injector lines and look for a good flow of fuel One other thing is make sure the top dead center mark on the flywheel is realy tdc at the piston. I know this is all basic stuff , but double check before you rip down the engine. the shut off solinoid vave or circuit is another check point for that macine.

[Ford5500]

picked up an older slightly worn Ford 5550 backhoe with an extend-a-hoe attachement. In the first week of use blew a hose at the pump, then found a leaking fuel line. The last one was found after running tank dry due to fuel gage not working. Problem, not used to working on this older equipment. The fuel is not pumping now so pump will need primed. Does anyone know the procedure for this pump. Does anyone know where I can get a parts and service manual for this tractor. It is easy to find the ag version, not the industrial loader / backhoe one. I think I need to brush up on my older diesel mechanics skills.

Jethro: I found a parts book at " Ceresville New Holland, Inc. web site". It is possible to look up any Ford or New Holland tractor or backhoe. Just go to the link and type in the model number. You can look up and print the parts for any part of the tractor. I am getting the local New Holland dealer downloading a service manual for me and put it on a cd. As for your fuel problem, you may have to fill the tank at least half way and start opening fuel lines leading to the filters and fuel hand pump and let them gravity bleed. Once you have fuel at the hand pump it should start to pump fuel. My backhoe needed a new fuel level sending unit and gauge. I was able to get an after market units that fit right in place of the old one for $25.00 each. Good luck with the tractor.

Tony

[Ford5500]

picked up an older slightly worn Ford 5550 backhoe with an extend-a-hoe attachement. In the first week of use blew a hose at the pump, then found a leaking fuel line. The last one was found after running tank dry due to fuel gage not working. Problem, not used to working on this older equipment. The fuel is not pumping now so pump will need primed. Does anyone know the procedure for this pump. Does anyone know where I can get a parts and service manual for this tractor. It is easy to find the ag version, not the industrial loader / backhoe one. I think I need to brush up on my older diesel mechanics skills.

By the way, forgot to include the web site: http://www.ceresvillenh.com/newhollandparts.html

[Myrtle]

I'm looking at buying a 655a, but the hydrostatic transmission seems to hesitate more than it should. Cpuld this be a sign of a major problem?

[sten]

I would make sure the fluid doesn't look bad or smell burned or has water in it etc. These transmissions I was told are pretty bullet proof they are used in all types of farm and industrial applications. expensive to rebuild any idea when the last service was or trans filter change?
sten in wa

Any noticeable leaks or bad seals etc.? Is the fluid low?

[dillonc]

I have a question.... we are looking at a 655C 4x4 Ford Backhoe with extend-a-hoe. Underneath the tractor, there is a red cable with approx 5" metal shaft on the end of it...just hanging there. ANy ideas as what this red cable with metal shaft is for? Or, where to plug it into?
The guy that owns it is old and has never been under the tractor---didn't know there was a cable hanging there. But, said it must not be too important, as all of it works.
We would like to know what it is.... any ideas?

[jimg984]

maybe a safety prop when the front bucket is up,,,,,,,if it is there should be brackets on the lift arms and lower frame rail,,,,,,, my best guess

[DGODGR]

Lift arm brace should be on the loader arms. If it has a cable attached I would guess that it might be for the parking brake. Have you verified it's operation? More info could be helpful (ie. what type of cable?; what is at the other end?; photos).

[Gary2Wheels]

does anyone have the New Holland part number for the oil filter of the 256 turbo diesel?......the Wix number would also be helpful.

[dwloop]

Wix's filter lookup shows it to use a 51806... Their web lookup works very well.

http://www.wixfilters.com/filterlookup/index2.asp?Section=4&Make=294&SubMake=502&Model=&SubModel=&Engine=3719&Year=&TempSection=4&TempMake=294&TempSubMake=502&TempModel=&TempEngine=3719

HTH

Dave

[Gary2Wheels]

dwloop...thanks!

