Section for komatsu d20,21 and similar grey market dozers [Archive] - Page 3

mikesmble

03-31-2009, 11:16 PM

DR when I am backing up my right track seems to start locking up and pulls me to the right. you said I should look for oil in my brake clutches correct? i have gotten a service manual and that will help me. Any other info you can give me will be appreciated. The dealer told me $850 for an inspection and adjustment. Unless parts are needed. What do you think. Thanks again

Look at the outside around the sprocket and make sure you dont have a bearing down on your axle. Also how are your pins and bushings, I have seen buhings hang up on the sprocket when they are broken through. Drain your finals and look for metal.

darinray

03-31-2009, 11:17 PM

Oh yeah... both aftermarket and I have OEM. The inner hubs are a different story and are from Komatsu though. :( With the work you had done I'm sure you won't have to bother with that again thank goodness.

Darin

Danny B

04-06-2009, 11:07 PM

Well this is my second attempt to post today. If this shows up twice, please excuse.

I have had my D21 for some time, but little use so far. I hope to work it a little harder this spring.
So I followed someones advice here and cut up some boards for a not tall enough lift. But it helps. Will do oil change later, but followed owners manual for grease job.
Now for some questions. Grease job went pretty well excopt for two zerks.

One is on Angle-tilt frame center pin. Wouldn't take grease. Took zerk out. Grease would flow thru zerk alone. Put small screwdriver in hole. Grease was soft and clean. Put zerk back in. Took a pump or two, then no more. If this joint is full of grease is that what to expect?

Second zerk is more of a problem. It is on Angle-tilt frame support pin(left-side). Grease would flow out around zerk. Took zerk out to find it had been beat up and no longer round. Checked grease in hole with same screwdriver. Apparently this zerk has been a problem for some time. If you have ever used that black Roofing cement in a caulking tube that you get at Wal-Mart and let it set up about half way, that is about the color and consistency of the grease in the hole. I was hoping someone has a recipe for some magic soup that would soften that stuff up. Also can anyone tell me what size zerk I need to replace the bad one.

One last comment. Thanks to all you experienced "dirt dudes" that help us new guys out.

keito

04-07-2009, 06:04 AM

I also haven't had much time on mine do to the weather. As soon as it get's better I am going to change my fluids also. What kinda structure did you build to get under the machine. How high do I need to go?

Danny B

04-07-2009, 04:09 PM

I had 2 old boards that were here on the farm when I bought it. They must be 3in by 12 in. Something like that. They were long enough to cut into four pieces the length of the tracks. I stacked two on each side on a concrete slab. Worked for me. I'm not a very big person. So works for me. A fellow that has to get his pants at a big and tall store might be a little cramped.
I had another question I forgot to add last night. When I took the plates off under the dozer, I found two plates. A larger one had a shaft and two u-jounts with zerks on them. My owners manual didn't show them. Explaination?

Frank Dozer

04-07-2009, 04:41 PM

I want to add a 3 point hitch to my dozer. I have the 3 pth arms from a newer John Deere tractor. I was thinking I could fabricate a bracket to mount in place of the factory drift pin hitch, mount the arms on it so as to mimic factory 3 point hitch and then mount a winch up high on the ROPS. Use the winch with a lanyard for up and down so I can use my Landscape rake on my old logging roads to get a clean sweep. What do you guys think? Any better ideas?

CIty Lad

04-09-2009, 08:35 PM

ROPS canopy for it are sold here for around $1,200, could one just had added it after import?

I would be interested in your source for a ROPS at arouond $1200. Who could I contact?

GuglioLS

04-11-2009, 02:12 AM

Hi all, Larry here, this is my first post so I hope to get it right. I read every single post on every single page in this section for the Komatsu D20, 21 and similar. I learned allot and hope to share some of my experiences and dozer add-ons, modifications and maintenance for your entertainment and enjoyment. I saw a couple of references with links to other forums where I posted about my Komatsu D20 A-6, so I thought it might be good to join this forum to learn and contribute to the best of my ability.

I want to add a 3 point hitch to my dozer. I have the 3 pth arms from a newer John Deere tractor. I was thinking I could fabricate a bracket to mount in place of the factory drift pin hitch, mount the arms on it so as to mimic factory 3 point hitch and then mount a winch up high on the ROPS. Use the winch with a lanyard for up and down so I can use my Landscape rake on my old logging roads to get a clean sweep. What do you guys think? Any better ideas?

Hey Frank Dozer,
A TPH on your dozer sure would come in handy. I would like to do the same someday. I have a TPH backhoe hooked up to one of my tractors and am considering one day connecting it to my little Komatsu D20A-6. So when you work out all the details please post some pics so we can check it out. Your idea of using a winch to raise and lower it seems like it should work. You might also consider tapping into the hydraulic system, add a control valve (with a float position) to actuate a hydraulic cylinder so as to get down pressure. With that setup your rake will work great (using the float position on the valve), as well as someday being able to fabricate a ripper, that is if you would have a need for a ripper.

Tapping into the hydraulics and adding a valve is not that difficult. I did just that so I could use my dozer to pull a home made hydraulic dump trailer. It's use for hauling fill dirt up my logging road and to haul firewood on the way back down.

Once I reach the level where I am allowed to post some pic's I will be happy to share them so you can check it out.

Larry

GuglioLS

04-11-2009, 09:18 AM

When draining oil from the engine crank or from the main wet drive clutch. To get under the dozer, I drive it up on two rail road ties. Raise the blade, then align the RR ties in front of the tracks, push the RR ties up against the track shoes, then crawl up the RR ties. Doing that is safe and gives you plenty of room to get underneath for service.

When my dozer is not in use, I leave it parked up on top of the RR ties to keep the tracks from freezing or sinking into the ground. It also helps reduce rusting on the tack shoes and track rollers. :D

Larry

GuglioLS

04-11-2009, 09:38 AM

I've had my D20A-6 for just about two years now. when I first got it, I picked up a operation and maintenance manual from SSB tractor. I was surprised to see that a multi viscosity motor oil was specified for the main hydraulics reservoir.

Engine-----------------8 liters 15W40
Clutch case---------- 6 liters 10W
Transmission case 16.5 liters 30W
Hydraulic reservoir 33 liters 15W40 :confused:
Final drive (Steering clutches) Left & right 12 liters ea (24 total)10W

However, when I changed out the hydraulic fluid, I used UTF (Universal tractor Fluid) from Sam's club. I use that fluid for the hydraulics in all my tractors with no ill effects. Does anyone really know why Komatsu would specify a multi viscosity motor oil in a hydraulic system? Seems strange to me. The D20 has a standard positive displacement gear pump, nothing special about the valve, cylinders or hoses, so I do not see why not use real hydraulic fluid ,so I did and so far so good.

