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jagslynks
01-15-2011, 08:27 PM
All,

We are the contracted undercarriage remanufacturers for Komatsu in India and SE Asia. We have been in business for almsot 25 years in India and are expanding our operations to serve the US and Canada markets. I'm looking to establish networks and see if we can help anyone out here with our expertise.

Jags
www.krausslynks.com

david m j
01-17-2011, 11:06 PM
I have a d20-6 , and sometimes it want start off the key switch. If the charge light is on it will start, if not on you have to cross out the starter. Someone told me that there is a diode in the alternator that needs to be replaced. Can anyone help with this problem?

sick&tired
01-18-2011, 01:18 PM
Well it finally dried up enough here in No. Mexifornia to get out side and work on the kommie D31s i picked up at auction a couple months back.
I had checked all the fluid dipsticks and added sae30 where it appeared low.
I had warmed up the tractor for about 10 mins at idle and lifted the bucket and ripper bar, I pushed in the inching pedal and engaged it into gear.
I was driving it down the property in 1st and pushed inching pedal and shifted into second. The shift engagements seemed rough from N to 1 and from 1 to2. Clunky. Jerky. After running it for a litte bit i realized the inching pedal doesnt seem to work at all.
It pushes in and returns and seems like its working but no changes are felt except for what seems to be engine booging down a little when completely depressed. It does not help in shifting and will not slow or stop tractor like a clutch would.
By then it seemed fairly well warmed up. I was driving it forward and backward, testing the gears and brakes and steering etc.
When driving under power both pedals applied as brakes fully, it will not stop, barely slows it down. - I figure brakes are out of adjustment or worn.
Next, steering brakes. Left side works well. Right side works sometimes or just barely. I figure same thing. Out of adjustment or worn brakes or clutches.
This is where the problem that i cant figure out is.
I would be going forward with no problems, and then out of nowhere, it would be like someone was applying the brakes or pulling on the E brake to slow it completely down and stall out. Its l;ike something gets tight and binds up. No Noise. No grinding, but it kinda squeels and the motor stresses and some smoke comes from somewhere and smells like burnt engine oil.
To avoid stalling, i move gear selector from 1 to N, 2 to 1, and engine revs back up
and it will go again. It will do this only sometimes and in any gear, forward or backward. I have the parts book on it, but i dont have the repair manual yet.
Any input guys?

skyking
01-19-2011, 10:11 AM
I have a car hauler with 2 3500 lb. axles. Can I safely haul my d20 with this trailer or do I need bigger. I really dont want to buy another trailer just to haul this thing 50 miles twice a year.

FurakawaMatt
01-19-2011, 12:01 PM
I have a car hauler with 2 3500 lb. axles. Can I safely haul my d20 with this trailer or do I need bigger. I really dont want to buy another trailer just to haul this thing 50 miles twice a year.

Why not just rent a sufficient trailer for those hauls? Most rental places do not charge too much. Your trailer is too light at 7000#s max axle weight to haul it. If I recall corectly you are dealing with 9200-9600lbs

shouldabeen
01-19-2011, 05:35 PM
I have a car hauler with 2 3500 lb. axles. Can I safely haul my d20 with this trailer or do I need bigger. I really dont want to buy another trailer just to haul this thing 50 miles twice a year.
I have a tri axle trailer with 17000lb capacity and its for sale. trailer brakes an all six wheels,brakes and bearings are new bumper pull. I used it to pull my d21 with a 3/4ton truck and now do not need the trailer. $2200 bucks and its your the tires are also mostly new.

goldeneagle
01-19-2011, 09:50 PM
I'm new at this so bear with me I have a 1996 D20p thats in good shap but was having trouble pushin in on the clutch pedal and now its stuck all the way disingaged can you help have not manual.

skyking
01-19-2011, 10:23 PM
Thanks for the offer shouldabeen , but I think I will check locally for a rental.I hate to buy another trailer to use maybe twice a year.

Glock
01-20-2011, 09:33 AM
Hey goldeneagle this is what I found when I incurred similar problem. Hope this helps as it beats tearing into clutch thats not broke. I have found the problem lies where the clutch attachment rod connects with the fulcrum lever then to the clutch assembly. Inside the fulcrum lever is a needle bearing that cannot be greased, once it goes dry it is metal to metal on shaft which then caused it to bind resulting in pedal not wanting to move. The bearing is $9.00 #06124-02020 from Komatsu. If you are noticing the pedal not retracting quickly, drive shaft spin-down time excessive (as adjustment rods wont extend fully) or the clutch return spring breaking your problem may be this bearing which cant be seen until it's dissembled.

goldeneagle
01-20-2011, 09:33 PM
Glock Thanks I'll try that. Tomball is the closest Komatsu dealer to me I think. That might also expland the spring I found out in the horse pend last time I was working back there. Thanks again

sick&tired
01-21-2011, 11:35 AM
I didnt get any replies to my earlier post, so i just went out and started working on the D31s.
I took the floor board off, i took the seat off, and the rear upper panel. I had cleaned it with a pressure washer before, but didnt have real good access in the trans area. I am going to rewash it today.
What i found was the lever which engages the steering clutches on the R side was stuck completely in the up/on position. It was rusting, and being prevented from returning by alot of hard packed dirt in that area. I took a big screwdriver and was able to scrape out alot of the dirt and clear the blockage. Then i sprayed bunches of WD40 on the joint and let it soak for a few minutes. I took the screwdriver and a hammer and started to bang on the lever to loosen it up. After about a 1/2 hour of tapping down, stepping on brakes clutch etc. I was able to finally break it free and now it will move smoothly and return where it is supposed to.
Hoping that i have fixed it somewhat, i started the tractor, let it warm up, and without replacing anything i removed, i faked a seat and tested it out in my driveway. Seems to work better now. I didn t experience the dragging problem- so far, and now it turned on R side like it was supposed too. I adjusted the brake pedal linkages a little, i think i need some more. I dont have the repair manual yet so im unsure of the exact proceedure. Anyone have any pics of what linkages i should be adjusting on the brake rods?- there are a few on each one. Darin Ray where are you buddy? You seem to know the most about these kommies.
Thanks
S&T

jwar100
01-21-2011, 08:40 PM
Hello all, I am looking at buying a D20P-7 serial number 75056 and would like to know if this is a good model. I am in the dozer business and run older cats now. I have a customer that wants me to trade out some work for this thing, i have been wanting a smaller dozer for sometime now. Can anyone tell from the serial number what year and hp this is? thanks JW

david m j
01-22-2011, 10:24 PM
I had a new diode put in the alternator and it fixed my starting problem

catfish40
01-22-2011, 10:37 PM
I am new to this forum. I found it while trying to find a solution to a problem that I am having with my dozer. I have a Komatsu D20A. I let it sit up for around 3 months & when I tried to use it the right track was locked up. I pulled the seat & found that the rod in the control valve was moving properly. All of the other hydraulics are working properly I tried pulling it with my tractor to break it loose but it just dragged the whole dozer. I'm not sure what the next step is. I would sure appreciate any ideas or advice that anyone could offer to help me get it back going.

jwar100
01-23-2011, 02:52 PM
Sounds like you have a brake locked up on the right side. Might try to see if you can move the linkages and lube them up. If you have a parking brake it may be stuck also, try moving everything and lube it up first. You could have a rat nest in the tractor as well.

joemorgan
01-25-2011, 04:12 PM
Hello all, I have a 1988 D20A-6, the right hand steering clutch growls when using it, can anybody tell me what causes this?

darinray
01-27-2011, 09:30 PM
:) S&T....There is NO way I know the most about these komatsus but have run into problems from time to time. :) I don't check this site as much as I would like and sorry for not seeing your posts. The linkages are probably fine UNLESS it was adjusted prior to you owning it. To adjust the brake clearance you take the small cover off the back of the clutch housings and tighten down on the 17mm head until it bottoms out and then back off a couple turns. Keep me posted and contact me anytime via my email. Good luck and take care.

darinray
01-27-2011, 09:32 PM
Looks like a 1992 model and they are 40hp.

darinray
01-27-2011, 09:40 PM
Hey Joe,

Are there any other symptoms like motor bogging down or anything? It may be your clutches trying to release or your brake drum being chewed up... your slip yoke bearing bad. Best thing to do is tear it down to find out before something major happens. Good luck.

joemorgan
01-29-2011, 01:27 PM
no other symptoms, they work fine, don't slip, just growl when you engage them under a load, been like that since I've owned it [4yrs now] I was just curious if this is normal or if they are worn and need replaced.

wsw
02-06-2011, 04:38 AM
I have a customer here in Ontario that has one says it a great machine but a little to small for what he needs, only a few hundred hrs on it, And its going up for sale or for trade up. he wants a D4G, 550H or 650H

gene0522
02-07-2011, 11:48 AM
Darin,

You have been such a help with our D20P. Certainly appreciate all your help. Wish everyone was as nice as you. Thanks again.
Gene & Jennifer

andrewecd
02-13-2011, 11:26 PM
Hi,
Thought I would contribute something as I have learned a lot from searching this forum in the past few months.
I just bought this Mitsubishi for my 25 acre property.
It's a BD2H(E) model. E means wider track. Has a nice wide stance. Also has rippers which were a real selling point. Also like the clear view ahead (exhaust comes out the back! - cool)
Seller is a real nice guy who operates a D11 and a drag line in a coal mine for 30 years and he knows his stuff and how to look after it, so he also gave me a few pointers.
He loves these small dozers and could not fault it for its size....although he did say he liked this one because of the wider track (and he got the rippers fitted).

Garrett
02-20-2011, 12:48 PM
Hello,I have issues with my d21-a5:
First I left dozer with trusted friend and now when you pull the left lever hard, it barely turns.Like the brake is doing the turning and track is still engaged.Feels like it's been like that a few hours and brake is wearing down.I didn't hear about this until recently bad enough that it's no longer working good.What a pal.
Second this past year I've had to turn glow plugs on for 15-30seconds to get it to start.Smokes black and a knock until warm.Even in 100deg weather.When I bought it I didn't have to use glow plugs unless really cold.Injectors dripping fuel now?
Third when I check transmission fluid level near brake pedal,It's dry then I put back in and recheck,it may have oil on it then if I leave dip stick out for a little longer,it will show oil level is good.Like air pressure in tank?I am supposed to check level while it's off?When running the dip stick is dry.Also if I loose power to tracks which does happen sometimes,I pull dipstick out and then put back in and power comes back.I put a qt of oil in and problem is gone.
History of dozer,it's a rebuilt in vietnam referbished unit with a pipe roll cage on it.Showed 259hr when bought and nearly 500hrs now.Was really nice looking till I used it clearing cedars on side of mountains at house.Recently I've had overheating issues so would just use it lightly and would hold temp under 210deg.I had radiator rodded out and new temp gage put on and weather has been cool so we'll see if it's fixed.It looked like hydro oil in it so I added it.I see know I should use 30SAE engine oil.I have hydro filter but don't know where to put it.long tube cartrige.I was thinking it was going to be the spin on near the batteries.Man I need some manuals I know.Komatsu dealer in dallas is awesome.That's where I bought my fuel,oil,hydro,throttle cable from.Real helpful and good people.One here in San Antonio is looking after the big boys machines with the big money.I don't blame them but sucks to have a machine people look down on.(grey market)

Garrett
02-20-2011, 01:14 PM
One more thing, it pulls good on both sides under load but just won't turn good on left side,like brake is trying to grab it but worn down.Doesn't matter if forward or reverse.Man I'm temted to take to shop but scared of the bill.thanks for the help.CG

joemorgan
02-20-2011, 03:51 PM
if the left track won't disengage, especially under a load it sounds like the steering clutch is stuck

Ron
02-23-2011, 02:49 PM
I was working with my D20-6 this morning all at once when I pull either steering lever the machine stops moving and a clunking noise comes from the belly. Everything still seems/sounds normal while going forward or backward (until I try to turn). I don't understand what point the steering levers have in common - unless both clutches went out at the same time.:idontgetit Is there ANY chance this is a quick, cheap fix? Any thoughts and suggestions would be appreciated.

Ron
02-23-2011, 05:06 PM
New observation: oil is coming out of the final drive.

darinray
02-27-2011, 01:17 PM
I think you need to check the pressures on your steering control valve to see if both sides are actually getting pressure to release the clutches at teh same time.

Is there oil in BOTH steering clutch cases? Hopefully NOT...

Make sure there is nothing obstructing the linkages that woudl cause both to be actuated...

If you push the brake pedal down all by itself (don't pull any levers and go forward or reverse) does it stop the machine or make the motor bog down?

Where does the oil leak from the final?? The sprocket seal???

darinray
02-27-2011, 01:25 PM
Reply is in you message



Hello,I have issues with my d21-a5:
First I left dozer with trusted friend and now when you pull the left lever hard, it barely turns.Like the brake is doing the turning and track is still engaged.Feels like it's been like that a few hours and brake is wearing down.I didn't hear about this until recently bad enough that it's no longer working good.What a pal.
Second this past year I've had to turn glow plugs on for 15-30seconds to get it to start.Smokes black and a knock until warm.Even in 100deg weather.When I bought it I didn't have to use glow plugs unless really cold.Injectors dripping fuel now?
I always have to glow my older machines... :)

Third when I check transmission fluid level near brake pedal,It's dry then I put back in and recheck,it may have oil on it then if I leave dip stick out for a little longer,it will show oil level is good.Like air pressure in tank?I am supposed to check level while it's off?When running the dip stick is dry.Engine off and double dip stick for accurate readingAlso if I loose power to tracks which does happen sometimes,I pull dipstick out and then put back in and power comes back.I put a qt of oil in and problem is gone.Yikes... not sure on this
History of dozer,it's a rebuilt in vietnam referbished unit with a pipe roll cage on it.Showed 259hr when bought and nearly 500hrs now.Was really nice looking till I used it clearing cedars on side of mountains at house.Recently I've had overheating issues so would just use it lightly and would hold temp under 210deg.I had radiator rodded out and new temp gage put on and weather has been cool so we'll see if it's fixed.It looked like hydro oil in it so I added it.I see know I should use 30SAE engine oil.I have hydro filter but don't know where to put it.long tube cartrige.I was thinking it was going to be the spin on near the batteries.The hydraulick tank doesn take engine oil adn also has a spin on filter by batteriesMan I need some manuals I know.Komatsu dealer in dallas is awesome.That's where I bought my fuel,oil,hydro,throttle cable from.Real helpful and good people.One here in San Antonio is looking after the big boys machines with the big money.I don't blame them but sucks to have a machine people look down on.(grey market)

darinray
02-27-2011, 01:27 PM
Have you tightened the brake band down in the back of the machine behind those 2 little covers??? I do have manuals so contact me via my website for information.