[roberth58]

I just bought a 655c and need some help finding parts. Both gauge assemblies are fried so no temp fuel or tach. Ford wants $1200 for the pair so thats not an option :) Any ideas on where to look for used gauges? Or is adding generic gauges an option?

thanks

[DGODGR]

If I remember correctly the gauges on that machine are still analog (tach may even still be cable drive) and, if so, after market gauges would be a simple, cost effective option.

[mitch504]

Whether the original guages were analog or not, you can use regular cheap after market guages from any parts store for oil pressure, temp, and voltmeter.
Here is a Tach and hourmeter:

http://www.tinytach.com/tinytach/diesel.php

You're on your own with the fuel guage, as I've never found one worth the money.
Good Luck

[JD955SC]

You're on your own with the fuel guage, as I've never found one worth the money.

Best fuel gauge out there is a stick. Stick the tank! We do the same thing with airplanes because the fuel gauges are completely worthless (in fact we have large, clear plastic straw like "guages" with markings for sticking the tank in the airplane...you could make the same thing for a tractor if you really wanted.

[mitch504]

Best fuel gauge out there is a stick. Stick the tank! We do the same thing with airplanes because the fuel gauges are completely worthless (in fact we have large, clear plastic straw like "guages" with markings for sticking the tank in the airplane...you could make the same thing for a tractor if you really wanted.

That is what I do w/ everything except my Case 580sK. it has to many curves in the fill pipe. Some years back I bought a set of matched 1995 Mack tractors that were bought new by Matlack Tank lines. They left the factory w/o fuel guages. Some of my older Cat equip. has a dipstick in a slot under the fuel cap for a guage.

On a different subject, what part of SC are you from?

[roberth58]

The tiny tach looks like a winner. As far as generic gauges, where can I find out the normal operating temps and pressures for the Ford 268 engine. I found a 3 gauge set with warning lights built-in, 6psi oil pressure, 232 degrees water temp and 253 oil temp, do these sound reasonable?

thanks

[JD955SC]

On a different subject, what part of SC are you from?

I'm from the Greenwood area. Live up in the mountains above Greenville nowadays.


1995 Mack tractors that were bought new by Matlack Tank lines. They left the factory w/o fuel gauges

Interesting that trucks built in the 1990s would leave the factory without fuel gauges. I don't recall having any problems with automotive fuel gauges, but I've never had much luck with heavy equipment or small engine fuel gauges (if it was brought new, they work at first, then lose calibration, then fail completely...and if brought used, they are broken).

[DGODGR]

That is what I do w/ everything except my Case 580sK. it has to many curves in the fill pipe. Some years back I bought a set of matched 1995 Mack tractors that were bought new by Matlack Tank lines. They left the factory w/o fuel guages. Some of my older Cat equip. has a dipstick in a slot under the fuel cap for a guage.

On a different subject, what part of SC are you from?

Be careful with the "stick check" method. Having a part of the stick break of in the tank can cause some intermittent fuel problems. The offending piece of stick can float in and out of the fuel pick up and this can obviously make the resultant fuel delivery issues hard to track down (spoken from experience). IMO the best way to "check" the fuel is to fill the tank after every shift. My 416C would onlyuse about 12 gallons in 8 hours (a bit more if using the loader most of the time). Not too hard to keep full. Helps reduce condensation too.

[Boomer21]

New Guy..... 1988 Ford 755B....... I recently had to pull the engine after losing all power to my hydraulics. The hydraulic pump is fine. The Problem: All of the bolts attaching, what is commonly refered to as, the "fibre gear" to the flywheel were completely sheard off. The engine has now been completely overhauled and a new "fibre gear" installed. My Question: I am very nervous about reinstalling the engine without having any idea as to why the bolts sheared. Does anyone have any ideas as to the cause ? ......This may be coincidental but when I lost all power I also discovered a broken hydraulic line underneath the machine. I lost a considerable amount of fluid. Approx 5 gallons maybe more. Thank you all.

[jdm]

Local contractor worked 2 555s like a dog for years. Enough said.