Larry

GuglioLS

04-11-2009, 05:05 PM

A few posts back I mentioned installing a hydraulic valve on my D20A-6. Here are a few pic's of that and the dump trailer:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y299/GuglioLS/Dozer/Dozer%20Hydraulics/DozerValve2.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y299/GuglioLS/Dozer/Dozer%20Hydraulics/DozerValve5.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y299/GuglioLS/Dozer/Dozer%20Hydraulics/DozerValve7.jpg

I usually post click-able thumbnail images, for some reason the normal HTML code does not work on this forum like it does on most other forums. Oh Well :beatsme

Larry

Danny B

04-11-2009, 06:26 PM

Some time back (looked but couldn't find) someone posted they had changed the EOM type batteries for standard size batteries. I need to do that also. I have one bad battery and one weak. I did a little research to find EOM batteries. One local parts store was willing to do the reasearch to find them. Would have to order. When I asked what the price would be, he asked if I was setting down, had oxygen close by and if the wife was home. When he said they were $158.00 each, it didn't take long to decide not to go that route. What I need to know now is what standard american batteries have some of you folks used? I other words what will fit, and provide the cranking amps needed required.

darinray

04-11-2009, 07:45 PM

darinray

04-11-2009, 07:47 PM

Danny I actually change the batteries to Napa 5051 and have yet after 8 years had any trouble with any of the machine starting in Winter. With 2 batteries and these little 40 hp motors they don't need huge CCA's per battery. Hope this helps.

Darin

GuglioLS

04-11-2009, 11:44 PM

Hello Larry,

I've enjoyed your posts that you've posted on other forums as well but want to clarify something...

You mentioned about 10W oil in the steering clutches?? Did you change yours over to wet type clutches?

Darin

Hi Darin,

Sorry My Bad...
My D20A has dry steering clutches. My previous post should be corrected to read:
Final drives (Left & Right) 12 liters ea (24 total)10W

It's my understanding that the final drive is what houses the Ring & Pinion gears to drive the rear sprockets. Is that correct? There are drain plugs at the bottom of the rear final drive housings, and a fill plug at the 9 O'Clock on the left and one at 3 O'Clock on the right. Is there a way to convert the D20 to wet steering clutches? Man that sure would be great if it could because that would solve one of the biggest nuisances with these dozer's. (Sticking steering clutches and breaks). I try to run my dozer around for an hour at least every two weeks to keep the clutches and breaks from rusting and sticking together, plus it keeps the battery charged. This seems work well, especialy during the winter months.

Larry

darinray

04-11-2009, 11:53 PM

Oh ok. I was just wanting to make sure you didn't. Actually my shop manual states that 10W for up to 50 F and from 32 F and up it should use 30W. Shoot in some of the manuals it has 15w-40 and think tha would be the better oil actually because you would be covering the cold startups with a 15w and then 40 when warmed up. :) Oh well I guess it's just a preference.

Actually I would think all you would have to do to covert to oil bath clutches is have the steering clutches relined with wet material and also the brake band lined with wet friction material as well. Dand sometimes I get these dozers in and the machine tried to convert itself by having a bad bevel gear seal leak or steering clutch oil leak filling the clutch cases. :) Of course then all the guts have to get replaced and fixed. :(

I wouldn't be surprised to read you changing yours to wet system with all the great work you've done already on your machine. Keep us posted and AM SURE people will learn from what you have done.

Darin

GuglioLS

04-12-2009, 01:45 AM

Hey Darin,

I see your in equipment and parts sales, I suppose you have seen a few of these D20's in for service over the years? Some day I will have to replace the steering clutches, so I will be sure to get your advice when the time comes. Best I can figure to do that is remove the back plate, batteries, seat, seat plate, then remove all the linkages, and hydraulic pipes. Then remove the steering case covers to gain access. Seems like it would be tight getting in there through the top to remove the clutches. But I suppose there really is no other way.

Larry

Frank Dozer

04-12-2009, 09:02 AM

Hi Larry, Your pictures explain a lot. Do you have any of where I tap in to the dozers lines and what valve do you use. Actually, I'd rather do the 3pth with hydraulics rather than a winch. It's stronger and uses up less space in the back. I'd probably still get a winch of about 10k to 12k in case I got stuck. Also, Could you send me close up pictures of your ROPS along with steel thicknesses and dimensions. I have a stock canopy on it now and before I venture in the woods, I'd like more protection from falling widow makers. You can Private message me if you'd like. Thanks, Frank

A few posts back I mentioned installing a hydraulic valve on my D20A-6. Here are a few pic's of that and the dump trailer:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y299/GuglioLS/Dozer/Dozer%20Hydraulics/DozerValve2.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y299/GuglioLS/Dozer/Dozer%20Hydraulics/DozerValve5.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y299/GuglioLS/Dozer/Dozer%20Hydraulics/DozerValve7.jpg

I usually post click-able thumbnail images, for some reason the normal HTML code does not work on this forum like it does on most other forums. Oh Well :beatsme

Larry

GuglioLS

04-12-2009, 07:27 PM

Frank,

Thanks for asking. I will try to help answer some of your questions. First the ROPS, The uprights are 3" X 1/4" wall hollow square tubing. I have one pic for now, and will get you some more as soon as I take some close up's, re-size and upload them. Give me a couple of days to do that.

Adding a valve like I did involves removing the floor plate, Seat, seat plate, rear plate between the hydraulic and fuel tanks. Then remove the soft line and hard line from the hydraulic pump all the way to the control valve. Install a Open center valve with ~ 20 GPM capacity and 3/4" in & out ports somewhere like mine Then get two new hoses made up, with Komatsu JIS 22 mm x 1.5 mm metric female 30* cone seat fittings on one end and 3/4" pipe thread on the other. One end connects to the hydraulic pump, the other to the IN of the new valve, from the OUT of the new valve to the IN of the OEM blade control valve. To get hose lengths use some old garden hose routed through the system to get the lengths just right.

Larry

Frank Dozer

04-14-2009, 08:51 AM

Larry, Thanks for the info. I look forward to more pictures. The valve you mentioned is at Nortrac.com which is Northern Tool. They have 2 open valves.
RD-2575-T4-EDX-1 and RD-2575-M4-EDA1. Do you recommend either valve?
Also, the installation of the lines and valve seems easier than I expected. Frank

GuglioLS

04-14-2009, 12:05 PM

Frank,

Those valves are motor control spool valves. Which means when the valve is in the center position, both work ports (A & B) are open (Connected to each other). If a motor control spool valve is used on cylinders, the cylinder will not lock or hold it's position when the valve returns to the center (neutral) position.

I would recommend a valve from Surplus Center item 9-6701-F, it will lock the cylinder in any position you set, plus the valve has a detented float position, which will allow your home made TPH setup to float much like that of a traditional TPH on a tractor. With that valve when you lift the TPH, the cylinder will lock and stay where you put it for transporting from one location to another, plus you can get down pressure, or set the valve to the float position so the TPH will raise and lower with the contours of the land. Open center means the in and out ports are open to each other (In the center or neutral position) allowing fluid to always flow from the pump back to the tank. An open center cylinder control valve will lock the cylinder in place when the valve is in the center or neutral position (Work ports A & B are blocked, in and out are open to each other) Float position = in and out open to each other and A & B work ports are open to each other, in the float position, fluid from the pump flows through the valve back to tank, and the A & B work (Cylinder) ports are open to each other allowing a cylinder to move back and forth (with some resistance to move the fluid through the cylinder and lines)

The valve below would be my choice for a home made TPH setup. In fact if I were going through all the trouble making a TPH setup for a dozer, I would have a hydraulic top link, and two hydraulic cylinders for the lift links (one for each side) also known as TNT (Top -N- Tilt). No doubt you have seen a TNT setup on a tractor.

