Section for komatsu d20,21 and similar grey market dozers

[darinray]

:) Dang I thought I was waiting for a final list of parts because you said you needed more and was going to email me. :( Oh well no sweat. I think you already got the rebuld kit and that is the only thing I was waiting on so I don't need any more info. I've sent your request for the crank out to some manufacturers and am waiting for reply. if I dont' hear back from them it normally means they can't help. :) Talk to you again.

Darin

[dewy-david]

Hi all, I have a d21s 30180 front loader with normal grouser pads. I'm wonder what year is my machine? Are most wear parts available? My track chains and sprockets a well worn! :( I just bought mine and I really like it. I'm doing a bit of clean up on the machine. The seat was all shredded and it was missing a few bits. I'm also making my ROPS. Runs strong and digs well. I need to clean up my pond area and clear brush.

[darinray]

Looks like you have a 1973 model. Yes I have those chains and sprockets for you and contact me for other wear parts then I can tell you if they are available or not. :) I have most of the wear items here.

Darin

[dewy-david]

I'm wondering if I can weld the new sprockets on myself? Is it cast Iron or cast steel? Anyone weld their own?
David

[OneWelder]

Dewey- short answer is yes you can - cast steel -used to be a common practice but bolt ons became common place so there was no more real demand

[dewy-david]

I see they sell the weld on type on ebay. Is it best to split them in half and then weld them on? Would it be best to preheat them a bit with a torch prior to welding? I wonder which is the best way to cut the old gears off? Maybe with a hand grinder with a cutoff wheel? :rolleyes:
Thanks!
David

[darinray]

Yeah i hvae both weld on ones one ebay and 1 piece bolt on sprockets on ebay. All you have to do is cut with torch or better yet plasma cutter and then prep...how much depends on your cut and then weld. Leave them together and don't split them it will just make it harder to do. My guy doesn't heat it up but I'm sure it wouldn't hurt.

Darin

[OneWelder]

good welding practice is to heat anything thicker than 1/4 " to get rid of moisture which could cause under-bead cracking or pin holing
does not need to be super hot- but you will see water come to surface then evaporate as the temp goes up

[jjdow68]

Hello All
I am loving this forum. I have a D20a-6 I have broken my water pump and fan blade. Does anyone know where and for how much this will set me back to replace? Do they make a rebuild kit even if the shaft is broken? Thankfully it didn't harm the radiator. Look forward to reply. GREYMONAUTS UNIT!!!!!

[donmaggi]

Hello All
I have a gray market D20 that runs fine but will not disengage the left track when moving. When the left handle is pulled ( doesnt seem to go through clutch engagement & track release ) track just keeps pulling till the brakes are applied & eventually stalls engine. ANY IDEAS ???

[darinray]

Hello All
I am loving this forum. I have a D20a-6 I have broken my water pump and fan blade. Does anyone know where and for how much this will set me back to replace? Do they make a rebuild kit even if the shaft is broken? Thankfully it didn't harm the radiator. Look forward to reply. GREYMONAUTS UNIT!!!!!

Not sure if you fixed yours yet or not but I have teh fan blade for your unit $95 and the water pump you can get rebuilt from Komatsu and if interested I can get you a price Monday on a reman one. I think it's around $350 but not for sure.

Darin

[darinray]

Hello All
I have a gray market D20 that runs fine but will not disengage the left track when moving. When the left handle is pulled ( doesnt seem to go through clutch engagement & track release ) track just keeps pulling till the brakes are applied & eventually stalls engine. ANY IDEAS ???

Yeah it sounds like your clutches are frozen together and won't release.... OR you have no oil to your left cylinder for some reason that releases the clutches. I have the steering clutches and steel disc and that is what it probably will end up being when only one side doesn't work. Let me know.

Darin

[Frank Dozer]

Hi Dewy-David, I have a D21A-5 and also want to fabricate and install a ROPS. Have you done any preliminary type of design. I have a design in my head based on other D21s with ROPS. Let's put our thoughts on paper and arrive at a good design. After all, our lives might be at stake. Frank

[Frank Dozer]

Here's my D21A-5
Hi Dewy-David, I have a D21A-5 and also want to fabricate and install a ROPS. Have you done any preliminary type of design. I have a design in my head based on other D21s with ROPS. Let's put our thoughts on paper and arrive at a good design. After all, our lives might be at stake. Frank

[oldhousehugger]

FrankDozer,
It would be handy if someone with the measurements could make a picture in WORD of the bolt pattern of the 2 mounting points either side of the console and also at the rear. It would also be handy to have the bolt pattern on the rear of the transmission case where a ripper or other tool could be mounted was known. I have used the paper and pencil method of transfer forever but it would save time if someone has the templates already drawn.
John

[dewy-david]

Here's my D21A-5

Frank, I have started to construct mine. I bought 3" 1/4" wall tube at a local salvage steel yard for the frame and 3/8 plate to make mounts. I used 3/8 angle 4x4 to make my mounts for the front. I used 3/4 bolts for the mount location at the 4 points. I got most of my ideas from the Alaska excavator .com web site. I will use the 1-3/4" sockets at the back of mine where the original shade was mounted. I will weld to solid stock and brace it well. I need to decide the finish height. I will plate the top with heavy gauge steel - maybe even dimond plate. Mine didn't have any sun shade left when I bought mine. I have a bucket and not a blade so I need to keep a good view of the full range of motion. I also got some cheap lights that I will mount using h3 24 volt bulbs. I'm also making the guards on the one side that were missing from mine. I will need to make a floor around the pedals since mine was missing. I will put some sort of screen on the back and maybe some of the sides. I will make removable sweeps too but I first need to get my ROPS done. Mine will probably weight close to 500 pounds when it is all said and done. :o
David

[Digger145]

Frank, I have started to construct mine. I bought 3" 1/4" wall tube at a local salvage steel yard for the frame and 3/8 plate to make mounts. ..............

A couple of small points which may or may not help.
The 3" 1/4" wall tube, needs to be SHS or square hollow section - the sizing is right for up to 15 ton OPS (75mm x 75mm x 6mm) over that you need to move to 4" x 1/4 (100mm x 100mm x 6mm).


I will plate the top with heavy gauge steel - maybe even dimond plate. Mine didn't have any sun shade left when I bought mine.

I'm not quite sure what you mean by heavy gauge steel but it needs to be a minimum of 6mm or 1/4 inch.


........... I will make removable sweeps too but I first need to get my ROPS done. Mine will probably weight close to 500 pounds when it is all said and done. :o
David

If your focus is to build a ROPS not FOPS make sure your design includes good corner webbing / bracing, you spread the mounting points out well or even add two - ultimately if the OPS doesn't fold, it will transfer all load to these points. The protective structure is only as good as what it's mounted to.
Use common sense when designing, i.e. the roof "H" section(s) just sits on top of the vertical posts - things like that. Make your model builds outta paddle pop sticks, cheap at craft shops.

Lastly stitch weld where you can, the less heat you put in to that thing during construction the stronger it will be. You will have to perimeter weld a lot of it, sure - but sometimes in life, more is not better.

[oldhousehugger]

http://www.fire.ca.gov/fire_protection/downloads/redsheet/ColoradoFire_ExecutiveReportSummary_Complete.pdf

A guy was killed rolling a Caterpillar D6N-XL while working a wildfire down a 160 foot side hill.
Interesting read about the need to have adequate safety belts and a good hard hat even with a factory designed ROPS. The conclusions bear consideration as well. Especially working on unconsolidated fill on the edge of an 85 percent slope (40.35 degree). No matter how good your cage is, if the human body isn’t secured properly in it for the ride, it’s like scrambling an egg in the shell. I’m guilty as charged for not wearing a seat belt working a side hill. Heck I wear earmuffs now that I’m going deaf. Maybe I’ll start wearing my seat belt someday too.
John

[jjdow68]

Thank you but I found a used fan blade and I got the water pump rebuilt. Now I m have a problem with overheating. This is a new problem. What I have done so far to fix is a new thermostat, cleaned the outside of radiator a9 (front and back) I did notice that the back plate on the new rebuilt pump is leaking "which is my fault" so i will have to take the darn pump back off to tighten the screws on that plate but other then that I don't know what else to do other then taking the raditator off and getting it dipped. Does anyone have any suggestions? I had a few hydralic lines bust lately so I figured that I got some fluid pulled up in the radiator it was dirty but not the worst Ive seen. Its clean now anyhow. When I say overheating I mean that it has gone all the way up to the line before it is in the red. It will hang right in that area but I don't allow it to get any higher I just shut it down. I should also mention that it takes about an hour to hour and 30 minutes to reach that area on the gauge it does seem to hold there however. I just don't like this, something aint right!!!!!!! Please HELP!!!!

[jjdow68]

Sorry about this but i need to add that the work I am doing is pretty hard pushing but it is the same kind of pushing I always do so that is a constant.

[dewy-david]

What oil or grease should I put in the rollers???? The owners manual doesn't say. I made up a fitting with a zerk nipple that will screw in where the inspection plugs thread in. One of my idler roller looks dry.:rolleyes:

Where can I get the glow plug indicator? Mine is shot! :mad:
Does anyone know if a 12 volt ammeter will work in the 24 volt system? It seems to me that the meter won't care what voltage is there???:confused:

[Digger145]

What oil or grease should I put in the rollers????

80/90w, basically diff oil, if you are stuck in tractor land 90/140w will do.
If you've got wear already, use black grease - lithium based grease.



Does anyone know if a 12 volt ammeter will work in the 24 volt system? It seems to me that the meter won't care what voltage is there???:confused:
Yep, amps is amps, the meter is wired in series and has no concept of voltage. The only issue would be is if it had a inbuilt gauge light, which would blow with the wrong voltage.

[dnewman]

should i buy a manual or just keep asking questions on the forum?

[darinray]

It's nice to have manuals and I do have those for sale . BUT this forum is a great place to ask all questions so others when doing searches will find the answers to the same questions. So basically i say ask away. :)

Darin

[dewy-david]

Darin,
Do you have access to a glow plug indicator for a d21s-3? Do you have any ideas where I can get one?:)
Thanks!
David

[darinray]

It looks like its $40.54 (if it's still available) plus freight. I have some here that may not be exactly like yours but will work because all you have to do is hook the 2 wires on it and bolt it on your dash for $35 plus freight.

Darin

[Racenitro]

I have a Komatsu Dozer Question...It is not one of the gray market models but hope somebody can help.
Looking at a D65E-6 to buy. The owner was using it and it developed a leak under the belly pan. At the same time, it quit steering. Is this a simple fix or a major problem? He had manuals until a house fire burned them up so he has no literature to help. I can't find any on line and was wondering if anybody might have a few diagrams that may help me decide if it is worth buying. The engine runs great, starts easily, transmission works in all positions, just won't steer.