[Gary2Wheels1]

OK,on the Ford 750 tlb..It's been awhile since I posted..forgot my original login ID& PW,but no matter...the problem now is,that today in lifting the mast to pick up a large tree,with the boom extended,I got iniitial resistance to the load,followed by a large BANG,and no further response from the lift circuit.The bucket circuit,stabilizers,swing cylinders,and loader functiuons seem OK,but the boom won't lift.I suspect the lift circuit relief valve failed,as there is no evidence of a broken hydraulic line,but a dripping from undereath the lift control vave body.I'm about to clean all the dirt and crud from the control valve body with Gunk.I think the llft circuit relief valve,can be replaced using a 1-1/4" socket,and simply swapped out for a good,or new one.
Has anyone had this occur?..I'm hoping the old girl has'nt **** the bed.What's it likely to cost to replace the relief valve?...I think the part number is D9NNE562GA,not sure..

[sten]

Hey just saw your post tried to e-mail you but your address @att.net bounced
Have not had to deal with any hydraulic valves yet
but I know you want to watch how they come apart so you don't lose any pieces... Parts are available...if I remember you have the manuals etc to show you how they come apart and the parts needed. Your hydraulic oil and filter =
are clean right? Your right about starting with the main valve as long as all other hydraulics are working
I had mine running again and it just quit...motor is locked up..thought may
be hydroloc but have since pulled the injectors..checked the starter isn't
stuck so I'm back to pulling the engine and just getting it rebuilt. I notice a post above yours Boomer21 with a 755 just pulled his due to broken bolts on his fiber ring gear.
Keep me posted.. I take it you have healed up ok
Scott

[sten]

Hey Boomer21
Hi can you give me any details about pulling your engine? Depending on the hours on the machine fatigue or one or more bolts loosened??? did you notice any extra vibration?... did you or do you loctite them?
I need to pull my engine in my 750 and need to leave my loader on engine is stuck.
Did you use another machine to pull your engine of another method any time saving advice?
thanks
Sten in Washington State USA (the wetone)

[Gary2Wheels1]

Hey just saw your post tried to e-mail you but your address @att.net bounced
Have not had to deal with any hydraulic valves yet
but I know you want to watch how they come apart so you don't lose any pieces... Parts are available...if I remember you have the manuals etc to show you how they come apart and the parts needed. Your hydraulic oil and filter =
are clean right? Your right about starting with the main valve as long as all other hydraulics are working
I had mine running again and it just quit...motor is locked up..thought may
be hydroloc but have since pulled the injectors..checked the starter isn't
stuck so I'm back to pulling the engine and just getting it rebuilt. I notice a post above yours Boomer21 with a 755 just pulled his due to broken bolts on his fiber ring gear.
Keep me posted.. I take it you have healed up ok
Scott

Scott...sorry to hear you're still having problems with the 256 td.I replaced the hydraulic oil flter,and topped off the tank recently..all was working fine today until I tried to lift with the hoe,as I said.Previously when I have reached the maximum capacity digging,I've heard the relief valves open...and I think that was the case today initially,as I tried to lift this heavy oak tree.The second time I tried,it felt and sounded like a hydraulic line rupturing,with the characteric BANG!...only there was no sign of a major hydraulic leak,just a little dripping from underneath the control valve body assembly.I was then unable to lift the boom,and could hear the hydraulic pressure leaking internally somewhere when I tried to get it lift.I was able to raise up the stabilizers and gradually drag the hoe,as I used the swing cylinders to straighten up the mast draw the bucket back,drawing the boom up and skidding the flat of the bucket.Curiously, moving the mast lever forward to lower it did seem to get a partial response.I'm guessing the lift control relief valve has failed somehow..maybe an O-ring failed dunno yet.I'll call the Ford/New Holland dealer tomorrow...seems like a new valve is $492,and a rebuliding kit around $300.
I have'nt goten into my motor yet...just keep changing the oil.It definetly has one weak cylinder,noticeable on cold startup.Once it's warmed up,it's hard to notice any sign of it though.Oil pressure is 60lbs cold, 25lbs hot..Seems like the Shell Rotella !5W40 works better than anything else..
The new knee is still a litlle stiff and weak,but slowly coming along...it'll be one year mid August since the TKR.I'm told it takes about a year and a half to fully recover.Climbing in and out of the hoe does'nt hurt I guess!