CLICK HERE (https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009041409550634&catname=hydraulic&qty=1&item=9-6701-f)

Surplus Center Item # 9-6701-F

Larry

This is the TPH TNT setup on my tractor:

Frank Dozer

04-14-2009, 06:23 PM

Hello Larry, Just when I'm all set with what to do, You've thrown me a curve ball nad it sounds good. Well, let's do it right !!! You design the hydraulics and I'll design and fabricate the metal parts. Is there 1 valve that will do all you talked about? I have a metal fab shop so, fabrication is no sweat. This past weekend I purchased a new 6" KingKutter landscape rake and I'm ready to go.

GuglioLS

04-14-2009, 10:27 PM

Hello Larry, Just when I'm all set with what to do, You've thrown me a curve ball.......snip.

Sorry about that Frank, my bad. OK here is the suggested valve to control 3 cylinders. It's a SV (Sectional Valve) that you "build it yourself" sort of. Actually it's custom ordered with the features you want and you put it together. The complete part # would be 9SV-3-DDD Surplus Center SV valve CLICK HERE (https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009041409550634&item=9SV-3-X&catname=hydraulic) The valve is a 3 section valve, each section is a three position double action cylinder valve spring return to center with a detented 4th position for float. Of course the price goes up dramatically, from the original one spool valve.

So, you have a metal fab shop? Sweet, you should be able to knock out something like this no sweat. The ROPS you are asking about should be duck soup for you as well. I got some close up pics of my ROPS for you. Which dozer do you have?

Larry

Valve:

GuglioLS

04-14-2009, 10:43 PM

Here are the close up pic's of my ROPS mounting system FrankDozer was asking about, I think Frank wants to make his own ROPS in his metal fab shop. Is that right Frank? Here are four pics, I have two more to for the next reply as there is a 5 pic limit per post.

The plates are 5/8" thick that have been plasma cut, bent and or cut and welded to match the contours at the rear of the fuel and hydraulic tanks. Holes were drilled to line up with existing plate bolts.

Larry

GuglioLS

04-14-2009, 10:48 PM

Here are the balance of the ROPS and mounting system:
Larry

GuglioLS

04-15-2009, 12:17 AM

Frank,

That three spool valve is going to need some fittings.
Get two of these for the in & out: SAE 8M x 3/4 NPTF 90* SWIVEL (https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009041409550634&item=9-6901-8-12&catname=hydraulic)

Then for the work ports to the cylinders- are you going to use quick connects so you can remove the TPH assembly? or are you going to hard plumb it for a more permanent installation? Obviously the fittings will be different for which way you go. I suggest using 3/8" id hose max. There really is no need to have huge ID hose going to the cylinders as they will not be cycled very often, flow rate or heat build up is not going to be an issue so you might as well save costs by using the smallest ID hose and fittings possible. The valve takes SAE 8M fittings Here is a link to the SAE 8M fittings and adapters: CLICK HERE (https://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.asp?numrec=75&sort=1&keyword=HFON&catname=hydraulic&UID=2009041409550634)
These are the quick connects CLICK HERE (https://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.asp?UID=2009041409550634&catname=hydraulic&keyword=HFQC)

Larry

IdleUp

04-15-2009, 08:05 AM

I've decided to put new steering brake bands on my 1985 D21A - does anyone have a source for the parts?

Thanks

Danny B

04-15-2009, 01:13 PM

I have another question about batteries. It was my understanding the OEM batteries were 750CCA each. Is that correct? Would that make the total CCA 1500? I called my local NAPA and asked about the 5051 battery. I was told the CCA on it was only 450. Can I get more info? I think I found a battery at wal-mart that would fit. It is the best battery they sell. Three year full replacement. Nine year total warrenty. $75.00 each, cheaper that NAPA 5051 at $86.49 each. CCA is 900 each. Is there any drawback to using two batteries that are this much over what is needed?

jughead

04-15-2009, 02:59 PM

i think the amperage on 2 batteries stays the same if they are hooked in series it doubles the voltage only

darinray

04-15-2009, 08:27 PM

Yeah call DM Machinery LLC at 716-397-5963 cell.

I've decided to put new steering brake bands on my 1985 D21A - does anyone have a source for the parts?

Thanks

GuglioLS

04-15-2009, 09:16 PM

I've decided to put new steering brake bands on my 1985 D21A - does anyone have a source for the parts?
Thanks

IdleUp,
Do you have the part # ? Are you going to replace the entire break band assembly or just the linings? Darin has posted throughout this section that he has available all the break and clutch parts. I see he has done so again for your convenience. When you get your parts and start taking it apart, I sure would be interested in you posting pictures and a description of the process. I am willing the bet that many here would really like to see what it takes to do that. Please take the time to take and post a boat load of pictures.

Larry

GuglioLS

04-15-2009, 09:36 PM

i think the amperage on 2 batteries stays the same if they are hooked in series it doubles the voltage only

JugHead, You are 100% correct, batteries in series will produce the amperage available from the lowest rating of all the batteries in series. Voltage of each battery is added to solve for total volts.

Danny B -
Do not be concerned about having "too many CCA's" there is no such thing. If a billion CCA amps were available, the starter will only draw the amount of amps based on load and resistance of the starter motor windings.

Sounds like you found a reasonable priced battery from wally world, what brand / model # is it?

Larry

Danny B

04-16-2009, 09:47 AM

Larry
The battery I think will fit is the MAXX-35N (yellow). I haven't tried to fit it in yet. Was waiting on some info from you guys. The height and length are almost the same as the OEM batteries; 8 in and 9 in. The width may be my challenge. It is 6 1/2 in, where the old battery is 5 in. I think I can make it fit. Can anyone tell me how many CCA is minimum in case this doesn't work and I have to look at other less powerful batteries?

Danny B

04-16-2009, 09:51 AM

Also, thanks to jughead for the info on the amps. I should have remembered that from my basic electronic training at Kessler AFB. But, that was a few years back.

earl1957

04-18-2009, 04:21 PM

earl1957

04-18-2009, 04:54 PM

I'm in the hospital without nothing much else to do so I'll go ahead and post another question.I also have a p21d-6 dozer.We put new steering cluches in it not to many hours ago.It seemed to work pretty good for a while except one side was hard to stear,and by that I mean the stearing leaver was hard to pull.It would stear it just took a lot more pulling pressure to get it to act like the other side.Now comes my question hear lately when it gets in a bind one side quits pulling.We call ourself's having done a major ajustment on all the linkages,but did no good.We have'nt checked any of the pressurers but let me state right hear profectnels (see I cant even spell it) we are not.Mybe there is someone who knows something were over looking.If so please help us out and maybe we'll be able to return the favor sometime.
By the way this is a wonderful site.I've read every post in this FORUM.I'VE owned equipment of one kind or the other for over 20 years so I feel for sure somewhere down the road I'll be able to help someone.I'm thanking y'all in advance for any and all help I can get.

GuglioLS

04-18-2009, 07:53 PM

This is my first post maybe I'll get it close to right. I'm not even sure I'm asking the right question,but they say the only dumb question is the question that's never asked.I have ap310 Komatsu track loader that Ineed a starter (24v) for.
Earl1957

Hi Earl,
Welcome, do you happen to have a part #? if so try searching for it here:
http://www.andersonequip.com/product_support/parts/

I did a google search on an ap310 track loaded and came up empty handed, is ap310 the correct model?