One more thing, it pulls good on both sides under load but just won't turn good on left side,like brake is trying to grab it but worn down.Doesn't matter if forward or reverse.Man I'm temted to take to shop but scared of the bill.thanks for the help.CG

qhcowboy73
03-04-2011, 10:56 PM
Garrett. I am new to dozers but not to hydraulics. Sounds to me like your hydraulic tank might have a clogged breather or if the oil level is low you might be sucking air into the system. Sometimes on hydraulic brake systems, air can cause a piston to push outwards causing the brakes to drag. You may be experiencing a similar problem with the piston that disengages the drive clutches. I would guess they will clear themselves of air on their own? Maybe there is a bleeder but, I do not remember seeing one. There is a bleeder on top of the spool valve that controls the clutches on each side. Good luck.

qhcowboy73
03-04-2011, 11:07 PM
I was searching threads a few days ago and someone had mentioned having the info on changing drive clutches in a Komatsu d21p-6 with out removing the final drives. I have the covers off and am looking at the clutches on the right side but have no idea how to get them out. There doesn't appear to be any way of getting a wrench in there to get to all of the bolts with out lifting up one side and moving track to roll the clutch around. I am not sure the clutches are bad but, I am going to find out. I was able to push dirt for about 30 minutes and everything seemed fine. When I went to BACK it up on a trailer, the right side lost all drive. Now back on flat ground, it still will not pull on the right side. Oil levels all check out. No manuals to reference so any help would be greatly appreciated. Also experiencing the starter issue. Guess a diode is in order?

Garrett
03-05-2011, 07:24 AM
Thanks,I'm going to get it sunday I'll give a few things a try.Talking to a mechanic he said that it may use glow plugs even at normal start up and I should test glow plugs voltage.I thought glow plugs only worked when you turned key backwards? We'll see.He thinks some isn't working.
As to turning he said like yall to check for oil and back up on a trash tree and put blade down to lift tracks off the ground and see if side is under power or not when pulling the lever.Then adjust brake band.Nice to have a baby dozer in that respect.9k lbs ish
Knock at startup is due to unburned fuel he thinks.Maybe dirty injectors or just glow plugs not working.
Lastly,said if I can't figure it out, it will cost $1500ish for a side steering clutch and maybe a $2k job walking out fixing everything.Let's hope I can fix.

If i can,I'm thinking about moving on up.Trading in on big older dozer.I seen alot of cheap large dozers on Craigslist in 40-70k lb range.Before I get a reply,I know repairs cost on a large old machine are very large.I seen a nice one thats a D5 with winch and a whole slew of rebuilds or repairs recently done for sale for $14500.Also TD25 old cable blade for like $8500neg.Also recent overhauls.
My question is I have a friend in Tx hill country that is in a 3000 acre ranch subdivision(Smaller 15-50 acre ranches).If i had a dozer out there I could drive within the ranch doing work due to gravel roads.And with new buyers and my other friend being president of land owners assn,I can pay for it in no time.What is too big for rough and rocky land? I don't want something that can get trapped in a valley or not enough power to climb hills.To do normal ranch work like roads,cedar clearing,shaping,fence lines.Is a TD25ish machine too big to get down hills doing work and what about cable lifts.I know not near as good as hyd but how bad are they really?You can have 100ft elevation drops on 25acre tracts so I don't want to mess up getting in a tight spot.
I have made my little dozer do alot and learned alot from it.And really enjoy it.Just ready to get something bigger.Sure a dream is to make a living doing it but don't have capital to invest in semi truck,trailer,dozer,back hoe,track loader,grader in order to really have a real business.And in newer condition so that I can depend on it.Need to get a job driving/living it first I know but my real job pays too much to quit.Man don't I ramble on?Sorry.Thanks everyone.I'll be contacting you soon for those manuals.

qhcowboy73
03-07-2011, 09:24 AM
Just wanted to give an update to my problem from above. I took the clutches out and found water had invaded the drives on both sides. Everything was rusted very badly. There was also enough dust in the drives that the clutches were running in it all the time. I suppose that is why the clutches would grab some of the time and not other times. I suppose replacing the brake bands would be a good idea too since I am already in there. Anyhow, a simple fix was not in the cards for me but, this really isn't a difficult job. It just takes a little time. I am thinking it may be a good idea to pull the plugs from the bottom occasionally to check for water and dust build up. Just thought I would share my experience in order to inform and hopefully help someone with their machine.

BigBoy
03-08-2011, 11:40 AM
1st time here, can anyone help me find a good and best deal on a shop manual for komatsu d20p-7. I'm replacing steering clutches. BigBoy

darinray
03-08-2011, 08:56 PM
Got everyone covered here for parts... :) If I'm asked where to find the best deal and good deal I have to speak up. :) RIGHT???

Tim bynum
03-09-2011, 09:34 PM
I need help adjusting my clutches and or brake band on my d20p.Does anyone have a diagram or some info?Thanks,Tim

darinray
03-10-2011, 07:35 AM
Sure do Tim. Contact me and I'll email you them.

Tim bynum
03-10-2011, 09:50 AM
Sure do Tim. Contact me and I'll email you them.

Thanks for the reply,my email adress is salmonriverminers@yahoo.com thanks,Tim

jyarbrough
03-21-2011, 02:32 PM
Great info guys. I have attempted to read some of the 80+ pages and have already learned alot about my machine but have kindof got lost on some issues and could use some pointers.

I bought a Komatsu D20p about a year ago to clean up the farm and to push up some topsoil for our landscape business. After putting about 150 hours I had to tighten the tracks just a smidge.

I am now having two issues.

1. I have now started to grind the gears. I have tried to slow down and it does reduce the grind and I have also adjusted the brake band between your feet and that has helped alot. Is there any more adjustments that I can do?

2. The more I use the machine, it will not turn left. This is the biggest issue. Can anyone point me to where and how to start checking. I have kindof got lost in the previous post on where to check. I plan on doing a couple yards and got more fencing to pushup the first part of April.

country boy
03-26-2011, 12:03 AM
well for starters i was impressed to find a section dedicated to d20 and d21 dozers. sweeet idea, my compliments to the one who started the thread.. anywho i spent an hour or so going thru the 86 plus pages and have learned alot already.. i have recently purchased a D21P-6 , and im having some problems with the transmission.

here is my problem, it only shifts in 1 forward and 1 reverse, i would like to get it to shift in 2 forward and 2 reverse. but meanwhile i have been using it with 1 gear each way. but after about an hour of working it gets really hard to disengage reverse and or forward. i have taken off the floor plate so i can see what is going on and one of the valves does not close completly some times. can i fix this by adjusting linkage or do i have a bigger issue ?
Thanks in advance for any help, CB

country boy
03-26-2011, 04:39 PM
great news.. after reading posts till i was dizzy i was inspired to go figure out whats going on with my shifter. i removed the floor plate and took the shifter cable loose, started the dozer and was able to(from the seat) shift it by hand, i have 2 gears forward and 2 reverse. the problem is in my cable it is just about froze up..

Next question is were can i order the cable for the shifter ??
any help greatly appreciated. thanks,CB

PS. i have learned more about my dozer in the few hours i have spent reading this thread than i would have in years on my own. :notworthy

shouldabeen
03-26-2011, 10:19 PM
If Darin cant get it then look on ebay next call the dealer but have that vin number or youll be running in circles

Fryguy
03-27-2011, 06:52 PM
I have been looking to purchase a used dozer and saw a Kimatsu D20A-6 on eBay. I have some farmland that I bought that is really overgrown. Will a D20A-6 be big enough to clean up the property and push over trees that are probably 8-10 inches in diameter?

shouldabeen
03-27-2011, 08:10 PM
cedar yes oak sometimes a little harder pine and cedar no problems jmo

holeworx
04-04-2011, 06:45 PM
hi.i have searched and read heaps of threads and havnt found what im after.i have a komatsu D21s-5 crawler loader.does anyone know if the track chains are interchangeable with anything ?i have been told that PC60 could but havnt been able to find any track chain daimentions to compare

country boy
04-04-2011, 10:42 PM
update... changed out shifter cable and adjusted linkage and behold i have 2 forward and 2 reverse........ran it all weekend,, im lovin my D21 right now..

Adios, CB

Gino1019
04-06-2011, 10:23 AM
Have an older komatsu d21. will move in low idle, will not move in high speed. any suggestions?

shouldabeen
04-06-2011, 08:18 PM
would like to sell f600 flat bed w/2000gal water truck w/2 pumps,Komatsu D21-p7 45hp 5ton joystick control 6way blade bulldozer,David Brown tractor 40hp w/disk, CRF 450 08yr 56hr w/gear Aria helmet(s),Tech10 size 9,one ind combo, Oakley crowbar nib....$19500
www.lancastercompound.com
lancastercompound@live.com

Danny B
04-07-2011, 04:02 PM
Can anyone tell me or provide photo of what should be included at the bottom ball or swivel connection of the blade on my D21? There is a lot of play here. I can not get the grease zerk to take grease either. Removed the zerk and it is ok. What is the zerk supposed to lub?

Country Boy from Wagoner - Is you dozer a shuttle shift? I have suttle shift and my lever is getting stiff. I can get into all gears but it used to be real easy to move. I'm wondering if I have same problem?
Thanks.

shouldabeen
04-07-2011, 09:20 PM
[QUOTE=Danny B;292430]Can anyone tell me or provide photo of what should be included at the bottom ball or swivel connection of the blade on my D21? There is a lot of play here. I can not get the grease zerk to take grease either. Removed the zerk and it is ok. What is the zerk supposed to lub?

A trunnion Ball ?
you will have to remove the cap bolts and cap and get the torch and lube out and everything else that will help remove the old grease its a time consuming job but you will find the grease should exit into the front and rear of the ball lubing it so the metal to metal is not as intrusive.

country boy
04-08-2011, 11:13 PM
Danny B
pull the floor plate and disconect the shifter cable then try and move the cable if its still hard you will need a new cable. kirby smith in tulsa can get it for you. take your old cable in and match it up there are 2 different lengths at least there was for mine. my cable cost $185.00 shure is nice to operate with new cable on it..
good luck,CB

country boy
04-08-2011, 11:22 PM
Gino , i would make shure your shifter cables are adjusted properly,may not be going all the way in high gear or maybe check fluid levels, those are the easy ideas. remove floor plate so you can see what your shifter is doing .

good luck,CB

country boy
04-08-2011, 11:29 PM
here is a great place to look up parts for those of us who dont have books on our dozers..

http://www.komatsupartsbook.com/

TomCs
04-11-2011, 12:45 PM
Hi folks,

I just bought an older (70's) D20P and am looking for a service/shop manual. Anyone have one for sale or know where I may find one?

Thank you
TomCs

machineman
04-11-2011, 05:04 PM
I've posted about this issue before but now the problem has gotten lots worse. Now it barely steers when pulling either lever. The machine stops when I pull the lever and sometimes makes a moaning noise underneath. Also the brake pedal isn't doing much. It used to only happen after it warmed up. I pulled the left and right steering case plugs under the machine and each side drained over a couple quarts each. These plugs have not been checked in years. Suppossed to be dry? Also I've tried adjusting the bands from under those covers at the back of the machine. Tried 1, 2, 4, and 5 turns out. Neither of those postions improved the issue, just made the brake and levers max stroke change.

Any suggestions? Machine has about 2900hrs on it.

Thanks..

HDPSCORP
04-13-2011, 10:12 PM
1991 Komatsu D20P-6

Hello folks,

I was having a problem with the oil pressure light coming on my Dozer, I installed a new oil pressure sender (Komatsu part) and the light still coming on, I like to test the engine pressure so I went to my local auto parts store and the guy said that first I had to find out how much pressure this engine should read, does anyone know what the normal pressure should be? or the best method to measure it? I imagine that I need a pressure gage and connector with the metric hook up and hook it where the pressure sender is now?

Right now, when I turn the engine on the low pressure light will be on and off and will turn off if I depress the clutch every time, but will comes on/off again if I move the dozer around

The engine only smokes at start, after a few minutes no smoke at all...unless when I accelerate hard and I see some black smoke puffs initially and clears.

I have change the engine oil couple times, seems like right after the change the light stays off but after a few hours it starts coming on again and the new oil is very dark already.

I would greatly appreciate if someone could give me some pointers on this.

Ed

shouldabeen
04-15-2011, 07:24 AM
http://s695.photobucket.com/albums/vv315/LancasterCompound/?action=view&current=DSCN1324.mp4

darinray
04-18-2011, 04:11 PM
Contact me Ed by clicking my link so we can talk about this. I just would like to know more info and it's faster by phone.

machineman
04-18-2011, 09:31 PM
I've posted about this issue before but now the problem has gotten lots worse. Now it barely steers when pulling either lever. The machine stops when I pull the lever and sometimes makes a moaning noise underneath. Also the brake pedal isn't doing much. It used to only happen after it warmed up. I pulled the left and right steering case plugs under the machine and each side drained over a couple quarts each. These plugs have not been checked in years. Suppossed to be dry? Also I've tried adjusting the bands from under those covers at the back of the machine. Tried 1, 2, 4, and 5 turns out. Neither of those postions improved the issue, just made the brake and levers max stroke change.