[joemorgan]

Sorry about this but i need to add that the work I am doing is pretty hard pushing but it is the same kind of pushing I always do so that is a constant.

you might want to check all of the rubber gap seals around the front of the radiator, if they are bad you loose air from the fan around them also be sure your fan belt is not slipping, I had the same problem, this helped mine.

[dewy-david]

It looks like its $40.54 (if it's still available) plus freight. I have some here that may not be exactly like yours but will work because all you have to do is hook the 2 wires on it and bolt it on your dash for $35 plus freight.

Darin

Sounds good, Mine has one hole that goes through the dash. I can make anything work. ;)
Can you PM me your contact info and we will work out the details!
Thanks!
David

[Digger145]

The owner was using it and it developed a leak under the belly pan. At the same time, it quit steering. Is this a simple fix or a major problem?

Does it leak at idle or only when you move a steering lever. Hang on, I should have started with, does it still have any hyd oil left in it? LoL

[darinray]

Sure thing. My contact info is www.dmmsales.com

Darin
dmm@inbox.as
716-397-5963 cell

[Racenitro]

Digger..
Thanks for reponding. It leaks constantly...Oil level does drop..added some but it would not steer. leak is pretty strong.
I am assuming you are talking about the level on the dipstick on the floor in front of the operator seat.

[Digger145]

It leaks constantly...Oil level does drop..added some but it would not steer. leak is pretty strong.

You should be able to see a wash mark (clean spot washed by oil leak) somewhere if the leak is bad enough then. I would be sus to a hydraulic line rubbed through - be it steel or flex. If it leaks quick it's on the pressure side and slower on the return - nothing you don't know already, but it allows you to trace it from the pump.



I am assuming you are talking about the level on the dipstick on the floor in front of the operator seat.
I kinda only mentioned it, cuz you said you were thinking of buying it. Make sure it hasn't been run whilst dry. You could get all sorts of problems in the future if it has. A leak, even a bad one isn't so bad as long as it's well fed. :)

It could be a bargain - just a broken line mount which has caused the line to rub through or it could be big $$$. Think with your head not your heart, as another one ( a better one?) will always be around the corner.

[Racenitro]

Digger...
Thanks....
The price of the Dozer was so good, that I went ahead and bought it....
It is from a farm estate sale and the owners wanted to sell it bad so $5000 got it.
I figure the engine and scrap are worth that much and if I can fix it chepaly, all the better.

It is a 1977 model....
Already have had an offer for more than I paid for it as it sits, so I figure I did not make a mistake...

Hauling is not a problem since my cousin one farm away has a low boy that he hauls his excavator with. Just had to situate the trailer square so it loaded and since I already remove the blade and trunions, and hauled them separately, width was not an issue either.
Just need to find a little extra time to work on it now.....

[Digger145]

Digger...
The price of the Dozer was so good, that I went ahead and bought it....
It is from a farm estate sale and the owners wanted to sell it bad so $5000 got it.

Wow, that's a bargain IMHO. Let us know how you get on with it. :thumbsup:

[Racenitro]

Talked to a guy today that used to work for a heavy equipment salvage yard and he sid there is a rubber hose approx 2 inches in dia that is probably worn through that pickes up oil from the trans case and feeds the steering pump
If that is the problem, it should show itself as soon as I remove the belly pan.

The price made it hard to pass up especially when a good running Cummins NH220 take out goes around $3000...that would leave a lot of scrap f nothing else that easily covers the other $2
I am told the blade(tilt) will also fit a D-6

[rinehart89]

anyone no what fluid you use in the d20 transmision

[darinray]

According to my manuals you need 10W engine oil for your tranny.

Darin

[STATELINE]

just wanted to let everyone here know my dozer is for sale in the classified section, nothing wrong with it, I'm just done with my project.

http://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/Forum/showthread.php?t=15436

[Ron]

The powershift may have a little more to "go wrong", but it's easy to abuse the manual transmission. It has no "syncro's" (probably wrong term, but you understand what I mean) so you have to slip the clutch to get the gears to line up. If you aren't patient or are having a bad day it's like being in a coffeehouse with all the grinding. Not that I ever grind a gear on mine. :rolleyes: Also, if you are running it for more than a day or 2 at a time the power shift is really nice.

I've put 200-300 hrs on a manual trans, and have wondered how long I've spent by the end of the day waiting on it to fall into gear.

[dewy-david]

Does anyone know where I can get bucket teeth for my komatsu d21s 3 ? Mine bolt on from the top. Mine are worn a lot along with the edge of my bucket. I might try and rebuild the edge or even replace it? I see I can buy a new edge from one source. Any ideas?
Thanks!
David

[John Aarons]

I have an 86 komatsu d20p-6. I have replaced the clutches, brake drums, seals, bearings & brake bands. But I am still having problems.
I don't have any literature or schematics on the dozer. What I do have has been from the kindness of Darin. I need to know what the part is called under the seat that the hydrolic hoses go into. (Where the 4 plugs are to check the hydrolic pressure) And does anyone have a schematic for it? I would also like a schematic for the pump itself.
The dozer runs and turns great cold, but once it gets warmed up it wont turn.
On the valves for the turning clutches, when you take plugs out to check, there isnt any pressure.
Thanks for help
mswensky67@gmail.com

[darinray]

Holy crap John I thought you had this fixed because I didn't hear back from you. :( What fluid are you running in your main clutch case? Did you clean the strainer and change the oil with 10W engine oil? OR maybe we shoudl try a heavier oil since it stops working when it's warmed up. ?????


Darin

[John Aarons]

We cleaned the strainer and it is filled with 10W oil (Happy Thanksgiving Darin) :)

[darinray]

Yes Happy Thanksgiving to you guys as well.

I thought you did but wasn't sure totally. :) So if it works when it's cold that means that the passages to and from are fine and the valves and everything seem to be working. Boy it sounds like the pump is bad. :( I dont have a used one here either but am sure i can find one if you want. I am hoping someone else will have some ideas too.

Darin

[John Aarons]

How does the pump work, does it have O rings or disc or what, does it rotate with the motor on the back of the clutch housing? or does it have a plunger that goes up and down?
Where is the pump exactly, and how hard is it to change? Oh and how much is the pump?
I need to see a schematic of it to get it in my head.
John

[darinray]

It's a gear pump mounted on the clutch housing. Here is a pic where my used one was. :( They are pricey little things at over $1,000 from Komatsu. :( I think you spoke with some other dealers about parts before so kinldy check with them. If you can't locate one let me know.

Darin

[willie59]

Wow, I can tell by looking at the mounting that's a special pump. Komatsu is known for making "Komatsu only" pumps. :Banghead

[CinOK]

Hey all I dont own a gray market dozer but I do own 2 gray market farm tractors. I dont know if this help or been mentioned before but alot of the parts between gray and legal machines are the same but you need to match engine serail numbers. Also I found out that these manulas that are being sold are not protect ny US copyright so once you have one you can copy and give it away or make copies to sell. i found this out when i paid too much money for crappy photocopies. I have gotten parts for my machines by finding the part numbe online and then going to the dealer. If i go in there and say its for a Mits tractor they wont sell me the parts:Banghead

[STATELINE]

Hey all I dont own a gray market dozer but I do own 2 gray market farm tractors. I dont know if this help or been mentioned before but alot of the parts between gray and legal machines are the same but you need to match engine serail numbers. Also I found out that these manulas that are being sold are not protect ny US copyright so once you have one you can copy and give it away or make copies to sell. i found this out when i paid too much money for crappy photocopies. I have gotten parts for my machines by finding the part numbe online and then going to the dealer. If i go in there and say its for a Mits tractor they wont sell me the parts:Banghead

that's pretty much what I found out when I had my Gray market Kobelco excavator, most all of the mechanical parts were the same as U.S. spec. machines. I accuired a parts manual, & just took them the part #'s, no problem getting parts that way.

[breneau]

Hi guys and ladies; I'm new here and hope this question is in the right place. I have a D20P-7A that I have just finished pressure washing and now it does not start. It turns over fine but makes no effort to start. It has always been extremely easy to start. I do not find any wires off and do not see anything obvious except a fuel leak in a bleeder line that I am about to replace. Any ideas?

[HDPSCORP]

Hi guys and ladies; I'm new here and hope this question is in the right place. I have a D20P-7A that I have just finished pressure washing and now it does not start. It turns over fine but makes no effort to start. It has always been extremely easy to start. I do not find any wires off and do not see anything obvious except a fuel leak in a bleeder line that I am about to replace. Any ideas?

Hello,

I have a D20P 6A and it can be a bitch to start if I don't use the heater for at least 15~20 seconds (it starts right up if after that)....does your 7A have the heater signal that you actually can see the coil go red orange?

Also, I am not a mechanic, but I know well that a leak in the line for diesel engines will prevent it to start as is not pressure there....

Ed

[darinray]

When you turn the key on do you hear a small motor run for a little bit? If you have the sides off see if the fuel stop actually moves back and forth when operating the key. Keep us posted.

Darin

[breneau]

Thanks, I am not sure where the fuel stop is located but that sure would seem to be a good possibility (the sides are off). I'll look for that tomorrow morning.

[darinray]

on the back end of the injector pump toward the seat. You will be able to tell as soon as you turn the key on and off.

Darin

[breneau]

Thanks, I do not think it is moving by the fact that my partner did not see anything move when we were 'cranking' the engine. Is there an electrical relay or fuse that engages this?

[darinray]

It will only move when you first turn the key on or turn it off. There is a relay that could be bad that is located under the throttle lever tower (the handle that you move for rpms) that you can check. Sometimes there is a electrical post that rust off and or the relay just burns out.

Darin

[breneau]

I replaced that relay since that was the only area that I cleaned after I restarted the engine after washing it. I noticed a bit of smoke from it when trying to start it so I assumed that I had 'fried' it. Nothing different after replacement.

[darinray]

hmmm. You can try to run a power wire to the motor shutoff directly to see if it's good. BUT to get it going just unhook the cable by the injector pump to get you going. You will need to manually shut it down after that. Let us know what you find.

Darin

[breneau]

Thanks guys, the problem was just beneath the relay at the throttle tower; a broken wire. I was able to get it started temporarily by manually moving the shutoff valve. With this confirmed, it was a matter of finding the culprit. My hard-headed belief that it had to be in the relay area led to checking the wires themselves closely and finding one broken.