My experience tells me a new starter will be way over priced, somewhere in the thousands of dollars :eek: :confused: Something that should normally cost 150 is marked up at least a 1000%. I highly recommend the started be removed and taken to a rebuild shop to have it repaired / re-wound.

Larry

earl1957

04-18-2009, 09:58 PM

I put in the wrong model# its ap31d track loader.

earl1957

04-18-2009, 10:03 PM

Sorry Idid it again my typing sux I'll try it one more time (p31d)kamoksu track loader.I think I got it right this time.

toolbox

04-19-2009, 11:42 AM

hey all , new here , nice site

like a few others im here for info , and probly steering clutches.
Darrin , can you explain my serial # problem ?

decals say d21 - , tag says d21a-6 - 71855
has d20 6 71855 stamped on l/s rear

machine has 2 speed power shift .

yes its grey mrkt from co in texas , but been good machine for 5 yrs
been sitting for 2 now , need to get right

thanks , keith

Frank Dozer

04-19-2009, 07:56 PM

Hello Larry,
I'm back in town again. Your pictures are fantastic !!! I'm going to get quotes on steel for the ROPS this coming week and I'll post pictures from start to finish. Thank you for the pictures!!! I almost forgot, my dozer is a 1985 Komatsu D21A-5 with a 6 way blade and only 1800 hours and I store it inside. This week I'm also going to start to design the 3 point hitch and I plan on using your recommended 3 hydraulic cylinders and 3 lever ......valve. It'll take me awhile so be patient. I specialize in curve balls, so any more you can think of, go for it.
Frank

Frank,

That three spool valve is going to need some fittings.
Get two of these for the in & out: SAE 8M x 3/4 NPTF 90* SWIVEL (https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009041409550634&item=9-6901-8-12&catname=hydraulic)

Then for the work ports to the cylinders- are you going to use quick connects so you can remove the TPH assembly? or are you going to hard plumb it for a more permanent installation? Obviously the fittings will be different for which way you go. I suggest using 3/8" id hose max. There really is no need to have huge ID hose going to the cylinders as they will not be cycled very often, flow rate or heat build up is not going to be an issue so you might as well save costs by using the smallest ID hose and fittings possible. The valve takes SAE 8M fittings Here is a link to the SAE 8M fittings and adapters: CLICK HERE (https://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.asp?numrec=75&sort=1&keyword=HFON&catname=hydraulic&UID=2009041409550634)
These are the quick connects CLICK HERE (https://www.surpluscenter.com/sort.asp?UID=2009041409550634&catname=hydraulic&keyword=HFQC)

Larry

darinray

04-19-2009, 09:44 PM

Hello Keith,

The stamp on the rear is always stamped D20 so just go by the tag. Hope this helps.

Darin

hey all , new here , nice site

like a few others im here for info , and probly steering clutches.
Darrin , can you explain my serial # problem ?

decals say d21 - , tag says d21a-6 - 71855
has d20 6 71855 stamped on l/s rear

machine has 2 speed power shift .

yes its grey mrkt from co in texas , but been good machine for 5 yrs
been sitting for 2 now , need to get right

thanks , keith

darinray

04-19-2009, 09:50 PM

Earl1957, Do the steering lever pull back the same distance? If one side of your machine stops pulling then you may have the linkages not correctly adjusted....clutches are in oil from a leaking seal....how was the outer drum when you put teh clutches in? Were the groves chewed up from teh clutch teeth?

Darin

Just read your past post.. We need to know for sure what model you have because the D31 depending on the years are wet clutches so my statement about the oil thing will beout the window. :) Let us know

keitho

04-19-2009, 10:06 PM

My experience tells me a new starter will be way over priced, somewhere in the thousands of dollars :eek: :confused: Something that should normally cost 150 is marked up at least a 1000%. I highly recommend the started be removed and taken to a rebuild shop to have it repaired / re-wound.

Larry

i hear that
the water pump went out on my d-20 a few years back and komatsu wanted $550 for a new one
a outfit in portland oregon rebuilt it for about $125
still spendy but a lot more reasonable

keith

earl1957

04-20-2009, 11:12 PM

I think I must have y'all confussed.The d31 is the one with the starter problem,it's the p21d-6 with the clutch problems.When I bought the dozer a couple of years ago it had problems on one side.It would'nt stear at all on the one side and had been like that for a long time the man said.Maybe as long as 2 or 3 years the man said.I know this to be true becouse the side that would'nt stear was a 100&10 per cent worn out and the other was 90 per cent new.When we got down into it the big berring that pushes the clutch fork had came a part,hence being the problem.The clutch plates on the bad side were worn completly out along with the sprocket,rails,and rollers.I rebuilt the entire bad side and bought one stack of new steering clutchs.I stacked them one from the good side with one new one and so on till I had both sides.That gave me one new clutch plate and one 90 per cent new staggered for each side.I replaced the bad berring,I did'nt check the tention on the springs in between the clutchs plates and I guess I should have but did'nt.The teeth on the clutch drums looked good.I relined the bands on the break drums.On this model the clutchs are dry.But sence you mention something about a sill leaking,I don't have one I checked,but after what you said I do have a control vowel above the bad side that leaks.I'm sure it run's down on that side and is getting on that steering drum.Could that couse the problem I've been talking about?I never thought about a little oil on the clutch drum and a dry clutch at that.Would that couse that one side not to pull when in a bind?If that is the problem would break cleaner spraied on it while it runs corect it?Someone please give me some input on how to go about fixing this.I'm thanking anyone in advance for their help.

darinray

04-21-2009, 07:43 AM

If the clutches are all oil then yes it will cause it not to pull but I was actually referring to the steering clutch release cylinder leaking or the bevel gear seal leaking. The oil from the control valve I suppose could get inside but...... If the clutches are oiled up the brake cleaner won't even be able to get to them unless you take them apart again. :( Check your oil levels on your machine to determine where the oil leak (if there is one) is coming from.

Darin

Danny B

04-22-2009, 09:22 PM

richied

04-22-2009, 09:40 PM

can i get a little help im new to this

richied

04-22-2009, 09:42 PM

i am looking at buying a kumatsu dozer . the man has been honest to me . he says at first the steering is not good , but in a little bit it starts working good.

richied

04-22-2009, 10:00 PM

I have a question for those who work on their own Komatsu dozer. Where do you get your parts? A Komatsu dealer? Are there any other options. I have a D20P7 and can't find anywhere to buy parts. Help

brandies equip. louisville ky or evansville ind.

richied

04-22-2009, 10:21 PM

im looking at buying a d20p and the man told me at first when u start moving the steering is not good but after a little bit it works fine . anyone have any replies or input.

shouldabeen

04-22-2009, 11:21 PM

what would a blade for the D-21 cost? its bent at the top between the arms. Any suggestions to get the pivot ball to take grease. yeap tried heat and new inserts still nothing.

keitho

04-22-2009, 11:38 PM

im looking at buying a d20p and the man told me at first when u start moving the steering is not good but after a little bit it works fine . anyone have any replies or input.

hey richied
i have a d20-p also circa 1990 or so that i got about 10 years ago
the steering seems to disengage the final drive on a side before it applies a brake on that same side and it appears to be done via a dry clutch pack that looks kinda like a automatic tranny clutch pack but run in a dry enviroment
i think if it sits awhile, the clutch pack kinda rusts? or seizes or some such as if i let my machine sit for 4-6 months or so then the steering is lame and appears to improve with use
not saying this is the absolute fact regarding steering but it appears that way to my lame a$$
btw: theres a fellow on this site that seems to know about the steering system and has parts for that,darin ray ? i think as i'm a new poster myself and can't 100% remember

keith

richied

04-23-2009, 12:03 AM

thanks were going to look at it tomorrow.this guy is just selling it for his in laws and he has one just like it and he said his does the same thing.