Any suggestions? Machine has about 2900hrs on it.

Thanks..

OK, so I'm thinking that the brake bands are still good becuase I get lots of pedal back when I adjust them. So likely problem is either worn out steering clutches or the cluthes are totally oil soaked and just slip. Is there any chance in cleaning and recovering oil soaked friction plates? Anyone know what the wear limits (thickness) are for the friction and drive plates. Looks like I will need to open it up and inspect them. Hopefully I can take them out without a complete disassemble of the back drivetrain.

darinray
04-18-2011, 09:42 PM
Sounds like you are making progress. When they get oil soaked you are better off replacing them because you already are in there and DON'T want to do it again I'm sure. :) Contact me so I can set you up with parts and manuals. :)

JimInOz
04-18-2011, 11:14 PM
Machineman,
I'm sure Darin has suggested that you need to find the source of the oil leaks.I assume your Bevel seals need renewing...along with bevel oil.

Jim

machineman
04-19-2011, 08:16 PM
Machineman,
I'm sure Darin has suggested that you need to find the source of the oil leaks.I assume your Bevel seals need renewing...along with bevel oil.

Jim

Yep, Over the past couple years I've added more than a couple quarts to the bevel case fill tube. Final drives are still full on both sides. Is it posible to pull the clutches and seals without a complete teardown? If the weather is decent I might open it up next weekend.

jeepinmatt
04-23-2011, 09:34 PM
Having a problem with my D21-A5. I used it to do some gravel-moving on my neighbors driveway, which is a steep hill (50-80% grade). No noticeable problems. Parked the dozer. I cranked it up a couple days later, and there was a strange whining noise. I put it in 1st to go forward, and nothing happened. Sometimes it does this when its cold, but after waiting 30 seconds or so, I became concerned. It finally moved, but very hesitantly and intermittently. I got it to a good spot and checked all the fluid levels. Blade hydraulics were a little low but, everything else was fine. I spent some more time playing around with it and here's a synopsis of the symptoms:
1. Whining noise when in neutral, but goes away when in gear
2. Moves fairly well at low rpms, can even push a pile of dirt
3. Steers properly
4. Inching pedal and brake work properly
5. Works better in 2nd gear than 1st, regardless of direction
6. If moving at low rpms, and then transitioning to higher rpms, it loses drive at somepoint around 1/2-full throttle
7. The whining noise returns as rpms climb

Anybody got any ideas? I pull the directional and inching valve off the top of the transmission and inspected it, everything looks great. Not sure where to go next.

Thanks in advance.

David G
04-26-2011, 05:52 PM
Hi there I am new to this forum and was wondering if some one could help me out with the type of oil/ fluid that my hitachi DX40 dozer will take in the front oil resevoir located under the floor panel. I have a light on the control panel which shows a sprocket and a oil drop and I now have no drive in any direction. Thanks in advance
Dave

paruss
04-28-2011, 11:29 AM
i have a d20a-5 serial number is 57045 can anyone tell whatr year model this is.

paruss
04-28-2011, 11:51 AM
try SSB Tractor [sales@ssbtractor.com] That where I found mime.

Tommy
04-30-2011, 02:29 PM
The steering on my D37P has always been a little weak. Now, the left steering is completely gone. Recently, the the left chain went slack (track adjuster seal went out) when I was in a ditch and leaned on the stick for left steering really hard and pumped the brake to try to get the machine to turn left. It wouldn't turn out of the ditch and now I don't have any left steering. I fixed the track adjuster so the chain stays tight and I can see the linkage under the seat moving when i push the stick to the left, and the motor lugs down, but no left turn. Right steering works ok, but sometimes I have to pump the brake a little to get the right steering to activate. I've messed with the brake band adjustments a little but no joy. What's wrong with it? Thanks, Tommy

machineman
05-04-2011, 09:26 PM
OK, so I'm thinking that the brake bands are still good becuase I get lots of pedal back when I adjust them. So likely problem is either worn out steering clutches or the cluthes are totally oil soaked and just slip. Is there any chance in cleaning and recovering oil soaked friction plates? Anyone know what the wear limits (thickness) are for the friction and drive plates. Looks like I will need to open it up and inspect them. Hopefully I can take them out without a complete disassemble of the back drivetrain.

So I started taking it apart and was wondering what I'm in for with these hydraulic lines? Is this some kind of Hydraulic assist and does it just pull out?

79393

fazle
05-08-2011, 09:04 AM
Have the same issue with leaky cylinders to lift blade - did you resolve your issue?

fazle
05-08-2011, 09:19 AM
New here.

Recently bought used Komatsu D21A6 3800 hours. So far, I love this machine.
When I bought it, there were no visible hydraulic leaks.
After working the unit pretty hard, I now have severe leaks in the cylinders that lift and lower the blade.
What started out as a small drip is now a small stream.

Any advice on what I need to do?

Thank you

FurakawaMatt
05-08-2011, 11:34 AM
New here.

Recently bought used Komatsu D21A6 3800 hours. So far, I love this machine.
When I bought it, there were no visible hydraulic leaks.
After working the unit pretty hard, I now have severe leaks in the cylinders that lift and lower the blade.
What started out as a small drip is now a small stream.

Any advice on what I need to do?

Thank you

Sounds like they need rebuilt. You should be able to find a place that does hydraulic cylinder repair by asking equipment dealers in your area.

fazle
05-08-2011, 02:14 PM
Sounds like they need rebuilt. You should be able to find a place that does hydraulic cylinder repair by asking equipment dealers in your area.

Thank you - I will check into that this week. Any ideas on what it may cost? Do I need to remove them and take them somewhere? How easy to remove and what should I be careful of if I do need to remove?

darinray
05-08-2011, 05:05 PM
Yes that is the hydraulic lines that disengage the steering clutches. They will remove from the machine easily enough with some bolts. Hope this go well with you and contact me anytime.

darinray
05-08-2011, 05:10 PM
Thank you - I will check into that this week. Any ideas on what it may cost? Do I need to remove them and take them somewhere? How easy to remove and what should I be careful of if I do need to remove?

They are not that bad to rebuild with just some elbow grease. If you need some assistance contact me and I'll see what I can do. I'm not sure if the service manual has a very good description on how they are done but I can walk you through it.

Tommy
05-17-2011, 11:01 AM
Replace the seals on my angle cylinders, on my D37. I unhooked the shaft from the blade, removed the shaft and cylinder from the dozer and rebuilt it in my shop. Very simple procedure of replacing the seals. Komatsu had a seal kit that had everything I needed.

g_man
05-22-2011, 05:16 PM
I don't know if this belongs here but here goes. I am the proud new owner of a Dresser TD7G. I would like to know who the actual manufacturer of the motor was. The previous owner says cummins but I don't know. I couldn't find any info on the Web. The engine tag says:
Komatsu Dresser
Libertyville, Illonois
Made in USA
KDC Model 410/240N
KDC P/N 1237736H91H
engine S/N 44475494

Thanks - I am greatful for this forum. You guys have been a big help.

oldhousehugger
05-23-2011, 06:01 PM
I am the owner of a D20PL-6A which is now down with a bad starter/alternator combo and a stuck wet clutch.
I decided to tear into the 24 volt alternator because a new one is (reman) $150 plus aftermarket. The starter they are even more proud of at $750 plus.
My starter needs a bendix / clutch. the motor seems OK. I have rebuilt Delco starters and alternators and find parts and rebuild kits readily available.
Not so for Nikko / Komatsu starter motors. For instance the rectifier for the Delco 10 DN alternator is $27. I can't even find a parts breakdown of Nikki motors, let alone replacement components. Oh yeh I could spend the green and pay Komatsu's prices but I'd so much rather rebuild it myself and have the satisfaction of knowing I kept the labor here. I know they are rebuilding this stuff here in the states but where can I access the aftermarket replacement parts?

oldhousehugger
05-23-2011, 06:35 PM
New here.

Recently bought used Komatsu D21A6 3800 hours. So far, I love this machine.
When I bought it, there were no visible hydraulic leaks.
After working the unit pretty hard, I now have severe leaks in the cylinders that lift and lower the blade.
What started out as a small drip is now a small stream.

Any advice on what I need to do?

Thank you

As stated earlier you can find any number of cylinder rebuilders in Dallas. I would suggest buying the seals from the outfit that they buy their parts from and doing it yourself.

http://www.hddistributors.com/econnect/shop.aspx

These guys have a good website and a very knowledgeable counter crew and can get r done. H&D distributors are on Irving Blvd in Dallas. There is a great bearing distributor right across the street and hose fabricators within a mile of mockingbird and Irving Blvd. I just finished rebuilding the control valves for my Ford 4500 Backhoe and bought all the orings etc there. And now no leaks from that department.

John

RRRancher
06-03-2011, 11:21 AM
Howdy to everyone from Texas. This is my first post in this forum, and hopefully won't be the last if things work out. I have read everything up to page 45, and will finish reading the rest this weekend. This is an extremely informative forum, and I feel like I could get help here with anything needed in the future. Thanks to all you contributors for taking the time to post all the helpful information here.

I would like to know if anyone here has had any dealings, good or bad, with a business in Sulphur Springs, Texas that sells used Komatsu equipment called KTOO Equipment Sales, with a web address of www.holedigger.net? I have found a Komatsu dozer there that looks promising, but I know nothing about the business. Anyone?

oldhousehugger
06-03-2011, 12:42 PM
Howdy to everyone from Texas. This is my first post in this forum, and hopefully won't be the last if things work out. I have read everything up to page 45, and will finish reading the rest this weekend. This is an extremely informative forum, and I feel like I could get help here with anything needed in the future. Thanks to all you contributors for taking the time to post all the helpful information here.

I would like to know if anyone here has had any dealings, good or bad, with a business in Sulphur Springs, Texas that sells used Komatsu equipment called KTOO Equipment Sales, with a web address of www.holedigger.net? I have found a Komatsu dozer there that looks promising, but I know nothing about the business. Anyone?

I bought a D20PL-6A from him in 2007. the undercarriage was rusted out and the left steering clutch weak. I did not operate it in the dirt as I should have to find those things out before I bought. Shame on me. He offered no guarantees with mine and the trucking pretty much assured I wouldn't take it back. He is strictly an importer and offers no service to speak of. He has been doing it for a long enough time so that I would guess he hasn't had to many angry customers. His deal is to back the machine out of the container and make sure it runs. Kind of like buying at an equipment auction but with a set asking price.

That said after I have repaired a bunch of stuff on the machine it is now a little work horse. I wish it had a ROPS on it instead of the stupid plastic rain cover which vibrates like the dickens.
John in Dallas

struckzb
06-04-2011, 12:54 AM
I don't know if this belongs here but here goes. I am the proud new owner of a Dresser TD7G. I would like to know who the actual manufacturer of the motor was. The previous owner says cummins but I don't know. I couldn't find any info on the Web. The engine tag says:
Komatsu Dresser
Libertyville, Illonois
Made in USA
KDC Model 410/240N
KDC P/N 1237736H91H
engine S/N 44475494

Thanks - I am greatful for this forum. You guys have been a big help.

G-man,
The earlier Dresser TD7C/E's were German made D-206, and D239 engines. Yours is quite a bit newer, so I believe the Cummins 3.9 is what's in it.

Hope this helps,
Zack

RRRancher
06-04-2011, 01:17 AM
I appreciate your comments, sir. I have read all of your posts here, along with everyone else's. It is unbelievable how much help some of these guys give on this website, especially Darin. I sure wish he was here in Texas instead of up in the cold north land.

On my previous post, I had read up to page 45 before bedtime last night. Today when I got home from work, I started reading again and on the very next page was a post about KTOO and it was not one that spoke well of them at all.

I was up there in April and looked at a D20, but didn't have enough time to check it very well. I am going back up there next week to run it and check some other things. When I called him earlier this week, he said his mechanic had just finished working on the drives and said it was ready to go. I will give it a good test run and see how it does.

I have a 50 acre tree farm that has way too many sweetgums in the 1 to 6 inch diameter range and need to be cleared. It's too much for my small utility tractor so I'm thinking this little Komatsu will be ideal for it.

If anyone else has any dealings with KTOO, please let me know of your experiences also. I would appreciate it greatly.

g_man
06-04-2011, 06:45 AM
G-man,
The earlier Dresser TD7C/E's were German made D-206, and D239 engines. Yours is quite a bit newer, so I believe the Cummins 3.9 is what's in it.

Hope this helps,
Zack

Thanks - Definitely helps.

oldhousehugger
06-04-2011, 05:17 PM
I appreciate your comments, sir. I have read all of your posts here, along with everyone else's. It is unbelievable how much help some of these guys give on this website, especially Darin. I sure wish he was here in Texas instead of up in the cold north land.

On my previous post, I had read up to page 45 before bedtime last night. Today when I got home from work, I started reading again and on the very next page was a post about KTOO and it was not one that spoke well of them at all.

I was up there in April and looked at a D20, but didn't have enough time to check it very well. I am going back up there next week to run it and check some other things. When I called him earlier this week, he said his mechanic had just finished working on the drives and said it was ready to go. I will give it a good test run and see how it does.

I have a 50 acre tree farm that has way too many sweetgums in the 1 to 6 inch diameter range and need to be cleared. It's too much for my small utility tractor so I'm thinking this little Komatsu will be ideal for it.

If anyone else has any dealings with KTOO, please let me know of your experiences also. I would appreciate it greatly.