[Ron]

I have an '86 model D20-P and I can't get any grease in the main ball of the blade. I've replace the fitting and dug around inside where it goes and I've loosened the bolts as far as I dare and still can't get it to take any grease. Any suggestions?

[darinray]

Wont' be able to unless you take the blade off so you can take a long drill bit through the center of the grease hole. They get clogged with stuff and is almost hard to even drill through. BUT you might get lucky some other way i don't know about. :) Sorry for the bad news.

Darin

[STATELINE]

I have an '86 model D20-P and I can't get any grease in the main ball of the blade. I've replace the fitting and dug around inside where it goes and I've loosened the bolts as far as I dare and still can't get it to take any grease. Any suggestions?

I couldn't get mine to take any grease there either, soon as I get a chance, I'm gonna pull the blade it correct that.

[kentuckyboy]

Mine is the same way. I only use my dozer periodically, so I just spray the ball joint with cable lube. Works good for me.

[STATELINE]

can anyone tell me for sure what year my Komatsu D21A-7 is/ it has joystick controls & the serial number is 75978
thanks

[ejb17]

My D21A-7E is a 1997 with #79300 so yours should be a year or 2 older I think. Darinray should be able to pinpoint it.

[STATELINE]

thanks, I was thinking it was a 95-96 just trying to pinpoint it, gonna list it on machinerytrader.com

[darinray]

Stateline- your machine is a 1992 model in my serial number guide.

Darin

[darinray]

Stateline yes your photos are up on your shortcut. i just seen it. :) Also why didn't you tell me you are looking for a mini excavator. Dang contact me- I have those too. :)

[STATELINE]

Darin,
thanks for the info, maybe you could PM me some info on your mini excavators

[Frank Dozer]

I have a Komatsu D21A-5 and I keep it indoors in an unheated garage. I won't be using it all winter. Are there any secrets as how to not have the clutches rust together, should I winterize the engine and can you winterize a diesel engine. I already use conditioner in the fuel tank. Anything else. I'm in Massachusetts and it can get pretty cold here. Thanks.

[Ron]

Thanks for the help.

[STATELINE]

I have a Komatsu D21A-5 and I keep it indoors in an unheated garage. I won't be using it all winter. Are there any secrets as how to not have the clutches rust together, should I winterize the engine and can you winterize a diesel engine. I already use conditioner in the fuel tank. Anything else. I'm in Massachusetts and it can get pretty cold here. Thanks.


frank,
you really shouldn't have to do anything more to winterize it, if you have electric available, you mgiht want to put a battery tender on to keep the batteries charged. as far as the clutches, if you can, just pull the machine out of the garage every 3-4 weeks, warm everything up & turn it back & forth a few times, & put it back away. that should be plenty to keep clutches cleaned up.

[Tony Black]

I have a d21s-3 I need workshop manual and would like any info from the group... what year? How to repair steering

[Tony Black]

I have a d21a-3 I need workshop manual and would like any info from the group... what year? How to repair steeringclutches etc.

[darinray]

I do have a copy of the shop manual for the -3's and I get $75 for it. I have clutches here in stock too so contact me anytime. If you give me the serial number I can run it to see what year it is.

Darin
dmm@inbox.as

[maniac]

darinray,,Hi my name is Paul , as you can see I am new to forum, I need a little help I D ing a komatsu d 20...the tag says D20A6 but it looks like it used to say 5 and someone stamped a 6 over it , the serial number is 62022..any help you can give is greatly appreciated and I hope I didn't bust in on someone on here..thank you , Paul

[darinray]

Hello Paul, Your machine is a -6 1987 model. Maybe it was a factory stamp mistake because with that serial number it is a -6. Talk to you later.

Darin

[maniac]

thanks so much , Darin...I have been reading this forum for a few months and decided to join,,seems like a very imformative forum...I love to get on my d20 and spend some alone time clearing brush and road maintance on my 80 acres..look forward to being a member , Paul

[dewy-david]

I have a d21s-3 I need workshop manual and would like any info from the group... what year? How to repair steering

Hey Tony,
I have that same machine D21s 3 #30180. :) What kind of shape is yours in? How long have you had yours? Mine will need new tracks and sprockets soon:(. I just finished making ROPS for mine. I only need to connect the lights and make the back screen ancors and paint it. Mine was missing the floor below the pedals and one side cover and armor. I've made those parts and have installed them. I was also missing one arm rest metal bracket. Mine runs great and starts well even in the cold weather. What is funny is when I cleaned out all the dirt below where the floor was I found old gloves, 2 extra sets of keys, An altoids tin, one broken handle one seat hinge and lots of dirt.
David

[GuglioLS]

Hi Paul,

Welcome
I have a D20A-6 S/N 68449 that must make us practically neighbors.

Darin if you would be so kind and let me know what year mine is. Oh and do you have the 13" wide track shoes for a D20-6? (Single grouser) mine has the 11" ones and I'd really like to upgrade.
Larry

[Frank Dozer]

Hey Dewy-David, Do you have any pictures of the ROPS you built??????



OTE=dewy-david;200298]Hey Tony,
I have that same machine D21s 3 #30180. :) What kind of shape is yours in? How long have you had yours? Mine will need new tracks and sprockets soon:(. I just finished making ROPS for mine. I only need to connect the lights and make the back screen ancors and paint it. Mine was missing the floor below the pedals and one side cover and armor. I've made those parts and have installed them. I was also missing one arm rest metal bracket. Mine runs great and starts well even in the cold weather. What is funny is when I cleaned out all the dirt below where the floor was I found old gloves, 2 extra sets of keys, An altoids tin, one broken handle one seat hinge and lots of dirt.
David[/QUOTE]

[maniac]

Gugliols , thanks for the welcome,,you were talking about changing to the 13 " track..mine used to have 13's on it and had everything replaced ..sprockets , chains , rollers , idlers , pads, adjusters , EVERYTHING..anyway we went back with the 12" pads and they seem to get better traction than the 13's. mayby just the kind of dirt I have around here that I needed more pounds per square inch on the tracks...Paul

[MrKomatsu]

The correct oil for hydralic system is sae10w, sae10w/30, and even sae15/40...depending on the ambint temp in region....

[dewy-david]

[QUOTE=Frank Dozer;200327]Hey Dewy-David, Do you have any pictures of the ROPS you built??????

Frank,
I do have pictures of the ROPS.;) Send me a PM and I will send them on to you. I haven't tried to put them on this board.
Regards!
David

[darinray]

Hello Larry,

Your machine is a 1990 in my serial number guide. Yes I actually do have the 14" (13.5") but you have to be sure your machine can take the extra. Let me know if you think it will work.

Darin


Hi Paul,

Welcome
I have a D20A-6 S/N 68449 that must make us practically neighbors.

Darin if you would be so kind and let me know what year mine is. Oh and do you have the 13" wide track shoes for a D20-6? (Single grouser) mine has the 11" ones and I'd really like to upgrade.
Larry

[squidrig]

hey all newbie here great site great informative posts .. well anyway heres my problem i have a komatsu d31p.. machine starts great but u can here what sounds like air in pump under floorboards at idle while in gear..machine crawls at idle but as soon as you try to raise rpms very loud bang and machine stops moving ...machine has joystick steer and brakes are worn out...its been awhile (2 years since machine has worked) but the last time i tried to figure it out i think i changed pump suction hose under floor thinking it was sucking air but didnt help also not sure i used correct oil to refill i have read alot but not all posts on dozer forum anyhelp greatly appreciated thanks

[shouldabeen]

I need a part? top roller the tracks glide on its located just in front of the sprocket its the passenger side if that matters.
Looks like Darin may sell these or anyone else even a used one would be fine.
Roy Lancaster LancasterCompound@live.com
in Clarksville AR, 72830

[darinray]

Oh yeah I have those. $130 delivered.

[Mark Ireland]

Hi all,

I am looking to purchase a Komatsu 275 and 375 for use in the UAE, has anybody any useful information or perhaps, a dozer for sale, preferably the hours should not be too high and it should be less than 3 years old.

[shouldabeen]

http://photobucket.com/LancasterCompound
BOTH HOBBIES RIDEN AND DOZIN

[darinray]

NICE job. If I wasn't so old that would be fun to ride on. :)

Darin

[Glock]

Same here, probably wreck.

[Glock]

Hey all,
I have a 2000 D-20P7 with around 3k hours. I seem to be experiencing problem related to steering clutch. My left side track stops pulling as well as the handle has to be pulled harder than right to turn. I have adjusted both sides according to manual, does this indicate worn clutches on left or possible adjustment is still not quite right. This seems to have occurred slowly but now it is affecting performance. Occasionally machine will seem to lock and not move at all without moving both levers. Thanks for any suggestions.

[shouldabeen]

Thanks guys and Darin I will be callin for that part I am reworking the track and need to be finished by January.

[dozerdame]

Hello,
I have a D41P-3 Komatsu dozer. Lately it has been struggling to lift the blade. My husband, who is kind enough to maintain my dozer, (in exchange for me plowing our very long driveway) has greased all the hydraulic fittings he can find but it still does not want to lift the blade as smoothly as before.
I don't have a manual for this model. I have one for a newer model but the system is a little different so I'm not sure we have found all the fittings. Does anyone know if there are some that are hidden or harder to find that we might be missing? Or does this sound like some other problem?
I just dropped about $1,700 on undercarriage work so I am hoping to find a cheaper fix this time.
Thanks.
Sheila

[darinray]

Hey all,
I have a 2000 D-20P7 with around 3k hours. I seem to be experiencing problem related to steering clutch. My left side track stops pulling as well as the handle has to be pulled harder than right to turn. I have adjusted both sides according to manual, does this indicate worn clutches on left or possible adjustment is still not quite right. This seems to have occurred slowly but now it is affecting performance. Occasionally machine will seem to lock and not move at all without moving both levers. Thanks for any suggestions.

Hmmmm... If your left tracks stops pulling or stall out then yes you have some clutch issues and proabably needs to be tore down and inspected.. Could have oil in there, clutches are wore out, brake drum wore through, etc.

The tracks locks up and bogs motor? Or the tracks stall and don't want to move and doesn't bog the motor?

Darin

[darinray]

Hello,
I have a D41P-3 Komatsu dozer. Lately it has been struggling to lift the blade. My husband, who is kind enough to maintain my dozer, (in exchange for me plowing our very long driveway) has greased all the hydraulic fittings he can find but it still does not want to lift the blade as smoothly as before.
I don't have a manual for this model. I have one for a newer model but the system is a little different so I'm not sure we have found all the fittings. Does anyone know if there are some that are hidden or harder to find that we might be missing? Or does this sound like some other problem?
I just dropped about $1,700 on undercarriage work so I am hoping to find a cheaper fix this time.
Thanks.
Sheila


Start with an oil change and strainer and filter change. That is the simple and least expensive fix. :) Let us know how you make out.