GuglioLS

04-23-2009, 12:44 AM

Hello Larry,
I'm back in town again. Your pictures are fantastic !!! I'm going to get quotes on steel for the ROPS this coming week and I'll post pictures from start to finish. Thank you for the pictures!!! I almost forgot, my dozer is a 1985 Komatsu D21A-5 with a 6 way blade and only 1800 hours and I store it inside. This week I'm also going to start to design the 3 point hitch and I plan on using your recommended 3 hydraulic cylinders and 3 lever ......valve. It'll take me awhile so be patient. I specialize in curve balls, so any more you can think of, go for it.
Frank

Hello Frank.

Glad to see you made it back safely. Fabricating a ROPS and TPH for your D21 from scratch are two very ambitious projects. I'm glad you found the pics of my ROPS to be of some help. No doubt it will take some time to put everything together. Nevertheless, I look forward to seeing pics of your progress. I can't help but wonder if it should be documented in a new separate thread so as to maintain some continuity and be more seamless to follow? What do you think? I see no reason why you cant start your own thread that is focused on a ROPS build, for that matter start two threads, one for the ROPS and one for the TPH as they are two distinctly unique and important projects that many may want to follow along, be able to look-up and refer to for all time. But hey, what do I know?

Larry

keitho

04-23-2009, 01:10 AM

I see no reason why you cant start your own thread that is focused on a ROPS build, for that matter start two threads, one for the ROPS and one for the TPH as they are two distinctly unique and important projects that many may want to follow along, be able to look-up and refer to for all time. But hey, what do I know?

Larry

while that may be true
it is nice to have most of the micro komatsu stuff in a thread of it's own so folks like me can find it
but then that is just my opinion

btw: loved reading your tph stuff
that little round plate on the back of a 20-21? is that a pto access?

keith

GuglioLS

04-23-2009, 01:14 AM

Hi Richied,

Keithio is spot on about the steering and drive clutches on these D20's. My D20 does the same thing, even after sitting for only a couple weeks. Sometime the steering breaks are locked up, and I have to pop the clutch at high RPM's to break it free. Other times, the clutch disks are frozen together and it will not dis-engage, so when I pull on the lever the breaks catch but the clutch does not dis-engage, it will not steer left or right and bogs down the engine when I pull back a level. To remedy that, I rev it up, pull back hard on both levers, put it in gear and pop the clutch. After everything is broken free, and driven around steering to the left and right for several minutes it operates like a new machine.

Now that you have more than 3 posts you can attach pictures uploaded from your computer. After your pic is uploaded post it right away, I think the pics disappear if you wait too long between uploading the pics and submitting your post.

Pay very close attention to the condition of the rear sprockets, front idlers, track links, track rollers, track shoes, front idler, and how much room there is left to keep the tracks tensioned. Also look for hydraulic and or oil leaks. Drive it around for at least a half hour, then bury the blade into the ground while traveling in first gear, see if both tracks keep turning at the same rate. If one or both tracks stop or slow down, the steering clutch(es) are most likely shot. Is the exhaust clear after it warms up? Will it go full throttle and run smooth after it warms up? Just a few things I can think of to check.

Larry

GuglioLS

04-23-2009, 01:48 AM

...........Snip................Snip.......
that little round plate on the back of a 20-21? is that a pto access?

keith

Hi Keith,
Sure would be nice, I'm afraid not though, I think it's access to a shaft and bearing for transmission assembly / disassembly.

Thanks for chiming in on the TPH & ROPS "to new thread, or not to new thread" So you like the idea keeping it all here? I understand that.

What's the P in you 20-P stand for? Is that power shift or something? How does that work?

Larry

keitho

04-23-2009, 02:06 AM

a d20 is a manual shift
a d21 is a powershift? aka automatic

the a afterwards means it has 11-13.5 grouser tracks for ag use
p means it has swamp tracks,aka pyramids for swamp/rice paddie daddy stuff
the - 5 -6 -7 -8 tells the years it was built in a series format

i have seen a few factory komatsu kitties that had pto winches
so?
i have to wonder about that access point on the back end
sure would be nice if it was what i think it is

keith

btw just ordered a new set of tracks from lou in alaska
seems to be a good guy
will totally rebuild my uc this year
rebuilt the engine last year
it was a few degrees out of plumb though
i put new sleeves in and the crankshft angle was about 3 degrees off plumb
had to shave the pistons to keep compression correct

anyway, its all good, glad to see you other guys posting, it gives me ideas on how to make this work the way i want it to

need to design a brush rake for it too
i'd use that a lot o clear the scotch broom

GuglioLS

04-23-2009, 02:18 AM

what would a blade for the D-21 cost? its bent at the top between the arms. Any suggestions to get the pivot ball to take grease. yeap tried heat and new inserts still nothing.

If you could get a new blade it would cost more than the dozer is worth. I suggest google searching for an equipment dealer who is parting one out. There are some listed on eBay. Or somehow repair it, if it's that bad.

The blade "Pivot Ball" is called the trunnion, like yours, mine was clogged too. What I did was remove the grease fitting, took a long drill bit and by hand dug out all the packed in dirt and dried grease. After that remove the two front bolts holding on the clamp, remove the clamp, on the front of the trunnion ball find another hole, then dig out all the crud with a drill bit or angled pic or stiff wire. Spray WD-40 or something down into the grease fitting hole at the top to aid in softening up the junk. It took me a couple of hours but I got it all cleaned out, and now it accepts grease. Good luck with it.

Larry

GuglioLS

04-23-2009, 10:07 AM

I finally got around to attempting the conversion of batteries to US standard size batteries. They fit like a glove. That means the fit is almost as tight as a well fitting glove. I will attempt to post pictures. Hope this comes in handy for someone who hasn't done this already.
Well, it looks like it won't let me post pictures.

Hi Danny,

Care to share what batteries you found that fit? Information such as make, model and where to get them might be helpful.

Thanks!

Larry

w5ssr

04-23-2009, 03:56 PM

w5ssr

04-23-2009, 05:43 PM

oops! meant to ask for WOT rpm? Sam

GuglioLS

04-23-2009, 06:48 PM

Hello, New member here with 1990 D20P-6, serial number 61255. Just got it today and have worked it for a couple of hours. All seems good with it but it doesn't seem to be throttling all the way up. What is the proper WOT setting? Thanks, Sam

Hi Sam welcome and a BIG congratulations to you on your new machine.