The D20pl-6A machine I bought is a wide pyramid track straight blade. ( It tilts down to either side but will not pivot left right.) That is not helpful when you need to finish grade which is what it was really designed for. It is an older 3 speed model and First gear is not really low enough for heavy pushing. I have grubbed trees out with it but that entails digging all around the root ball and then trying to push it over.
I had to weld grousers onto the worn out pyramids to get any traction at all in clay. I put a 1 inch wide grouser on every other one, however every third one would have been better because the tracks need to slip a little rather than kill the engine. Also mud is your enemy with the D20 and wide tracks. At times it was all I could do to get the machine to move in 1st gear when it got loaded up with black clay mud.

If I were to do it again ( and I had too much money) I would want at least a D35 with a hydrostatic trany and a blade that pivots left and right. The bigger machine with the extra horsepower and weight and a stronger under carriage would be better suited to tree clearing and pond digging.
The D20-21's are a light finish grade machine. I haven't broken mine yet even though I do a lot of heavy pushing but I am very careful and listen for those telltale noises which might mean trouble. By the way I did hire a CAT D7 to hog out the deep hole for the pond then I spent a week cleaning up the mess he left with my little D20 putt putt and lots of patience.

Happy motoring
John

g_man
06-04-2011, 08:12 PM
My Dresser TD7G specifies API CC/CD SAE-10W engine oil for use in the Hydraulic System which is separate from the transmission and torque converter. In a footnote it says the 10W oil used in the hydraulic system must pass the NO-2 test. Can anybody tell me what the NO-2 test is ? Does this make it special oil or can I use any good quality API CC/CD SAE-10W engine oil. Thanks.

g_man
06-05-2011, 11:21 AM
I should have said TO-2 Test instead of NO-2 in the above post. Couldn't see an edit button ?

RRRancher
06-06-2011, 09:32 AM
More good info there John. The dozer I'm looking at has the standard grousers. I don't have any mud or that black gumbo that seems to be everywhere near Dallas. My ranch has red clay and sand and lots of gravel and clay mixed together. There are two gravel areas with literally tons of gravel embedded in the clay. I can easily rip it up with my box blade scarifiers and then push it into piles . I built a homemade sifter to separate the gravel out of the clay and. although it takes a little time, it will produce piles of gravel for me. The dozer should help with that project.

I plan to build a pond also. I have a friend who owns a dozer service and he is going to bring his D6 and track hoe in to do the major work, like you had done. Then I'll finish it up with the Komatsu, if I get it, and my tractor and box blade. This is a project I have been planning for over 40 years. I helped build a pond with my neighbor when I was 17 years old using a Ford tractor and a disc and straight blade. I had a blast doing it and vowed I would someday build my own. I'm in no big hurry to get it done. It's going to be my retirement project, along with maintaining the tree farm.

Good luck on your pond. Looks like you got a great start on it. By the way, I was flying back from our office in Addison on the company plane one day and saw a neat looking pond north of Mesquite that was shaped like the state of Texas. I wish I could do one of those too, but the terrain is not right for that shape. When I get rights to post pictures, I'll put the picture up that I took of it.

RRRancher
06-06-2011, 10:37 AM
I got upload privs now, so here is the picture.

http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n585/RRRancher/P1060750.jpg

monkey
06-06-2011, 11:07 AM
I have a d31, in the process of building a pond on my property in Mississippi. The dozer came with those pyramid shoes, I swapped them out for single grosers shoes, day and night difference. There are areas in the pond that has that black gumbo mud, the machine "floats" much better than when it had the pyramid shoes on. Before it would just ooze up between the shoes and start sinking.
When pushing that mud I found it takes making light loads or it will bog down or lose traction, stuff is just nasty to work with. Even with 2 months of no rain there are areas where the ground is just like a big sponge. I assume it's ground water coming up. I've cut some big trenches to try and help drain some of it to the lower portion of the area

RRRancher
06-06-2011, 02:19 PM
I hear ya about that gumbo mud, Monkey. It's some nasty stuff, especially when wet. I had the displeasure of working in it many moons ago in south Louisiana and will never forget how it oozed into everything that touched it. I can't imagine trying to run a dozer in that stuff, no matter what type shoes it has on it. If you have ground water coming up into it, maybe you can use it to your advantage to keep your pond full. My pond will, unfortunately, not have any constant feed on it. It will be a watershed pond that has about seven acres of pasture draining into it. I'm hoping that will be enough to keep it pretty full between rains.

I'm heading out tomorrow to go check out the dozer at KTOO in Sulphur Springs. I need to read some of the posts here again to make sure I take the right tools needed for inspection of different things. I hope it checks out ok. I'm anxious to get it and start doing some dirt work. Thanks again to all who have posted here. It is a wealth of information.

monkey
06-06-2011, 03:22 PM
yea it's nasty, well like I said it's been 2 months without rain, hmmm still managed to stick it Saturday :Banghead


yeah water shouldn't be a problem

80747

you know you have water when these try and climb aboard with ya :)
80748

RRRancher
06-06-2011, 05:47 PM
Yep, that's one thing I definitely don't miss about Louisiana and Mississippi is the snakes. I grew up in South Louisiana and if I never see another moccasin, I'll be just fine. I've been going out to my tree farm for a little over a year now and have only seen one snake so far, and it was just a little rat snake.

I notice the tracks of the dozer in that bottom picture are packed full of gumbo. It's as if it had glue in it. :-) Good luck on your pond.

monkey
06-06-2011, 09:33 PM
Lol, I'm actually in my excavator, yeah I've sunk almost to the top of the tracks. It's not bad when you first track out on to it, start doing a little work and it just starts sinking, I was trying to get the trench dug to try and lower the water table. Was able to pull myself out with the bucket, a little to close for comfort though, don't mind sticking the dozer now that I have the excavator out there, just not looking forward to sticking the hoe, lol

RRRancher
06-07-2011, 10:51 PM
Well, I did it. I went to Sulphur Springs today and bought a D20A-6 from KTOO Equipment Sales. I gave it a thorough going over, based on everything I read here. I drove it in the parking lot, then I took it to the play area and dug some dirt with it. Before I fired it up, I checked all the fluid levels and greased all the zerts to make sure they would all accept grease. There were no problems with the fluids, and all the zerts took grease except for the track adjusters. He is going to have his mechanic replace them before it is shipped to my property next week. The mechanic replaced one of the seals in the final drive last week that was leaking. He pulled both drives while he was in it and checked everything. Before it left Japan, the clutch plates, tracks, rollers, sprockets and rails were all replaced. I had no problems driving it and digging dirt while changing directions, so I feel like everything is in good shape.

I have to say that I was very impressed by Mr. John Daugherty, who, along with his wife Tammy, owns and operates KTOO. They treated my wife and I as if we were lifetime friends and went out of their way to fulfill every request we had. He gave me an operations manual and also gave me the complete shop manual to borrow so I can copy it. I am going to take it to a Kinkos and have the entire thing copied so I will be able to do any maintenance needed in the future.

John and Tammy are trying to ease out of the dozer business now due mainly to health and the economy. He is selling everything on the lot and will probably give you a good deal on anything he has left. He has a few D21's, and a D31 or two, plus some excavators. I will, at this time, give them a thumbs up.

Today was my first time on a dozer, and I was surprised at how easy it was to operate. He actually commented on the grading job I did on his parking lot and said he couldn't tell that I had never been on a dozer before. It was easy. Back up with the blade on float a couple of times and you have a pretty smooth surface. :cool2
You're (virtually) looking at one happy camper right now. Can't wait to start moving dirt. Woohooooo! :)

dmccort
06-07-2011, 11:49 PM
D41P-5 Manuals

Hey guys. Another newbie here...
I'm tring to locate operators, parts and service manuals for a Komatsu D41P-5. Grey market.
I'm in New Zealand, the -5 was imported from Japan(not by me, but prior to me purchasing it).
As a result Komatsu Australia/NZ have no english manuals available for it and can only offer limited support due to different safety regs in Australasia.
Basically, they won't help me.
Does anyone in the forum have a copy of these they could scan and send? I'm willing to pay for them.
Any nfo would be appreciated.
Cheers,
Dan.

illinoisboy
07-11-2011, 10:44 PM
anyone know where to find a thermostat for the d20? besides the dealer that is. got part numbers for a napa or carquest thermostat?

JMJ_D31
07-14-2011, 11:59 PM
Hello I'm a new member
I bought my first dozer last week. :) It is a 1985 komatsu D31-P. I have 25 acres that I bought about three years ago and I have a lot of work ahead of me but it should be fun work. Last weekend I started on my two acre dove field in the back of my property. Later I will move to clearing the house site and then the driveway. I hope to have the manual in that I bought on-line next week but in the meantime does anyone know what kind of fluid goes in the three deep stick hole underneath the seat?

steve loving
07-15-2011, 12:00 AM
i have a sprocket press i made for a d41a-3 i might sell if anyone is interested has the ram the tubes and threaded peice that screws on the dead axle

joemorgan
07-16-2011, 03:04 PM
I bought a D21A-6 from KTOO about 4 yrs ago and have put about 850 trouble free hours on it, I cleared a lot of trees, built a root rake for it that works great and moved tons if dirt, I was building a runway here at home and it's finally finished, I think they are great little machines.

JimInOz
07-17-2011, 10:38 PM
HI Guys,
Looking to buy a copy of a BD2H PARTS BOOK ,so if anyone can help,let me know.
Disc or paper copy is OK.I have Paypal.
Thanks,
Jim

bubbagoat
07-18-2011, 09:27 PM
Jim, I'm still looking for one for my BS3F and the BD2G, but if you get one I'd be happy to PDF it for you. I'll keep my eye open, there was one for the bd2g on ebay, but It was too rich for me.

Bubba

GDW
07-19-2011, 11:27 PM
Hope I'm put'n this in the right place. Been a while since I got on this site. I've got an old D20 s -5 track loader. I decided to change the hydraulic oil, and the place where I got the oil recommended this "Special AW 32 Hyd oil". Well, it wasn't but a week or two and all four lift cylinders were leaking, especially when not in use. Don't have any manuals for it, so I didn't know any better. I'm hoping to get some guidance as to how to go about repacking the cylinders. I called the nearest dealer (100 miles) and the guy said he would check on the parts and call me back. Never heard from him. I've read good and bad about aftermarket kits, but don't know where to get'm around here(South Texas). Looks like the rods could be pulled without removing the cylinders, does that sound reasonable?
Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'll be doing the work myself. I'm not a cheapskate,,I'm on Social Security. :)

Dr Komatsu
07-21-2011, 02:22 PM
Komatsu's don't like 32grade hydraulic oil at all. Your machine would most likely of had 10w hydraulic oil in the tank which is the best oil for the machine. Other grades can be used depending on ambient temp usually 15w/40 but it always best to check the operators manual.
Any rod can be pulled out of the cylinder to be resealed then refitted. In my 20+years with Komatsu i've never seen 32grade oil in any Komatsu .H46 is getting more common now on excavators and wheel loaders,but it is not good to mix 10w with H46 oil .

dblaneyfan
07-21-2011, 03:30 PM
Here is an online parts catalog that might provide some help for some of you:

http://www.komatsupartsbook.com/

It does not have all gray market machines listed, but it does have a good bit of info.

JCS

GDW
07-23-2011, 03:52 PM
Hope I'm put'n this in the right place. Been a while since I got on this site. I've got an old D20 s -5 track loader. I decided to change the hydraulic oil, and the place where I got the oil recommended this "Special AW 32 Hyd oil". Well, it wasn't but a week or two and all four lift cylinders were leaking, especially when not in use. Don't have any manuals for it, so I didn't know any better. I'm hoping to get some guidance as to how to go about repacking the cylinders. I called the nearest dealer (100 miles) and the guy said he would check on the parts and call me back. Never heard from him. I've read good and bad about aftermarket kits, but don't know where to get'm around here(South Texas). Looks like the rods could be pulled without removing the cylinders, does that sound reasonable?
Any help would be greatly appreciated. I'll be doing the work myself. I'm not a cheapskate,,I'm on Social Security. :)

Thanks for the reply.
Yeah, that place is not in business any longer. I should have checked further before using that stuff.
What would be the best way to flush the system before refilling with the proper oil? Is it possible to find aftermarket parts to reseal the rods? I didn't have much luck with the nearest dealer, and the next nearest is about 200miles.

GDW
07-23-2011, 03:55 PM
Clicked on the wrong "reply" button,, sorry. The reply was of course intended for Dr. Komatsu.

GDW
07-23-2011, 03:57 PM
Here is an online parts catalog that might provide some help for some of you:

http://www.komatsupartsbook.com/

It does not have all gray market machines listed, but it does have a good bit of info.

JCS

Thanks dblaneyfan, they didn't have the track loader listed, I sent in the request to do so, we'll see what happens. Lots of info there,
Thanks again

steve loving
07-23-2011, 05:02 PM
GDW you can call Hercules hyd. at Seals: 1.800.777.5617 maby they can help. I would mention getting a loaded u cup in your kits if they have them. What the loaded u cup does is when a machine is working the u cup seal is designed to basically swell with hyd pressure. The higher the pressure the harder it seals. When its not running the u cups relax and oil can bypass in the head end of a cylinder. You see this a lot in track hoes not running with the bucket cylinder in the vertical position. The loaded cup has a plastic ring inserted in it to keep it tensioned even when not running. Steve

joemorgan
07-24-2011, 04:38 PM
my D20A-6 calls for motor oil in the hydraulics, you can call 903-639-2765, he should have the seals you need, good luck

monkey
07-24-2011, 07:06 PM
I do believe the AW 32 is 10 weight

jyarbrough
07-24-2011, 11:02 PM
Hello everyone. Need some help. I have a Komatsu D20-p that will no longer turn to the left. I have got some help and accessed the rear brakes and adjusted the left side. It still will not turn without tapping the brake pedal first and then it will turn perfect. Should I replace the brake clutches or something? Also had some older folks to tell me to add a washer to the adjustment bolt. Has anyone ever heard this. The right side works perfect. Machine has about 2500 hours. Any advise is appreciated.

