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rangerfreak
06-04-2007, 03:09 PM
I created this thread to hopefully discuss komatsu dozers, in order to help people like myself that have a komatsu dozer and have questions about them.

wrenchbender
06-04-2007, 05:26 PM
Welcome aboard rangerfreak:drinkup , I'm not a Komatsu expert:o but there are a few guys here that do qualify. So fire away and someone will probly answer all your questions.

Countryboy
06-04-2007, 10:14 PM
Welcome to HEF rangerfreak! :drinkup

rangerfreak
06-05-2007, 08:19 AM
im loving this forum its been a big help

R Leo
06-05-2007, 11:43 AM
Hi, n00b here too!!!

FWIW, I have a D20-P6. Just bought it about 3 weeks ago...I have both the repair and the operation/service manual. I'm by no means any sort of expert but, if you have any questions you think might be covered in the manuals, I may be able to find the info and answer them.

rangerfreak
06-05-2007, 03:04 PM
on my new dozer or should i say used dozer there 3 dipsticks one is under the hood which i know is the oil stick, then there is one right underneath the seat what is this one?and what is the one underneath the brake peddle on the right.Also what specific fluid should i use on each one.
thank you for your time and have a nice day

P.S how do i tighten my tracks

R Leo
06-05-2007, 04:16 PM
on my new dozer or should i say used dozer there 3 dipsticks one is under the hood which i know is the oil stick, then there is one right underneath the seat what is this one?and what is the one underneath the brake peddle on the right.Also what specific fluid should i use on each one.
thank you for your time and have a nice day

P.S how do i tighten my tracks
Rangerfreak,
All my documentation is at home, I'll look at the manual and post the exact answers for you this evening.

I do know that the hydraulic system does NOT use regular hydraulic fluid.

Take care,
Randy


PS - I ordered my Operation/Service manual from this outfit: www.manuals.us
The repair manual came with the dozer (the prior owner had bought it)

rangerfreak
06-05-2007, 04:29 PM
Was wondering how to tighten my tracks on my komatsu d20A-5

rangerfreak
06-05-2007, 04:33 PM
is this bad iv heard that 10w-40 motor oil is a choice but i have been using regular ro anti wear hydraulic fluid

R Leo
06-05-2007, 04:36 PM
Was wondering how to tighten my tracks on my komatsu d20A-5

Right. I'll scan the pages and post them for you when I get home.

Orchard Ex
06-05-2007, 08:31 PM
on my new dozer or should i say used dozer there 3 dipsticks one is under the hood which i know is the oil stick, then there is one right underneath the seat what is this one?and what is the one underneath the brake peddle on the right.Also what specific fluid should i use on each one.
thank you for your time and have a nice day

P.S how do i tighten my tracks

One is the transmission and the other is the clutch.
To tighten the tracks: take off the access plate on the track cover, put your grease gun on the zerk and pump to tighten the tracks. Go slow, it doesn't take very much.

I think that the book says 30w oil in the trans, finals and transfer case (D21), 10W in the clutch and hydraulic tank.

kc5gxc
06-05-2007, 09:40 PM
Howdy guys
I am a new owner of an old Kom D21P-6. Been pushing a lot of brush and smaller trees with it. It runs mighty good. I can't make new posts yet.
I just bought a new hydraulic filter for it today. Can't get one from anywhere but Komatsu ... but all other filters are available from normal sources.
I have ordered all the manuals from SSB Tractor.
So far, I have changed all fluids and filters.
Welded on it for 3 days.
Adjusted all linkages.
Installed a new coolant temp gauge and an oil press gauge.
Rewired some stuff on it.
Adjusted the tracks by the book.
Been told I got screwed when I bought it.
Found out I can't find another one anywhere around here and the guy who said I got screwed wants to sell me one for over twice what I paid for this one....ha ha ha ha ha ha......the jerk!!!!!
So far, it has done really well for me, but then, I never even ran one before, so can't really compare it with anything, but my tractor...ha ha
Hope to see more posts about these machines.
Thanks, Pete in MS

Steve Frazier
06-05-2007, 10:48 PM
Welcome to Heavy Equipment Forums kc5gxc!!:drinkup

I've upgraded your account so you may start threads now. Thanks for joining us!!

rangerfreak
06-05-2007, 11:00 PM
One is the transmission and the other is the clutch.
To tighten the tracks: take off the access plate on the track cover, put your grease gun on the zerk and pump to tighten the tracks. Go slow, it doesn't take very much.

I think that the book says 30w oil in the trans, finals and transfer case (D21), 10W in the clutch and hydraulic tank.

(there is a finals dip stick too as well as a transfer case dip stick along with a transmission dip stick as well?)

R Leo
06-05-2007, 11:01 PM
Dipstick locations (http://berryhillfarm.us/Dozer/scan0001.jpg).
Final drive oil level (http://berryhillfarm.us/Dozer/scan0004.jpg).
Track adjustment. (http://berryhillfarm.us/Dozer/scan0005.jpg)
Fluid specfications. (http://berryhillfarm.us/Dozer/scan0006.jpg).

Hope this helps some. Let me know if there's anything else I can do.

rangerfreak
06-06-2007, 06:32 AM
Dipstick locations (http://berryhillfarm.us/Dozer/scan0001.jpg).
Final drive oil level (http://berryhillfarm.us/Dozer/scan0004.jpg).
Track adjustment. (http://berryhillfarm.us/Dozer/scan0005.jpg)
Fluid specfications. (http://berryhillfarm.us/Dozer/scan0006.jpg).

Hope this helps some. Let me know if there's anything else I can do.

thanks a bundle for your help

R Leo
06-06-2007, 07:53 AM
thanks a bundle for your help
Not a problem. Take care.

RL

rangerfreak
06-06-2007, 05:36 PM
:drinkup i have just a few questions about my d20A-5 dozer

A:is there a fuse box and where is it

B:does anybody have an colored picture of the grease fitting area where you tighten the tracks.

C:how do i get the plugs out so that i check out the fluid level of the final drive on the back of the dozer.

Thank you for your time and have a nice day

R Leo
06-06-2007, 06:07 PM
A:is there a fuse box and where is it
It's under the rectangular black cover on the left side of the dash panel...at least that's where it is on a -6...you have a -5, right?



B:does anybody have an colored picture of the grease fitting area where you tighten the tracks.
Look at the long steel cover that covers the side of the track frame. There's a smaller cover built into that big piece of steel. The zerk is under there.



C:how do i get the plugs out so that i check out the fluid level of the final drive on the back of the dozer.
I think that uses a large allen wrench...maybe 12mm or 14mm? You can get one at NAPA. They're used to remove differential and transmission plugs on foreign cars.

Orchard Ex
06-06-2007, 08:07 PM
:C:how do i get the plugs out so that i check out the fluid level of the final drive on the back of the dozer.

I have a -6, the plug has a square hole that fits a 1/2" breaker bar or ratchet nicely. (I.E. ratchet with no socket on it) If it's not square it may be an 8 point which still fits a square drive of the ratchet/b. bar.

machineman
06-06-2007, 09:06 PM
I have a '96 D20P-7

To tighten the tracks remove the ram plate with a 17mm wrench. Theres a zerk in there. Pump a few squirts in there until the track droop is 20 to 30mm.

Here's the lubricants guide for the D20/21 -6 and -7 Models.

kc5gxc
06-06-2007, 09:25 PM
Thanks for the upgrade.
If anyone needs any book info on the D21, I got the books.
Pete

wdnewman
06-07-2007, 06:31 PM
After a few months of checking around, I think I have narrowed my dozer of choice down to either the D20 or D21 Komatsu. As a newbie, many, many questions remain:

1. Is the D20 transmission stronger and more reliable than the D21?
2. Have you owners found the Japanese Komatsu grey market dozers to be well maintained off the boat?
3. Is there any one major problem on this dozer to be careful of?
4. When purchased should I renew all fluids and filters automatically, or go by the hour meter?
5. What would be a good loaded mile charge to transport the dozer to my home?
6. Is the price of $14,000 to $18,000 too high for this dozer in the 2,000 hour range?

I have about 130 acres in central Mississippi and the dozer would be used for light grading off of old terraces and small tree and brush clearing. I have looked at two JD450B's but both were junk with smoking exhaust and 0% track time left.
Thanks for the help.

WD

R Leo
06-07-2007, 07:14 PM
I'm really new to this and am, by NO means, any sort of expert. Here's what I've found out in my research:

I wouldn't buy a 'D21' ...it's too easy to abuse that shuttleshift tranny and expensive to fix when it breaks.

Look for rust..my '20 has a lot of rust around the radiator and the deck plate is rusted to the point that I'm probably going to have to weld on a backing plate. The belly pan has a rust hole too.

The '-5' is pre 1989 (I think). I have heard that they are more difficult to get repair parts for.

I don't know if I would trust the hour meter. My hour meter is broken (or disconnected) and shows 2190 hrs. The PO thought that it had about 3000hrs on it.

If possible, I'd do an engine oil analysis before purchase. I did on mine and I know that there's no bearing metal or coolant in the lube oil.

Overall, mine is in pretty good shape — 60-70% undercarriage, fairly new sprockets, the pads have had grouser bars welded onto them and the hood and other covers aren't beat-up. I paid $13,800 for it too...and, best of all, I found it only 45 miles from the farm. The PO hauled it to me for the cost of fuel.

Some good stuff in this thread (http://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/Forum/showthread.php?t=2627)about the little Komatsus

Countryboy
06-07-2007, 08:50 PM
4. When purchased should I renew all fluids and filters automatically, or go by the hour meter?


First off, Welcome to HEF wdnewman! :drinkup

The only thing I can comment on is the one I quoted. I would change all fluids, filters and such after purchase. While changing the fluids, take some samples and have them sent off to the lab. This can tell you any unseen issues with the internals of the components.

If you can, get some samples before purchase. This can give you a heads up of problems, and could ultimately tell you if the machine has problems already. If the results show multiple issues then you might need to keep looking.

wdnewman
06-07-2007, 09:40 PM
Thanks for the insight guys! I have already decided to stay away from the re-painted units, and to try to stay near the 2000 hour mark, but as noted, you can't always trust the hour meters. There is a Mitsubishi (sp?) BD2F for sale nearby, an early 70's model, but the hour meter only shows 1,100 hours! (Yeah, right!). But checking on the web, it looks like the Mitsu parts are few and far between, so that dozer is not an option.
The oil check is a good idea, but the units I am checking on are some distance away and I may have to wait after purchase to get that deep into the dozer. It WILL be done though, either before or after purchase. I WILL check for rust, as a lot of those Japanese units are worked near sea water.
FOPS with sweeps is a requirement of mine also, but will probably have to be done later. That will be a subject of a later post.

Thanks again.

machineman
06-07-2007, 09:55 PM
Also consider what type of tracks you need. Lots of them come with swamp tracks which are great for soft dirt and mud but not so good on rocks. For $14K to $18K you should be able to get a decent -7 model with <4000hrs. The -7E models are 12V systems which are nice for jumping and finding cheap off the shelf lights and accessories.

wdnewman
06-07-2007, 10:19 PM
I meant to bring that up too. Although the local conditions vary between packed clay and soft mush, we don't have any rock to contend with. However I did hear that the standard tracks on the 20A are much easier on the undercarriage which I don't know to be a fact, but it seems to make sense. I would like whichever type has the best push to it. Any suggestions? And thanks for that information about the -7E model. I didn't know about the 12 volt for that series, and that would sure be a plus.

rangerfreak
06-08-2007, 08:35 AM
when i get done on my dozer the oil level is at low i checked it the following morning and it was at full, im guessing that this was because there was still oil in the rockers when i shut is down.
to get to my point i added oil after i turned it off (fearing running out of oil) until it said full,next morning i checked i the oil again and it was past the High mark covering the letters on the dipstip that said engine stoped. is this ok

R Leo
06-08-2007, 11:00 AM
It's no different than any other engine; you need to let it sit for a while on level ground before checking the oil.

rangerfreak
06-08-2007, 12:44 PM
It's no different than any other engine; you need to let it sit for a while on level ground before checking the oil.

so leo i assume this means that the engine is overfilled:Banghead

R Leo
06-08-2007, 12:50 PM
so leo i assume this means that the engine is overfilled:Banghead
Yes. I'd say if you check it cold on level ground and the oil level is above the top mark on the dipstick, it is overfilled.

RonG
06-08-2007, 01:04 PM
For what it is worth,I wore out an undercarriage on a D-21 and the machine was NO trouble during that time,sprockets so smooth it would not back up a hill and there was no sign of any transmission issues that I could see.We ran it a few years after that with no problems either.Ron G

wdnewman
06-08-2007, 01:54 PM
For what it is worth,I wore out an undercarriage on a D-21 and the machine was NO trouble during that time,sprockets so smooth it would not back up a hill and there was no sign of any transmission issues that I could see.We ran it a few years after that with no problems either.Ron G

Ron,

I would imagine the problems attributed to the D-21 tranny could possibly be mis-use by people like me who don't know what they are doing. The old opinion that manual transmissions are stronger than automatics (and truly they once were) could be behind the belief that the D-20 has the better transmission. Just a guess here, but I think a possibility. Anybody else had experience in this area?
:beatsme

WD

R Leo
06-08-2007, 02:14 PM
The old opinion that manual transmissions are stronger than automatics (and truly they once were) could be behind the belief that the D-20 has the better transmission.

That could very well be the case.

All the information I accumulated was purely anecotal and was from people that had manual machines. I based my decision to stick with a manual purely on the guess that a shuttleshift had the potential for having received more abuse than a manual.

wdnewman
06-08-2007, 02:24 PM
I based my decision to stick with a manual purely on the guess that a shuttleshift had the potential for having received more abuse than a manual.