[garylb]

I have a ford 4500 tlb Oil comes out of a vent on the right side in front of the clutch it could me to full of oil any ideas???

[Gary2Wheels1]

the Ford/NH dealer seems to think the piston nut inside the lift cylinder may have come loose,and dropped of the rod.I'm thinkinking this may be correct,as the boom will power down,but not up....and the crowd and bucket circuits,stabilizers and f/e loader are working pretyy much normally.When I try to get the boom to lift,I can hear the hydraulic oil moving through the lines,but no response in lifting the boom.Another machine,or fork lift would be ideal...right now I have chain runing over the cab from the loader bucket and back to the lift cylinder.I've used a come along to take the weight off the piston pin into the boom,and will open up the cylinder when I sort through this a bit more.Has anyone tried serving a lift cylinder this way?....


Scott...sorry to hear you're still having problems with the 256 td.I replaced the hydraulic oil flter,and topped off the tank recently..all was working fine today until I tried to lift with the hoe,as I said.Previously when I have reached the maximum capacity digging,I've heard the relief valves open...and I think that was the case today initially,as I tried to lift this heavy oak tree.The second time I tried,it felt and sounded like a hydraulic line rupturing,with the characteric BANG!...only there was no sign of a major hydraulic leak,just a little dripping from underneath the control valve body assembly.I was then unable to lift the boom,and could hear the hydraulic pressure leaking internally somewhere when I tried to get it lift.I was able to raise up the stabilizers and gradually drag the hoe,as I used the swing cylinders to straighten up the mast draw the bucket back,drawing the boom up and skidding the flat of the bucket.Curiously, moving the mast lever forward to lower it did seem to get a partial response.I'm guessing the lift control relief valve has failed somehow..maybe an O-ring failed dunno yet.I'll call the Ford/New Holland dealer tomorrow...seems like a new valve is $492,and a rebuliding kit around $300.
I have'nt goten into my motor yet...just keep changing the oil.It definetly has one weak cylinder,noticeable on cold startup.Once it's warmed up,it's hard to notice any sign of it though.Oil pressure is 60lbs cold, 25lbs hot..Seems like the Shell Rotella !5W40 works better than anything else..
The new knee is still a litlle stiff and weak,but slowly coming along...it'll be one year mid August since the TKR.I'm told it takes about a year and a half to fully recover.Climbing in and out of the hoe does'nt hurt I guess!

[Gary2Wheels1]

...I'm not familiar with the 4500tlb.I'm sure others are...


I have a ford 4500 tlb Oil comes out of a vent on the right side in front of the clutch it could me to full of oil any ideas???

[rabia]

this is also ford backhoe 555C


92291

[Gary2Wheels1]

Does any one know of a lead to a lift cylinder for the Ford 750 tlb?..I've put out a couple of quote requests....or new one and it's maker?

[Gary2Wheels1]

I had a local shop take the hydraulic cylinder apart,and as I had thought the nut had come off the piston rod.The last person that had it apart used a nylok nut,instead of a grade 8 as rquired.I did some further damage to the seals and piston spacer,and cylinder walls,when I was trying to diagnose,but it's repaired,back together and on the machine..it was memorable.

[rustyjames]

Hi Everyone,

I've got a shot at picking up an '88 655 2wd. hoe for around 8 grand, and would like to know the Ford experts thoughts on a few things. The machine is supposed to only have around 2,000 hrs. on it. The guy who's selling it is telling me the machine won't move in forward or reverse until it warms up for a few minutes, regardless of the outdoor temperature. After it warms up, the machine performs like it's supposed to. He also said that one of the rear stabilizers creeps down while in use. Other than those issues the machine is tight, all the glass is good, heater and lights all work, etc. Any thoughts?

[Gary2Wheels1]

as you describe,I'd doubt the hours..in the NYC metro area machines like this get a lot of use.The stabilizer creeping down indicates a leak somewhere...what shape are the hydraulic lines in?.I would probaly be worth your while to pay for an inspection by a local equipment dealer or contractor..