Thanks.

jyarbrough
07-24-2011, 11:05 PM
Sorry, Machine is a D20P-7

GDW
07-24-2011, 11:33 PM
Does it "lug" the engine down a little when you pull the left brake? Could be the steering clutches are not disengaging?

GDW
07-25-2011, 10:47 AM
Thanks monkey. I have no way of knowing if that oil caused a problem or not but, even if it's 10wt, it may have additives that komatsu's don't like. I have worked the little loader pretty hard at times clearing brush, and a few stumps that had it standing on it's nose, but it's strange that it never leaked until right after I changed out the oil. I'm gonna flush the system with 10wt and refill after re sealing the rods.

GDW
07-25-2011, 10:50 AM
Thanks steve, I checked out their website,, looks like a good place to keep in mind. I'll call'em.

jford
07-28-2011, 10:11 AM
I am unable to read serial number on d21p. The plate is located on the right side in front of the hydraulic holding tank. Is there any place else on machine where these numbers may be.
That's all I can read is Model # D21P below that is serial number which is completely worn off due to climbing in and out of machine. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

darinray
07-28-2011, 01:57 PM
jford, there is a serial number stamped in the chassis of the left side looking at teh back of the machine by the hitch...upper left hand corner where the bolts holes with cork are located..... Hope this helps..

jford
07-28-2011, 05:41 PM
Thank you for the quick response.

jyarbrough
08-03-2011, 11:12 PM
Does it "lug" the engine down a little when you pull the left brake? Could be the steering clutches are not disengaging?

Nope, no lug when i pull the the lever to the left. And there is no lug when I tap the break. Works perfect by taping the break and pushing the lever to the left.

RichardPK
08-20-2011, 06:39 AM
Hi guys my D21P-7 has a leak around the lift (primer) pump, it seems that the lift tube rattles loos then fuel leaks up around the pump tube, I assime there is an o ring in there and it is worn, can you tell me how to replace the o ring

Dozer

willie59
08-20-2011, 10:17 AM
Hi guys my D21P-7 has a leak around the lift (primer) pump, it seems that the lift tube rattles loos then fuel leaks up around the pump tube, I assime there is an o ring in there and it is worn, can you tell me how to replace the o ring

Dozer


Hi RichardPK, not sure what kind of fitting connection you're working with, any way you can post a pic of it?

chevydiggs
08-20-2011, 05:00 PM
ATCO

i am new to the forum but what i have read you have devoted several hours to helping people on here thats awesome, i posted on an older thread that someone started on a D31P-16 engine build cause im new and cant start a thread yet but was wondering about my dozer hydraulic oil, its a D31P-16 as well, i pinched a hydrualic hose and ran a bit before finding and replacing it, added some hydraulic fluid and have only ran it a few minutes to check hose since but i put hydraulic fluid back in it and after reading on here some not sure if that was the right fluid or not, and also wondering if there was a dipstick for the hydraulic fluid or just the bullseye glass below the right arm rest, and at what level should it be, thanks

Frank Dozer
08-24-2011, 07:35 AM
I have a Komatsu D21A-5. Where can I purchase new or used track adjusters complete with springs and cylinders. Thanks, Frank

why165
08-24-2011, 07:30 PM
can someone please tell me what the vin numbers say this dozer it. serial number 62307. i just bought this thing for a really good deal and now i need to know what it is i bought.
thanks
matt

g_man
08-24-2011, 08:51 PM
I have a Komatsu D21A-5. Where can I purchase new or used track adjusters complete with springs and cylinders. Thanks, Frank

I rebuilt the track adjusters on my Dresser TD7G. Komatsu purchased Dresser I believe and I am able to get parts from Anderson Equipment. The one closest to me in Montpelier, VT is a Komatsu dealer. I think they all are. They have a branch in Bangor and a web site. I would try there for new or Nash in Colebrook, NH for used if you are near there.

cblank
08-29-2011, 05:39 PM
I have a D21p-6. The left steering clutch started sticking if I let it set over a week, so I started tying the clutch lever back when not in use. That worked good for a while, but now, sometimes, the left clutch is noisey. If I hold both steering clutchs back at the same time, sometimes I can feel a "bump" every time the left clutch turns a revolution. I know the sticking was probably caused by rust on the plates, but does anyone know what the bumping could be? Sometimes it seems to bind also.
Thanks, cblank

monkey
08-30-2011, 02:18 AM
ATCO

i am new to the forum but what i have read you have devoted several hours to helping people on here thats awesome, i posted on an older thread that someone started on a D31P-16 engine build cause im new and cant start a thread yet but was wondering about my dozer hydraulic oil, its a D31P-16 as well, i pinched a hydrualic hose and ran a bit before finding and replacing it, added some hydraulic fluid and have only ran it a few minutes to check hose since but i put hydraulic fluid back in it and after reading on here some not sure if that was the right fluid or not, and also wondering if there was a dipstick for the hydraulic fluid or just the bullseye glass below the right arm rest, and at what level should it be, thanks

just the bullseye, fill it under the arm rest
the correct oil baffles a lot of people. I run hydraulic fluid in mine and have for years. I believe most hydraulic fluid is 10w. The manual calls for 10w oil, just doesn't say hydraulic fluid. Rightly or wrongly, everywhere I went and tried to get straight 10w motor oil, counter sales people looked at me like I didn't know what I was yapping bout. I called my Komotsu parts guy, he said hydraulic fluid is fine....dunno, havent had a problem yet

terexkerry
08-30-2011, 06:04 AM
Dan give me a ring I might be able to put you onto someone who knows alot about the D41-5 Phone 0220735562 Cheers terexkerry

K5Cruz
08-30-2011, 07:49 AM
I've got a d21. I set the parking brake and let it sit about a week. The right side brake will not release. The linkage is stuck forward with the petal released, and it just lugs the engine down while in gear. Where should I start looking to remedy this problem? Thanks.

k&g
09-01-2011, 10:32 PM
the one under the seat is for the transfer case theone under the brake pedal is the transmission they both use straight 30 weight motor oil and to tighten your tracks there is a small cover on each side with a bolt in it remove the bolt open the cover and pump grease in the fitting until their tight enough...

Garrie Denny
09-02-2011, 06:23 PM
On the subject of track adjustment. How much curve should there be in the top of the track between top carrier roller and either end track wheels ? I have a fiat 70ci and only has the one top carrier roller, should it be nearly straight without and dip or have a slight dip when adjusted properly, id like to know please. Garrie.

g_man
09-02-2011, 08:24 PM
To tight is not good. To lose is better than to tight. Don't know about your Fiat but as an example on my TD7G which has one top roller and about 6 feet of track on the ground the correct track tension is between 1" and 1 1/2" droop between top roller and front idler when the rest of the track is tight.

Garrie Denny
09-02-2011, 11:06 PM
Thanks very much for the reply,I have a fair bit more than that (approximately80mm) between roller and front idler, rear of the roller to backdrive has about what you have described, I didnt want to over adjust,you see some photos of tracks with no droop either side and to me look way too tight. thanks.

Sabo
09-06-2011, 04:28 AM
Hi guys im new here, i would just like to hear your suggestions ,I am working a D65EX-15 with common rail system does not start, the engine cranks but no smoke comes out, there is no active indication,all resistance in the injector are in normal range,I had already checked also the PCV 1 and 2.Thank you

jeepinmatt
10-03-2011, 03:08 PM
Having a problem with my D21-A5. I used it to do some gravel-moving on my neighbors driveway, which is a steep hill (50-80% grade). No noticeable problems. Parked the dozer. I cranked it up a couple days later, and there was a strange whining noise. I put it in 1st to go forward, and nothing happened. Sometimes it does this when its cold, but after waiting 30 seconds or so, I became concerned. It finally moved, but very hesitantly and intermittently. I got it to a good spot and checked all the fluid levels. Blade hydraulics were a little low but, everything else was fine. I spent some more time playing around with it and here's a synopsis of the symptoms:
1. Whining noise when in neutral, but goes away when in gear
2. Moves fairly well at low rpms, can even push a pile of dirt
3. Steers properly
4. Inching pedal and brake work properly
5. Works better in 2nd gear than 1st, regardless of direction
6. If moving at low rpms, and then transitioning to higher rpms, it loses drive at somepoint around 1/2-full throttle
7. The whining noise returns as rpms climb

Anybody got any ideas? I pull the directional and inching valve off the top of the transmission and inspected it, everything looks great. Not sure where to go next.

Thanks in advance.
Never saw any replies on this, but got the problem solved. Ended up being the cleanable (wire mesh) filter element. It was an easier fix than expected. With the top covers off, take the two 13mm bolts loose at the front bottom left of the transmission. Pop the cover off and catch the 8-15qts of 30wt that will come pouring out. The filter will likely wash out with the oil.

Once I got the filter out, it was covered with grit, grime, and what looked like old gasket material from something. I sprayed it down with PB Blaster, then Carb cleaner, then water hose, then PB Blaster, then Carb cleaner. Looked a lot better so I gave it a gentle rubbing with a wire brush, then repeated the spraying process a couple of times.

Assembly is the opposite of disassembly, but make sure you put the filter in with the open end facing out. If you don't, you'll have to get a really strong magnet and pull it back out (ask me how I know). Add a couple of quarts of oil, and then run it a little to circulate everything around before topping off.

Previously, when I put it in gear, it would hesitate from 5-15seconds before starting to move. After cleaning the filter, as soon as I put it in gear, it jumped forward, and is now moving more consistently and better than ever.

Also, if you are thinking about replacing the filter, get a price first. Local dealer quoted me somewhere around $300. Fortunately they were knowledgeable (and nice) enough to tell me it could be easily cleaned.

wsw
10-03-2011, 05:56 PM
Its a strainer so yes it can be cleaned, I got a question though. What does your neighbour drive? 50 - 80 percent grade is pretty damn steep

jeepinmatt
10-03-2011, 09:58 PM
Its a strainer so yes it can be cleaned, I got a question though. What does your neighbour drive? 50 - 80 percent grade is pretty damn steep
A variety of vehicles: All wheel drive SUV (no problems), Rear wheel drive truck (gets a running start, spins all the way up), and Front wheel drive car (gets a running start, and doesn't spin MOST of the time), hahaha. The best part is that he is a grading contractor and has the equipment to fix it, but has been living there for almost a decade as it is.

jyarbrough
10-09-2011, 10:55 PM
Well my little D20p-7 still does not turn left without tapping the break. So after reading all the post, I checked the drain plug on the left underneath the rear and about a quart of oil or dope poured out. I proceeded in letting all the fluid drain and then cranked the dozer and it turned perfect. So what are the next steps to fixing the problem. I am assuming from all the post that there is probably a seal leaking. Is this something I can fix and what are the steps or pictures to fixing this.

Again, thanks for all the wonderful posts on this forum, I have learned a great deal about these little dozers.

Jimmy

wsw
10-10-2011, 10:58 AM
Garrie Denny , G-man is right. the best way to check the track tension is to move the machine forward and let it roll to a stop, prefferably have a grouser stop directly above your carrier roller. Lay something straight ( 2x4 or piece of steel ) across that grouser and down over the front idler. Then step on the track ( to remove the slack from behind the carrier roller ) if you have to and midway between the carrier roller and front idler measure from your straight piece of down to the top of another grouser. 1 1/4" would be right for a machine that size but remember it varies with the type of material you are working in ( go a bit looser with material that packs in the tracks )

mbr06
10-18-2011, 11:29 PM
have a d20 key will not turn the injection pump on or engage starter injection shut off solenoid ticks when i turn key but will not turn on pump also will not turn over with key i had to unhook injection shut off and cross solenoid to get it fired any ideas?? thanks

Chief Jim
10-20-2011, 09:48 PM
Hi Guys. I saw a post that said the Komatsu line has 1000 / 540 rpm PTO and 3 point hitch set ups. How about some photos/ prints/part numbers/ stories? I am the guy with the D3b mounting a Brown Tree Cutter. I am always open to something that could improve the idea.
Thanks,
Jim

mitch504
10-20-2011, 11:10 PM
They don't, there are a couple posts in this thread about people wanting them, or wanting to make them, and a couple guys have.

Frank Dozer
10-21-2011, 03:04 PM
I have a 1985 Komatsu D21A-5 Dozer. I need both the left and right track adjusters. That would be the cylinders with the grease fittings. I could also use the frames. If you want to sell them let me know. Thanks, Frank

millstream
10-24-2011, 09:58 AM
Hello.

I have a Komatsu D21a 2 speed dozer. The cable that shifts it from neutral to 1st and second is broke. I can't find a replacement but have found the cable that shifts it from forward to reverse. Does anyone know if these are the same cables?

Thanks-Scott

Frank Dozer
10-30-2011, 12:15 PM
Well, On my Komatsu D21A-5, I have looked everywhere for the track adjuster cylinders and found nothing. Since my cylinders leak, I either sell the machine for parts or find an inovative way to fix it. Has anyone devised a way to adjust the tracks another way? My machine only has 1800 hours and runs new. Shame to part it out or scrap it. Any Takers? Machine is in Hanover, Massachusetts Email me for a picture.

FurakawaMatt
10-30-2011, 12:49 PM
Well, On my Komatsu D21A-5, I have looked everywhere for the track adjuster cylinders and found nothing. Since my cylinders leak, I either sell the machine for parts or find an inovative way to fix it. Has anyone devised a way to adjust the tracks another way? My machine only has 1800 hours and runs new. Shame to part it out or scrap it. Any Takers? Machine is in Hanover, Massachusetts Email me for a picture.Just a thought.
Use a horizontal hydraulic jack/ram between the spring and front idler yoke. You would have to cut away some things or you might even come up with a simple screw and pin setup. So long as the spring is left in to move for shock take up, something could be made up I would think. Creative machining and welding.