Leo,

Thats exactly how I reached my decision to go with the D20. There seems to be no price advantage one over the other, so I went with what I heard around the barracks, so to speak. (The standard is stronger, easier and cheaper to repair, etc. etc.) There are a LOT of D21 dozers out there, and if I am correct, big K isn't offering the standard transmission any more at all.

WD

Orchard Ex
06-08-2007, 04:38 PM
The powershift may have a little more to "go wrong", but it's easy to abuse the manual transmission. It has no "syncro's" (probably wrong term, but you understand what I mean) so you have to slip the clutch to get the gears to line up. If you aren't patient or are having a bad day it's like being in a coffeehouse with all the grinding. Not that I ever grind a gear on mine. :rolleyes: Also, if you are running it for more than a day or 2 at a time the power shift is really nice.

RonG
06-08-2007, 05:46 PM
Just as an example to get the thinking pointed in the right direction,back in the fifties when the horsepower race began Chrysler who was the leader in the field at the time with the Hemi quickly concluded that an automatic with the torque converter and oil cushioned gear train produced less shock loading and therefore less breakage coupled with the torque multiplication combined to make a bettter,more reliable product.These days with electronic control it would be difficult to damage the driveline because of all the safeguards built in.There are exceptions to every rule but I would choose an auto every time for reliability,especially with an inexperienced operator.Ron G

kc5gxc
06-08-2007, 09:15 PM
I've got the D21 and sure like it. Use the inching pedal like a clutch to keep it smooth and not shock load it. It had 5,143 hrs on it when I got it and was used by contractors for grading homesites, etc....
I can tell you it ain't got any trans slippage like a torque converter does. It goes rite now, and will stall the engine down if you get it against an inmovable thing.
I took the hr meter out to make room for an oil press gauge....cold it's at 75 psi and hot it's at around 40-35. Also put in a temp gauge .... need a voltmeter now but a meter for a 24 V system is hard to find....anyway....ain't got another hole for it...ha. Never used a dozer before and find that this thing is the roughest riding machine I have ever been on. It will shake you apart. Tractor is bad, dozer is worse. I think the pyramid tracks may make it worse...is this the case? I can sure tell it gets smooth when I get into a soft area. Also, I am happy with fuel usage...seems to sip it.
thanks
Pete in MS

wdnewman
06-08-2007, 09:36 PM
Well,

You guys sure give me a lot to think about. It appears that either tranny is OK. I probably will decide on the best dozer on other factors like undercarriage and engine hours and just take whichever transmission it has. Pete, I'll bet that the pyramid tracks ARE rougher than the standard grousers, but the two JD450's I checked out had the standard tracks and would shake your fillings loose. I thought it might just be the antique nature of these old machines, but it might turn out to be a normal dozer thing. I live in central MS, with soil much like you have, so I can expect about the same performance as you get. Do you have much slippage with the pyramids when pushing small trees and brush, are or they OK?

WD

R Leo
06-08-2007, 10:33 PM
I've got the D21 and sure like it. Use the inching pedal like a clutch to keep it smooth and not shock load it. It had 5,143 hrs on it when I got it and was used by contractors for grading homesites, etc....
I can tell you it ain't got any trans slippage like a torque converter does. It goes rite now, and will stall the engine down if you get it against an inmovable thing.
I took the hr meter out to make room for an oil press gauge....cold it's at 75 psi and hot it's at around 40-35. Also put in a temp gauge .... need a voltmeter now but a meter for a 24 V system is hard to find....anyway....ain't got another hole for it...ha. Never used a dozer before and find that this thing is the roughest riding machine I have ever been on. It will shake you apart. Tractor is bad, dozer is worse. I think the pyramid tracks may make it worse...is this the case? I can sure tell it gets smooth when I get into a soft area. Also, I am happy with fuel usage...seems to sip it.
thanks
Pete in MS

Rough ain't in it!!! I'm planning on installing a suspension seat ASAP...my 51 year old back isn't up to riding that bucking SOB for 8 hrs at a time.

Pete,
My temp gauge is DOA and needs to be fixed/replaced.What did you use for oil pressure & temp gauges?

RonG
06-09-2007, 05:35 AM
No small dozer to my knowledge has an active suspension on them like you would expect to find on the larger dozers.
You can expect a rough ride on the small dozers generally because of the shorter track frame and especially if the tracks are running loose and/or you have bad/missing bottom rollers.Ron G

rangerfreak
06-09-2007, 11:12 AM
http://ctocf.proboards54.com/index.cgi?board=bulldozers&action=display&thread=1179380425&page=1

this is a site THAT YOU CAN VIEW with some good info on the dozer and it also has service pictures and more check it out. BUT THERE IS ONE PROBLEM: you have to be a chinese tractor owner to be a member.:notworthy

kc5gxc
06-09-2007, 08:31 PM
Hey WDNewman. The tracks have slipped a few times when I had it revved up, but don't slip much at all.....when they do, they rip the ground up. It pushes the small trees ok....I have a lot of the yaupon holly....it's clumpy stuff....I hit it high and shove it over and the close side of the roots pop out...then back up and get the big flat section of roots all out. If you cut it off, it's harder to get the roots. Ditto for other trees. Don't run up to a big fat pine stump an nail it too hard.....you gonna stop fast...ha ha ha. Dynamite is good for those, I've heard...Seems like the 8' blade is really wide for this size machine, but guess it's extra good for leveling dirt with it. You sure can load it up in the scrub, tho.
RD Leo....I used mechanical oil and water gauges. I got them at a truck parts place. The water temp comes with a bushing that's 3/8" npt and you gotta have it because the probe and it's fitting must seat on the bushing. The bushing screwed rite into my thermostat housing where the cab heater option plug is. I switched to a temp gauge and probe from
http://www.agri-supply.com/ because the first one had a very high scale and didn't work well. The agri-supply one is for a Massey Ferg. tractor......but........it did not come with the bushing....and you gotta have the bushing for the probe to seal off on. It was $16. It fit rite in the original bushing that came with the first kit...luckily.
The oil press gauge kit from the truck place (or auto parts) is ok as is, but it did not have a metric adapter to install it. The Komatsu has a metric plug (looks like !/8" npt pipe, but is not. (this is located down by the dipstick on mine) I could only find this adapter in one place in a nearby town, and they had only one.......I was surprized to find the water temp bushing that is 3/8" npt screwed rite in the thermo housing.
Anyway, that's my story , and I'm sticking to it....ha ha.
Good luck
Pete in MS

rangerfreak
06-10-2007, 02:25 PM
After realizing that i had put too much oil in the engine i decided screw it,ill just drain all the oil out and replace it with new rotella d 15W40, have not tightened my tracks yet because i need to buy a grease gun will keep everybody up to date:usa

wdnewman
06-10-2007, 10:55 PM
Hey Rangerfreak!

If you drained and replaced all the oil before, just drain out a little bit! You don't need to replace ALL the oil! Just get the level right. Always check your all before using the machine, not after using it. BTW, my eldest son has been an engineer for Shell oil for the last seventeen years says to use NOTHING but Rotella T in any diesel engine. Some people say use only the 30 wt oil, but I can't verify that using the multi weight oil has any detrimental effect.

WD

rangerfreak
06-11-2007, 08:07 PM
Hey Rangerfreak!

If you drained and replaced all the oil before, just drain out a little bit! You don't need to replace ALL the oil! Just get the level right. Always check your all before using the machine, not after using it. BTW, my eldest son has been an engineer for Shell oil for the last seventeen years says to use NOTHING but Rotella T in any diesel engine. Some people say use only the 30 wt oil, but I can't verify that using the multi weight oil has any detrimental effect.

WD

ill do that

Brianls
06-11-2007, 10:30 PM
Dipstick locations (http://berryhillfarm.us/Dozer/scan0001.jpg).
Final drive oil level (http://berryhillfarm.us/Dozer/scan0004.jpg).
Track adjustment. (http://berryhillfarm.us/Dozer/scan0005.jpg)
Fluid specfications. (http://berryhillfarm.us/Dozer/scan0006.jpg).

Hope this helps some. Let me know if there's anything else I can do.

Now that you've let the cat out of the bag about having a parts manual... could you be kind enough to lookup the part number for the throttle cable. Mine must have gotten moisture in it and has froze up. The local (35 miles away) doesn't like helpping us "grey market" owners.

Thanks:)

Brian
Baby Dozer owner

Countryboy
06-11-2007, 10:36 PM
Welcome to HEF Brianls! :drinkup

Whats going on in Perry these days?

Brianls
06-11-2007, 10:42 PM
Welcome to HEF Brianls! :drinkup

Whats going on in Perry these days?

Not much. The Nat'l fair grounds is always so busy you can't go out to eat without a 30-60 minute wait. We NEED rain. and the dirt (clay) is as hard as concrete.:usa

Countryboy
06-11-2007, 10:48 PM
Not much. The Nat'l fair grounds is always so busy you can't go out to eat without a 30-60 minute wait. We NEED rain. and the dirt (clay) is as hard as concrete.:usa

I'm hearing ya on the rain. Been looking for it for a while now. :beatsme

I'm one of them Fair Ground people. :D I've been to the Buck-a-rama, Fish-a-rama and Turkey-rama for the last 15 years. Haven't missed one yet. :drinkup

Brianls
06-11-2007, 10:58 PM
I'm hearing ya on the rain. Been looking for it for a while now. :beatsme

I'm one of them Fair Ground people. :D I've been to the Buck-a-rama, Fish-a-rama and Turkey-rama for the last 15 years. Haven't missed one yet. :drinkup

Where in Jones County are you? Do you ever go to the Mossy Creek Barnyard Festival on Lake Joy Rd in Perry?

Countryboy
06-11-2007, 11:03 PM
Where in Jones County are you? Do you ever go to the Mossy Creek Barnyard Festival on Lake Joy Rd in Perry?

The Ol' Lady went last year with some friends, but I didn't. I don't recall ever going but I do plan on making it up there some time. When's the next one?

On Edit: I live right inside of Gray.

wdnewman
06-11-2007, 11:27 PM
Does anyone know of a website or location where we can find a listing of serial numbers indicating date of manufacture, machine type, etc? Could be a factor when shopping for a dozer.

WD:o

R Leo
06-11-2007, 11:35 PM
Now that you've let the cat out of the bag about having a parts manual... could you be kind enough to lookup the part number for the throttle cable. Mine must have gotten moisture in it and has froze up. The local (35 miles away) doesn't like helpping us "grey market" owners.

Thanks:)

Brian
Baby Dozer owner
I'd be happy to do it but the manual (a repair manual) is at the farm, 90 miles away. I'm going back on Wedensday. I'll look it up then....but, to be honest, I don't remember seeing part numbers in the thing.

kc5gxc
06-12-2007, 10:50 PM
Hi Bryan
The part No. for the throttle cable on a D20 is: 103-43-35270. This is for cable only. All else has it's own part No.
My lever assembly was broken, so I put a big truck throttle cable on it.
Good luck
Pete in MS

Brianls
06-12-2007, 10:58 PM
Hi Bryan
The part No. for the throttle cable on a D20 is: 103-43-35270. This is for cable only. All else has it's own part No.
My lever assembly was broken, so I put a big truck throttle cable on it.
Good luck
Pete in MS

Thanks for the PN. The lever on mine is still OK, I didn't try to over muscle it. I pulled the side cover and unbolted the linkage from the throttle valve and checked valve operation and all was good. Next I checked the lever system and after removing the cable from the ratchet assembly it checked good and the cable was FROZEN!!

Thanks for the help.

Brian
Baby Dozer owner:usa

This is a great forum.

rangerfreak
06-13-2007, 06:50 AM
do i have to unbolt a plate or anything under the under carrage to change the oil, where do i change it from

kc5gxc
06-13-2007, 09:44 PM
Hi Ranger
You gotta take the protection plate off under the oil drain. 2 bolts hold it on and it's about the size of a cracker box in length and width. It's important to keep it on when working in rough stuff to keep limbs out of there.
You can do it by crawling under the machine. I also have raised mine by trimming 2 crossties on one end and driving up on them to raise machine about 8". Makes it easier. There's about 9 qts of oil in there.
Good luck
Pete:usa

rangerfreak
06-14-2007, 02:14 PM
I want to take some time to say thank you everybody for your help this is a great forum

kc5gxc
06-18-2007, 08:52 PM
Hey RF
The protection plate for the oil drain has one bolt. The transmission screen area protection plate has 2 bolts.....this on my D21P-6 with powershift.
I had told you wrong before.
Pete in MS

rangerfreak
06-20-2007, 10:18 AM
thanks for the info.do we have any other komatsu dozer related questions, comments, or suggestion :usa

wdnewman
06-20-2007, 08:52 PM
Today I wrote a check for a D21P-7E with a little over 2000 hours on the meter. It has the joystick controls and was really sweet handling, and has NOT been repainted. All the specifications on the undercarriage showed 80% or better remaining, so I know it has been replaced within the last couple of hundred hours. The sprockets had new welded sections and also looked no older than a couple of hundred hours either. Found no rust or leaks, and am having the dealer weld on a FOPS with sweeps before he ships it to me. Anxious to get it, but will have to wait a week or so before it arrives.

:drinkup

Countryboy
06-20-2007, 09:19 PM
Congrats on the purchase. :drinkup

So it will be a week before we can see the pictures then....:confused: :D

wdnewman
06-21-2007, 09:19 AM
Countryboy,

Actually, I do have some pictures taken from the dealers website. Now all I have to do is find the "post attachments" button which is supposed to be here somewhere. Ah, there it is. Now I have to resize the photo. Maybe I can get this done a little later today.

WD

Countryboy
06-21-2007, 06:05 PM
Maybe I can get this done a little later today.

Shall be waiting.......:wink2

rangerfreak
06-21-2007, 08:41 PM
when it says adjust tracks to 13 mm does that mean 13 mm or slack in the tracks

machineman
06-21-2007, 08:52 PM
Anyone know what the bolt size is to attach the swap tracks on D20P-7? Mines missing a couple.