Darin

[FurakawaMatt]

Interesting Forum. I see where it would come in very handy to share knowledge. I have a Furukawa CD5PB swamp dozer 1982? (manual trany) that I have had for almost 12 years. It has been very reliable and more that earned its keep though I have had to have the pins and bushings replaced 200 hrs back. I have the number on these if any one needs them as well as oil and fuel filters, Wix and Carquest.

Reading through many of the posts in this topic I have been trying to see if I can puzzle out a way to fix my dozer or if it is scrap metal time. The steering on the right is almost entirely gone and the left is going since I have been using it almost entirely for the means of control. It seems to declutch, since it will roll on the tracks when pulling on the control levers going downhill, there is just no grab for turning the dozer. I know the main clutch is not all that good, but it does work for changing gears though not always returning fully from being depressed.

I expect the parts for this machine are near non existent but reading through about adjusting steering brakes/clutches is a topic I see mentioned. How is this done? Or is that only for the komatsu small dozer? I notice that many of the features of the Komatsu, Mitsi and Hitachi are identical to my Furukawa. I do have a parts manual (Japanese) for the dozer, that has part numbers and expanded drawings of all the components.

Would love to keep this thing going. Thanks for any help that anyone can offer.

[Glock]

Hmmmm... If your left tracks stops pulling or stall out then yes you have some clutch issues and probably needs to be tore down and inspected.. Could have oil in there, clutches are wore out, brake drum wore through, etc.

The tracks locks up and bogs motor? Or the tracks stall and don't want to move and doesn't bog the motor?

Darin

Thanks Darin with reply,
tracks will stall and act like machine is in neutral,no stalling. Do you have repair manual to cover this unit and how do I order? Mine is equipped with cab/air which if I understand correctly to get to clutches this requires removing seat to access, is this possible with cab? Maybe by removing rear window? I have read the other posts but to completely remove clutch assembly do you also remove the track sprocket and housing too or it simply lifts from where actuator meets brake band? Thanks again.

[darinray]

Thanks Darin with reply,
tracks will stall and act like machine is in neutral,no stalling. Do you have repair manual to cover this unit and how do I order? Mine is equipped with cab/air which if I understand correctly to get to clutches this requires removing seat to access, is this possible with cab? Maybe by removing rear window? I have read the other posts but to completely remove clutch assembly do you also remove the track sprocket and housing too or it simply lifts from where actuator meets brake band? Thanks again.


Yes i do have your parts and the repair manuals and would need your s/n to confirm. You can contact me anytime at dmm@inbox.as

To be able to remove the steering clutches I would think you would have to take the cab off unless there is room for you to stand at the back and leaning over for a couple hours. :( Send me a pic of the cab setup and then I could tell.

Not the tracks don't have to come off but just have the dozer in the air with proper blocking so you can spin the tracks manually.

Darin

[FurakawaMatt]

A follow on question re: Steering problems Furukawa CD5. I notice the level on the dipstick located in front of the main brake is low. I also notice the fluid on the dipstick beneath the seat behind the steering levers is milky. Would either of these cause issues with being able to steer the dozer?

[FurakawaMatt]

An oh BTW, the pins and bushing kit for the swamp treads are Berco Kit:
KM -910

Oil filter:
Wix - 51261
Carquest - 85261

Fuel filter:
Wix - 33394
Carquest - 86394

[darinray]

Matt, I would say that the oil level in the front one is either your clutch or your tranny dipstick and if it's low enough that would give the steering pump not pressure to be able to release the clutches. Your issue sounds like the clutches are gone or wet with oil when they are suppose to be dry. I think a teardown is in order to find whats really wrong. I can get you parts for your machine but you'll want to choke me becaue the prices are HIGH. :( Contact me anytime though.

Darin

[dozerdame]

Start with an oil change and strainer and filter change. That is the simple and least expensive fix. :) Let us know how you make out.

Darin

Where exactly is the filter? We have found two filters under the hood but aren't sure which one is the hydraulic filter. Or maybe we are looking in the wrong place. One filer says NAPA coolant filter 4070 and the other says lube 6136-51 Komatsu and is attached to a yellow bracket 6136-51-5111. Think I'm going to call the dealer tomorrow to see if they can help us figure it out.

[darinray]

Yeah the dealer shoudl be able to help you out. With your serial number I can look all that up. Let me know if you need it.

Darin

[dozerdame]

The serial number that I found under the seat is 06803

[FurakawaMatt]

Thank you for the reply Darinray. I figured the clutches were probably gone. Not sure if I have the ability to do a tear down repair. Though it is good to know that parts might be available even if expensive. I might just sell the old machine and pass on to a buyer the person to get parts from.

[JimInOz]

Regarding Furukawa Matt's postings...
I'm trying to contact any owners of FURUKAWA CT5 & CD5 Crawlers,plus owners of HITACHI DX40/45 Dozers.
I want to get a list of owners & parts compiled,as aftermarket parts are extremely hard to get.
If you want to join the list,send contact details & any parts sources to myself:
dozerparts@gmail.com

Jim

[darinray]

Thank you for the reply Darinray. I figured the clutches were probably gone. Not sure if I have the ability to do a tear down repair. Though it is good to know that parts might be available even if expensive. I might just sell the old machine and pass on to a buyer the person to get parts from.

What are you figuring this thing is worth. i might buy it for parts IF the price is very reasonable. :) You can send me a email at dmm@inbox.as if you wish.

Darin

[darinray]

The serial number that I found under the seat is 06803

Your filter is on the tank on the right side right next to where you would add oil to it. Held on by 4 bolts and you can check that and or clean it. if it's your pump then you could have it check out or at least take a pressure reading off it. Hope you figure it out.

Darin

[FurakawaMatt]

Regarding Furukawa Matt's postings...
I'm trying to contact any owners of FURUKAWA CT5 & CD5 Crawlers,plus owners of HITACHI DX40/45 Dozers.
I want to get a list of owners & parts compiled,as aftermarket parts are extremely hard to get.
If you want to join the list,send contact details & any parts sources to myself:
dozerparts@gmail.com

Jim Will you got one supplier of parts mentioned (darinray) and I mentioned the oil, fuel filter and PB. BTW the Dozer I have is Serial number 611-6968 and the engine has S4E on its side and is probably mitsubishi since the dozers ignition key has the symbol stamped on it. As for joining a list, being that you are in Australia it would not make any sense due to distance, but thanks for the offer.

[FurakawaMatt]

What are you figuring this thing is worth. i might buy it for parts IF the price is very reasonable. :) You can send me a email at dmm@inbox.as if you wish.

Darin
Just to follow up on this, darinray and I did communicate but as of now did not reach a price. Distance to transport can really add to the cost of these machines. Something to keep in mind if someone buys out of State.

[dozerdame]

Your filter is on the tank on the right side right next to where you would add oil to it. Held on by 4 bolts and you can check that and or clean it. if it's your pump then you could have it check out or at least take a pressure reading off it. Hope you figure it out.

Darin

Darin,
Thanks for the info. I have gotten the problem resolved. You will think I'm an idiot, and you will be right!
I called the Komatsu dealer today and they agreed to send someone out to look at the dozer for free if it was just a problem with low hydraulic fluid. I was sure the fluid was right up there because I had checked it with the dip stick.
When the mechanic got here, he discovered that there was not one drop of hydraulic fluid in my dozer. Turns out that the dip stick is for the transmission fluid. There is a sight gauge for the hydraulic fluid. At least I know that now. Both hydraulic cylinders are leaking, which I already knew, so I will probably have to drop 1K or so at some point to get those fixed. But I can just add more fluid for the time being.
Anyway, they topped me off and it will cost me about $80 for the fluid, so I can get back to plowing my driveway as it is snowing again in northern Michigan.
Sheila

[darinray]

Well at least it's fixed for the time being. :)

[mp0033price]

Hi. I'm trying to find out some info. for my uncle who has purchased a dozer. It's a komatsu d20 P-6

How do you find out year? Serial number 68240.

He's looking for a junked dozer of the same make & model near eastern Ky to purchase for parts. Any ideas guys?

How much is average for a decent condition radiator? Any one have one for sale?

anyone have a copy of a manual reasonable. He has a cd, but would prefer a book.
THanks in advance for any replys

[darinray]

It's a 1989 model.

If he has the cd just have it print it off and put it in a binder. That is your cheapest bet. Take it to some copying place with yoru cd.

I would say you could spend up to $500 for a radiator depending on condition. I don't have one for your -6.

[mp0033price]

;)
It's a 1989 model.

If he has the cd just have it print it off and put it in a binder. That is your cheapest bet. Take it to some copying place with yoru cd.

I would say you could spend up to $500 for a radiator depending on condition. I don't have one for your -6.

thanks darinray!

[Glock]

Yes i do have your parts and the repair manuals and would need your s/n to confirm. You can contact me anytime at dmm@inbox.as

To be able to remove the steering clutches I would think you would have to take the cab off unless there is room for you to stand at the back and leaning over for a couple hours. :( Send me a pic of the cab setup and then I could tell.

Not the tracks don't have to come off but just have the dozer in the air with proper blocking so you can spin the tracks manually.

Darin

Sent an email to ya but maybe you didn't receive. My serial is :79105, needing repair manual. I will send pics soon to answer if you think clutch could be removed without pulling cab.
Thanks
Thanks

[Glock]

Sent an email to ya but maybe you didn't receive. My serial is :79105, needing repair manual. I will send pics soon to answer if you think clutch could be removed without pulling cab.
Thanks
Thanks

Here are some pics of machine.
Thanks Darin

[darinray]

It looks like the cab has to come off. Too much stuff in the way really. BUT you can try it with it on and maybe it would just take a lot longer to do but would be do-able. :) Keep us posted.

Nice looking machine.

[maniac]

I love that cab,,

[TIREDIRON]

Welcome to HEF rangerfreak! :drinkup

Ijust wanted some info on proper trailering equipment.

[TIREDIRON]

Trailer hauling excavator under 5 ton? Do you need to tie down on the bucket. Thanks .

[TIREDIRON]

Where might i find the law on hauling trailer with small excavator etc....

[rangerfreak]

Need a decently priced source for a throttle cable for my d20 komatsu dozer thanks for your time

[darinray]

Your looking at $145 delivered. Give me your model so I can make sure it's for your machine.

Darin

[rangerfreak]

d20a-5

[darinray]

yup I have those. Let me know.