Frank Dozer
10-30-2011, 02:03 PM
That';s a good thought. I just checked with Harbor Freight's web site for a bottle jack. I'd have to remove / unbolt / burn off all the track adjuster frame, leave the end of the frame for that one idler. Then cut the Yoke shaft to about 6", insert that end into a short lenght of pipe, insert the bottle jack neck into the other end of the pipe. I'd need to use part of the idler bracket to hold a plate for the end of the bottle jack. Do you think I really need the shock spring?

FurakawaMatt
10-30-2011, 02:15 PM
You will want to leave the spring so that the idler can move back with loading. A bottle jack will not work in a horizontal direction only vertical. It would take a ram like you see on the 10 ton manual wood splitter that HF sells. Or heck one of those short rams from a porta power type kit could be inserted with some way to lock it after adjusting.

Frank Dozer
10-30-2011, 02:25 PM
Northern Tool sells horizontal rams that I think could work, all different tons and lenghts. Because I don't know, why does the idler need to move with the load? What would happen if the idler was fixed with no spring? The first dozers didn't have springs.

FurakawaMatt
10-30-2011, 02:46 PM
Northern Tool sells horizontal rams that I think could work, all different tons and lenghts. Because I don't know, why does the idler need to move with the load? What would happen if the idler was fixed with no spring? The first dozers didn't have springs.Could work, but I think it would be better if the unit was set to work like it was designed with just something else in place for taking up the slack. There should be some room on the push out rod for cut out and insertion. I have never tried doing this so it is just total brain storming. If you get it to work I am sure others will be interested in your method.

Frank Dozer
10-30-2011, 05:05 PM
Since my track adjuster assembly is all rusted and corroded up on my Komatsu D21A-5, does anyone have a picture of their assembly hopefully not rusted and corroded like mine........Thanks,
Frank

FurakawaMatt
10-30-2011, 06:18 PM
Don't know how close it is to the D31 that I have but here is a Thread that I had when mine needed work. http://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/showthread.php?19175-Stuck-Track-Adjuster-Komatsu-D31P-16&highlight=

Iron@Dirt
10-30-2011, 08:07 PM
Replaced track adjuster on my JD 350 dozer a couple of years ago with after market. It was fabricated flat bar and a tube welded on. A machine shop could make something to work or give you ideas to build it your self, would probably cost more than a bottle jack but might function better. Pictures might help with ideas for a remedy.

Frank Dozer
10-30-2011, 08:16 PM
FurakawaMatt, The D31 track adjusters are the same configuration as the D21 except larger and thanks for the thread. It has lots of valuable info in it.
Iron@Dirt, Is there a picture you can post so as to go with your discription of what you did? Did you keep the springs? And how do you adjust the tracks? The machine shops near me have no ideas but can make anything I can describe or show to them. Thanks, Frank

willie59
10-30-2011, 08:17 PM
Well, On my Komatsu D21A-5, I have looked everywhere for the track adjuster cylinders and found nothing. Since my cylinders leak, I either sell the machine for parts or find an inovative way to fix it.


Why are you condemning your track adjuster cylinders? Maybe I have simply missed it, but I haven't read what the problem is with the cylinders that requires them being replaced?

Frank Dozer
10-30-2011, 08:26 PM
willie59, My track adjuster cylinders and track adjuster frames, both sides, are rusted and corroded beyond use, one spring is broke. It's like only they were in salt water and not the rest of the machine. They are beyond rebuild or repair. It's only the track adjuster assembly that is rusted and corroded. The remainder of the dozer is in unbelievable shape for a 1985. It operates, starts and looks fantastic, that's why I'd rather fix the machine than sell or scrap it. Only 1800 hours. Thanks, Frank

troy26
10-30-2011, 08:36 PM
i got a d21 a -5 and need some info.. so the power shif deal.. is it just reverse and foward? or is there any other ranges.. also. were can i get parts, i need a head gasket , head bolts valve cover gasket and exaust gasket,,, seems its got a crack in the head on the 3rd clyender

willie59
10-30-2011, 09:02 PM
Tell ya what Frank, try calling Kent Baugh, he's worked on many of these machines, might have some ideas and possibly some parts.

http://www.ktbaugh.com/

Frank Dozer
10-30-2011, 09:06 PM
I call Kent several times in the past few weeks. At this time, all he has is the springs. Nothing else.............Thanks, Frank

dblaneyfan
10-31-2011, 08:26 AM
troy 26,

Brandeis is your local Komatsu dealer, might want to check with them. I have dealt with Tractor & Equipment Co. a good bit, mainly the Savannah branch, and they are good people to deal with.

dblaneyfan
10-31-2011, 08:30 AM
willie59, My track adjuster cylinders and track adjuster frames, both sides, are rusted and corroded beyond use, one spring is broke. It's like only they were in salt water and not the rest of the machine. They are beyond rebuild or repair. It's only the track adjuster assembly that is rusted and corroded. The remainder of the dozer is in unbelievable shape for a 1985. It operates, starts and looks fantastic, that's why I'd rather fix the machine than sell or scrap it. Only 1800 hours. Thanks, Frank

Try contacting Southern Tractor Service and Salvage, based out of Davenport, FL.

Frank Dozer
10-31-2011, 09:12 AM
Try contacting Southern Tractor Service and Salvage, based out of Davenport, FL.

I called them and they don't have the parts. But, Thanks for the info. Thanks, Frank

g_man
11-13-2011, 04:05 PM
I havs a Dresser TD7 G. It has a solenoid operated ether injector. I am looking for some instruction on what type of ether cylinder is required and where I might get one if it is special. It looks like there is a bail type arrangement to hold the cylinder up into the solenoid but it is not at all obvious to me how it opens or what type of canister is needed. It must be some kind of plug in there now but not sure of that either. There is no info in my manuals so if you can help I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks

Frank Dozer
11-14-2011, 06:46 AM
I decided to either fix the 1985 Komatsu D21A-5 or scrap it. So I pressure cleaned the track adjusters on both sides. They were in much better condition than I first realized. All the mud made them look really bad. I got my 24" long 1/2" breaker bar and 19mm deep socket. With lots of pressure, both grease fittings for the track adjusters came loose. I installed new grease fittings, put the grease gun on and now both sides take in grease and when loosened, release grease. Checked all the fluids, drove it around the yard and now it runs perfect. I also purchased and installed a 24 volt battery tender for the winter. I'll post pictures later. The machine runs great with no leaks. It has the factory canopy top so I think I'm going to get a ROPS top. Where can I get a ROPS for it? Also, is there a way I can install a 3 point hitch? Thanks, Frank

Iron@Dirt
11-14-2011, 08:31 PM
Gee that was a cheep fix. Can t beat success.

Frank Dozer
11-16-2011, 08:52 PM
Now that my Dozer works good, I'm thinking of ways to use it. Has anyone thought of adding a bucket to their dozer blade to move dirt rather than push dirt. I like the 4 in 1 buck but I don't have the hydraulics for it. I do have plenty of 1/4" plate steel and 2x2x1/4 angle iron. Any ideas?.....Thanks, Frank

Frank Dozer
11-21-2011, 03:00 PM
Well, just when I thought my 1985 Komatsu D21A-5 with shuttle shift trany, 2 speeds forward & 2 speeds reverse, was working good, another problem arises. All the fluids are of the correct SAE and of the correct amount. When pushing dirt forward, the dozer will stop in the dirt and the tracks will stop turning. When not pushing and just driving forward, it drives fine. In reverse, to get into my storage garage there is an 8" tall curb to drive up to the garage concrete pad, it won't make it up, is stops and makes a sound like a spinning clutch in the rear end. If I turn around and try it in forward it goes up the curb no problem. The dozer turns left and right as it is supposed to. Does anyone have any ideas with what's not correct? Thanks, Frank

g_man
11-21-2011, 03:33 PM
Assuming your D21A is set up like most small dozers take the floor boards out so you can see the drive shaft between the T-converter and the Transmission. When the tracks stop if the drive shaft is still turning then you have a problem in the tranny where the gears and clutches are. If the drive shaft stops also the problem is probably in the converter.

From your description it sounds like your forward and reverse clutches may be slipping. Reverse being worse. If you have a manual there may be a test procedure and/or adjustment procedure and there may be a removable access plate for clutch inspection.

Jlicci
11-25-2011, 10:40 PM
New member. I have been following for awhile and learning. I just pulled and repaired both clutches on my d21a6, however I am having problems insallind clluch covers back,is there a trick to this?

Jlicci
11-25-2011, 10:48 PM
New member. I have been following for awhile and learning. I just pulled and repaired both clutches on my d21a6, however I am having problems insallind clluch covers back,is there a trick to this?

Mobilehomie
11-26-2011, 10:19 AM
New member here, I know this will be a dumb question, however, I have ran my new to me Kamatsu d31 out of fuel.
What is the easiest way to prime the pump and start it. I see a small bleeder on top of the fuel pump, start there?

FurakawaMatt
11-26-2011, 10:59 AM
Here is the priming sequence for a 1981 D31 Not sure what yours is but the steps will be similar.85923

Frank Dozer
11-28-2011, 09:14 AM
Well, I took out the Komatsu D21A-5 yesterday to see if the forward and reverse situation solved itself by sitting for a few days and getting rest. With the engine just above idle, the tracks won't spin on concrete if up against a cement wall, but with a lot of RPMs they spin like crazy. In reverse, same thing. With high, not crazy, RPM, the dozer pushes and climbs the curb as it should. I graded the neighbors whole driveway just to test it. Neighbors happy and the dozer seems better. Why won't it act the same at low RPM ??????? Thanks, Frank

Mobilehomie
11-28-2011, 01:35 PM
Here is the priming sequence for a 1981 D31 Not sure what yours is but the steps will be similar.85923


Thanks Matt, got her running and now I know! Sure this won't be my last visit here....

PonyExpress94
11-29-2011, 01:00 PM
I also purchased and installed a 24 volt battery tender for the winter.

Hey Frank,

Where did you get your 24 Volt battery tender? I just got the idea to do the same thing when I saw your post. I'm curious to know what you think of yours now that you have it and are using it. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Frank Dozer
11-30-2011, 06:10 PM
Hi Patrick,
This is the one I purchased on Amazon.com: Battery Tender 022-0158-1 Waterproof 24 Volt Power Tender Plus Battery Charger . It charges and maintains my batteries on my Komatsu D21A-5. What I like about it is that my batteries are always at maximum charge. Thanks, Frank

Frank Dozer
12-01-2011, 09:09 AM
My Komatsu D21A-5 is now operating just as it should. Maybe because it sat inside not used for a year or two made it sleepy. Now it runs like a new machine. Tracks pull thru out the whole RPM range.
Now I want to add a 3 point hitch. Rather than a winch for up and down, I'd like to tap into the hydraulic system and mount a quick disconnect valve on the rear panel. I already have the 3 point hitch arms from a large John Deere tractor. I figured I could fabricate a mount plate for the dozer, replace the factory hitch and use a hydraulic cylinder, power up and down, to run it. Where can I tap into the hydraulic system and are they metric or ? Has anyone done this ??? Thanks, Frank

mitch504
12-13-2011, 01:24 AM
I finally got around to starting my D21a-6 that I bought a couple of months ago. It had been sitting for an indeterminate time when I bought it. I had never owned anything this little before, but it was a deal I couldn't refuse. Both tracks were stuck, so we just used the 25-ton Grove to lift it onto the lowboy. Owner said it had transmission trouble, but when I checked, it was just the forward- reverse cable.

I put batteries in it and it cranked right up. The brakes broke free relativly easily, but the left one was badly out of adjustment.

So far, all I've really found wrong with it is that cable, and one dripping cylinder.

One wierd thing is that the blade tilt only goes a few degrees to the right, and a long way to the left. The collapsed length of the cylinder is too long. I wonder if this is a peculiarity of these critters, or if the the cylinder has been replaced?

RKP
12-15-2011, 08:49 PM
Would it be ok to change the cranckcase oil, etc. by using a vacuum suction pump down the filler tubes so as not to have to crawl under the dozer?

Thanks

Brian in Texas
12-20-2011, 01:27 AM
This is a very useful site. Thanks everyone.I recently purchased a d20p-6 and was told by the previous owner to use multi purpose tractor hydraulic fluid for the hydraulic system and 15-40 wt oil for everything else. That sounds simple enough but after reading through the posts most of you seem very strict on using different weights. It is usually fairly warm here but we are approaching winter and might go through a few freezes. Im assuming the viscocity varies with the ambient temps and ours are normally high. Can anyone tell me if this is safe or not. Thanks in advance.

PonyExpress94
12-20-2011, 02:09 AM
This is a very useful site. Thanks everyone.I recently purchased a d20p-6 and was told by the previous owner to use multi purpose tractor hydraulic fluid for the hydraulic system and 15-40 wt oil for everything else. That sounds simple enough but after reading through the posts most of you seem very strict on using different weights. It is usually fairly warm here but we are approaching winter and might go through a few freezes. Im assuming the viscocity varies with the ambient temps and ours are normally high. Can anyone tell me if this is safe or not. Thanks in advance.

I can't tell you if it is safe or not, but I will tell you that the owner's manual suggests using a 10w30 or 15w40 engine oil in the engine crankcase and the hydraulic system. Meanwhile the transmission and differential housing are listed as needing sae 30w engine oil. Hope this helps you some.

PonyExpress94
12-20-2011, 02:13 AM
Hi Patrick,
This is the one I purchased on Amazon.com: Battery Tender 022-0158-1 Waterproof 24 Volt Power Tender Plus Battery Charger . It charges and maintains my batteries on my Komatsu D21A-5. What I like about it is that my batteries are always at maximum charge. Thanks, Frank

Frank, thanks for the reply. After posting my question to you, I did some searching and found the charger you mentioned in your reply, albeit before you replied. Having the confirmation that it works well is nice to hear though. I have had good luck with Battery Tender products through the years. Thanks again.

nlaney
01-06-2012, 10:11 PM
i have a d 20 p 5 that has been great... until we parked it for several months. the right track is stuck. i pulled up the floor board and found that the linkage seems to be stuck. i can bump it back but every time you pull the brake handle it sticks again. AND even when it looks like it is in the correct balanced position with the left one, the track is still locked.
PS it is for sale if anyone is looking
lless than 150 hrs on pins and sprocket new bottom rollers
had a specific project i needed a dozer for.. done

'Bama Cowboy
01-13-2012, 10:21 PM
Send me your contact info and I can put you on a fixer for your machine . . .