Thanks...

wdnewman
06-21-2007, 09:25 PM
Well guys,


Try as I might, I can't resize the photo to meet the 640 x 640 requirements.
It (The dozer) should be in within the week (with sweeps installed) and then I can take some photos, hopefully resize them and get them posted so you all can whoop and hollar.
I am having a hard time getting the source for a manual. Any manual. I ordered one from Manuals.US two weeks ago, but nothing has arrived and I can't get them to respond to any of my emails.
So...I am still looking for manuals and cross-references for filters. Any help out there?

WD

Cat420
06-21-2007, 09:36 PM
Email them to me at cat420(at)gmail.com and I'll resize and post them up for you. Or you could download the Microsoft ImageResizer Powertoy, it usually gets pictures small enough.

Cat420
06-21-2007, 09:51 PM
Here she is. Looks like a nice machine.

wdnewman
06-21-2007, 10:09 PM
Well, There it am!

Like I said before, the sweeps are yet to be put on. The dealer had five D20's and D21's ranging from 5's to 7's. This one was my favorite by far. He had another pyramid track unit (a D21P-6) that rode like a bronco. I never could figure out why, but the difference in the one I bought and it was like night and day. The D20 I tried could never stop grinding the gears. Probably because the clutch brake wasn't adjusted correctly, but I couldn't be sure. Also the clutch was slipping pretty badly, but then again it could be an adjustment problem. What really pulled me to this unit, other than the joysticks, was the strong engine, a smooth ride (? in comparison), great hydros, no rust, at least none hidden by paint. Still looking for a manual and a filter cross reference, though.

Thanks again Cat420.

WD

Countryboy
06-21-2007, 11:09 PM
Great looking machine there wdnewman. :drinkup

Thats one of the better looking ones that I have seen. Now we need some action shots after you get everything in order. :D

kc5gxc
06-21-2007, 11:35 PM
Hi WD
I got my manuals for a D21P-6 from here:
http://www.ssbtractor.com/
I got the complete set (3 manuals....cost about $187.
Talked to some fellow on the phone who was good, but can't remember his name. Manuals are pretty good, you just gotta convert everything from metric.....hope you got a calculator!

Got my hydraulic filter from Komatsu, as there are no after market filters for these machines. (hydraulic)...cost about $27, I think)

You can get fuel and engine oil filters from local parts place....here is WIX site: http://www.wixfilters.com/filterlookup/racing.asp

The fuel filter for mine is WIX 33393
The engine oil filter is WIX 51206
The parts place can check on your model or you can find on WIX site.
Good luck
Pete;)

wdnewman
06-22-2007, 07:35 AM
Hey, great info on the filters! Just what I was looking for. Still have had NO response from Manuals.US, so I am going to get in touch with SSB Tractor and see what they have. As soon as the dozer arrives, I'll put in some more pictures so you can see how the installation went on the sweeps.
:drinkup
Thanks again!

WD

rangerfreak
06-22-2007, 01:50 PM
Hello i was wondering if low sulfer fuel will hurt my dozer and do i need to switch to farm diesel if i can find it:)

R Leo
06-22-2007, 02:22 PM
Hello i was wondering if low sulfer fuel will hurt my dozer and do i need to switch to farm diesel if i can find it:)
Good question. Initially, it will depend on whether or not the tubing and seals that come in contact with fuel are made from natural rubber. If they are natural rubber, you will eventually experience leaks from the rubber failing due to contact with the volatiles in the ULSD. Replacing rubber seals and tubing with parts made of Viton will solve this problem.

Another issue is lost lubricity. Good 'ol #2 diesel utilized the sulphur as a lubricant and supposedly, ULSD contains additives to compensate for the lost lubricating qualities. I'm not convinced that is the truth so, an aftermarket additive such as Power Service which contains additional lubricant may be a good idea. Another alternative is biodiesel which has excellent and well documented lubricating properites. Sufficient lubrication can be achieved at 5% biodiesel concentration. I would not go to a higher percentage of biodiesel because it too can cause problems with natural rubber components. Additionally, biodiesel is a strong solvent and if used in high concentrations will start cleaning years of accumulated paraffins from fuel system components resulting in clogged filters and other problems.

I have some experience in alternate fuel use from approximately three years of running my Mercedes-Benz diesel automobiles on everything from waste fry oil to diesel to used engine oil to citronella-scented lamp oil. In that time, the absolute most trouble I've experienced with my fleet has been in the last 6 months since ULSD appeared in the local diesel pumps. The biggest issue is my 6 cylinder, diesel-powered S-class that has needed delivery valve seals and injector oveflow hoses replaced. Fortunately, I can do these things myself.

You can be sure that I'll be keeping a close eye on my dozer for fuel issues.

wdnewman
06-22-2007, 02:39 PM
Hi Rangerfreak,

I have heard that ultra low sulfur diesel fuel can cause seal leakage within the fuel delivery system, mainly in the "0" rings at the injectors or the seals at the fuel pump. It seems that the sulfur is a natural lubricant and when you don't have it in quantity within the fuel leaks can begin. I use exclusively "farm" diesel, which is untaxed in Mississippi and therefore over 20 cents per gallon cheaper. It is worth it to buy a skid tank and keep a supply on hand, or even an old 55 gallon drum with a hand pump works well. That is what I use. Here is a website that beats the subject of ULSD to death if you are really interested.

http://www.officialbiodiesel.com/news/uls_diesel.htm

WD

kc5gxc
06-22-2007, 09:23 PM
Hi WD and All
I was talking to the guy that sells the farm diesel here in Poplarville. I asked him if the farm stuff still had the good lubrication....he told me it's just road diesel with the dye in it. Same stuff .
He may not know what's going on, tho.....who knows?
Pete in Poplarville:D

wdnewman
06-22-2007, 10:50 PM
Hi WD and All
I was talking to the guy that sells the farm diesel here in Poplarville. I asked him if the farm stuff still had the good lubrication....he told me it's just road diesel with the dye in it. Same stuff .
He may not know what's going on, tho.....who knows?
Pete in Poplarville:D

Pete,

Let me check with my supplier here in Jackson. It is my belief that the diesel sold at the truck stops and the dyed farm diesel is NOT the ULSD being sold at the gas stations for automobiles. This could be entirely incorrect. I know for a fact that only a percentage of the diesel being produced at refineries is ULSD, so the high sulfur diesel is still being made. In either case, there is an additive that supposedly is added to ULSD to give it better lubrication, so the whole discussion may be just an discussion and nothing more. :rolleyes:

Jeff D.
06-22-2007, 10:58 PM
Pete,

Let me check with my supplier here in Jackson.WD, if you would, ask them about home heating oil too. I run that in my Bobcat and dozer with some Howes added, and haven't had any issues yet. I wondered if that was any different, or had more sulphur?:beatsme

Jeff

wdnewman
06-22-2007, 11:09 PM
Jeff,

I have heard of this being done up north. There is one problem. Nobody here in Mississippi sells or stocks heating oil! BUT....here is some information:

Off road Diesel #2 and Home Heating Oil / Fuel Oil # 2 apparently differ only in the tax applied at the time of sale.

Both are dyed red. They differ from standard Road Diesel #2 in that road tax has been applied, no red dye has been added, and there is a specification regarding ash and/or sulphur content. In extremely cold climates, Standard Road Diesel #2 may be blended with Diesel #1 or Kerosene K-1 to assist with gelling problems resulting from the cold weather. Similar blending may occur on home heating oil / fuel oil based on your geographic region, anticipated temperatures, and overall climate.

Home Heating Oil / Fuel Oil #4 and Home Heating Oil / Fuel Oil #6 have a higher BTU content. This is normally accomplished by adding much heavier petroleum oil distillate similar to automotive motor oil to the formulation. This allows a furnace to burn less fuel, for each BTU of heat produced, as well as often times reducing the cost per gallon of fuel. These types of Home Heating Oil / Fuel Oil should NOT be used in a Diesel Fueled Engine or Generator.

In times of shortage, Standard Road Diesel #2, Diesel #1, Kerosene, K-1, Jet Fuel, JP-1, Agricultural Diesel, Diesel #2, Home Heating Oil / Fuel Oil #4, or Home Heating Oil / Fuel Oil #6 may be shipped by fuel distribution companies and sold for use as home heating oil. There may also be times that, due to economic and other considerations, fuel distributors sell any or all of these products, or combinations and blends of the same, to home owners, as simply Home Heating Oil / Fuel Oil.

SUMMARY: Home Heating Oil / Fuel Oil #2 and Off Road / Agricultural Diesel #2 seem to be very similar products. More importantly, Home Heating Oil #2 is refers to a very specific product, and a very specific formulation, which, in many cases, may be a very similar product in terms of composition and formulation as Off-Road Agricultural Grade Diesel #2.

Hope that helps.

WD

Jeff D.
06-22-2007, 11:20 PM
Jeff,

I have heard of this being done up north. There is one problem. Nobody here in Mississippi sells or stocks heating oil! BUT....here is some information:....

.......Hope that helps.

WDYes that does. I'm burning #2 home fuel oil, but I'll cut it with #1 diesel fuel when it's cold out. Sounds like that is ok to do then.

Thank you Sir.

Jeff

wdnewman
06-23-2007, 07:39 AM
Jeff,


Glad to be of help. BTW, how much IS heating oil up there? I pay about $2.00 per gallon for Ag diesel here.

Just wondering

WD

Jeff D.
06-23-2007, 07:15 PM
Jeff,


Glad to be of help. BTW, how much IS heating oil up there? I pay about $2.00 per gallon for Ag diesel here.

Just wondering

WDThe last time I bought any was 3/13/07 @ $2.599/gal delivered.

I checked my recietes for the closest to that date I'd bought "on road", it was 3/14/07 @ $2.799/gal at the truckstop. Last Wends. I paid $2.859 for "on road".:(

So it's approx $.20 less + it's delivered. Not a huge savings, but some.

Jeff

wdnewman
06-23-2007, 10:26 PM
The last time I bought any was 3/13/07 @ $2.599/gal delivered.

I checked my recietes for the closest to that date I'd bought "on road", it was 3/14/07 @ $2.799/gal at the truckstop. Last Wends. I paid $2.859 for "on road".:(

So it's approx $.20 less + it's delivered. Not a huge savings, but some.

Jeff

Pete and anyone correct me if I'm wrong here, but the last Ag diesel I bought was a little over $2.00 a gallon, but no fed or state tax was charged, so it made it somewhere near a .75 cents per gallon savings. Well worth the special tank and pump!
NOW...can anyone tell me this: what time/hours usage does Komatsu specify for changing the different oils and filters in the D21P? Finally got a manual shipped but has not arrived yet and I was just wondering.

WD

kc5gxc
06-24-2007, 10:01 PM
Howdy
WD, here are some specs on filter changes, etc...

Initial 250 hrs (new machine)
Engine oil and filter
Fuel filter
Main clutch case....clean strainer and change oil (D-20)
Trans bevel gear case...(D-20)...change oil
Trans case (D 21)...Clean strainer and change oil
Trans bevel case (D-21) change oil
Hydraulic tank and filter....change filter and oil
Final drive...change oil
Engine valve clearance....check and adjust

500 hours:
Engine oil and filter
Fuel filter
Clean breather element
Clean radiator fins

1000 hrs
Clean strainers and change oil in trans (both 20 & 21)
Change oil in bevel gear case...21
Hydraulic filter and oil change
Check lube conditions on undercarriage components

500 hrs sounds like a mighty long spell before changing engine oil and filter. My Ford New Holland diesel tractor says every 100 hrs.
Oil used is type for diesel engines, not gas engines. I run 30 wt in mine. Think I should be using 40 since got a lot of hours on mine. (and it's getting really hot outside !!!) Normal proceedure is to let warm up before loading engine and also to idle a spell for a cool off before shutdown.

I don't remember what diesel costs (off road)....but I gotta go get some soon....I just use 2 plastic fuel tanks....5 gal size I think...
Know it ain't cheap.
Pete

rangerfreak
06-25-2007, 06:38 AM
great posts:D

wdnewman
06-25-2007, 07:57 AM
Pete,

500 hours seems long to me too, but with the new superfilters like WIX (cost four times as much, last twice as long), the new oils, etc, I can see where it would be possible, but I think I would be using only synthetic oil if I went that long with it. I believe I'll set my schedule up for 250 hours for motor oil/filter and do the rest at 1000 hours as scheduled. (By the way, I wonder how you "Check lube conditions on undercarriage components"!) Thanks for the good info. Keep a-clackin'.