Darin

[amunderdog]

Trailer hauling excavator under 5 ton? Do you need to tie down on the bucket. Thanks .

This thread has some info: http://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/Forum/showthread.php?t=13923&highlight=chains
As always it depends on the state involved.
I wish they would standardise the laws.

[rangerfreak]

need a source for an alternator for the same model dozer

[rangerfreak]

which is a d20A-5.
thank you for your time

[oldhousehugger]

how much for a reman starter for a D20 pl 6

[darinray]

how much for a reman starter for a D20 pl 6

what number do you have on your starter?

[oldhousehugger]

Komatsu D20 PL 6A
Serial # 60357

Engine model # 4D95S

Starter Nikko
# 600-813-3170
serial # 023000-0100
24V
2.8 KW
7D23

Norestart relay # 025000-6970
24V
Nikko

What it's doing is it will barely turn her over 1 revolution and then it kicks out and just revs the starter motor. Ring gear is OK. Starter drive gear appears to have little wear. Generally she will start after a couple of tries and it's a cinch I'll never over heat it. I pulled it apart and cleaned up the commutator. The brushes and springs looked good. I relubricated it before reassembling it, but it works no differently. The starter motor drive gear turns very freely with no drag. Somebody told me that indicates the bendix clutch is shot.

I even 86’d the norestart relay and put in a 24 volt starter switch relay in its place. Ironically it works no better and no worse than it did before I started trying to fix it. What is the Hippocratic Oath?

I will prescribe regimens for the good of my patients according to my ability and my judgment and never do harm to anyone. (or machine)

Ideas?
John

[Sal.Monella]

Firefighting in Central Texas can be a pain. I've got a D21 that was burned over during the Wilderness Ridge fire back in February of this year. There was so many other pieces of equipment damaged or destroyed during this fire that I'm just now getting around to the dozer. I'll post pictures when I can. What I need more than anything else is advice. I'm having to decide whether or not this machine can be saved and if so, is there a good source of used parts? Horrible way for this great little dozer to die. If you're curious about the fire itself, here is a link. http://txforestservice.tamu.edu/uploadedFiles/FRP/2WildernessRidgeCaseStudy.pdf Thanks in advance to all y'all who take the time to help others.

Salvador Monella (SASS Handle)

[darinray]

Will be able to tell a bit better when we see pics.

Darin

[rangerfreak]

im new to dozers and i have a small problem with my d20a-5.the problem is there is a leak at a case that is to the inside of the track on the back of the dozer,there is also a plug that i can fit a socket wrench in and i was wondering if this is where i fill it at and what kind of fluid can i use.also how much do i fill it

thanks for your time and have a nice day

[darinray]

Where is the leak? By the sprocket? That takes 30W engine oil. I've heard people putting 80/90 in it too but the book says 30W. Fill it up to the top plug that is facing away from the machine.

[rangerfreak]

thanks i really appreciate your help.
happy holidays

[darinray]

No prob. Merry Christmas

Darin

[Glock]

It looks like the cab has to come off. Too much stuff in the way really. BUT you can try it with it on and maybe it would just take a lot longer to do but would be do-able. :) Keep us posted.

Nice looking machine.

Hi Darin,
Thanks for taking call on Sunday. After I removed inspection plug from underneath and drained about 1 qt oil on left side, right side was dry, the clutches slowly began to engage again. I now understand the chattering noise that was developing during this process of the left track not pulling, clutches slipping do to oil. As clutches began to dry the chattering developed again but track was pulling and eventually ceased making noise. I will call you soon for repair manual and advise of which oil level drops.
Thanks again for your support.

[darinray]

Check your final drive oil as well just becaue of the chattering noise. To get a real good look it's not a bad idea to just change the oil out that way you can see condition of oil.

Darin

[rangerfreak]

How many quarts of oil does a d20A-5 engine hold.
thanks and happy holidays

[darinray]

8 qts 15W-40 diesel oil.

[rangerfreak]

does my komatsu d21a-5 have the 4D95S engine in it,i was just wondering because its been burning oil and am guessing it might need a rebuild kit or something like similar.
thank you for your time and support and have a happy holiday

[Sal.Monella]

Will be able to tell a bit better when we see pics.

Darin

I've got photos on the way. It believe it looks worse than it is. It won't be cheap, but we've only $1200.00 invested in it. I'm going to make the call on whether or not I can get it to start. The oil in the pan looks fine. anybody got wiring schematics and maybe a wiring diagram for this wee beastie?

What I know I'm going to have to replace:

All the hoses
radiator
alternator
fuel lines
fuel cap
hydraulic tank cap
blade control seals
instrumentation
wiring
seat and seat deck
batts

Most of that stuff I can do with parts I can pick up at A&B Automotive if I had wiring diagrams / schematics.

Once I hear the engine run I'll go from there.

Any help would be greatly appreciated and if you know of any used parts sources that would be fantastic.

Mercy Buckets y'all and have a Very Merry Christmas.

Scott
Captain Hwy 71 Station
Heart of the Pines VFD
Smithville TX

[rangerfreak]

does my komatsu d21a-5 have the 4D95S engine in it,i was just wondering because its been burning oil and am guessing it might need a rebuild kit or something like similar.
thank you for your time and support and have a happy holiday

[darinray]

It should say right on the engine tag plate. But yours is a 4D94.

Darin

[rangerfreak]

Thanks darin you saved me from posably ordering the wrong part in the future.

[rangerfreak]

sry darin made a typo on dozer model number my dozer is actually a d20A-5 is the correct engine 4d95s,cant find the tag plate

[darinray]

Nope yours is a 4D94.

[rangerfreak]

merry xmas eve everyone.have a happy holidays

[Ron]

I'm using a D20 to build a driveway around my shop. There's a lot of dirt to be removed on one side and the problem I'm having is I'll be pushing along, going great, and all of a sudden the blade will nose-dive making a huge gouge. What have I got to do to make it quit this?:Banghead

[FurakawaMatt]

I'm using a D20 to build a driveway around my shop. There's a lot of dirt to be removed on one side and the problem I'm having is I'll be pushing along, going great, and all of a sudden the blade will nose-dive making a huge gouge. What have I got to do to make it quit this?:Banghead
I have found when having to remove a lot of topsoil that for me it works best to break it into stages. First is the rough in stage where you get the majority of material off. It is best not to try to push the whole ground but to start on the end you are moving soil towards and than as the soil is moved off, keep moving backwards . This way you are not pushing against greater resistance for a longer way.

Once you have removed the bulk you can do the finishing where you are only moving smaller amounts of soil so the weight of the soil is less likely to cause you to dig in. It can also helps running in a higher gear and doing a very light cut. Some dozer blades can float but unless you are careful you can end up with a constant series of up and downs as the blade grabs a rock or root.

It comes down to the skill of the operator and the ability of the machine to end up with a level smooth surface. Some of the laser blade levelers that the big boys can afford must be great to have. I just have a simple two way bubble level that I attached to my Dozer when I knew I was on a level surface that provides a visual quick check for me.

Good fortune on your driveway project.

[Ron]

That's what I was afraid of..

[JimInOz]

Just wondering if I need to remove the Bevel gear to renew the 2 seals near the steering cases.Both seals are leaking oil from bevel case to steering cases.I was hoping to just remove the steer drum couplings.
Has anybody done this job before?

Thanks,
Jim

[Wylie5]

Hi, Now that you have had your machine for a while do you thik that you will be installing a set of doing rippers on her soon.

Cheers Wheelybin.



I think this MIGHT do it. Ran it about six hours today. No problems at all. Other than the dog.

[joemorgan]

Can anyone tell me the procedure for adjusting the valves on a 1988 D20A-6 4D95S-W-1 engine and the adjustment specs? The owners manual says to adjust every 2000 hours, how critical is this?

[darinray]

Just wondering if I need to remove the Bevel gear to renew the 2 seals near the steering cases.Both seals are leaking oil from bevel case to steering cases.I was hoping to just remove the steer drum couplings.
Has anybody done this job before?

Thanks,
Jim

Hello Jim,

Did you get to the bevel gear seals yet? I think it's all done inside from the steering clutch compartment. You have to take the flange off and then replace seal. Keep us posted and hopefully your better than me and actually take pictures while you work. :) I can't seem to remember to grab the camera when I'm all greasy. :) A lot of people here do and I think that is GREAT. Take care and good luck.

Darin

[JimInOz]

Hello Jim,

Did you get to the bevel gear seals yet? I think it's all done inside from the steering clutch compartment. You have to take the flange off and then replace seal. Keep us posted and hopefully your better than me and actually take pictures while you work. :) I can't seem to remember to grab the camera when I'm all greasy. :) A lot of people here do and I think that is GREAT. Take care and good luck.

Darin

Hi Darin,
I always take pictures as I go.I find it invaluable,esp. if the repair is gonna take some time & things fade from memory.Last BS3 steering repair I did was 10 years ago...on an E model.I still have pictures of that job.

I'm thinking that the flange will pull out & make seal replacement easy.....however,I have tried using 3 extractor bolts (on the LH side)& put some pull on the flange,but it's not gonna move easily.I don't want to put too much stress on the bevel bearings,so I'm wondering about my next move.
I think I'll try pulling the steering from the RH side & see if that flange will pull out.The steering needs to come out anyway.
My main concern is hurting the bevel bearings,whilst pulling the flanges.
Any thoughts are welcome...

PICTURES: First is my BS3F breakdown ( bevel shaft & flanges ,with no bevel in pic) & Second is my LH steering after removal.

Thanks
Jim

[darinray]

Shoot it sounds like you have a handle on this then. Normally the flanges come off with the extractor bolts applied with even pressure. All of a sudden *bang* and it's loose. Or try some wedges driving in between flange and the body. Heat is never fun down there as the torches normally start a nice fire and smoke BUT sometimes is only way. I keep a garden hose right by. :( Good luck and keep us posted.

Darin

[JimInOz]

Hi Darin,
I'm hoping the flange is just a bit tight & will extract with that sudden "BANG!" that we like to hear.
The steering shaft/flange took a bit of pressing before it made that noise....

I was wondering about heat in that area...it might make extraction easy,but with oil & degreaser in the steer case,I ain't going there just yet...;)

Jim

[maniac]

Jim,
Please use caution when useing a torch in an area where degreaser has been applied . I read an article a while back about some degreasers put off toxic fumes when heated . The article was about a man found dead in his shop where he had been working on his car , trying to remove a breakdrum that had been cleaned with a spray degreaser , by heating it with a torch . Please look into it furthur , I know we have all done it but they are useing different chemicals all the time now.. after I read that , I don't do that anymore , thanks for reading , Paul

[maniac]

I found a link on degreasers being heated , everyone please read this , it COULD save your life , thanks , Paul
http://www.brewracingframes.com/id75.htm

[JimInOz]

Hi Paul,
I'll read your link shortly.
I'm usually very cautious with flame & any chemicals I use in the shed.
I found out that degreaser burns easy ,when I welded a bolt I was trying to extract ,& it caught fire after being cleaned in degreaser.
I built my shed with 3 sides only,so airflow ain't a drama here.