Lajaw
01-18-2012, 10:33 AM
I have a d21p-6 that we had new steering clutch packs installed August before last because the left side would not turn. It worked for a while but now, it is doing the same thing. I've put maybe 30 hrs on the machine since. The left side pulls, but won't disengage and I thought that the brakes were bad, but when I pulled back both steering handles, it turned right, so the left side is sticking. Before I go back in, can someone explain to me how the clutch pack disengages? I know that there is a small hydraulic cylinder(?) that presses against an arm in the case. What happens to the clutch then? I pushed on that arm and nothing happened. Can someone in the know explain it to this big dummy?

dblaneyfan
01-19-2012, 12:01 PM
I have a d21p-6 that we had new steering clutch packs installed August before last because the left side would not turn. It worked for a while but now, it is doing the same thing. I've put maybe 30 hrs on the machine since. The left side pulls, but won't disengage and I thought that the brakes were bad, but when I pulled back both steering handles, it turned right, so the left side is sticking. Before I go back in, can someone explain to me how the clutch pack disengages? I know that there is a small hydraulic cylinder(?) that presses against an arm in the case. What happens to the clutch then? I pushed on that arm and nothing happened. Can someone in the know explain it to this big dummy?

Here is a link to a shop manual for your D21P-6. Maybe it will be of some help.

http://www.megaupload.com/?d=1KJS4J89

Good luck.

dblaneyfan
01-19-2012, 04:46 PM
Here is a link to a shop manual for your D21P-6. Maybe it will be of some help.

http://www.megaupload.com/?d=1KJS4J89

Good luck.

Sorry, the above is a dead link. PM me if you need the shop manual and I get it to you.

dblaneyfan
01-20-2012, 01:31 PM
Sorry, the above is a dead link. PM me if you need the shop manual and I get it to you.

Okay, I now have a good link for the D21P-6 shop manual. Let me know if there are any problems accessing it.

http://min.us/mboNuLGSb1

All the best.

mitch504
01-20-2012, 06:57 PM
Link worked great, thanks very much.
Mitch

bubbagoat
01-21-2012, 09:53 AM
The new link worked great. Thanks

Bubba

PonyExpress94
01-23-2012, 06:09 PM
Does anyone own a Shop Manual for the 4D95S-W-1 Engine that is used in -6 and (I believe) -7 models? It is referred to as the 95 Series Engine Shop manual. I am trying to find out what the part number for that manual is. I have found a manual that I can purchase that is printed in 1998 but I need to know if that printing will still be accurate for a 1987 era engine that I need to repair and rebuild.

chael04_2004
01-24-2012, 04:59 PM
I have created this account for my father. He has a Komatsu d21p and had a few questions I hope to find some answers on here. If anyone can give me some answers that would be great thank you in advance. First question is The dipstick found on the floodboard in the front, what is it for and what type of fluid? Second question The dipstick found in the back on the floorboad what is it for and what type of fluid? Third question is On the tracks close to the rear there are plugs on each side what are these for and what goes in them? I have read other post about the dipsticks and viewed the information but I was unsure if you use regular motor oil or is there a specific type. Again I hope this makes sense and someone can help thank you much. Michelle.

joemorgan
01-25-2012, 03:52 PM
the front one is for the transmission, SAE30w motor oil, the one at the rear is the bevel gear, SAE30w motor oil, the plugs on the rear case, the final drives, SAE30w motor oil, you will find a plug on the inside bottom of each final drive, this is the drain plugs, the hydraulic system takes either SAE10w, SAE10w-30 or SAE15w-40 your choice on these, these machines use automotive motor oil for everything, hope this helps.

chael04_2004
01-25-2012, 04:14 PM
the front one is for the transmission, SAE30w motor oil, the one at the rear is the bevel gear, SAE30w motor oil, the plugs on the rear case, the final drives, SAE30w motor oil, you will find a plug on the inside bottom of each final drive, this is the drain plugs, the hydraulic system takes either SAE10w, SAE10w-30 or SAE15w-40 your choice on these, these machines use automotive motor oil for everything, hope this helps.

Thank you so much this was very helpful. So glad I found this website. Thanks again and God bless.

RRRancher
01-25-2012, 04:36 PM
Would it be ok to change the cranckcase oil, etc. by using a vacuum suction pump down the filler tubes so as not to have to crawl under the dozer?



I personally wouldn't do that as I don't think it would get all the stuff that might be sitting down by the drain plug. I just changed the oil on my D20A-6 the other day and was amazed at how easy it was. One thing that helped was that I drove the dozer over the area I was going to park it for the oil change, then scraped the area between the two track marks and pushed and pulled the dirt onto the two track marks, making two small, long, and narrow hills. Then I drove it up on these hills, laid cardboard underneath it and found that I had lots of room to crawl under and pull the cover plate and the drain plug. I was done in less than 30 minutes time. It took longer to get the oil filter off and replaced than it did to drain the pan.

Terry Valentine
02-03-2012, 08:45 AM
Thanks - New member - had a d21s-5 for about 12 years now - repaired nearly everything on it until today I pulled the transmission apart because it was slipping. Many of the friction plates surfacing have broken apart. I have been using SAE30w oil, but what we buy today is very different from what it was back in 1984 when this machine was made. Lots of other additives ? Has there been any debate on which is the best oil that will not damage the friction plates ? BTW - the transmission is not all that hard to dissasemble - getting it all back together may be a challenge.

Next .. all you from US and Canada that have trouble finding parts - email me what you need - here in Malaysia we still have thousands of small, but excellent, workshops - example Rebonded my brake shoes for about USD30 - relined all my steering cluthes for about USD50 - parts to rebuild my engine for about USD250 - remanufactured the final drive pinion to original hardness USD120 + all undercarriage bits

Thanks for a great forum ....

Terry Valentine
02-03-2012, 09:13 AM
"Pushed on that arm" - I use a 6 foot crowbar - it takes a lot of force - the clutch pack is normally engaged - there are some heavy duty springs inside the clutch pack. It may be that you are not getting sufficient oil pressure in the slave cylinder - there is a square head bleed valve on the back of the slave cylinder - open a bit and with engine running push the valve on the side of the slave cylinder closed to allow oil in - the same as pulling the steering arm. Make sure all the air is out and a good flow of oil then tighten the bleed valve. As it works on one side and not the other then your oil pump (at front of transmission) should be ok.

Operation - pull steering arm - valve on slave cylinder depresses - oil is allowed into slave cylinder - pushes piston against arm - arms depresses springs inside clutch pack - which opens the pack allowing free rotation. Keep pulling steering arm and your brake should work.

Michaelp
02-04-2012, 10:30 PM
I'm new here and not sure if this where im supposed to post? I have a question hopefully someone can help me out. I recently bought a d20a and it's been sitting a long time. When I try to steer right it lugs the engine down but won't stop the track from turning. I think that the brake is working like it should but the right clutches are stuck causing it to choke the engine down. If this is my problem then what do I need to take apart to check? Thanks for any help.

Terry Valentine
02-05-2012, 05:48 AM
I'm new here and not sure if this where im supposed to post? I have a question hopefully someone can help me out. I recently bought a d20a and it's been sitting a long time. When I try to steer right it lugs the engine down but won't stop the track from turning. I think that the brake is working like it should but the right clutches are stuck causing it to choke the engine down. If this is my problem then what do I need to take apart to check? Thanks for any help.

This sounds right - first get the workshop manual - dblaneyfan posted a link to one on the 20/1/2012. It is pretty straight forward to remove, but a knuckle buster getting at the bolts that hold the clutch pack in, then lifting it straight up. See how you go - ask when need help ! Probably rusted together - pull out clutch pack - dismantle - clean and check - put back in. There is a drain plug under the case - make sure that there is no water inside the case - this could be the cause of seizing.

Terry Valentine
02-05-2012, 06:15 AM
At high RPM you are overcoming the loss of friction in the transmission clutches. These are either worn (spec is 3mm - 2.7mm) or like mine the friction plates have partly broken apart. Drain the transmission oil, pull out the filter and the filter housing and check whether there are little black pieces of friction plate in the bottom of the case. If you need to rebuild the transmission, download manual and read carefully before pulling transmission out - it sounds difficult but is not really that hard. I am currently doing mine - 6 of the 8 plates have lots of pieces missing - but it still ran !! Luckily I have complete rebonding facilities here - so cost should be minimal. I will let you know when I get all the seals and Orings as well.

Terry Valentine
02-05-2012, 06:31 AM
If one track stops then it is your track clutch, if both stop then it is the clutches in the transmission. The transmission has four clutch packs inside - it uses two for each action - forward one, forward two, reverse one, reverse two. See workshop manual for a great writeup. So - one of two (at least) of your transmission clutches is borderline at least. But best to check them all - you will need to pull it all apart anyway. These clutch packs are simple multiplate (2 or 3 depending on model) packs, with the wear really only occuring on the friction material - so if you can get them locally rebonded then the cost is small - just two oil seals and some O rings are needed as well.

sparke
02-05-2012, 10:52 AM
How do you adjust clutch.

cropduster69
02-05-2012, 12:13 PM
Hey guys, on my D31E, I have a grease leaking recoil spring assembly and want to install new seal and packing. Do I understand correctly from other posts, that this can be accomplished without having to disturb or fool with the actual spring and its containment?

thanks in advance

cropduster69
02-05-2012, 01:25 PM
also, does anyone know the length of the spring when fully relaxed?

joemorgan
02-05-2012, 02:30 PM
I have a 1988 D20A-6 in good condition that I am going to be selling, 2900hrs on a working meter, if interested, contact me at joemorgan1@live.com for photo's and info.

Terry Valentine
02-06-2012, 04:28 AM
There is a screw thread and lock nut at the top of the bar that compresses the clutch pack that the clutch hydraulic piston acts on. Although in 12 years I have not had to adjust a steering clutch. I have replaced the friction discs. But see whether you can adjust it, or maybe your hydraulic pressure is not sufficient to push the lever, or your slave cylinder is faulty (leaking). Also check that your control levers are depressing the piston (small) on the slave cylinder completely. If this is not fully depressed then the slave cylinder will not be getting enough oil pressure to act on the clutch.

Terry Valentine
02-06-2012, 04:31 AM
Yes, remove the track, and then just pull out the idler wheel with its' hub and the piston attached. Then you will see the seal inside the cylinder.

sparke
02-06-2012, 09:18 PM
Thanks Terry
It acts like its froze it was working fine last time I used it sit for 6 months and now one side won't pull and lever on that side will not go down.
how big of a job is it to replace clutch.
sparke

Terry Valentine
02-07-2012, 12:26 AM
"One side won't pull" sounds like the brake is jammed (possibly corrosion if it has been sitting). By "won't pull" do you mean the track will not turn? the clutch is normally engaged so that will not stop the track from turning, only will stop it from disengaging ! Describe symptoms in detail....

sparke
02-07-2012, 07:24 AM
Terry
No it will turn I worked it for an hours thinking it might break loose the left side does not have power. I took the top plate off on that side and saw the adjustment for clutch but not sure which way to move screw.
thanks

Terry Valentine
02-07-2012, 08:11 AM
So - summarize - is this correct? - your dozer goes round in circles because one track is not turning ? or does the engine stall ? I'm not sure which plate you took off, or which adjustment you are refering to ? Lets get this clear before you go any further. Explain every symptom and every action that you do - such as put in first gear, right track turns, dozer goes round in circles etc. I do not think it is clutch adjustment, but I need to be clear as to what you are experiencing before giving you further advice.

sparke
02-07-2012, 10:20 PM
It goes stright unless you go up hill then it will go in a circle ,the plate I took off is the one on the back left that the brake lever goes into it has about 10 bolts that holds it on. The adjustment i'm talking about is the one that the hyd. piston moves thats under the cover.
thanks
jerry

Terry Valentine
02-08-2012, 06:54 AM
It goes stright unless you go up hill then it will go in a circle ,the plate I took off is the one on the back left that the brake lever goes into it has about 10 bolts that holds it on. The adjustment i'm talking about is the one that the hyd. piston moves thats under the cover.
thanks
jerry

Previously you mentioned that "the lever on that side won't go down" - which lever ? First, it is unusual for a clutch to get stuck open - their normal position is closed. And you would normally be experiencing a slipping clutch long before it stopped working completely. The way I check mine is to put the dozer on blocks so the tracks can still turn. Then in a gear (either forward one or reverse one)(both tracks should be turning)pull the steering arm on each side until the clutch operates ( you will see the small piston on the clutch slave cylinder depressed) and not far enough to start the brake operating. The track should stop rotating. If in gear and no track turning then check that the slave cylinder is being disengaged - your links may be stuck.

If all links and slave cylinder seem ok (compare what happens on one side to the other when you pull a steering lever) but track is still not turning then check your clutch rotation with the cover off - you should see rotation coming from the bevel gear, but not being transmitted through the clutch pack - now make sure that your clutch is not being held open by the yoke (the big ring with arm that your slave cylinder act on, and has the clutch adjustment bolt and lock nut at the top) (if you are looking at the clutch pack then you have the top cover off so the slave cylinder will not be pressing on the yoke). If clutch us not being held open, and power is not going through it then this will confirm definatively that it is your clutch that has collapsed. The clutch plates can be rebonded to save cost. Specs are in the manual.