WD

kc5gxc
06-26-2007, 09:55 PM
Hey WD and all....
To check undercarriage lube conditions, think they are refering to pulling plugs on track rollers and checking for presence of oil in 'em and also on the front idlers...(and top roller ) ..all the places where I put grease zerks......ha. I have pumped a little grease in mine, but some grade of oil goes in 'em. Book says contact Komatsu man to lube them.

kc5gxc
06-26-2007, 09:58 PM
PS:
I broke a hose fitting on mine today...think a limb got it. The hose on right angle cylinder. It was rusted real bad and weak. Saw oil dripping, but all was working ok.... Will get one made tomorrow in Poplarville.
Take Care
Pete

wdnewman
06-27-2007, 11:09 PM
Well, I got a phone call this morning at 7:00 AM informing me that my newly purchased D21P-7 had arrived in my driveway, and how did I plan to unload it? It was loaded on the rear of a long-haul flatbed sitting four feet off the ground. I informed the driver that it was to be unloaded in my pasture, as I didn't have any 1.ramps, 2.fork lifts, 3.cranes, or 4. any other way, to unload it.:beatsme
After much head scratching, backing up to embankments, stopping traffic,etc., I finally opted to call a flatbed wrecker which backed up to the flatbed trailer, transferred the dozer, drove to the above mentioned pasture and unloaded the machine. Would it have been easier for the dealer to ship on a low-boy gooseneck, or a lowboy with a ramp? Would it have been better for the dealer to have told me that I needed a way to unload the dozer when it arrived? Yep, sure would have. And it would have save me the $75 wrecker fee.:Banghead Ah well, finally got it!
During shipment the blade had been angled hard right to save width. Came off the trailer that way, and when I went to try it out, the blade stayed that way. No matter how I moved the stick, left/right tilt, up down, the blade stayed angeled hard right. What the...:confused: Worked around the place for a couple of hours...no change. Hard right. Finally called the dealer who turned me over to the mech, who asked me if I had a "T" handle on the blade operator or a standard handle. I told him I had a standard. "Is there a button on the top of the handle?" he asked. Nope, I said. "Huh", he said. " Let me let you talk to the salesman who loaded it". The salesman said " There is a button on the top of the blade lever that you push". No, I said, there isn't. "Oh", he said, " It don't LOOK like a button...It looks like part of the knob". He was right. Just push the top of the lever knob, and you can angle the blade.
Huh.
This is a GREAT little machine, and I am beginning to get the hang of it a little bit. The sweeps are imperative! GOT to have them if you are going into the woods. I am going to turn the exhaust around 90 degrees to stop limbs from grabbing... all fluids are fresh, all levels are full, and it even had a half tank of diesel when it arrived.
Life don't get no better!:drinkup

wdnewman
06-27-2007, 11:12 PM
Here it am.

Jeff D.
06-27-2007, 11:17 PM
Congrats on your new machine WD!! Sounds like you'll be having some fun now.:thumbsup

Where da picture is??:beatsme (with sweeps)

thom203
06-28-2007, 09:09 AM
I am new to this website and probably I am in the wrong area for posting. but the grey market equipment thread seems appropriate.

I have contacted many Hitachi dealers including the corparate office in Japan but, none have been able to help me ( most did not know Hitachi made a dozer).
I have also had several heavy equipment service people take a look at the unit at the dozer without sucess.

I am hoping that someone on the site will have knowledge or can provide additional leads on how to tighten the tracks on this dozer. Most people say that there should be grease fittings but no one thus far has been able to locate the adjustment fittings.

If anyone has a service manual,experience with this type of dozer or other documentation/information please contact me. Thank-you.

rangerfreak
06-28-2007, 12:39 PM
I am new to this website and probably I am in the wrong area for posting. but the grey market equipment thread seems appropriate.

I have contacted many Hitachi dealers including the corparate office in Japan but, none have been able to help me ( most did not know Hitachi made a dozer).
I have also had several heavy equipment service people take a look at the unit at the dozer without sucess.

I am hoping that someone on the site will have knowledge or can provide additional leads on how to tighten the tracks on this dozer. Most people say that there should be grease fittings but no one thus far has been able to locate the adjustment fittings.

If anyone has a service manual,experience with this type of dozer or other documentation/information please contact me. Thank-you.

it is a grey market dozer

Countryboy
06-28-2007, 07:04 PM
Welcome to HEF thom203! :drinkup

Can you give some more details on the piece of equipment you're talking about.....model number and such.

Pictures are good too. :thumbsup

kc5gxc
06-28-2007, 08:24 PM
Here it am.

Where it are?? Try again. I bet you are proud. When you figure out how to post pics, maybe you can tell me and I'll post a pic of mine....it ain't purty !
Mine has been rode hard and put up wet a lot (before I got it).
Congratulations !!!!!
Pete:D

Countryboy
06-28-2007, 08:31 PM
When you figure out how to post pics, maybe you can tell me and I'll post a pic of mine....

Here are a couple threads on posting pictures and resizing:

Posting Pictures (http://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/Forum/showthread.php?t=2284)
Resizing (http://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/Forum/showthread.php?t=1521&highlight=jpegcompress)

No excuses now.......post um up. :D

wdnewman
06-28-2007, 09:56 PM
I think this MIGHT do it. Ran it about six hours today. No problems at all. Other than the dog.

Lashlander
06-28-2007, 11:27 PM
Nice looking dozer. I worked for an outfit that had a D31P. It was a nice little machine but had electrical problems from day one.

wdnewman
06-29-2007, 06:05 PM
Thanks. BTW, I was stationed in Kodiak with the USN in 1961-1962. Would like to go back to see the old place, but probably never will. I'll bet it has really changed since then.

WD

kc5gxc
06-29-2007, 09:30 PM
Boy, that's a nice looking machine. That ROPS and sweeps are fine. Lights and all..... I got a lite switch on mine, but that's all that's left to the lites.
I ran mine today also. Found out I was working over a yellow jacket nest yesterday with it, but didn't know it.....saw them swarming around today when I was surveying the damage I did yesterday. I do not like to mess with those things. They inflict the worse pain of all stinging bees.
I am gonna try to post a pic of mine...my brother told me when I sent him a pic of it...."I hope it runs better than it looks"....ha ha....it runs good.
Pete

Wulf
06-29-2007, 09:41 PM
I am hoping that someone on the site will have knowledge or can provide additional leads on how to tighten the tracks on this dozer. Most people say that there should be grease fittings but no one thus far has been able to locate the adjustment fittings

If you could post a photo of the complete track frame and more around the idler area we could probably make some suggestions... I can't believe that it can be so different to any other unit that folks here have experience with :)

Wulf
06-29-2007, 09:49 PM
I worked for an outfit that had a D31P. It was a nice little machine but had electrical problems from day one.
How long ago was that Lashlander? On the older ones the electrics were pretty darned basic.

kc5gxc
06-29-2007, 09:50 PM
Here's mine....no indication in uploading pics (2) that they are here or not....no blue buttons, no red arrow over manage attachments and no green arrow for browsing.....wonder why it's different ?? Hope the pics are here...
Pete

kc5gxc
06-29-2007, 10:35 PM
Think I got it this time.
Pete

Lashlander
06-30-2007, 12:00 AM
Thanks. BTW, I was stationed in Kodiak with the USN in 1961-1962. Would like to go back to see the old place, but probably never will. I'll bet it has really changed since then.WD


I bet it has. Its surprises me how much its changed since I moved here.
Here's a pic of the Base and Womens Bay. I took this on a flight home from King Cove a year or so ago.



How long ago was that Lashlander? On the older ones the electrics were pretty darned basic.

It was an 85 model. The charging system was the main problem. We put several alternators on it and they wouldn't last. We had the Dealer work on it and they got it going for a while but it quit. I spent all summer either parking it next to another machine so I could jump it in the morning or an electrical outlet so I could charge it.

wdnewman
06-30-2007, 11:43 PM
Hey Lashlander,

Well, back then we called it "Old Womans Bay", and the mountain to the left was called "Old Womans Mountain", for what reason, who knows and hey, who cares. I can locate the exact position of my old barracks in the picture you sent. If you look on the right side of the bay at the docked ship (about the middle of the picture) and go up the hill to your right about two hundred yards, well, thats where I was for a year of my young, virile life. You probably live in town which probably has social functions, females and other things which we did not have.
As far as electrical problems: My poor ole thang don't have much more than a battery (24 volt dammit), headlights, and a starter system, so can't too much go wrong.

Let me know how it goes up there.

WD

wdnewman
06-30-2007, 11:58 PM
Pete,

Don't listen to your brother. If I listened to mine, I would still be in bed sucking my thumb. There ain't nothing wrong with your dozer. Love the sweeps, but hey where did you get that seat with a headrest? Super. I am thinking about getting a sound system and a wet bar installed. :drinkup
But really,I am looking for a seatbelt. Thats a musthave, and if any of you guys know where I can get one, please let me know. I have an operators manual for a -6 series I will swap even for a seatbelt. If you don't have a seatbelt, I still have an owners manual for any of you -6 owners that need one. Glad to help out if I can.

WD

Lashlander
07-01-2007, 12:39 AM
Hey Lashlander,

Well, back then we called it "Old Womans Bay", and the mountain to the left was called "Old Womans Mountain", for what reason, who knows and hey, who cares. I can locate the exact position of my old barracks in the picture you sent. If you look on the right side of the bay at the docked ship (about the middle of the picture) and go up the hill to your right about two hundred yards.WD

Its still called Old Womans Mountain. The reason is at a certain spot out in Chiniak Bay it looks like an old women laying on her back. I live out in Bells Flats at the head of Womens Bay. Thats cool you can spot your old stomping grounds. Everyone needs a trip down memory lane once in a while.

wdnewman
07-03-2007, 09:02 PM
Guys,

This is a little information about finding filters for the D20-D21 that I ran into with the local NAPA dealer. They have a good website online that cross-references filters, but the ones that kept showing up had no relation to what I needed on my D21P-7. Then I noticed that they had an area for the engine serial numbers. When I put that in, I hit the jackpot and was able to buy the fuel, oil and air filters (both inner and outer) at the local NAPA store. Not cheap, mind you, but available. They said they can do hoses for me too if and when I need one, but I'll test that out when the need arises.
Funny thing happened changing out the fuel filter. I had both side panels off of course, but just couldn't work a filter wrench around the bottom of the fuel filter. The left side lift cylinder was in the way. No matter what I did, no matter how many elbows I attached to the socket, just wouldn't work. As I gave up on the stupid design engineers in Japan, and was practicing expanding my English, my wife walked up behind me and said; "Wouldn't you have more room if you let the blade down?" :Pointhead
Sure I would. I would have lots more room. All I needed to change out the fuel filter, in fact.

kc5gxc
07-03-2007, 09:49 PM
I had saved the seat from a small Mercury car, about 1986. It was in the way and the dozer seat needed work....$150 estimate for recovering. That's why the car seat is there...ha ha. Heck, it's real comfortable.
No seatbelt either and I can't find the old ones from the car...you can get some from a junkyard, no doubt.
I ran my old dozer hard today. I am clearing some jungle-like places here and it is hard work for the machine. It is holding together, tho....boy, limbs sure like to get tangled in the blade, etc....and the tracks eat about as many limbs and roots as I shove out.....Those things really grab everything and rip it to shreds, after swinging them by the cab...gotta dodge (if you see them coming). I bent the grille in today, it was bent when I got it and I fixed it...now gotta straighten it again.
Oak trees sure have strong roots....maples and bay come down easy (small trees)....a big pine stump that's fat is a no-no!!!
A big thicket of muscadine vines gave me fits....they were hung up on all parts and in the tracks.
Got 'er done, tho.
Happy 4 th.
Pete

bulduzer
07-04-2007, 04:44 PM
Welcome aboard rangerfreak:drinkup , I'm not a Komatsu expert:o but there are a few guys here that do qualify. So fire away and someone will probly answer all your questions.

Can someone tell me if there is any adjustment to the drive & steering clutches on a d-21-p 6? The left brake hung up on my dozer and before i freed it, it pulled good. now that the brake is free, the left side is not pulling, we're just kinda goin round in a big circle

Countryboy
07-04-2007, 07:53 PM
Welcome to HEF bulduzer! :drinkup

wdnewman
07-05-2007, 10:12 PM
Hey Pete and all you other guys.

Found an easy seat belt source. Go to: http://www.seatbeltsplus.com/
Mine was shipped today, and total cost was about $20.00. The D20-21-7 and I think the 6 series too, has mounting holes tapped on either side and to the rear of the drivers seat. Easy installation, and a must-have according to a dozer driver I know who has about 30 years experience. Gets a little bouncy out there sometimes.
Like Pete, I am busy clearing some good ole southern brush. Lots of Chinese Privit, Sweet Gum, Pine and Elm trees. No problem with any of those types at or under 10" diameter. It is amazing how much work can get done in such a short time, especially compared to using a chain saw and box blade! Not too good yet at floating though. I still am going to have to use a box blade to get 'er completely smooth.
Couldn't do without the sweeps. No way. Even with them I've still had some visitors up there with me, but they keep out most of the limbs. I highly recommend the the D21 transmission. It saves lots of shifting, but you gotta remember to come to a complete halt before changing directions.
I'm sorry I had to wait until I was sixty five to get this thing. :D

WD

Wulf
07-07-2007, 02:42 AM
Can someone tell me if there is any adjustment to the drive & steering clutches on a d-21-p 6? The left brake hung up on my dozer and before i freed it, it pulled good. now that the brake is free, the left side is not pulling, we're just kinda goin round in a big circle

bulduzer, the multi-disc clutch shouldn't need any adjustment but the brake is band type and should be adjusted. If you lost drive on one side you should make sure the brakes are free and that there is no dormant clutch release pressure.