My Shop manual states:
Max no load RPM 2580 +/- 50
Min no load RPM 825 +/- 50

Max HP @ 2450
Max Torque @ 1400

Mine will only achieve WOT after it's warmed up. I suggest to check the air filter first, next make sure there is no water in the fuel tank, there is a drain for the tank, let a little out and see what you get. Next is to replace the fuel filter, after the filter is replaced, make sure to use the hand prime pump on the injector to get all the air out of the fuel lines. Short of that, may have to verify valve lash. could be burned valve, fouled or weak spring in one injector, defective or out of adjustment metering valve in fuel pump.

Larry

Frank Dozer

04-23-2009, 06:52 PM

Hi Larry, I would be pleased to post pictures of the ROPS and TPH Builds as things progressed. I'll let you know when I'm going to start. First I need to finish my present project. I'm in the middle of transforming a landscape trailer into an equipment trailer. I'm replacing the single lite duty original rear mesh ramp with duel 2x2x1/4 angle iron equipmeny ramps. They will adjust toward and away from the center line of the trailer to accomodate various width tractors. The trailer's only 7000# GVWR, so it won't take the Komatsu dozer weight. In the mean time, just to post a picture of delivery day last June 2008 of my Komatsu D21A-5.

Hello Frank.

Glad to see you made it back safely. Fabricating a ROPS and TPH for your D21 from scratch are two very ambitious projects. I'm glad you found the pics of my ROPS to be of some help. No doubt it will take some time to put everything together. Nevertheless, I look forward to seeing pics of your progress. I can't help but wonder if it should be documented in a new separate thread so as to maintain some continuity and be more seamless to follow? What do you think? I see no reason why you cant start your own thread that is focused on a ROPS build, for that matter start two threads, one for the ROPS and one for the TPH as they are two distinctly unique and important projects that many may want to follow along, be able to look-up and refer to for all time. But hey, what do I know?

Larry

w5ssr

04-23-2009, 07:36 PM

Thanks Larry, She's running smooth as silk no smoke, blips, etc. Just ran about another 1.5 hrs. I'll check it out tomorrow morning. Sam

GuglioLS

04-24-2009, 12:56 AM

Hi Frank,

Thats a sharp looking D21 you got there, the blade and tracks appear to be in excellent condition. I think the canopy top would be well suited to integrate into your ROPS. Do you think it possible to salvage that part? What I mean is if you made heavy duty support uprights for the ROPS, then somehow use the canopy to cover it. that may be an option? I dunno just thinking out loud. In any event it's impressive looking.

Below are a few pics of some ammo boxes I added to where the old canopy was attached. They come in real handy for small tools, matches, a pack of smokes or some chew, a few snacks, rags, gloves, sun glasses, etc... OK I put beer in there with some ice :drinkup I got some close matching rattle can paint at a NAPA paint store to make them look almost factory :D

w5ssr

04-24-2009, 02:38 PM

39658

39659 Seems to be in good shape, problem with throttle is in cable. It is only opening injector to @ 3/4 throttle position. Adjusted all the way in engine compartment, will check at console tomorrow morning.

Frank Dozer

04-24-2009, 02:57 PM

Hello Larry,
The canopy is like brand new but not quite. I really want to get the canopy off the dozer and fabricate a ROPS. For the top I plan on using 1/4" steel diamond plate ( I have plenty of 5x5 sheets ) . The reason is where I need go in the woods, which are old logging roads grown over, there are numerous branches ( Widow Makers ) in the trees probably 50 plus feet in the tops of trees. I have a Polish hard head but, not that hard. I'm also thinking of using 10 gauge, 2" opening expanded metal for doors, on the back side and on the sweeps out front. I'll be in the woods approx. 1 mile or so by myself so, I can't leave anything to chance. Besides other items, I will carry a first aid kit, a fire exstinguisher ( ? ), fluids, and a handgun for the bears at last resort.

Danny B

04-24-2009, 04:03 PM

The batteries I used I found at Wal-Mart. They are MAXX-34N. Okla price is $75.00 each with state issued farm tax exemption card. I found replacement terminals (corosion resistant marine) at O'Riellys. The battery fit is very close. A little bit of a challenge to hold the top clamp up with one hand and slide the last battery in with the other hand. Would have been easier if one of the sons was handy.
Big difference is the way the little machine fires up now. With two 900CCA batteries, it cranks up faster than you can say Komatsu.
Well, I tried again to post photos. It tells me I am not logged in or do not have privileges.
If someone can tell what I am doing wrong, I'll try again.

I also have ? re throttle. Mine was easy to move when first purchased. Now is pretty stiff. Where do I need to lube?

Thanks.

keitho

04-24-2009, 09:24 PM

Any of you fellows have any tips on removing the sprockets on a D20?

thx
keitho

toolbox

04-25-2009, 11:38 AM

best thing i have put inside in antifreeze !!
i used to work for redi mix concrete outfit , with all the water sprayed on the truck rust and freezing in winter was bad .

take a hose that will fit over 1 end of the cable where the 2 nuts are and fit the hose with a clamp. You may need to pull the boots up . Use an air blower (gently ) until you get A/F at the other end . I do all mine 2X year

keito

04-27-2009, 06:10 AM

Leo how did you do on your steering clutch task? Was it as hard as you thought? Any pointers to post. I am thinking about taking on the task myself. Thanks for any info and of course pics are always great.

bigc570

04-27-2009, 12:46 PM

HI all, New to forum. Alot of good information out here. Thanks
My question is a -5 tractor harder to get parts for than any of the rest.If i understand correctly -5 is pre 1985 model. Looking @ a 20p-5 new rops w/sweeps new paint . Tractor seems to run and operate ok. I don't know much about u/c and what to look for.Is 12k to many$$$$s. Thanks

toolbox

04-27-2009, 12:53 PM

[QUOTE=skywryder;138031]. I have the factory SM and IPM on Cd if someone needs something.

can you e-mail the parts book, if not too big?
i need to save $ for the parts

toolbox

04-27-2009, 01:11 PM

sweeps and some screen is next after steering is fixed.
also like the 3 point hitch idea, i need a small ripper

will post pics of dozer and rake when i can

Glen2

04-28-2009, 03:36 AM

I need to change the oil in my newly purchased D21-6. Can someone tell me where the oil filter is located and a part # would be a big help. Thanks, G

amunderdog

04-28-2009, 07:45 AM

I got lost in this thread.
The opening says All Grey market.
I inherited a Mitsubishi BD2F.
Anyone know what fluids it takes and where to put them?
Filter numbers would be helpfull also.
Thanks

keito

04-28-2009, 07:57 AM

The filter is located on the right side of your dozer mounted on the engine close to the dip stick. I think you may have to get a filter from the dealer but not quite sure. The drain plug is under the dozer behind the skid plate. I made it under mine with out lifting it off the ground I just ran it up on a couple of 2 x 12 and scooted under it.
I need to change the oil in my newly purchased D21-6. Can someone tell me where the oil filter is located and a part # would be a big help. Thanks, G

Glen2

04-28-2009, 11:04 AM

Thanks keito,
I check the oil every time I use it and haven't noticed a filter. It must not be shaped like an auto filter which is what I have been looking for. I will check that out more closely. Thanks again, G

keito

04-28-2009, 01:29 PM

You'll have to remove that side cover to expose it but it is just below your dipstick towards the drivers seat. I have a pic if you need it.