If you drive it on ground, then it can go straight until under load - like you experienced, but until you actually look at the transmission of power through the clutch you are not sure - it could be the pinion gear has shredded in the final drive - mine did once !

sparke
02-08-2012, 08:07 AM
Thanks Terry
On the yoke clutch adjustment whitch way do you move the bolt to make sure clutch will be engaged. I would think you would shorten the distance from cly. piston.
thanks
jerry

Terry Valentine
02-08-2012, 09:17 AM
Thanks Terry
On the yoke clutch adjustment whitch way do you move the bolt to make sure clutch will be engaged. I would think you would shorten the distance from cly. piston.
thanks
jerry

As the clutch is normally engaged, pushing the yoke against the clutch housing (by way of the slave cylinder piston being pushed out) opens the clutch - therefore moving the bolt away from the slave cylinder lets the yoke get pushed out to the limit of the clutch springs, giving the clutch maximum compression / engagement.

1stkom
02-08-2012, 10:13 AM
Hey Countryboy, as a new member I clicked on the "NEW MEMBERS" red lettering to private message you to ask how to put a photo under my "new member" name and it sats I don't have privilages. How otherwise do I contact you for this info?

jearl
02-22-2012, 06:56 PM
I have a d 21a-6 with bad cluches how bad of a job is it and does ony one have a shop manual.

mitch504
03-04-2012, 10:24 PM
jearl, look back a couple of pages, there is a link to a downloadable manual that works well.

buck29
03-09-2012, 05:47 AM
Great site. 1st time dozer owner,with no manual yet. Couple ?'s. D21p-7 When you first start up no steering to the right until it seems to warm up. The more it runs the better it gets. I'm going to check steering adjustments. When you pull steering to the right it seems to have no resistance. Also when running dozer across open ground motor will sputter (react) to ground roughness.

dblaneyfan
03-09-2012, 02:10 PM
Great site. 1st time dozer owner,with no manual yet. Couple ?'s. D21p-7 When you first start up no steering to the right until it seems to warm up. The more it runs the better it gets. I'm going to check steering adjustments. When you pull steering to the right it seems to have no resistance. Also when running dozer across open ground motor will sputter (react) to ground roughness.

Welcome buck,

Below is a link to a Komatsu D21P-7 (also D20P-7, D21A-7, D21S-7) service manual. Maybe this will help a little.

http://min.us/mLNVKfJwU#1o

Best,

J

byrdrich
03-09-2012, 06:51 PM
I have a very similar problem with my d21p6 . I replaced the steering clutches last summer.Every thing was working perfectly until I started to use it this week. It worked great two weeks earlier. Now it turns to the left but when I try to turn to the right it does nothing, the engine does not seem to lug down. it is if the left track isn nor turning. I hane taken the seat floor board etc off, and it seems that all the visible linkages are the same left and right. any help or advice would be greatly appeciated.

byrdrich
03-18-2012, 10:37 PM
I finally decided to back my ears and dive in, I pulled the left clutch assembly. Three of the clutches had lost the lining, no indication of exesive heat.
Oh well , I have some new ones on the way. This time I will pay more attention to the instructions in the manual,along with the specs.
By the way this is a great forum, and I have learned a lot from it over the last year when I traded aHarley for my D21P6.

g_man
03-19-2012, 07:29 AM
It will be interesting if you can figure out what happened. Keep us posted. I too am learning here.

Southbasin
03-24-2012, 12:27 AM
Hi all. New to this forum. I've read the thread from start to finish and learned alot. It is really nice to know there are so many helpful people out there. I really appreciate everyone's contributions. I've always had larger dozers for ranch use, but no longer have the ranch or need for the equipment. I now have a d21A-7e with about 1000 hrs that I bought 2 years ago. Successfully completed the 1k service without incident.

I have had a starting problem. The "safety module" seems to have failed. A replacement was about $500 so I bypassed it with direct wires to the solenoid (with a cut-out). I would like to make it right though. Can the "small box" attached to the safety module be replaced without compromising the other functions of the safety module?

FYI I thought this was a solenoid problem and replaced such with an after market one for about 1/3 the Komatsu price.

byrdrich
03-31-2012, 11:20 PM
g man; Just thought i'd let you know about that clutch problem. There was some of the clutch lining missing from two of the plates and all from another. I finally got it back together and it works(with new clutches of course). This job is not all that difficult if you take your time and don't get flustered. I got a set of manuals with the dozer. They must be photo copies, since you have to have a
pretty good imagination to use the pictures, and some of the good to know info is let out of the text.

g_man
04-16-2012, 05:36 PM
Thanks for the update- I'm alittle slow, sorry. Why do you think your clutches wore out so quick since replacing them last summer /

gg

cah8989
04-21-2012, 01:35 PM
My question is do I access the stering linkage thru the floor panel or the rear sear area panel to adjust the steeering linkage??

cah8989
04-21-2012, 01:38 PM
I was also checking to see if anyone would have a guess on what a d20p-6 with about 1800 hours on it?? I am thinking about selling it. Its a great machine dont have muchuse for it much anymore.

Glen2
04-30-2012, 08:31 AM
Thanks to Darinray for the quick responce with the parts to fix my leaky hydraulic ram. good service. Glen2

keito
05-06-2012, 12:23 PM
Has anyone changed a starter on a d21a6? My cables at the starter are fried! Not sure what caused this! Any help would becappreciated!Thanks

cranegy
05-09-2012, 10:45 AM
just testing

RRRancher
05-11-2012, 10:40 AM
My dozer is a D20A-6 version. I had something happen last weekend that had me baffled for a while and thought I would share it in case it happens to someone else. I recently had replaced the two grease fittings that adjust the track tension and had adjusted the tracks to the settings shown in the manual. Later that same day I did some work in my new pond area for about three hours and the dozer worked very well.

Last weekend, I got back on the dozer to wallow out a small wildlife pond where a drainage ditch was. As I was driving the dozer to the site, about 200 yards from its parking space, it suddenly quit wanting to turn. When I would pull back on either steering lever, it wouldn't turn and would cause the engine to load down to the point where it woudl die if I kept pulling back on the lever. I tried backing up with the same result. I tried jerking the levers back quickly and hard one at a time, but that didn't help either.

I was in an area where I had been moving a lot of dirt recently so I put the blade down and pushed a little dirt while trying to turn again. Suddenly the steering returned to normal, so I turned around and headed back to my maintenance area. On the way back, it started acting up again. Once again, I tried putting the blade down and pushing dirt, which once again freed it up.

When I got to the maintenance area, I jumped off on the right side to take a closer look. The right side track looked fine, so I walked around to the other side. The left side track was very tight and had no droop in it at all. I had just adjusted it to the specs in the manual and it definitely had droop in it after the adjustment. But, for some reason, it had tightened up on me since. I didn't think it was possible for it to tighten up like that without adding more grease in the adjustment fitting. And I still don't understand how it did. But I backed out the fitting and released some grease anyway, and readjusted the track back to spec. I got back on and headed back to the work area with no more problems. I dug the small pond out with no problems either.

I don't know why a tight track makes the steering do as it did, especially when trying to turn either way. Or why pushing against something and loading it would make it start working again. But if you have steering problems like this, I suggest you check the tightness of your tracks first. I thought I had a serious problem, and am very glad it was so easy to fix.

g_man
05-11-2012, 12:12 PM
I don't know how those are put together so maybe I shouldn't comment but if it were mine I would be looking for something that is moving on you. I would look hard a the final drives and track frames. Your instinct that tracks don't tighten by themselves is probably right

KILLENDOZER1
05-11-2012, 06:13 PM
Happy Owner of a New to me D20p "not sure what series" Had to Come to Work to Keep my Darling little Dozer Running , Bought it 2 Weeks ago at an Equipment auction in LaGrange TX. She looks Like shes seen some Rough Service[ has a welded Blade mount] , But Runs like a Top , takes about 20 seconds of Starter turnin to fire the little girl up. But once she Does she's smooth as glass , backed her off the trailer and within an hour had pushed up a good enough Weesatche brushpile for a good ol bonfire when i get home from my tour. I'm a newbe on this post , so I wont spoil peoples reading with my little post. I would like to express my gratitude to the senior members on this post for being honest, friendly, and helpful throughout all 99 pages that I have read in Detail From Cover to Cover So to Speak. And am glad to be a member of this forum ; Look Forward to Posting pics of Her soon ! God Bless All!

dbs
05-26-2012, 09:37 PM
I'm looking at a D21P-7 with 20 inch swamp shoes. I would like to know if the 11.8 inch single grouser shoes that come standard on the D20 will fit it. I'm looking for more traction since I don't have much mud or sand to work in.

deerhunter136
06-04-2012, 08:04 PM
I just purchased a Komatsu D20P-6 serial number 70731 dozer. Can anyone tell me what year it is?

deerhunter136
06-04-2012, 08:24 PM
If anyone knows you can email me at algf136@aol.com

darinray
06-04-2012, 08:39 PM
Looks like it's a 1991.....

darinray
06-04-2012, 08:41 PM
I'm looking at a D21P-7 with 20 inch swamp shoes. I would like to know if the 11.8 inch single grouser shoes that come standard on the D20 will fit it. I'm looking for more traction since I don't have much mud or sand to work in.

Yes they will fit it fine but it will look quite a bit different. :) If I were you I would go with a 14" shoe... If you need some prices just email me at darin@dmmsales.com...

deerhunter136
06-05-2012, 07:48 PM
thanks!

dbs
06-05-2012, 08:49 PM
Terry V. You are exactly right. In fact Komatsu put out a warning some time ago about not using certain newer 30 weight oils in the transmissions(hydroshift) because they are too slippery and will damage the trans. I don't recall the letters designating the newer oils but you are right. I've read the warning several places on the internet although I don't recall where but the dealer should have the info. Who would have thought an oil can be too slippery? DBS

GuglioLS
06-11-2012, 05:15 PM
Hi All,
I just finished up removing and replacing the steering clutches and breaks on my D20A-6. What a mess, the steel clutch plates were rusted beyond belief, the clutch friction discs were not much better and the drums have uneven wear. It was truly amazing it worked at all. Also the needle bearings for the break engaging shafts going through the cover plates were frozen solid which made it even more difficult to pull the levers to engage the break bands. Also because those needle bearings and shafts were so frozen I often had the breaks constantly locking up (breaks not releasing after releasing the lever). This took me about 4 days working by myself with basic tools. I did make a few special tools to compress the clutch springs and to press out and re-install the needle bearings but that was not too much a big deal.

I do have a question – what is the gap supposed to be between the clutch releasing cylinder piston and the clutch lever pin? There is no reference in the shop manuals, there are pictures but no spec on the gap or how to adjust the distance between the adjusting bolt (pin) and the cylinder piston. Anyone know what that’s supposed to be or have experience setting that?
Thanks millions,

Larry


More pictures to follow.......

GuglioLS
06-11-2012, 05:17 PM
More pictures.....
I did some clean-up, sand blasting (allot of sand blasting) and painting, added new springs on the break bands and wow looks much better now.
Also a few pictures with the new clutch / break drum and new break band installed. Sure is nice to work with new or clean parts.

Larry

GuglioLS
06-11-2012, 05:19 PM
Here is the gap I am talking about What is it supposed to be?

Thanks,

Larry

darinray
06-12-2012, 02:37 PM
Another fine project you did larry. WOW you sure made here look purdy. :) First I would clean your steering clutch pistons free of paint so you don't wipe the o ring seal in the housing and then soak your brand new steering clutches and brake bands. :)

The manual states (under installation of bevel gear) like 121 mm from the center of the machine to the slip yoke bolt head. :( Very vage and hard to determine so I actually go by pushing the slip yoke all the way till it contacts the steering clutch release plate and adjust the bolt in or out until it visually looks like it will just contact the cylinder. With your housing already mounted to the frame it will be hard for you to determine by looking at it... plus it's freshly painted.

Hope this helps some and contact me anytime...

GuglioLS
06-12-2012, 03:42 PM
Hi Darin,

Thanks for the kind compliments and thanks for taking the time to reply. I have cleaned off the paint from the piston as you suggested and will adjust the bolt to the depth until it just touches the piston. Before installing the steering clutch case covers I broke free the adjuster bolts so i can turn them by hand from the outside and still lock them down with the locking nut so it's no big deal to adjust them from the outside.

Whan you say "soak your brand new steering clutches and brake bands" soak them in what?


Again thanks for supporting me and all the members of the forum - you are a valuable resource.


Larry

darinray
06-12-2012, 04:29 PM
WOOOPSS. I shouldn't have worded it that way I guess..:) I meant that if you didn't clean your steering clutch cylinder that COULD wipe out the oring seal WHICH would allow oil to escape and soak (don't want that) your new clutches and bands if not caught in time. :)

GuglioLS
06-12-2012, 11:53 PM
Hi Darin,

OK I get it now, I interpreted your information incorrectly :o So no soaking the break bands or clutch friction disks in oil on purpose :eek:

When I had everything apart I went ahead and replaced the large O-rings inside the hydraulic clutch release pistons, the backing rings were OK so I just cleaned them up. Besides that Xomat$u wanted 25 bucks a piece for a simple plastic ring and 44 bucks a pop for the steering case cover gaskets :eek:. I made my own gaskets @ 2 for 5 bucks. The Needle bearings and seals were reasonable but the splined shafts that go through the steering case covers that actuate the breaks were, well....... lets say I got the shaft on those, but at least they had them. All in all it was worth it though because it steers as smooth as butter now.

You saw how bad those steel clutch plates were right? In the winter very often the steering clutch's would not release because the plates were literally frozen or simply rusted together. I have a feeling at one time this machine got stuck and sank in some bad muck and sat there for months, if not years, then never cleaned up or dried out. But amazingly I have been running this machine for about 3 or 4 years like it was.

Next I'm going to start saving up for some new tracks, replacing those might be fun :Pointhead

Larry