On these dozers there has often been confusion over whether the steering clutches are wet or dry, some are wet and some are not and folks can fill them up inadvertently or oil can transfer into the clutch compartment. If everything checks out OK in that regard the steering clutch may just be slipping or be more seriously damaged or possibly the teeth are gone on the discs/plates. If that happens you maybe need to check the run out between the pinion and bevel gear flanges.

kc5gxc
07-07-2007, 09:52 PM
Howdy all.....WD, you got 3 years on me...that chainsaw was killing me...dozer gets the roots too, and that's a lot better. Still need to fire up the saw on some of the bigger downed trees, so I can move them.
When my dozer is cold, I have a little hesitation when I first shift to F or R.
After warmed up, I have very slight hesitation when going from low speed to high speed in forward or reverse, but very slight. Does your newer one do that, WD?
I have all new fluids in mine. Changed all of it in all sections. It takes a lot of oil...hate to see what a big machine takes.
I thought I had steering problems as mine is rather hard to steer.
I hooked a big chain to a really big oak stump and while pulling, I had power steering ! That told me the clutch releases were working and it pulled in a straight line, so I knew the clutches were hanging in there. I use the brakes a lot to turn, guess that's the way it works and I hope they hold up.
All I know about 'em is what I read here and in the manuals....never been on one before I bought this one. (Except a bigger Case that the tracks were coming off when I test drove it!!!)
Hey WD, I got the kinds of trees you have except elm.....don't know that one....and you didn't mention yaupon holly. This is the main pain here. It grows in big thickets and has a big, shallow root mass. I have to shove it over, pop the root edge up, then backup and get under the root edge to shove it out. It makes little red berry, hangs up on everything and burns with a crackling sound. It gets hung in the tracks and anywhere else it touches. Birds spread the seeds and they sprout happily. Glyphosate will kill it after 10-12 applications, if I'm lucky. (small plants) I need to buy a chemical to kill it and also small Chinese tallow trees, as glyphosate won't do much to them, either.
Pete in Poplarville, MS

wdnewman
07-08-2007, 07:57 AM
Hey Pete,

What is it about two old guys in their sixties getting their first bulldozer?
Like you, this is my first one, and I am using it for exactly the same thing you are using yours for. About that hesitation: Yep, I get it too, just about exactly as you described it. I think it might be the nature of the beast, and I think that it is probably normal doing that. As for as the steering, I don't know. I drove three D21-6 models that had lever steering, and all of them were hard to steer (to me). I got the joystick control steering, and man, it is great. I can't figure out how you can steer with the levers and operate the blade at the same time with less than four arms. Takes practice. Also like you, all I know is what I read in manuals and have learned from using it around the place. I looked at a Case 450c, two JD 450's and a Mitsubishi before I decided on Komatsu. The Case and the JD's were completely worn out, and I mean less than zero time left in the undercarriage. To buy them and get them in working order (that you could depend on) would have cost in the 30 grand range. I couldn't locate a dealer or a parts house for the Mitsubishi, so I let that one go. Glad I got what I got, let me tell you.
I think what you are calling Yaupon Holly is very close to what I was told was Chinese Privet. You painted a perfect picture of it in your description, and I've got it all over the place. They are not quite the same, as the Chinese Privet has green berries which the birds spread, and everyone they drop sprouts! Stuff grows pretty tall too. I attach a picture.

Keep a'clackin'.

WD

kc5gxc
07-08-2007, 08:05 PM
Howdy all.....WD, that's what I call privet hedge. It is a pest. It grows about like the yaupon holly and has a wide root clump also. Only good thing about it is that it's smooth and doesn't hang up on stuff too bad. We had some here about a foot in diameter next to the house. Took me and my brother 2 days to cut that bunch down. I read a story somewhere on the net about an old farmer talking to someone....he was asked if he remembered any of the mistakes he made in life.....he said something to the effect...."well, one comes to mind. Long time ago cousin Floyd called me about some of this hedge he had got and planted....it was really nice and he told me I could have some to plant around the house. I went and dug up a bunch and planted 'em all around the place. The name of this plant was Chinese Privet, and nobody knew much about it............then...."....ha ha ha....that was funny.
I was on the way up to Magee one time and stopped to eat and look at somem plants at this nursery. The lady had yaupon holly in pots. Think about $5 a pot. I told her we were rich...all she had to do was come here and dig up all she wanted and cut me in....ha ha ha ha...Told her she better not let any of it out of the pot....ha.....but the berries will get spread.
I will try to take a pix of this stuff and post it.
Take care, Pete

rangerfreak
07-08-2007, 10:19 PM
any questions related to the dozer

wdnewman
07-08-2007, 10:24 PM
Well Pete, I was born in Magee, and I guess those people can try to sell each other anything!
You mentioned awhile back that you busted a hose. How did you go about getting that replaced?

WD

kc5gxc
07-09-2007, 09:21 AM
I actually broke the fitting on the end of the hose, where it hooks to a block on the U frame behind the blade.
It was very rusty and weak......I took it to a truck parts place that makes hoses. The fittings are all metric, but they happened to have some on hand. I had the old one with me, of course. They made up the hose and all fit fine.
It was about 4' long. Think about $40.
The metric fittings are the problem. Just lucky they had 'em.
Everything on the dozer is metric.(to my knowledge)
Pete

kc5gxc
07-09-2007, 09:12 PM
Howdy
Here are a couple pics of yaupon. This stuff has green berries on it now, but in the winter, they will be red. Some people have a smaller variety planted as a yard plant. This paticular stuff here grows over 20' high in a clump and pushes over with a large, flat root mass exposed. (shallow roots)
It can take over a place. I have areas I cannot walk thru because of it. It hangs up on others when cut or pushed and will not fall to the ground. It is very hard to deal with .... need a bigger dozer really, to attack it.
Pete

wdnewman
08-05-2007, 10:15 PM
Guys,

I am getting a lot of squealing and grinding sounds from the undercarriage of my D21P-7. About twenty hours or so ago I tightened the tracks up to the specs as written in the manual. Within the last ten hours or so, my wife says that the tracks are making more noise than they used to, and most of the noise seems to be coming from the sprocket area, lots of creaking etc. Is this normal for this dozer, or am I overlooking something? According to the specifications on the tracks I have less than 20% wear on the pins and sprocket. Advise is appreciated.
:confused:

WD

kc5gxc
08-06-2007, 11:12 PM
Howdy WD and Group
I have my tracks tightened to 1 1/2" slack....which is more than specified (not much as I think it works out to 1" to 1 1/4" if I read it right).
The tracks creak and moan, but no popping at the sprocket as it did when real loose. I have them much tighter than the guy I bought it from ran them.
He did not have a manual.
I ran the heck out of it today as I am working up burn piles and burning.
It was a bit hot for that at 97 degrees, but the old dozer did fine. I'm the one that got hot...ha ha.
From what I can gather, they are too loose if you get the popping of the sprocket on the chain when turning, rough work...etc......seems like most like to run 'em kinda loose, but I like to stick pretty close to the manual. (it's in there for a reason)
Good luck, Pete

RonG
08-07-2007, 06:52 AM
Tracks that are too tight will be loud.I am not saying that you don't have other problems but the first thing to look for when your tracks are loud is adjustment problems and since you just did yours I would investigate that possibility.Feeling the front idler bearings with your hand should tell you if they are running too warm which would mean that they have too much tension on them.Run the dozer back and forth without touching the steering brakes or clutches or the foot brake and let it roll to rest before you measure the tension.The dozer should roll easily without power to the tracks on a small incline and should not pull to either side when walking a straight line on hard ground.Ron G

wdnewman
08-07-2007, 08:53 AM
Thanks Pete and Ron. I have set the adjustment to 1 1/4" exactly according to the manual. I will check the heat on the front idler bearing just to verify that over tightening is not the problem. Probably the adjustment did cause a change in the sound which is what I am noticing. Nope, no sprocket popping, thankfully. The info on how to measure tension is very welcome Ron, and thats the first thing I'll check today. IF I do any dozer work. It is forecasted to be 98 degrees today, and while the dozer can handle it, the old man has a problem.

rangerfreak
10-03-2007, 06:32 PM
striped the bolts onthe the plate that cover the grease fitting that tightens the tracks. any ideas on how to get these bolts out.

R Leo
10-03-2007, 06:40 PM
striped the bolts onthe the plate that cover the grease fitting that tightens the tracks. any ideas on how to get these bolts out.
The threads must be rusted out...use a grinder or cut-off wheel on a grinder to remove the bolt head(s) and then you can remove the cover. Try using Kroil, PB Blaster or the penetrating oil of your choice to free-up the threads, then drill for an easyout and remove.

Good luck.

R Leo
10-03-2007, 06:47 PM
Anyone pull the plates on their Japanese equipment and find um, Japanese?

This says:
Band Brake
Steering Clutch

It's written in katakana, the phonetic symbols the Japanese use to sound out non-Japanese words/sounds.

The date at the top (in European format yy/mm/dd) interestingly, is based on the current Emperor's reign which started in 1988...thus 04/11/17 is the fourth year (1992), Novermber, 17th. My dozer is a D20P6 and I believe that -6 units were an early '90s model.

This is the plate that covers the brake adjustment and steering valve/clutches.

kc5gxc
10-03-2007, 08:19 PM
Howdy
My D21 has no plates covering the track adjustment fitting.....somebody lost them long ago.
That plate is interesting. Good to know that you can decipher their writing....
R Leo, how hard is it to get at that plate?....one for each side?
I changed the rear left track roller today.....the rear ones are the hardest becuz of the guard. Only remove outer guard and use torch to cut the part on the other one in the way of removing the roller once loose....can't understand why they built it like they did, but it's thin metal and easy to cut out. Had to heat bolts on outer guard and tap a lot to get 'em loose.
After this, I found 4 other rollers bad.....got 'em on order.
ps: had to go buy a 12 ton bottle jack to jack up the rear to work on tracks.
I know of a site with pics on a complete track roller job if anyone needs to check it out...on the Chinese tractor site.
Pete

wdnewman
10-03-2007, 10:20 PM
Are you talking about the access doors to the grease fittings or the entire covers?
The access doors have one captive bolt which doesn't come all the way out, and just seem to spin. A screwdriver could be used to pry up the door once the bolt is backed off. Each of the entire plates has four bolts, two outside and two inside (underneath the dozer). At least this is the way it works on the D21P-7 I've got. If it doesn't work that way with yours, the old grind off is the only method.
Good Luck.

WD

R Leo
10-03-2007, 10:27 PM
That plate is interesting. Good to know that you can decipher their writing....
Actually, the day job is at a Japanese company. I had a friend explain it to me.

R Leo, how hard is it to get at that plate?....one for each side?
This cover is the one on the back of the dozer, sitting at an angle under the batteries.

I know of a site with pics on a complete track roller job if anyone needs to check it out...on the Chinese tractor site.
Pete
Post that link!!!!

kc5gxc
10-04-2007, 07:07 PM
Hey RLeo....here's the link. The web site is for folks owning Chinese made tractors. This fellow owns one, and also bought a Komatsu dozer....he has done all the things to it himself....must be a real handy guy.....

http://ctocf.proboards54.com/index.cgi?board=bulldozers&action=display&thread=1179380425&page=1

Lots of pages....towards the last is the info on rollers.....great read on all the things he has done, and very informative on the dozer.
Pete in MS

rangerfreak
10-07-2007, 02:00 PM
what is the best tool to get striped bolts out besides drilling:Banghead

R Leo
10-07-2007, 07:40 PM
what is the best tool to get striped bolts out besides drilling:Banghead


An EDM tool might work but you aren't gonna find one at Harbor Fright.

Have you tried alternately heating it and soaking it in PB Blaster?

Orchard Ex
10-07-2007, 08:02 PM
Depending on how much of the bolt/head is left to grab the craftsman removers have worked well for me.

rangerfreak
10-09-2007, 03:54 PM
this may seem like a stupid question what size mm are the bolts that are on the track tighting cover that is on each side (there are 4 bolts on each side):Banghead of the dozer , but i am asking it because i do not have my dozer on hand to check it myself.

R Leo
10-10-2007, 08:57 AM
I'm no help, mine's 90 miles from here.

Brianls
10-10-2007, 05:46 PM
what is the best tool to get striped bolts out besides drilling:Banghead

I use a reverse spinning drill bit and most of the time it comes right out. If I drill all the way through the bolt and it's still stuck,:bash I now have a good hole for my E-Z out.

Good luck.

rangerfreak
10-11-2007, 09:07 PM
need to know bolt size and also, how do i use the #13 in the craftsman bolt-out kit it just seems to be a hollow cylinder.

Digger145
10-16-2007, 08:31 AM
Hi all,
I'm new here and have to get my three posts in, before I can start a new thread. I'm not hijacking this one really... ;)

My question is regarding a Mitsubishi BD2G, which is very similar to a Komatsu D21A.

The question: Are these little guys meant to have master pins in the tracks?
If not, can you knock a pin out anywhere with a "gas axe" and a sledgehammer? I need to drop a link you see, to keep the tracks working a bit longer.

Thanks for any and all help.

Countryboy
10-16-2007, 07:40 PM
Welcome to HEF Digger145! :drinkup

Digger145
10-16-2007, 08:53 PM
Welcome to HEF Digger145! :drinkup

Thanks :) It looks like a good place to be a member.

and right back at ya :drinkup
Now, it we just had a pack of cards....

John White
10-24-2007, 06:49 PM
Digger. You asked if a Mitsubishi dozer should have a master link. I have a BD2J and it does have a master link. Examine each pin closely and one should have a dimple in it.

Countryboy
10-24-2007, 07:55 PM
Welcome to HEF John White! :drinkup

Digger145
10-25-2007, 02:14 AM
Digger. You asked if a Mitsubishi dozer should have a master link. I have a BD2J and it does have a master link. Examine each pin closely and one should have a dimple in it.

Thanks John.
There are a few in there with a dimple, but no lock bolt on the other side. Are they a press fit or does yours have a lock bolt / pin holding the master pin in place?

I thought the dimple may have been just where it was centered in the lathe?!?

I'm going to have to do something with it very soon, as there is work waiting for it. Any help would be great. :)

John White
10-25-2007, 09:20 PM
Digger, Its strange that yours would have more than one master link. There is no clip or pin holding it in. I'll try to give you the proper procedure for removing it but I am sure some one can give their two cents worth too. Here is the way I have always removed track pins. Run the dozer till the master pin is on the rear sprocket and pointed down at the floor. Put a large piece of steel (heavey, I have a piece of old rail road track) lay it close as you can get to the pin, cut a 4x4 or 2 2x4 nailed together, cut it to length so it will just reach the other sprocket on the other side. I cut mine about 1/2" short so I can drive wedges in it and keep it tight. Soak your pin down with pennetrating oil, take a medium size sedge hammer, then a punch just slightly smaller than the pin. ( got a old torsion bar off a car, as it is hardned and will not mushroom, about 1ft long, then get you a piece of 2x4 about 3ft long, bore a hole through it so bar will just fit. Have a helper hold the board, with the punch pin in it and then whack it hard with the sedge. Be sure and wear safety glasses. Usually this method will work, a few of them I have to apply a little heat. If for some reason a regular pin has been taken out and a master pin has been installed. I dont think you can still get it apart. So you have to make sure you take out the master link pin. I understand that when you take the tracks off and if you take it to a track press, and if you have one pin in the middle, that they have to start at the master link and work back. (thats what the track shop told me) I am sure others ,(maybe a track shop can give you better directions) The purpose of the large steel suupport in the back is so you will not spread the link and bend it causing it to jam, and supports sprocket and other components so alot of shock is not transmitted to them. Hope this helps.