On a side note,I found that the degreaser SEEMED to clean up my oily/greasy fibre steering discs.I tidied them up with degreaser,wiped them clean,air-dried them & used brake cleaner on them.
They look OK,but unsure how they will perform....

Here's some pics of my BS3F steering...

Jim

[maniac]

I hope you do take the time to read it , it's not about it being flammable , its about one little wiff can kill you days later , just trying to help , thanks , Paul

[JimInOz]

Ok Guys,
I got my Mitsubishi BS3F Bevel seals out,without too much hassle.
While everything is well made on these machines,their tech manuals are typically Japanese...sparse info on step-by-step procedures.Compared to IH service manuals,the Jap stuff is a failure.
Anyway,I'm gonna replace the leaky seals & the advice is to fill the seal lip with grease.Why the grease? Is it to keep seal expanded,or for sealing ability?

I'm wondering if there are any other tips or checks I should make,while I'm this far into the machine?
Any advice is appreciated.

(First pic is general bevel area,second pic is extracting hubs to get to bevel seals.)

Thanks,

Jim

[darinray]

Hello Jim, nice work there and looks like you keep things nice and clean while working too> :) What is the weld on your right side clutch area wall?

The grease I've been told is just for lube and keep the rubber coated so it doesn't dry out. ????

[JimInOz]

Hi Darin,
Thanks for the advice on the grease.I just filled it up anyway,thinking it wasn't gonna do much harm.
The weld is an original casing weld,although I noticed that this machine had a few rough-looking welds,even on the hubs.Seems to be strong enough,though.
Yeah,I like to tidy up the work area...nothing worse that dropping a clean bolt into a heap of goo ..I tend to clean & wash everything,which is why I take forever to fix something.

[darinray]

Oh I wasn't sure on that weld area. :) It looks like you do nice work though. It sure is nice to work in a clean area. Its a smelly dusting oily crapy mess when first working on steering clutches thats for sure.

Take care and thanks again for all the pics and info.

[JimInOz]

Darin,
You are right...that weld has been done after machine was built.
Looks like somebody has replaced the angled plate...the weld is just a join weld from 2 joined plates.
I wonder if someone was trying to do a steering repair & removed the original plate to get more room to move ??

The Mitsubishis seem to have their own unique smell in the steering cases.
I usually put on a nose mask when cleaning this area.It can get smelly & dusty.

Jim

[KTBAUGH]

Hello everyone,
just joined this forum today because i see that everyone's having questions about the mitsubishi and komatsu dozers. We are a heavy equipment and parts sales company in east texas. We primarily sell parts for the smaller dozers but we can get parts for just about anything with our 2 parts locator systems. Send us a message if you have any questions or need parts for your equipment.

Thank you,

Kent Baugh Equipment

[Sal.Monella]

After the fire I discovered the following. I got off very easy. Radiator is good as is the oil cooler. Starter is fine but the solenoid is toast. Fuel injection system is fine but the alternator and radiator fan are damaged beyond repair. I have to replace all the instrument cluster. (no biggie there. I've made harnesses for electric vehicles before) Throttle cable is bad but not because of the fire. Jury is still out on the hydraulic pump. All the plugs, dipsticks etc are fine. I guess I'll be sending Mr Baugh more of our money. (Thanks by the way to the KTBaugh folks. Very nice, and extremely helpful)

Now for the stupid question. What is that little parasitic relay, electronics module that's wedged between the starter and the solenoid? It's burned to a crisp. Was it some type of glow plug timer/relay? It's not on any of my schematics.

Once again I'm working on the photos. (I never remember to bring my camera with me) Oh well, off to work on the tender.

[maniac]

I am having a little problem with the clutch on my d206...the clutch will not Disengage until the machine warms up and then it works fine , when cold you cannot put it in gear and if you do get it in you can not get it out ,..if the wrong oil is in transmission , would it cause this??My manual says 10 w oil. I went to the tractor supply place here and they said that is just hydralic fluid..is this true??? I don't know whats in it now , but it seems a little thick for 10 w....any help on this would be greatly appreciated,,,Paul

[darinray]

10W engine oil not hydraulic oil in clutch reservoir and 10W in tranny up to 50 degree F then you are suppose to put in 30W for a range of 0 degrees to and up. Put in the 30 weight.

When you try to get it in gear does it just grind gears? If so you have to adjust (tighten) your intertia brake around your drive shaft.

Darin

[KTBAUGH]

HELLO MANIAC,

YOU ARE BETTER OFF RUNNING A 30W OR 15W40 MOTOR OIL IN THE MAIN CLUTCH HOUSING. YOU CAN ALSO RUN MOTOR OIL IN THE TRANS/REAR DIFFERENTIAL. HERE IN TEXAS WE RUN 90W GEAR OIL IN THE TRANS/REAR DIFFERENTIAL. YOU WILL SEE BETTER RESULTS WITH THE HEAVIER OIL IN THE CLUTCH HOUSING. I KNOW WHAT KOMATSU BOOKS SAY, BUT WE'VE WORKED ON 100'S OF THESE DOZERS AND OUR LOCAL KOMATSU DEALER CALLS US FOR ADVICE.

THANKS,

KENT BAUGH EQUIPMENT www.ktbaugh.com

[darinray]

:) :) :)

[KTBAUGH]

:dizzy:dizzy:dizzy

[darinray]

Oops...

[Glock]

HELLO MANIAC,

YOU ARE BETTER OFF RUNNING A 30W OR 15W40 MOTOR OIL IN THE MAIN CLUTCH HOUSING. YOU CAN ALSO RUN MOTOR OIL IN THE TRANS/REAR DIFFERENTIAL. HERE IN TEXAS WE RUN 90W GEAR OIL IN THE TRANS/REAR DIFFERENTIAL. YOU WILL SEE BETTER RESULTS WITH THE HEAVIER OIL IN THE CLUTCH HOUSING. I KNOW WHAT KOMATSU BOOKS SAY, BUT WE'VE WORKED ON 100'S OF THESE DOZERS AND OUR LOCAL KOMATSU DEALER CALLS US FOR ADVICE.

THANKS,

KENT BAUGH EQUIPMENT www.ktbaugh.com


KT, are you able to drain clutch housing through inspection plate or do you need to remove belly pan to gain access. Also would you recommend cleaning filter at the same time?
Thanks Glen

[KTBAUGH]

Hello,

there should be a plate you can remove from the rear belly pan to get to the drain plug on the clutch housing. It is not a bad idea to clean the filter while you are in the area. Let me know if you have any further questions.

Thanks,

kent baugh equipment www.ktbaugh.com

[maniac]

Thanks Darin and KT., I guess I will drain it and try straight 30w . I can't find 10W around here anywhere..I don't know whats in there now so better safe than sorry...I don't know if its the band or not , more like plates sticking together because when I press clutch it keeps pulling , after about 10 min or so it starts working right ?? it doesn't set up alot and its like that everyday if you are useing it everyday...I have adjusted linkage just like it shows in the shop manual , I just thought if it had the wrong oil in it , it might cause this...one more question if you don't mind...can you run hydralic fluid in the resovoir for the blade??? it says 10w oil also...Hope I'm not asking to many questions at once or repeating something thats been said before in the forum,,,,thanks again , Paul

[KTBAUGH]

You can run a premium hydraulic fluid in the hydraulic tank.

Thanks,

kent baugh equipment www.ktbaugh.com

[Glen2]

I donot know if I am in the right place for my question, but here gos. I have a D21p. I have a crack that has been welded and cracked again on the front fork that holds and lifts the blade. I was told that there was a kit available to repair this. Anybody know anything about this? Thanks, G

[MrKomatsu]

Hello...i've worked for a Komatsu dealer for many yrs....I 2 have noe heard of a kit..but there is a parts and service news bulliten on th e repair procedure. i will find it and post it for u ...

[Glen2]

:)Thank you for your replys. G

[Ron]

If a machine is needing "pins and bushings", is that referring to the hydraulic cylinders and other pivot points of moving parts or to the pins that hold the links of the track together?

BTW, very thankful for this forum. Would love to know the cumulative years of experience represented here.:notworthy

[MrKomatsu]

27yrs.heavy equip. repair here.........you are correct and also the undercarraige would come under the pin/bushing group....

[QuickTrax]

15 years in aftermarket undercarriage sales and service

[darinray]

42 years total so far....Well that is between the 2 of them above. :) Actually not much from me really as I've only been in business for 5 years going on 6 this year. Actually I would rather sell the equipment without working on them but that doesn't happen much at all. :) That is why I have ample parts laying around or the resources to find them.

Darin

[maniac]

I am rather new on the forum , but I have to say ,,for you guys with the knowledge and experience to give your time on here to help people with their little dozers is to be applauded...THANK YOU, Paul

[Frank Dozer]

I have a 1985 Komatsu D21A-5. Is there an add on for a rear PTO that can be installed or added on the dozer factory or otherwise and how about a 3 point hitch? I really don't want to buy a Nortrac Dozer just for those items.

[KTBAUGH]

Frank
there should be a shaft inside the round cover on the back of the dozer that a pto shaft can be hooked up to but you have to have the drive shaft that connects inside to come out the back of the machine. The problem is, finding a good used 3 point to put on it because purchasing one from komatsu is out of the question. You would spend more on a new one than you can buy another machine for. I would stay away from the nortrac "chinese dozers" because they just wont hold up and parts are a nightmare.

Kent baugh
www.ktbaugh.com

[Frank Dozer]

Well then, since the PTO is out of the question, does anyone know the lines I can tap into to at least add a valve so as I can operate a hydraulic cylinder for a 3 point hitch? Also any plans for a Catagory I hitch? Anyone have a 3 point hitch on their Kaomatsu dozer?