Glen2

04-28-2009, 01:49 PM

Thanks, G

Danny B

04-28-2009, 11:07 PM

Glen 2
Just changed my oil and filter. Got my filter from O'Reillys. Not very expensive. Wix brand. Don't have # handy right now. Filter is regular can shape just like on you car or truck. Screws in laying on its side. If you let the dozer set long enough, the filter drains out very well and comes off with no mess. Let us know if you have trouble finding filter. One of us will have the number. If it wasn't night time I'd run out to shed and get the number now.
Good luck.

Danny B

04-30-2009, 12:22 PM

Oil filter # for Wix is 51206.

Glen2

04-30-2009, 01:03 PM

Danny B

04-30-2009, 01:43 PM

Glen2
Releasing the pressure sounds like a good idea to me. One of the more experienced guys should be able to tell us more.

I looked around trying to get second key cut when I got my D21. Had to get one from dealer. Apparently they are all the same. I your case, it my be easier to get new switch from dealer, and change when/if you loose orig. key.

I logged back on with some ?'s of my own.
I noticed the left clutch not releasing after it had set a few days while doing some maint. (like oil change). I remembered someone advising to run forward and backward using brake to break loose clutch. This worked somewhat. Well during this manuver I noticed how much I could pull the left lever back compared to the right. I read my owners manual regarding play in levers. Right on is within tollerance, about 230mm. Left runs around 290mm. Tried to adjust. Couldn't turn either side in or out. I think Darin or someone discribed what I needed to do next.

Next question - To save time I probably need maintenance manual. After I got my D21, I found someone on internet that would sell maint. manual and some other manual in CD form. Is this a good idea? I think the price was in the area of $35.00

Frank Dozer

04-30-2009, 04:44 PM

Glen2, be careful when you try to remove and/or backoff the grease fitting. Besides pressure from the cylinder, you might snap off the fitting. On my Komatsu D21A-5 the fitting is so rusted, I'm afraid to put force to it to release the pressure, in fear of snapping it off. Anyone else have an experience with this?

GuglioLS

04-30-2009, 07:44 PM

Thanks Danny,
But we have a bigger problem now. We were running in some thick stuff and got a limb caught in the left track and knocked it off. We backed it out enough and by lifting the front with the blade were able to remove limb (log). We were going to just drive the track back on. Is this OK? It looked like it was putting a lot of pressure on the front yoke so we stopped. It was getting dark anyway. Can we just remove the grease fitting and release the adjusting grease, then roll the track on? We do not want to break something.
This is the first problem we have had other than a broken key. anybody know where to get a new key. Dealer key didnot work, Several keymaker both here and Baton Rouge connot help. No blanks. The key has JIDECO 742 stamper on it. Google said they were out of busness. You guys are great, hope you can help me. G

:eek:

Way to go Glen2,
Bummer to hear about the track popping off. If the check valve for the track tension mechanism is working correctly, removing the grease fitting wont release the pressure. Toward the rear of the track tension cylinder near the grease fitting there is a large nut, loosen that nut slowly and grease should start to come out a hole at the top of the back of the cylinder releasing track tension. That is you best bet to get the track lose enough to get it back on the idler. Use a large steel bar and a helper. As far as keys go, check eBay, I purchased several off eBay and they work on my D20.

Here is a pic that may help to locate the grease release nut:

Larry

darinray

04-30-2009, 10:55 PM

Big sledge hammer and hit the sprocket from inside to out about 3 good times and she will vibrate right off. :)

darin

Any of you fellows have any tips on removing the sprockets on a D20?

thx
keitho

darinray

04-30-2009, 11:03 PM

Just sent you a email with the doc attached for the specs.

Darin

I got lost in this thread.
The opening says All Grey market.
I inherited a Mitsubishi BD2F.
Anyone know what fluids it takes and where to put them?
Filter numbers would be helpfull also.
Thanks

Frank Dozer

05-01-2009, 06:43 AM

Hello Larry, How are you able to add text to your pictures?
Frank

GuglioLS

05-01-2009, 09:10 AM

Hello Larry, How are you able to add text to your pictures?
Frank

Hi Frank,

I use photo editing software called MGI Photosuite, it came with my Sony digital camera, most cameras come with some sort of photo software. MS Paint works too, I imagine there must be some free photo editing software packages that can be downloaded that work just as well. :)

Larry

Jeff Arnold

05-01-2009, 10:21 PM

i have a d20p 24 volt are these negtive ground or postive ground

keitho

05-01-2009, 10:22 PM

:eek:

Way to go Glen2,
Bummer to hear about the track popping off. If the check valve for the track tension mechanism is working correctly, removing the grease fitting wont release the pressure. Toward the rear of the track tension cylinder near the grease fitting there is a large nut, loosen that nut slowly and grease should start to come out a hole at the top of the back of the cylinder releasing track tension. That is you best bet to get the track lose enough to get it back on the idler. Use a large steel bar and a helper. As far as keys go, check eBay, I purchased several off eBay and they work on my D20.

Here is a pic that may help to locate the grease release nut:

Larry

Larry is spot on the money here
the nut is about 1 1/16 inch (actually something metric) and you only want to back it off 1 turn and no more
attach a come-along between the sprocket and the front idler using them nice round holes to get it to a released position then use a steel bar to slide the track where you need it
and then tighten the nut and pump grease in

keitho

keitho

05-01-2009, 10:24 PM

i have a d20p 24 volt are these negtive ground or postive ground

my d20p-6 is 24 volt negative ground

keitho

keitho

05-01-2009, 10:35 PM

Big sledge hammer and hit the sprocket from inside to out about 3 good times and she will vibrate right off. :)

darin

thanks darinray
i ended up cutting the outer sprockets off with the plasma and welded on a new set of outer sprocket rings
brand new track assembly so i figured the new sprockets were a must
the old tracks were so wore out that the bushings were gone totally on one side and the pins were wore in half while the front idler was about to fall off it's rail if it got tightened anymore
the new tracks are grouser type instead of them swamp pads and have no salt exposure so i'm hoping they may last a little better
anyway, changing that stuff out was so much fun that i may do it again next week for entertainment :)

keitho

Frank Dozer

05-02-2009, 09:38 AM

Have you ever snapped off the adjusting nut when backing it off? That's what I'm afraid of. If that happens then the whole track adjuster assembly has to be removed. That's a lot of work and in older dozers, most of the bolts won't come off that hold that assembly on. Keep in mind that my grease fitting is not removable or separate from the grease adjusting bolt. It's all 1 piece of cast iron. I'll take a picture of it and post it.
Frank

Larry is spot on the money here
the nut is about 1 1/16 inch (actually something metric) and you only want to back it off 1 turn and no more
attach a come-along between the sprocket and the front idler using them nice round holes to get it to a released position then use a steel bar to slide the track where you need it
and then tighten the nut and pump grease in

keitho

Frank Dozer

05-02-2009, 09:48 AM

Here's a picture of my adjusting bolt. Is it too fragile to back off? Opinions would be welcome.
Frank

keitho

05-02-2009, 02:08 PM

Here's a picture of my adjusting bolt. Is it too fragile to back off? Opinions would be welcome.
Frank

hey frank
your setup is different then the one i have which is the same as larry posted a pic of

a couple things to keep in mind are that the fitting is/has been screwed into a tube of grease it's whole life so it (should) not be too corroded on the inside

point #2 is that you'll need to have that operational at some point in time so you need to find out and if it's parked next to your shop with lots of free time versus out in the boondocks with a job to be finished asap? your choice :)

keitho

earl1957

05-02-2009, 09:44 PM

Does anyone have a good picture of the steering brake asemblely on a p21d-6 dozer

IdleUp

05-03-2009, 09:29 AM

Here's a picture of my adjusting bolt. Is it too fragile to back off? Opinions would be welcome.
Frank

Mine looked like that however most of that is surface and if anyone removed it in the past would have coated the threads with grease. Just make sure you don't put any side load on it and you should be fine.