GaryKelley
10-26-2007, 10:33 AM
I just picked up a D20A-7. the tracks are brittle and worn out..I have knocked off 5 steel guides on the right side so far..not sure how many more to go before I am dead in the water...I'd like to get both steel tracks AND some more rubber tracks..anybody know of an outlet somewhere WEST of the Mississippi River for such a thing?

OneWelder
10-26-2007, 02:15 PM
Digger
Price out the master pin from a track shop, generally the pressed in style is not much money. If that is the case ,take an arc piercing rod ( or torch) cut a hole in from dimple as deep as you ( try for thickness of link ) as soon as you stop cutting , throw a cup of cold water in the hole- this will shrink the end of pin when it cools down / A lot of chains will still require more heat to remove pin
You have to do both ends of pin.
I have seen tracks where every pin had a dimple- The master bushing is shorter than the rest. it does not interlock in the chain. Quite often on badly worn tracks it will separate more there

John White
10-26-2007, 08:20 PM
I just picked up a D20A-7. the tracks are brittle and worn out..I have knocked off 5 steel guides on the right side so far..not sure how many more to go before I am dead in the water...I'd like to get both steel tracks AND some more rubber tracks..anybody know of an outlet somewhere WEST of the Mississippi River for such a thing?

Gary I would think that a Komatsu dealer would be able to get the guides for you. There is a fellow who advertises on E-bay that sells complete track assys. They are not cheap. McLaran makes after market rubber tracks, along with other mfg. If you can find a copy of "Heavy Equipment Trader" (usually sold at convince stores) often you will find suppliers of rubber tracks. Parts are much eaiser to find for the Komatsu than the Mitsbushi.

Countryboy
10-28-2007, 07:13 PM
Welcome to HEF GaryKelley! :drinkup

mikek
10-30-2007, 02:00 AM
ok guys Newbie here.

found this 'hall of wisdom' while searching for info on my new2me Komatsu D21-5.

Looks like I am going to have to rebuild/reseal the track tension cylinder on the rightside of my dozer.

does anyone here have an expoded diagram of this cyl. and can anyone recommend a 'good' parts supplier.

TIA,

Mike Kelly
Collettsville, NC

Countryboy
10-30-2007, 02:08 AM
Welcome to HEF mikek! :drinkup

Twisted
10-30-2007, 08:47 AM
Been watching and learning for a few months now I have a reason to post. Not sure if this is the correct place but I need posts to make my own thread.
I just purchased a D65P-8 doser & was wondering what the recommended fluids are for the transmission and finals. I ordered a service manual for it but that may take a while to get here. I am obviously excited to give it a try buy don't want to make any uneducated, expensive mistakes.
I am excited to be part of this forum. Thanks in advance.

R Leo
10-30-2007, 09:56 AM
ok guys Newbie here.

found this 'hall of wisdom' while searching for info on my new2me Komatsu D21-5.

Looks like I am going to have to rebuild/reseal the track tension cylinder on the rightside of my dozer.

does anyone here have an expoded diagram of this cyl. and can anyone recommend a 'good' parts supplier.

TIA,

Mike Kelly
Collettsville, NC
Mike,
I have the big maintenace manual for the D20...I'm pretty sure the track cylinders are the same in both the '20 and '21 and the -5 and -6.

Unfortunately, that manual is at the farm and I won't be out there until the 2nd weekend in Nov. But, I will scan those pages on the tensioner for you and post them when I have the manual in hand.

4x4ford
10-30-2007, 11:01 AM
was told this dozer was the same as the small mitsibushi dozers was wondering if any one could give me a place for parts as the boss was using it and loss the piece that holds the blade to the c frame and it has a 6 way blade on it thanks

Wulf
10-30-2007, 04:07 PM
I just purchased a D65P-8 doser & was wondering what the recommended fluids are for the transmission and finals

You should be able to discuss this with your dealer but I think generally that type of product requires SAE 30W engine oil in the transmission/steering and final drives.

Don't use multigrade engine oils as clutch or brake disc damage may result.

Countryboy
10-30-2007, 07:44 PM
Welcome to HEF Twisted! :drinkup

greywynd
10-30-2007, 08:45 PM
You should be able to discuss this with your dealer but I think generally that type of product requires SAE 30W engine oil in the transmission/steering and final drives.

Don't use multigrade engine oils as clutch or brake disc damage may result.

This seems to be fairly common, the straight 30W oil in final drives. Are there any/many exceptions to this?

Twisted
10-31-2007, 08:06 AM
The dealer said to use 30wt in the finals, transmission, and steer case. Unless I was going to run it in the winter then I should have 10wt in the tranny.

What is the problem with the multigrade fluids? What are they lacking that makes them unsuitable?

Wulf
10-31-2007, 08:10 PM
The dealer said to use 30wt in the finals, transmission, and steer case. Unless I was going to run it in the winter then I should have 10wt in the tranny.

What is the problem with the multigrade fluids? What are they lacking that makes them unsuitable?


Twisted... Maybe an oil expert could explain it better but the way I understand it is that the mulitigrades contained friction modifiers to altered the oils viscosity with temperature.

In a transmission the additives could cause damage to the clutch disc friction material or allow slippage and burning of the material if the transmission clutch or steering/brake don't engage when they are supposed to.

R Leo
10-31-2007, 09:37 PM
I'm also curious about the taboo of using multi-vis oils in wet clutches.

Multi-vis oils simply have polymer viscosity modifiers to help maintain more consistent viscosity throughout their operating temp range. I find it really hard to believe that the wet clutch or final drive on a dozer could be any harder (temperature-wise) on oil than a turbocharger on an engine when it's getting worked really hard. Lots of cars with turbos have run lots of miles on multi-vis oil w/o a problem...I know, I have three with >300K miles on each that have been running Rotella 15W-40 as long as I've had them.

On the D20 Komatsu, the steering clutches and brakes are dry; only the main clutch is wet.

Wulf
10-31-2007, 10:14 PM
I'm also curious about the taboo of using multi-vis oils in wet clutches.

On the D20 Komatsu, the steering clutches and brakes are dry; only the main clutch is wet.

R Leo, the thread got sidetracked with reference to a D65-8 dozer which has a powershift transmission close coupled to a wet steering clutch and brake housing.

The issue was the influence of the slippery friction modifiers on the multi-disc clutches. The clutches and gear train have to be lubricated but also resist slippage.

Final drives are not really an issue as all the oil really has to do is keep the loaded gears separated and the bearings lubricated through splash lubrication.

John White
11-01-2007, 08:27 PM
was told this dozer was the same as the small mitsibushi dozers was wondering if any one could give me a place for parts as the boss was using it and loss the piece that holds the blade to the c frame and it has a 6 way blade on it thanks

Call 706-634-3355 Some fellow in Ga. says he has a supplier in Japan. Parts are not going to be cheap. To my knowledge there is no supplier or distribution of parts in US. I purchased a Mitsubishi BD2J, parts supposidely can be purchased from Rhine Equip in Wash. If you need their # contact me.

R Leo
11-01-2007, 09:49 PM
Call 706-634-3355 Some fellow in Ga. says he has a supplier in Japan. Parts are not going to be cheap. To my knowledge there is no supplier or distribution of parts in US. I purchased a Mitsubishi BD2J, parts supposidely can be purchased from Rhine Equip in Wash. If you need their # contact me.



You should go ahead and post Rhine's number here so that others have access to it.

John White
11-03-2007, 05:46 AM
You should go ahead and post Rhine's number here so that others have access to it. Rine Eqpt. phone 1-800-536-3335

4x4ford
11-04-2007, 10:23 AM
thanks ill let him know the number

Oversized2
11-04-2007, 09:21 PM
Trying out a used D21-P before purchasing. There are 3 red lights on the instrument panel that the symbols are not ledgable. Could some one tell what they are?

Tahnks, Bud

Countryboy
11-04-2007, 09:23 PM
Welcome to HEF Oversized2! :drinkup

dumptrucker
11-04-2007, 10:51 PM
I believe they are p-brake,oil pressure , and alternator.

Oversized2
11-04-2007, 11:03 PM
Is that right to left, or left to right.

dumptrucker
11-05-2007, 05:02 AM
Honestly, I don't remember the order that it was in. Sorry.

Wulf
11-05-2007, 07:36 AM
I believe they are p-brake,oil pressure , and alternator.

Oversized2... maybe you can confirm which model it is e.g. D21P-? because on the -7 they are:
L: Charge Lamp
Centre: Engine Oil Pressure
R: Air Filter restriction

Orchard Ex
11-05-2007, 06:53 PM
Oversized2... maybe you can confirm which model it is e.g. D21P-? because on the -7 they are:
L: Charge Lamp
Centre: Engine Oil Pressure
R: Air Filter restriction

I have a D20-6 and mine are:
L - Alt
M - OP
R - Low Fuel

You can pop them out pretty easily and hold them up to the light to see the legends. I'd do it one at a time though...;)

mikek
11-07-2007, 12:20 AM
Mike,
I have the big maintenace manual for the D20...I'm pretty sure the track cylinders are the same in both the '20 and '21 and the -5 and -6.

Unfortunately, that manual is at the farm and I won't be out there until the 2nd weekend in Nov. But, I will scan those pages on the tensioner for you and post them when I have the manual in hand.

R Leo, thanks!!!

I located the closest Komatsu dealer and will have a packing kit, seals and o-rings by the end of the week- $45 for parts.

talked to shop guy about the cylinder, hardest part of this job will be removing/replacing the cylinder, actual resealing is piece of cake (according to Doug in the shop) once cylinder is in hand. He was not sure if I can get it off the tractor without 'breaking' the track to gain clearance to lift out the fork that goes to front idler. We shall see........

Mikek

kc5gxc
11-07-2007, 07:32 PM
Hey Mike
I have heard that the spring is loaded, and will get you if you don't watch out.......did the shop guy say anything about it???
In other words, I think it's pre compressed somehow. Somewhere I have read that.
My springs are both broken, but still hold the tracks pretty tight....I may have to work on them soon.
Good luck and take care
PS: I got a 21P-6.....older one.
Pete

mikek
11-08-2007, 12:16 AM
took about 3 hrs to get the tensioning cylinder off the tractor, definately would have been easier with the tracks out of the way. dunno if I will be able to get the cyl. back in position with the tracks in place.

the spring carriage is under heavy spring tension but you absolutely DO NOT remove the 4 bolts that hold the spring captive in the carriage.

ran out of daylight before I got the cylinder/piston/seals dissasembled, will get back to it tomorrow. I got the packing kit, wear rings, and dust seal from Komatsu dealer (Linder Machinery) and parts guy was confident they were correct for my serial # machine, so far I have not seen anything looking at the cylinder that looks like the parts I have, keeping my fingers crossed that they are right.

MikeK

mikek
11-10-2007, 12:31 AM
tensioning cylinder re-packed, re-sealed, re-installed.

installation went smoother than removal. I replaced all the bolts since I had to use the smoke wrench on about half of them on removal.

if/when I do the left side, the most important thing I learned-- open the release port at the grease fitting and use whatever you have (come-along, port-a-power, or maybe even drive the machine) to get the piston and shaft back as far as possible into the cylinder. Then you have plenty of slack in the track and can use the port-a-power and come-along to hold the track up out of the way to R&R the cylinder.

kc5gxc
11-10-2007, 10:02 PM
Fine job on that thing, Mike. Thanks for the pic. I made some notes for when I have to do it.
Pete

mikek
11-11-2007, 10:27 AM
thanks.....so yesterday I spent a few minutes looking into the glow plug operation on my tractor.

there is a (broken) pushbutton, that is factory installed, on the front of the drivers enclosure, lefthand side, below the throttle and gearshift. It has 2 wires going to it from wiring harness, but there is No voltage at any time.

Is this button the switch for the glowplugs?

Normally the current drawn of glowplugs is so high that a solenoid is used to close that circuit which is controlled by a lighter duty switch.

Does anyone know where the glowplug solenoid is located?

MikeK

Orchard Ex
11-11-2007, 06:37 PM
there is a (broken) pushbutton, that is factory installed, on the front of the drivers enclosure, lefthand side, below the throttle and gearshift. It has 2 wires going to it from wiring harness, but there is No voltage at any time.

It's for the horn. The glowplugs are operated by turning the keyswitch backward until the wire in the indicator glows. (looks kinda like the top of a saltshaker with a curled wire inside in the dash).

mikek
11-11-2007, 10:30 PM
Orch X,

that is a great bit of info!!
I really need to find a manual for this thing...
I just went out in the cold dark night to see what happens when I turn the key CCW, I get the 2 indicator lights illuminated, but no glow in the 'saltshaker'.

I don't hear any sound that I would expect to hear from glowplug solenoid either. I will try this again tomorrow and see if it makes a difference in starting the motor.

thanks,

MikeK

R Leo
11-11-2007, 11:16 PM
Orch X,

that is a great bit of info!!
I really need to find a manual for this thing...
I just went out in the cold dark night to see what happens when I turn the key CCW, I get the 2 indicator lights illuminated, but no glow in the 'saltshaker'.