[rustyjames]

Gary,

Thanks for your input. The machine has no visible, external leaks. I'm pretty knowledgable about equipment as I've been exposed to the heavy construction industry since I was a kid, and am certified in heavy equipment repair. I'm not really concerned about the stabilizer creep as much as I am about the machine needing to have to "warm up" before it'll move. The guy who's selling it is a good friend and he said when he bought it, about a year ago, it worked fine. This guy treats his equipment better than anyone I know of. I'm not that familiar with Fords, but I've done a little research and from what I've gathered is that the problem could be in the dump valve? I was kinda hoping someone here with Ford experience could offer their input as to what the problem might be and what I'd be looking at as far as cost for a fix.

[Gary2Wheels1]

RJ...well,I think you're on top of it.I would just suggest first making sure the transmission fluid is up,and the filter clean.That's just a shot at the basics first.I think the main positive thing is that you know the seller,and have some idea of the machine's history.My old 750tlb has a three speed automatic...the fluid was so low on the dip stick,i couldl'nt even see it.These machines get worked hard,and poorly maintained.Meb'be ssomeone else here can be of more help re the sluggish tranny...

[rustyjames]

Gary,

The guy is a stickler when it comes his equipment, and he's serviced the whole machine. The tranny isn't sluggish, it just won't move in either direction until it runs for a few minutes. And he said that it all of a sudden started doing it, there was never any problem with the machine. I'll do a little more research and make a decision, I really don't need anything in my life at this point that needs extensive fixing.

[davis1676]

do you still have the problem with the machine not moving until its warm. I have the manuals for my 555b (shuttle transmission) I can look it up in my books.

[maddogoffroad]

Hey guy, i just bought a 555A. i had the engine totaly rebuilt, injection pump rebuilt too. The hydrolic put let go shortly after, i found one that i made fit(only as a1gpm more). After all i got it all in the back of the one control valve broke right off. I took the all off and i have to replace one of the slice/knife control valve section. i have a skecth here, they call it a "20J03 control valve 4 Lever"

parts number:E5NND661AA
Parts name: Knife section
Description:section Assy. Lift, start year04/01/1978

Any of you have any section kicking around?

verville@eastlink.ca

Thanks

[ababine]

Hello Everyone,

I just purchased a 1984 Ford 755A Backhoe. I am happy with the machine, but I have a few questions for the experts. I have been told that quite a few people have the same issue with the tractor not moving until completely warmed up. Well I warmed it for 45 minutes this one cold morning, and it still didn't want to move in 10 degree weather. I found out that the gear shifter that I thought was frozen in 2nd was actually frozen in 3rd. the needle was bent. I was able to hold the shifter in first and it would move and ran fine after that. My problem is the gear shifter being frozen. Does anyone know the easiest way to get penetrating oil down the shaft. Short of drilling a bunch of holes everywhere, I am going to have to take half the machine apart. Taking the column apart got me nowhere.

Thank you for your time and I enjoy hearing of your experiences.

[jimg984]

transmission gear don't work down the column,, thats forward/reverse/netural shift shaft

the gear shifting works with the shaft coming strait up from the transmission,,,, no wonder it would'n move with it in third gear and 10 degrees. at low temps i extend out riggers and raise rear tires off the ground and let the engine turn the tire for about 15 minutes
i guess you know all this,,, but your descrption confussed me,,,, sounds like water got in thru a hole in the boot,,,, put pentreting oil in the same way

[ababine]

transmission gear don't work down the column,, thats forward/reverse/netural shift shaft

the gear shifting works with the shaft coming strait up from the transmission,,,, no wonder it would'n move with it in third gear and 10 degrees. at low temps i extend out riggers and raise rear tires off the ground and let the engine turn the tire for about 15 minutes
i guess you know all this,,, but your descrption confussed me,,,, sounds like water got in thru a hole in the boot,,,, put pentreting oil in the same way

I should have clarified. It shifts F N R fine, but it is stuck in 2nd gear. I can't seem to get it to click into 1st or 3rd without holding the shifter.