[reddog848]

Kent or Darin, I have a shut-off problem with my Mitsubishi. When I turn the key off the solenoid will not pull up as it should. It doesn't always do it but most of the time it won't shut down.:Banghead I have the manuals and I can't see 24 volts at the terminal on top, I have tried to trace it back and I just can't seem to see it at the terminal when I turn off the key or while it is on. After I manually pull up the lever itwill shut off and sometimes will work for a few times after that. I thought the lever may be sticking but that doesn't seem to be it. Do you think the solenoid is bad or am I just losing or not dis-connecting the 24 volts? Or does it have 24 V all the time? :beatsme Looks like it's a nightmare to change that solenoid.:eek: Hope you guys can help me with this. By the way Kent, you have worked on this dozer before. You put new seal in the right rear side about 2 years ago and I have to tell everyone how great you guys treat people there at your place, I have sent or told many how reasonable and nice you guys are:notworthy keep it up and thanks for any help.:)
Fred
reddog848@gmail.com

[KTBAUGH]

hello fred,

the mitsubishi is a very good dozer but their only fall back is the electrical systems. there is probably a short somewhere in the system but finding it is almost impossible. at our shop we find a hot wire under the dash, run it to a push button switch and then to the solenoid. after you have done this, you will just be able to push the button to kill the machine. thanks for your comments.

kent baugh
www.ktbaugh.com

[reddog848]

Thank you very much!!:) I was wondering if I could do that and I sure appreciate your info. What you are saying is I will apply 24V when I push the button OR will it dis-connect the 24V when pushed?:confused: If it removes the voltage then that tells me I should "always" have 24V to that terminal, is that right?:Pointhead
Fred

[KTBAUGH]

when you push the button it will send 24v to the solenoid.

kent baugh
www.ktbaugh.com

[reddog848]

Kent, never mind....I re-read you post and now I understand.:eek: The button will apply 24V to the solenoid when pushed and will be ready for the next time.:)
Thanks again, hope to see y'all sometime soon.

Fred

[darinray]

OR you can try and change your starter stop timer that is located under the dash (little black box)on the right side of the machine. You gain access by lifting the hood.

Darin

[darinray]

I've had it be a key switch too though. :(

[reddog848]

Thanks Darin, I already tried the key switch and that didn't work. I don't know about the start stop timer box, I know where it is but Not what it does.:confused: Thanks for the help.

Fred

[darinray]

If you feel like trying it and that doesn't fix it I'll buy it off you and keep on my shelf for future use. Keep us posted what you find.

Darin

[darinray]

Boy those puppies are expensive and forgot how much until I verified price yesterday with Mitsubishi. IF I was the end user I would just put a pull cable on the fuel shutoff and get rid of the electric side of it all together. I am use to having to fix a machine the proper way because all I do is resell them but at over $200 for that little start stop timer you can buy one heck of a pull cable and never have to worry about it again. Keep us posted and my offer does still stand.

Darin

[reddog848]

Thanks Darin, I was going to do just that with a linkage of some sort. I had a design in my mind but that lever is very close to the side of the block there isn't much room to get anything except maybe a small mower wire type in there. I bought a push button horn type switch and wired to 24V supply and it works really good. The only problem is that you have to hold it down till the engine is completely dead or it will keep running. I did figure out that is what the black box does... holds the lever up a few seconds till it dies. OH well..this will work fine and is better than nothing, (cheaper too):D at least I can shut it off without having to raise the hood or remove a side panel.:) I am guessing that Kent was right about the short some where...:Banghead I have looked but haven't found it yet.
Thank both of you for the info and help with it.:notworthy

Fred

[KTBAUGH]

no problem, glad you took my advice. its the best way to fix the problem.

thanks,
kent baugh
www.ktbaugh.com

[Sal.Monella]

does anybody know what Komatsu part# 705-67-01440 does when it's not hiding in a little yellow envelope on my desk? I'm assuming it goes to the Hydraulic controller but I know where assuming has gotten me in the past. Mercy buckets in advance...

Spot

[KTBAUGH]

hello,

this is a back up ring that goes in the hydraulic pump on the side of the engine.

thanks,
kent baugh
www.ktbaugh.com

[Sal.Monella]

hello,

this is a back up ring that goes in the hydraulic pump on the side of the engine.

thanks,
kent baugh
www.ktbaugh.com

I thought there was just the two o-rings and the shaft seal in the pump. Where on earth would you fit that thing inside the pump? Or does it go between the pump housing and the alternator bracket? I've a 55mm o-ring that claims to live there.

[Sal.Monella]

The fax told me what I needed to know. (that I'm missing a part). I guess I need to buy a parts book sooner than later. I'll get that water pump out to you very shortly. That said, is that little mutant drive shaft rebuildable or does it need to be replaced as a unit.

Once again thanks and I'm sure I'll be buying more parts from you shortly. This is a big change from working on brush trucks.

spot

[KTBAUGH]

hello,

you should be able to just get the joints but i can check on it monday.

thanks,

kent baugh
www.ktbaugh.com

[Sal.Monella]

I got my parts book in and it is a life saver. I've had the owners manual and service manuals for a while and they're weak compared to the parts book.

[Ron]

I was wondering about the prices I've been given on parts - what do y'all think? It's for a D20P-6:

Chain with pads $1826 (single grouser)
chain w/o pads $1000, pads $22 ea
top rollers $127
bottom rollers $128

I failed to get a price on the sprockets. Shop labor $68 / hr. Are these prices competitive?

[oldhousehugger]

I was wondering about the prices I've been given on parts - what do y'all think? It's for a D20P-6:

Chain with pads $1826 (single grouser)
chain w/o pads $1000, pads $22 ea
top rollers $127
bottom rollers $128

I failed to get a price on the sprockets. Shop labor $68 / hr. Are these prices competitive?

Ron
I paid about 80 bucks each for non OEM bottom rollers from Heavyquip in Irving Texas 2 years ago.
John

[jwebb]

HELLO MANIAC,

YOU ARE BETTER OFF RUNNING A 30W OR 15W40 MOTOR OIL IN THE MAIN CLUTCH HOUSING. YOU CAN ALSO RUN MOTOR OIL IN THE TRANS/REAR DIFFERENTIAL. HERE IN TEXAS WE RUN 90W GEAR OIL IN THE TRANS/REAR DIFFERENTIAL. YOU WILL SEE BETTER RESULTS WITH THE HEAVIER OIL IN THE CLUTCH HOUSING. I KNOW WHAT KOMATSU BOOKS SAY, BUT WE'VE WORKED ON 100'S OF THESE DOZERS AND OUR LOCAL KOMATSU DEALER CALLS US FOR ADVICE.

THANKS,

KENT BAUGH EQUIPMENT www.ktbaugh.com

I have a Komatsu D21 and the steering controls don't seem to be responding as they should. Going forward, it doesn't want to turn left. In reverse, it doesn't want to turn right.

Could this problem be related to low oil levels (or wrong oil) in the transmission case and/or transfer, bevel gear case?

Is the trans/rear differential you speak of above the same as the transfer, bevel gear that I see on page 21 of the operator's manual?

Is the main clutch housing you speak of above and the transmission case on the D21 the same thing?

Just trying to figure out what oil I need for these...

Also just could not believe that I needed engine oil for the hydraulics. Is Rotella OK for that?

Thanks for your help. You guys are amazing.

[K5Cruz]

I have a Komatsu D21 and the steering controls don't seem to be responding as they should. Going forward, it doesn't want to turn left. In reverse, it doesn't want to turn right.

Could this problem be related to low oil levels (or wrong oil) in the transmission case and/or transfer, bevel gear case?

Is the trans/rear differential you speak of above the same as the transfer, bevel gear that I see on page 21 of the operator's manual?

Is the main clutch housing you speak of above and the transmission case on the D21 the same thing?

Just trying to figure out what oil I need for these...

Also just could not believe that I needed engine oil for the hydraulics. Is Rotella OK for that?

Thanks for your help. You guys are amazing.

I'd be interested in hearing ideas on the directional problem as well, my 21 has recently only been turning left when I pull the lever all the way to the stop.

[Danny B]

I have two questions. Probably read the answer in the past but can't remember.
1. I need to put in grease to tighten the tracks. Could not get the zerks to take it. Used an ice pick to make sure the ball was loose and spring was flexing. All seemed ok, but still wouldn't take grease. Any tricks or advise on this?
2. Right steering lever works great. Left is another story. I can get it to turn, but it pulls the engine. Apparently clutch is not releasing. Is there an adjustment I can do?
Well I guess I need a third question.
3. Where is a good source of manuals? I only have owners manual from dealer.
Thanks a bunch for all the good info you guys provide. And thanks to the newbies (like me) for asking all the questions.

[chuckster]

1st post. We have a 21p with rubber tracks that we use for fine grade and backfill operations that has been a great asset to our company.

[KTBAUGH]

Hello everyone,

these are the oils that we use on the d21:

Engine: 15w40 motor oil
transmission: 30w or 15w40 motor oil
rear differential: 90w gear oil
final drives: 90w gear oil

these are the oils that we use on the d20:

Engine: 15w40 motor oil
wet main clutch: 15w40 motor oil
transmission & rear differential: 90w gear oil
final drives: 90w gear oil
on the d20 the oil in the rear differential and transmission run together and fill at the dipstick at the rear of the floor.

Thanks,
kent baugh
www.ktbaugh.com




i have a komatsu d21 and the steering controls don't seem to be responding as they should. Going forward, it doesn't want to turn left. In reverse, it doesn't want to turn right.

Could this problem be related to low oil levels (or wrong oil) in the transmission case and/or transfer, bevel gear case?

Is the trans/rear differential you speak of above the same as the transfer, bevel gear that i see on page 21 of the operator's manual?

Is the main clutch housing you speak of above and the transmission case on the d21 the same thing?

Just trying to figure out what oil i need for these...

Also just could not believe that i needed engine oil for the hydraulics. Is rotella ok for that?

Thanks for your help. You guys are amazing.

[KTBAUGH]

Hello everyone,

your steering problems can be caused by a number of things:

Wrong oil type
bad steering clutch disks
oil leaking into the clutches
bearing failure in the clutch housings
bad brake bands
low oil pressure
bad piston seals

it is hard to diagnose a problem without running the dozer or talking to someone about the problems but maybe these ideas above will help out.

Thank you,
kent baugh
www.ktbaugh.com

[KTBAUGH]

Hello everyone,

a common problem with the track tensioner is that they rust and freeze up inside not allowing them to take grease. You can try to replace the grease valve but this may not cure your problems.

Thank you,

kent baugh
www.ktbaugh.com

[Soquel_Ranch]

1st Post
I've had my D-21P7 for three years now and been amazed at how reliable and trouble free it's been. This forum has hopefully saved me some grief by pointing out some some weak points such as the steering clutch / brake, and recommended fluids, zerk care.

Is track tension/sag measured by laying a 2x4 on the treads?

Could someone submit a picture of the drain plug to confirm no oil in the clutch/brake housing?