I don't hear any sound that I would expect to hear from glowplug solenoid either. I will try this again tomorrow and see if it makes a difference in starting the motor.

thanks,

MikeK

It's pretty mild in Texas and I haven't had my D20 through a winter yet but, so far it seems to need very little glow time to fire up. I haven't held it in glow long enough to see anything in the indicator and I don't hear a relay either.

FWIW, I have a old Mercedes diesel ('75 model) with a similar 'salt shaker' GP indicator and you have to glow that engine for a LONG time (+60 seconds) to see the wire in the indicator. It doesn't have a relay either.

rangerfreak
11-12-2007, 09:05 AM
where can i buy a shop manual for my dozer d20:Banghead

hopto211
11-12-2007, 02:58 PM
Hello, I posted this in another forum, I think it was the wrong one so I am trying it here. My D20A6 won't pull on the left track. Right side pulls fine. Any ideas? Brake on left works fine, just won't pull. No noises, driveshaft spins. Thanks for any assistance.

Orchard Ex
11-12-2007, 10:32 PM
Orch X,

that is a great bit of info!!
I really need to find a manual for this thing...
I just went out in the cold dark night to see what happens when I turn the key CCW, I get the 2 indicator lights illuminated, but no glow in the 'saltshaker'.

I don't hear any sound that I would expect to hear from glowplug solenoid either. I will try this again tomorrow and see if it makes a difference in starting the motor.

thanks,

MikeK
It doesn't make any sound. The wire in the indicator breaks very easily when it gets old so it may be bad. A new one is about $20 +/- IIRC. Or you may not be getting any current to the system.:beatsme

Orchard Ex
11-12-2007, 10:34 PM
Hello, I posted this in another forum, I think it was the wrong one so I am trying it here. My D20A6 won't pull on the left track. Right side pulls fine. Any ideas? Brake on left works fine, just won't pull. No noises, driveshaft spins. Thanks for any assistance.

:beatsme Could the left clutch linkage be stuck? :beatsme

John White
11-13-2007, 07:36 PM
where can i buy a shop manual for my dozer d20:Banghead

Rangerfreak: Call D& M Machinery, 716-942-6318, see if he can help you with a manuel, he had one for my Mitsubishi. Also you might check on e-Bay, seems like I seen one there.

copperhead
11-17-2007, 10:12 PM
For some reason, I cannot get the picture of the dipsticks to download properly. Could someone just write which one is which? Thank you.


Dipstick locations (http://berryhillfarm.us/Dozer/scan0001.jpg).
Final drive oil level (http://berryhillfarm.us/Dozer/scan0004.jpg).
Track adjustment. (http://berryhillfarm.us/Dozer/scan0005.jpg)
Fluid specfications. (http://berryhillfarm.us/Dozer/scan0006.jpg).

Hope this helps some. Let me know if there's anything else I can do.

R Leo
11-18-2007, 07:37 PM
For some reason, I cannot get the picture of the dipsticks to download properly. Could someone just write which one is which? Thank you.

The dipstick under the brake pedal (D20) is for the main clutch case. The dipstick under the front edge of the seat is for the transmission and bevel gear case (also D20).

rangerfreak
11-18-2007, 09:58 PM
this might sound like a stupid question but is the dozer 12 or 24 volt:beatsme

mikek
11-18-2007, 10:29 PM
my D21A-5 is 24v system. has (2) 12v batts. connected in series under the operator's righthand console.

Countryboy
11-19-2007, 04:18 AM
Welcome to Heavy Equipment Forums copperhead! :drinkup

R Leo
11-19-2007, 08:16 AM
this might sound like a stupid question but is the dozer 12 or 24 volt:beatsme
My D20 is a 24V system with two 12V betteries connected in series, located behind the seat.

Orchard Ex
11-19-2007, 05:30 PM
this might sound like a stupid question but is the dozer 12 or 24 volt:beatsme

I think that they changed from 24v to 12v at the -7 series and later, but I could be wrong.

hopto211
11-19-2007, 06:41 PM
Linkage is not stuck and everything seems to be operational. Could it be the steering clutches on the LH side are bad? The steering brake band has been replaced but I don't think the person that had it before me checked the clutches.

Originally Posted by hopto211
Hello, I posted this in another forum, I think it was the wrong one so I am trying it here. My D20A6 won't pull on the left track. Right side pulls fine. Any ideas? Brake on left works fine, just won't pull. No noises, driveshaft spins. Thanks for any assistance.


:beatsme Could the left clutch linkage be stuck? :beatsme

rangerfreak
11-25-2007, 09:37 PM
and my question is do i need any tool to flush the radiator on my dozer.the reason that i ask is because i am far away from it right now and i need to know what tools to take when i go down and service it.
Thank you for your time and have a nice day.:confused:

rangerfreak
11-25-2007, 10:42 PM
and my question is do i need any tools to flush the radiator on my dozer.the reason that i ask is because i am far away from it right now and i need to know what tools to take when i go down and service it.
Thank you for your time and have a nice day.:confused:

P.s my dozer burns about 3 qts of oil a day any simple fixes for that as well.

R Leo
11-28-2007, 07:43 AM
P.s my dozer burns about 3 qts of oil a day any simple fixes for that as well.
3qts? You must have to work in a blue cloud...the only simple fix for that is another machine. Are you sure it's burning it?

Willis Bushogin
11-28-2007, 08:26 AM
Well guys,


Try as I might, I can't resize the photo to meet the 640 x 640 requirements.
It (The dozer) should be in within the week (with sweeps installed) and then I can take some photos, hopefully resize them and get them posted so you all can whoop and hollar.
I am having a hard time getting the source for a manual. Any manual. I ordered one from Manuals.US two weeks ago, but nothing has arrived and I can't get them to respond to any of my emails.
So...I am still looking for manuals and cross-references for filters. Any help out there?

WD
My experience for manuals is, if you cant find them on Ebay, call the Komastu dealer. I have a good relation with my Cat and Komastu dealer, and they both may offer you after market parts, if not ask about them, they are usually cheaper. I ordered a set of manuals from the dealer for my excavator, cheaper than I could have gotten them on Ebay.
Grey market Cat.s, I have a 320L and the A/C went out, boy did I have trouble getting the correct part, until I went to my Cat dealer and just luckily I found one of the old timers that uses books along with the computer. He sold me the parts manual for the machine, the writting was in Japanese, but the part numbers are in english, just look at the picture and get the number.
Good forum

Krackerjack9
12-03-2007, 11:32 AM
any place to get a ripper for D21??

wdnewman
12-03-2007, 06:31 PM
Guys,
Trying to adjust the brakes on my 1993 D21-7. Have done all the steps in the manual: removing rear panel, removing the two adjustment nut covers. THEN the problem starts! The manual says to "tighten adjustment nuts to torque of 4 kgm until the lining contacts the drum. Then, turn adjustment nuts in reverse directions for four rotations". It DOES NOT say to turn clockwise or counter-clockwise, but here is the problem. Those darn adjustment nuts won't move at all, in either direction even with a cheater bar. It is like they were frozen shut or something, but the manual offers no advice as to the problem. My dozer does have the joystick controls, and this may be the problem somehow. The parking brake is off. It is sitting on level ground, out of gear. Does anybody out there have any info about this??:beatsme

Thanks,

WD

kc5gxc
12-03-2007, 07:50 PM
Hey WD
I adjusted mine, and I think they were tight also.....but I was able to adjust them.......I don't know if you can put heat on those nuts or not.....that would probably loosten 'em up, but may set machine on fire !!! Oil and trash may be in the bottom of area.
Can't remember if I heated mine up or not.....a little propane torch would do it, if safe.
Good Luck
Pete

Countryboy
12-03-2007, 08:04 PM
Welcome to Heavy Equipment Forums Krackerjack9! :drinkup

wdnewman
12-03-2007, 11:45 PM
Hey WD
I adjusted mine, and I think they were tight also.....but I was able to adjust them.......I don't know if you can put heat on those nuts or not.....that would probably loosten 'em up, but may set machine on fire !!! Oil and trash may be in the bottom of area.
Can't remember if I heated mine up or not.....a little propane torch would do it, if safe.
Good Luck
Pete

Pete, These adjustment nuts wouldn't take heat, because they seem to be several inches long and go down into the brake area. I see no corrosion (sp?) at all. I think I am overlooking something here.

Wulf
12-04-2007, 12:00 AM
The manual says to "tighten adjustment nuts to torque of 4 kgm until the lining contacts the drum. Then, turn adjustment nuts in reverse directions for four rotations"

Normal procedure is that you tighten the adjuster clockwise until the brake bands are touching the drums. Bear in mind that 4 kgm does not require a lot of effort.

To provide the brake clearance you have to turn the adjusters counterclockwise. On the bigger dozers its back 4 flats (close to one full turn) so I wonder if this is a mistake in the book?

Its very strange that the adjusters will not turn and I wonder if you need to have the engine running to release the brakes fully? but obviously have the blade in the ground when you try this

R Leo
12-04-2007, 07:58 AM
Normal procedure is that you tighten the adjuster clockwise until the brake bands are touching the drums. Bear in mind that 4 kgm does not require a lot of effort.

To provide the brake clearance you have to turn the adjusters counterclockwise. On the bigger dozers its back 4 flats (close to one full turn) so I wonder if this is a mistake in the book?


I wondered about that too...my D20 book says back off four full turns after tightening to 4kgf. Seemed like a lot but, my brakes work fine now.

FWIW, 4kgm = ~29 ft/lbs

wdnewman
12-04-2007, 10:29 AM
I wondered about that too...my D20 book says back off four full turns after tightening to 4kgf. Seemed like a lot but, my brakes work fine now.

FWIW, 4kgm = ~29 ft/lbs

I will try this with engine running. Heck, I'll try anything. My manual says to back off for "four rotations", but since I can't get any movement at all in either direction, I guess thats a moot point. It seems strange that the manual doesn't mention anything about special circumstances, but I guess the -7 model with joystick isn't exactly the usual D21. I'll let you know back what happens.

WD

wdnewman
12-04-2007, 11:32 AM
Well, success at last. With the joystick control (and possibly the model21 as well), when you shift the joystick to neutral the brakes are applied automatically. SO... to adjust the brakes the shifter has to be put in forward or reverse to unlock the brakes. Best not to do this with the engine running (unless you want to trot along behind to do the adjustment). This is not mentioned anywhere I can find, but file it away for future reference.

WD:)

Krackerjack9
12-05-2007, 11:42 AM
Well I been doing some research on this and that. Got a quote on a New D21-A7 and holey moley Batman :eek: :eek: way to much for me.
Gave the place up in Sulphur Springs a call and the lady there was very nice and pretty informative on this and that. Now I am leaning towards getting a D31A now:Banghead :beatsme :Banghead what to do?? She mentioned that they are going to be recieving several more dozers around the end of the year and that they go to these auctions every 3 months so there should be plenty more coming in if you missed out on one. Now the reason I was going to go with the smaller dozer was weight issue but she mentioned that several customers haul these out of there with pickup trucks yes they have them on a gooseneck dual axle trailer but I wonder if this gets you in a grey area with the DOT guys???

R Leo
12-05-2007, 12:28 PM
Gave the place up in Sulphur Springs a call and the lady there was very nice and pretty informative on this and that.

PM me. I have some information you might like to have about an outfit in Sulphur Springs.

wdnewman
12-05-2007, 08:50 PM
Whoa boy! No such thing as a "new D21-7". They are all D21-8's for the last two years or so. You are absolutely right in that new ones are way, way too much. I was quoted over $50,000 eight months ago on one. No way. You need to be looking at a mid-ninetys D21-7 with +/- 2000 hours, newly replaced undercarriage, joy stick controls, six way blade and American installed ROPS (with sweeps if you are going under lots of trees). This should cost you less than twenty grand. Machine Trader list lots of prices and you can find some good machines and lots and lots of junk. Be sure to get one without the silly umbrella shade and some real roll over protection. Remember a deal too good to be true always is. I bought mine at Artec Equipment in Alabama, but wherever you buy always go to the dealer and try it out. But FIRST, learn all you can about the dozer. This forum is a great start. You can check out a picture of mine that I posted sometime last June or July on page 7.
About the D31. Sometimes I wish I had more pushing power when the big trees show up, but then I think about how much more expensive the '31 is to maintain and run, and I really like how I can get into some really tight working spaces with mine. Hauling could be a big factor with you. I would haul mine with a gooseneck and a diesel F250, but no way would I haul a D31 that way. I do not speak from experience here as I don't need to move mine around. Keep us posted on your progress.:usa

Krackerjack9
12-05-2007, 11:03 PM
yeah I was adding up the numbers, dozer 16500, trailer 5000, truck 6000. that puts you over 26,000lbs, I have a CDL which is no problem but most 2500/3500 series trucks from 04 and up they can pull the weight, but your over the gross weight by a pretty good margin. The new Chev 2500HD series can go as high as 24,000lbs and from what I have been hearing on some of the truck forums the wieght is not a issue as long as you dont do something stupid. Its the total wieght what will get you in trouble with the DOT guy or your local state trooper. But I am going to be on mainly on FM and SR and county roads so I could roll the dice, I dont think it will be issue but then this means I got buy me a new truck :D :rolleyes: Now if I can only decide on the color of truck:beatsme . If I got one job with it every 2 months that took me 2 or 3 days then that be fine with me. Once one has worked over here you soon realize that there are so many more important things to do beside work and work and work

Krackerjack9
12-08-2007, 07:02 AM
well found this one person who has a D20A-6 and seems like its a win win win

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/construction-equipment/99717-komatsu-d20a-6-a.html?highlight=komatsu+bulldozer


Its in the construction section, neat little part about getting a whole schematic on your Komatsu dozer parts, if only I was home:usa :usa

Krackerjack9
12-16-2007, 11:15 AM
There are some new D21's for sale but they have the rubber tracks, is it possible to switch them out for steel tracks?? Or is the whole set up totally different??

mikek
12-20-2007, 01:53 AM
Been taming our mountain with the D21, this little dozer has impressed the heck out of me pushing over trees and moving dirt. Removing stumps with our old Case backhoe(1966 model 440) would require re-positioning the machine several times and take FOREVER to get 1 done.
With the dozer I can make a cut on the backside then come around and roll the stump over, up and out of the ground in a matter of minutes!!

I'm planning to do a maintenance day over the Christmas/NewYears holidays, and have a couple or 3 questions maybe someone here has an answer for:

1) what is the factory spec. on intake and exhaust valve clearance?

2) my leftside steering lever comes back much further than the rightside lever, is this a simple brake adjustment? specs?

3) the glow plugs are not heating, nor is my 'saltshaker' glowing when I turn the key CCW. Anybody have a wiring diagram that is scan-able or email-able for a 1985 D21A-5.

still watching ebay for a manual, there is a guys selling CD manuals for -7 & -8 models, sez the -5 and -6 is 'similar'.......

Thanks,
MikeK

R Leo
12-20-2007, 09:42 AM
Been taming our mountain with the D21, this little dozer has impressed the heck out of me pushing over trees and moving dirt. Removing stumps with our old Case backhoe(1966 model 440) would require re-positioning the machine several times and take FOREVER to get 1 done.
With the dozer I can make a cut on the backside then come around and roll the stump over, up and out of the ground in a matter of minutes!!

I'm planning to do a maintenance day over the Christmas/NewYears holidays, and have a couple or 3 questions maybe someone here has an answer for:

1) what is the factory spec. on intake and exhaust valve clearance?

2) my leftside steering lever comes back much further than the rightside lever, is this a simple brake adjustment? specs?

3) the glow plugs are not heating, nor is my 'saltshaker' glowing when I turn the key CCW. Anybody have a wiring diagram that is scan-able or email-able for a 1985 D21A-5.

still watching ebay for a manual, there is a guys selling CD manuals for -7 & -8 models, sez the -5 and -6 is 'similar'.......

Thanks,
MikeK



Mike,
I have a -6 but, I'll bring my manuals in this Friday and post this info for you. Can't imagine it being much different.

R

Doodlesock
12-20-2007, 11:11 PM
Hey guys I'm not trying to hijack this thread but I can't figure out how to send a PM or I don't have access to that feature. Anyway........
I've read the thread you started about your new leaf that you recently turned over and have lots of questions I'd like to ask you.
I have also looked at the web page from the place in Sulphur Springs and would like to ask you about that as well.
If you are willing to let me pick your brain could you send your email address to me at: tnjgibson@yahoo.com

Doodlesock
12-20-2007, 11:23 PM
Guess I should have made my first post a little more like this.
Hi guys.
Been reading here in the background for a while now. What a great forum! I haven't seen anything like it anywhere else.
As a group you are more helpful and civil than most any on the net these days.
I'm hoping to keep gathering information for quite a while. Heck I might even have something to add someday.
Merry Christmas and Ho Ho Ho to you all!

R Leo
12-20-2007, 11:27 PM
Welcome to HEF!

mikek
12-21-2007, 01:16 AM
Mike,
I have a -6 but, I'll bring my manuals in this Friday and post this info for you. Can't imagine it being much different.

R

R Leo,

that would be GREAT, I appreciate it.

This IS a wonderful forum.

MK

Steve Frazier
12-21-2007, 03:50 AM
Why not ask your questions here? That's what the forums are all about! After 3 posts, you will be able to use all of the member accessories.

Countryboy
12-21-2007, 08:21 PM
Welcome to Heavy Equipment Forums Doodlesock! :drinkup

R Leo
12-23-2007, 11:53 PM
All this is out of my D20p-6 manual....



1) what is the factory spec. on intake and exhaust valve clearance?

Intake - .032mm (0.0137")
Exhaust - .05mm (0.0196")



2) my leftside steering lever comes back much further than the rightside lever, is this a simple brake adjustment? specs?

Don't know for sure about the -5 but that doesn't sound like an adjustment. Does everything work OK?



3) the glow plugs are not heating, nor is my 'saltshaker' glowing when I turn the key CCW. Anybody have a wiring diagram that is scan-able or email-able for a 1985 D21A-5.

Here you go:
Wiring Diagram (http://berryhillfarm.us/Dozer/D20Wiring.jpg)

mikek
12-24-2007, 01:33 AM
R Leo,

you are The MAN!!

I ran my machine a few hours yesterday, pushing over white pines 20" dia. and 75-80' tall.....incredible what this 10k lb machine can do.

I did not pull the floor pan yet, but have a feeling there is a brake adjustment for each steering lever under the pan.

Now that I have a wiring diagram I will solve my non-functioning glow plugs. With cold weather in the NC mountains I've been having to hit a spritz of ether at the air intake to get this thing to lite up, I'd much rather have the GP's operational.

thank you very much,

Mike

Krackerjack9
12-24-2007, 10:02 AM
I been doing some research on the engines that power these D21/D20

This may not be all of them but this is what I have came up with

4D95S-1 rated 40HP 2.69 liter engine
4D94E-1A rated 36HP 2.77 liter engine
4D95L-1 rated 50HP 3.26 liter engine
4D98E-1A rated 50HP 3.32 liter engine
4D94LE-2 rated 39HP 3.05 liter engine

now from what I can gather the 50Hp rated engine are from 75001 thur 78603 for the 4D95L-1
and the 4D98E-1A is rated 50hp from 78604 and up but its hard to determine the cutoff but it looks like it might cut off at 82900 but I am not sure. So no wonder some of these people are having some good luck on these when they only thought they had 40Hp dozers. I guess its best to start looking at engine codes to factor in your puchase if so desired:cool2 :cool2

R Leo
12-24-2007, 10:11 AM
I did not pull the floor pan yet, but have a feeling there is a brake adjustment for each steering lever under the pan.
The deck plate (the piece under your feet) and seat plate (what the seat is bolted to) can be removed for full access to the brake/clutch linkages.

I don't know about the -5 but, these are the adjustment specs for the -6 steering linkages.

Steering adjustments (http://berryhillfarm.us/Dozer/SteeringlInkages.jpg)


Hope this helps.

Doodlesock
01-10-2008, 11:02 PM
I have read the following and need some clarification from you guys:

The A model dozer will push harder than the P.
Does it only seem to push harder due to a smaller blade?
Will the P push hard enough to make good use of it's blade?

The P tracks are hard on the undercarriage.
Have you found this to be true?
How much would you suspect it shortens undercarriage life?

Would you prefer standard grousers or pyramid tracks? The pyramid tracks seem to be more readily availble. This may be due to more pyramids being available or due to standard grousers being more in demand. Don't know which.

machineman
01-11-2008, 08:34 PM
I have read the following and need some clarification from you guys:

The A model dozer will push harder than the P.
Does it only seem to push harder due to a smaller blade?
Will the P push hard enough to make good use of it's blade?

The P tracks are hard on the undercarriage.
Have you found this to be true?
How much would you suspect it shortens undercarriage life?

Would you prefer standard grousers or pyramid tracks? The pyramid tracks seem to be more readily availble. This may be due to more pyramids being available or due to standard grousers being more in demand. Don't know which.

I have a D20P-7 with pyramid tracks and I can tell you that they work great on deep mud and soft dirt. However its hell on the rocky areas. The wide tracks are proably part of the reason mine were forced off the front idler when working in lots of large rocks. Again the same for the "P" blade, full loads in soft dirt but on rocky areas the dozer seems underpowered and/or undersized. Don't know about undrcarriage lifetime, will depend on how much you punish it. It will have an easy life if you never get into large rocks or stumps.

Krackerjack9
01-12-2008, 10:08 AM
Well if things go the way they are going I should be getting a 1998 D21A-7 in Early April. Im just going to be using it to clear brush mostly that south Texas Sage.

Krackerjack9
01-13-2008, 11:14 PM
I think the Pyramid style tracks is mostly due to the application that the dozers were orginally spec out for, Muddy and really soft ground. you look at the PSI on the grouser tracks vs the Pyramid or even rubber tracks your going to let you know how much traction more or less your going to get.

jimmer
01-30-2008, 10:22 PM
I read this whole thread and learned alot. I love this forum.
I'm a newbie to the dozer world. I'm looking for a smaller dozer like the D21P-7 to do some clearing on my place in Texas. Will this dozer handle cedar, oak, and elm up to 10"? I have some spots that has deep sand (1-2')will I require the pyramid tracks? I also have some clay at depth and some at the surface will the pyramid tracks get enough traction when the clay is hard? What is the fuel consumption of this dozer? Are the joystick machines easier to learn on or are the lever control ones easier? What is the best way to learn besides just getting out on it and driving? Does anybody know of a D21P-7 in Texas that is in good shape for sale? What is a good price for this machine? I have seen them from 12K to 24K. :beatsme

Thanks in advance for your contribution to my education!!

Jim

R Leo
01-31-2008, 02:58 AM
Will this dozer handle cedar, oak, and elm up to 10"?
Sure. Just don't expect to take these size trees down in one pass. I needed to take out a large post oak (10"-12" dia and 35'-40' tall) on a job earlier this week. It took over an hour to get it out and I had to excavate out on all four sides of the trunk. The resulting hole was big enough to hold the machine when I was done


I have some spots that has deep sand (1-2')will I require the pyramid tracks?
I also have some clay at depth and some at the surface will the pyramid tracks get enough traction when the clay is hard?
Understand that I'm new to this whole thing and have little experience but it seems to me that because the dozer is so daggone light (<10k lbs) I don't think the pads (pyramid or grousers) make that much difference on these little machines when it comes to traction. I'd make my decision on tracks based on the terrain you'll be working in...pyramids for sand, grousers for rock.


What is the fuel consumption of this dozer? 1/2 GPH has been my average.


What is the best way to learn besides just getting out on it and driving? That's what I did.

jimmer
01-31-2008, 08:40 PM
R Leo, Thanks for the input, sounds like I will not be pushing over very many larger oaks. I don't plan on taking out very many of the larger(10") size trees. Most of what I need to clear is brush, smaller mesquites, cedars, elms and some smaller oaks. I was just trying to find out the upper limit of this size dozer. 1/2 GPH sounds pretty good. I hope I find a dozer in good condition for a good price soon.

Thanks Again,
Jim

dgarner1988
02-02-2008, 09:09 PM
i am working on a komatsu d-20 p6 and wondering how to remove the steering clutchs on the right side, i have tore into it and have the final drive off the right side but i cant get the shaft out that goes into the clutch pack out to the final drive! any help would be appreciated. and what do i have to do to be able to start new treads?

dgarner1988
02-03-2008, 09:04 AM
ttt

R Leo
02-03-2008, 10:06 AM
i am working on a komatsu d-20 p6 and wondering how to remove the steering clutchs on the right side, i have tore into it and have the final drive off the right side but i cant get the shaft out that goes into the clutch pack out to the final drive! any help would be appreciated. and what do i have to do to be able to start new treads?
I'm no help on the clutch pak shaft but, around here, you have to post several responses to threads before you're permitted to start one.

dgarner1988
02-03-2008, 07:49 PM
any sujestions!

Wulf
02-03-2008, 08:24 PM
i am working on a komatsu d-20 p6 and wondering how to remove the steering clutchs on the right side, i have tore into it and have the final drive off the right side but i cant get the shaft out that goes into the clutch pack out to the final drive! any help would be appreciated. and what do i have to do to be able to start new treads?

What's wrong with the dozer?... like most other multi-disc clutch/band type brake dozers the steering clutch has to come out through the top. There should be no reason to remove the final drive :beatsme

dgarner1988
02-04-2008, 05:31 PM
i thought that the final drive had to come off because the shaft goes from the final drive into the clutch pack. not sure though, htis is a trial and error thing for me. i have tank and everthing off and can see the clutch pack but dont know how to get it out. the dozer will turn right sometimes and wont sometimes it will chock the engine off if you try to turn right. not sure whats wrong just trying to figure it out.

Wulf
02-04-2008, 09:46 PM
Sounds like the RH clutch is not releasing and when the brake applies it stalls the engine but you should ensure that the pressure is OK and the release piston and yoke are moving fully.... before you start disassembly (ooops)

Once you are sure the problem is in the clutch assy then it can be removed by removing the rings of bolts on either side. You will need to rotate the sprocket to get at all the bolts then just lift it straight out.

dgarner1988
02-05-2008, 02:39 PM
thanks! i will let you know what i find!

MUDSLINGERS
03-03-2008, 04:00 PM
I've been running komatsu dozers for about 9 years and I think they are the best finish dozers out there!!! I've been running a 41E since 2000 and love it but my company took it the other day and is got me the new 51. Didn't think anything could compare to the 41 but so far I love it!!! BETTER VIEW!!!

Countryboy
03-03-2008, 08:54 PM
Welcome to Heavy Equipment Forums MUDSLINGERS! :drinkup

VjjR
03-04-2008, 01:24 AM
well this is a long thread. actually didnt read any of it. but i am in the market for a used dozer to use on the ranch here and possibly make a little money with. i was thinking d3. but i want something i can pull with my 3/4 dodge cummins. is this what im looking for? a d 21?

dane busth
03-06-2008, 05:57 PM
My d20 has a 4D92-1 and the label says 38hp

dane busth
03-06-2008, 06:45 PM
The deck plate (the piece under your feet) and seat plate (what the seat is bolted to) can be removed for full access to the brake/clutch linkages.

I don't know about the -5 but, these are the adjustment specs for the -6 steering linkages.

Steering adjustments (http://berryhillfarm.us/Dozer/SteeringlInkages.jpg)


Hope this helps.
anyone have a photo of the deck plates for a -3, someone removed mine and never replaced them.

Countryboy
03-07-2008, 05:54 PM
Welcome to Heavy Equipment Forums dane busth! :drinkup