Any hints on repairing the fiberglass sunshield (doesn't like oak limbs) or mounting an aftermarket ROPS and seatbelts?

BTW, I've driven the swamp treads short distances on an asphalt road to clear a downed tree without leaving marks. We unloaded it from the 4ft truck bed by backing up to a gravel pile, but don't recommend it because of the resulting steep angle. Plan on your new dozer showing up at dusk with the driver ia hurry...

[Soquel_Ranch]

1st Post
I've had my D-21P7 for three years now and been amazed at how reliable and trouble free it's been. This forum has hopefully saved me some grief by pointing out some some weak points such as the steering clutch / brake, and recommended fluids, zerk care.

Is track tension/sag measured by laying a 2x4 on the treads?

Could someone submit a picture of the drain plug to confirm no oil in the clutch/brake housing?

Any hints on repairing the fiberglass sunshield (doesn't like oak limbs) or mounting an aftermarket ROPS and seatbelts?

BTW, I've driven the swamp treads short distances on an asphalt road to clear a downed tree without leaving marks. We unloaded it from the 4ft truck bed by backing up to a gravel pile, but don't recommend it because of the resulting steep angle. Plan on your new dozer showing up at dusk with the driver ia hurry...

[Gregorb]

Kent, should I use the 15W40 motor oil in the wet main clutch of a BD2F?
Thanks,

[KTBAUGH]

Hello gregorb,

you can use either 15w40 or 30w in the wet clutch.

Thank you,
kent baugh
www.ktbaugh.com

[Gregorb]

Thanks for the info Kent

[couchy]

I have a Komatsu D21P-7.
The Serial number is 76112. I have been told that some of the motors are 50 hp. Some are 40hp.
Is that right and if so what motor should be in mine.

Cheers,

Gary Couch

[Dozerboy28]

I recently went and looked at a D21P-6. This is the first time I ever operated one of these little wonders and was definitly impressed, but I have a question about the shifting . When I would shift into forward 1 there was a little hesitation and then when shifted into forward 2 there was a hesitation. When shifting down it would do the same and also it would do the same on the reverse side. Just a slight hesitation between gears, but everything operated fine. Like I said this is the first one I ever operated, so is this normal.

[jwebb]

Hello everyone,
just joined this forum today because i see that everyone's having questions about the mitsubishi and komatsu dozers. We are a heavy equipment and parts sales company in east texas. We primarily sell parts for the smaller dozers but we can get parts for just about anything with our 2 parts locator systems. Send us a message if you have any questions or need parts for your equipment.

Thank you,

Kent Baugh Equipment

Kent,
How much do you get for a clutch cable for a D21 these days? Mine broke but have a temporary fix on it, but will probably replace it in the near future. BTW, thanks for your help on the lubrication issues. I Am doing some much needed maintenance on it this weekend.
Johnny

[KTBAUGH]

Hello couchy,

you will see people advertise the d20 & d21 at different horsepowers. They are all 40 horsepower. Dont let anyone lie to you.

Thanks,
kent baugh
www.ktbaugh.com

[KTBAUGH]

Hello dozerboy,

you see alot of the d21 dozers that hesitate when shifting gears especially when the transmission is cold. The transmission probably just needs to be serviced and the screen changed. The d21 transmissions are very well built and pretty much bullet proof. I have rebuilt many d31, d37 and d41 transmissions but never had to work on one from the d21.

Thanks
kent baugh
www.ktbaugh.com

[KTBAUGH]

Hello jwebb,

sorry but im not allowed to do any advertising of parts on this site.

Thanks,
kent baugh
www.ktbaugh.com

[Gregorb]

Does anyone know if the cutting edge bolts on the Komatsu's will work on a Mitsubishi BD2F?

Thanks,
Greg

[darinray]

With the cutting edges I sell for the Mitsubishi dozers they have 1/2" X 1 1/2" bolts to mount them. :)

Darin

[darinray]

Those clutch (inching) cables for the D21 run $128.26. 103-43-33350 part number... That is from Komatsu.

Darin

[darinray]

Dozerboy28 if considering a dozer you could always have it looked at by a heavy equipment mechanic before purchasing. I've have customers come out with techs and actually even some have pulled oil samples too. :) Of course I don't because it's a smart thing to do BEFORE buying. :) :)

Darin

[Dozerboy28]

This D21P-6 doesnt want to steer left. When I pull the lever nothing happens, I don't even feel a little resistance. He claims it worked fine when he parked it. The right side works fine. I am willing to do the work, but I just want to know what I am getting into. Brake band? Steering clutch? oil seal? Difficulty in this repair?:bash

[darinray]

Does the lever pull really far back with no resistance? If it does then try to tighten the brake band clearance around the drum by removing the little rear cover and turning the 17mm bolt head. If it's real tight you can put a nice cheater bar on it and make it turn with some penetrating oil too.


Did you end up buying the machien or still looking it over?

[Dozerboy28]

Hopefully buying it this weekend, going to call him with an offer shortly

[Jolley-Giant]

I have had my d20 for about 4 years, I have the occasional problem where I have let it sit too long, and the clutches need worked loose.... I have always been successful at getting them worked loose by just driving it and braking hard a few times.
However, now I have something new (to me)... the brake on the left track seems to be hanging up... I noticed a couple of time that the dozer was running as though the brake were applied (motor bogging down).... but NOT while I am pulling the steering lever... just driving normal...

I took the seat off to expose the "stuff".... I can see that the lever for the brake is "stiff" on the left side... but I can see that the right side moves easily when I pull the steering lever...

The braking lever on the left side appears to be "stuck" about halfway engaged and doesn't want to move either way much (it has a very small amount of play... and that small amount is very tight or hard to move)...

Any advice ... cool tricks to free it up would be greatly appreciated.... looks like it would be a real booger to open it up....

[darinray]

back the brake band tension off if you think it's locking up... little cover on the back side held on by 2 17mm bolts...

Does your right lever pull farther out toward you when trying to turn? If it does then it sounds like your left brake may be too tight. If not then it's probably stuck in the apply brake position. :(

You can try to just use penetrating oil on the brake lever and rotate it back and forth with a big wrench (or crescent wrench).

If that doesn't work I've had to drill and tap the collar where it rotates to put a grease fitting in it. Boy then it moves smooth. Try these and let us know how you make out.

Darin

[Jolley-Giant]

The lever pulls as expected... I can physically see the lever is pulled (and stuck) partially in the "appy brake position" ....

Since I haven't seen the inside I wasn't sure if the "stuckness" was coming from visible area where the lever shaft goes thru the housing... or if it iwas something more internal that was causing resistance....

The grease fitting sounds like a good idea ... anyone got a picture of where how they installed one? Were you able to install it in place, or did you have to remove the housing to do so?

[Gregorb]

Darin, thanks for the information. I'm turning the cutting edge on my dozer. The nuts and bolts are worn down. I ended up finding bolts at Tractor Supply. I needed 1/2 x 1 3/4. They had the 1/2 x 1 1/2, but they would have been a little short. I ended up using 1/2 x 2 and they worked out ok.

Thanks,
Greg

[darinray]

Yes you can install it in place. Just don't drill into the pin too much. As soon as it breaks through it is deep enough. You will need a short start tap to thread the hole becuase it can't be the gradual thread starter due to the lack of material and depth you go. I think it's more of a thread cleaner and not a tap. :) Same size thread from start to finish of the tap.

Sorry I don't have any pictures but you will know where to install it when you look where the rod has to move through on the external side.

Darin



The lever pulls as expected... I can physically see the lever is pulled (and stuck) partially in the "appy brake position" ....

Since I haven't seen the inside I wasn't sure if the "stuckness" was coming from visible area where the lever shaft goes thru the housing... or if it iwas something more internal that was causing resistance....

The grease fitting sounds like a good idea ... anyone got a picture of where how they installed one? Were you able to install it in place, or did you have to remove the housing to do so?

[darinray]

Glad everything worked out for you.

Darin


Darin, thanks for the information. I'm turning the cutting edge on my dozer. The nuts and bolts are worn down. I ended up finding bolts at Tractor Supply. I needed 1/2 x 1 3/4. They had the 1/2 x 1 1/2, but they would have been a little short. I ended up using 1/2 x 2 and they worked out ok.

Thanks,
Greg

[darinray]

here is the set I use.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00942275000P?vName=Tools&sName=Taps+%26+Dies&cName=Auto+%26+Mechanics+Tools

[darinray]

Here is a pic of the general spot. Put it in the easiest spot to get to. :)





The lever pulls as expected... I can physically see the lever is pulled (and stuck) partially in the "appy brake position" ....

Since I haven't seen the inside I wasn't sure if the "stuckness" was coming from visible area where the lever shaft goes thru the housing... or if it iwas something more internal that was causing resistance....

The grease fitting sounds like a good idea ... anyone got a picture of where how they installed one? Were you able to install it in place, or did you have to remove the housing to do so?

[Jolley-Giant]

Darin,
Thanks for the replies and the picture... I have an update.

Today me and the "the boys" moved the d20 into the shop and tore into it... Here was the strange thing about the brake lever... it wasn't "locked" hard... but rather it had a little bit of play and then wouldn't move any more...

I removed the housing... and the arm/shaft still had a little play but wouldn't move very far.... so, I removed the shaft... at first I thought that there were "Bushings" on the inside of the shaft-way ... but after a closer inspection I seen that it was needle bearings, and they were gunked.. but more importantly damaged in such a way that the bearing was locking up on the shaft (a loose needle was binding on the shaft).... I have a picture and will post it if I can figure out how.

So, it looks like that will be a pretty easy fix once I can get the seals and bearings... I suppose I should probably replace them in the other side since it probably isn't far behind this side...

An observation/musing ... seems to me that in the dry environment (of the dry clutch)... and factoring in the dost from the clutch/brake... that a bushing might have been a better design that the needle bearings???

I intend to add the grease zerk as well... should be pretty easy now that the housing has been removed......

But now hear is my dillema.... And let me say first that the machine has been working fine for me until this break dragging epsisode... but my dillema is this.

I have gone to all the trouble of tearing it down, and the inside of the cavity where the clutch/brake is is terribly filthy... (rust and dust)... Also, it appears to me that the adjusting bolt on the clutch arm is adjusted to the max... so I assume that the clutches are pretty worn (even though they have been performing fine)... so, do I just slap these bearings in and go till it breaks then fix it.... or do I pull change the clutches and the brake lining now while it is apart???

I see that there is bolts on both sides... can someone detail the process for removing the brake/clutch assembly now that I have the housing off?

[Jolley-Giant]

I have a picture of the bearing that I was going to post... but it appears I cannot yet post attachments???