GuglioLS

05-03-2009, 08:18 PM

Frank,

Great advice from Keitho and IdleUp,

Looks to me like it should come out of there no problem. Is that small glob of grease covering the relief hole? If so, it's already leaking. Do you have a parts manual? Even if you don't, it may be possible to get a new fitting by calling a Komatsu dealer, getting the part # and ordering from them or from one of the parts dealers, there are several sources.

A while back, I called my local Komatsu dealer in Albuquerque, NM, and opened an account. During that process, I registered my dozer model and serial #, it's a free service they offer. What they did was create an online account for me with access to a complete illustrated parts list for my machine. It was amazing to simply browse online and view every single assembly, part and part#. I saved all the images to my hard drive, printed them out and made myself a complete illustrated parts manual. Here is a small example:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y299/GuglioLS/Dozer/Parts1.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y299/GuglioLS/Dozer/Parts2.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y299/GuglioLS/Dozer/Parts3.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y299/GuglioLS/Dozer/Parts4.jpg

Those pics are just a small example, and they have been resized. The originals can be exploded for better detail, and there are part#'s for every single part, nut, bolt, washer, O-ring, seal, bearing, etc... you name, it's in there.

Larry

scokat

05-03-2009, 08:49 PM

Will the front idler compress back onto the spring at all? Drive up slow on a firewood round / log and it should slide back a bit on the recoil spring. It should be functioning separate to the track tensioner (grease part).

I wonder if you have a broken recoil spring and it's fouling inside on the housing. If that was the case, the track tensioner could be pushed out as far as it would go, yet not transferring the movement through the spring. Forcing it would only make matters worse if that was the case. Check the spring is working. :)

If you can't raise the blade and drag the wheel idler forward (inline or straight) with a car and a bit of chain, then it's too stuck IMHO. I only say this because there has to be a piston seal for the grease and you a going to stuff it, by dragging it over the "stuck area", be it rust or whatever. See my point?

I pulled the dozer out today and started to work on it, We put a porta power between the blade and the front of the track and commenced to pump. The yolk and piston finally started to move back in, but then we noticed the front of the spring started to compress, as the piston was not sliding into the cylander. I checked the left side...let grease out and pumped back up and the piston moved in and out independent of the spring. Any ideas on what the problem is and how to fix, also it looks like I need to drop a link, and info on how to accomplish this.

thanks
scott

Glen2

05-03-2009, 11:20 PM

Well thanks to everyone,
I got my track back on. After we opened the valve, I could not pry or force it back on. I just held the left brake on and backed the right side very slow and easied off the brake a little at a time. when it got stright I stopped and we closed the valve and pumped some greese in. Just a little, then a little more on the clutch, then more greese. when it got stright we adjuster the track and went back to work. Then the badly needed rain came. Now maybe I can get the oil changed while waiting for the dirt to dry out. G

keito

05-04-2009, 01:01 PM

Trailering Help Anyone! I am going to move my machine on my triple axle trailer I just purchased. I was wondering if anyone can tell me the best way to strap it down to the trailer. Chain, Nylon Straps etc. What's the best way you guy's have found to move the machines around town? & a good place to purchase this stuff. Thanks to all.

Frank Dozer

05-04-2009, 06:28 PM

Hi Larry, When I first purchesed my dozer, I thought the tracks were too loose. When I used the grease gun on the track adjuster grease fitting, they were clogged and would not accept grease. So, I heated them up with a torch and let them cool down. I did this several times. I then pushed in the teeny tiny ball in the end of the adjuster and a wee bit of grease came out. So I tried the grease gun again. I was so excited that tey were taking grease that I kept pumping like crazy. I then realized that my track was now way too tight. Well, having snapped off more nuts and bolts than I care to remember, I became very cautious and protective of my adjusters. I had a deep correct size socket for the adjuster, but I didn't have the gutts to muscle it open. Believe me, I put a substantial strain on it to just before where I thought it would snap. Looking at a diagram of the piston, I decided to drill a 1/8" hole thru the piston shell and see if it releived the pressure. It did and the track became QUITE SLACK. I then used a small bottle jack and expanded the track to the correct amount of track slack. I then found 2 collars the size of the piston rod and fastened them to the rod on the front wheel side of the yoke. All was good. Now, I plan to either weld the hole shut or use JB Weld to seal it. I'll try the JB first and if that doesn't hold, then I'll weld it. I still have to remove the grease track adjusters, then I'm off to make a mess of the place.

Frank,

Great advice from Keitho and IdleUp,

Looks to me like it should come out of there no problem. Is that small glob of grease covering the relief hole? If so, it's already leaking. Do you have a parts manual? Even if you don't, it may be possible to get a new fitting by calling a Komatsu dealer, getting the part # and ordering from them or from one of the parts dealers, there are several sources.

A while back, I called my local Komatsu dealer in Albuquerque, NM, and opened an account. During that process, I registered my dozer model and serial #, it's a free service they offer. What they did was create an online account for me with access to a complete illustrated parts list for my machine. It was amazing to simply browse online and view every single assembly, part and part#. I saved all the images to my hard drive, printed them out and made myself a complete illustrated parts manual. Here is a small example:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y299/GuglioLS/Dozer/Parts1.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y299/GuglioLS/Dozer/Parts2.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y299/GuglioLS/Dozer/Parts3.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y299/GuglioLS/Dozer/Parts4.jpg

Those pics are just a small example, and they have been resized. The originals can be exploded for better detail, and there are part#'s for every single part, nut, bolt, washer, O-ring, seal, bearing, etc... you name, it's in there.

Larry

ejb17

05-05-2009, 04:36 PM

keitho

05-06-2009, 01:45 AM

Noob here. No stranger to equipment in general but looking at buying from a member here either a D21A-7 or D20-5. Obviously the -7 is a lot newer and nicer to run but the -5 looks pretty good. All this in comparison to my 1957 JD 420C or shall I say no comparison. Just finish work and small jobs. What is the story on the Komatsu engines? Are they really Yanmars or are they Komatsu's own or depends on model. No big deal but the -7 has 3700 hours and wondered what the b-50 life is of that one? Thanks for the help and offer up anything else that might come to mind.

i have a d20p-6 now a d20a-6 as i just put grouser tracks on it vs swamp pads
i have used it as a ranch type machine vs a full duty pro type deal for about 10 years but it has cleared close to 50 acres now of northwet woodland/stump farm so it has seen use and relatively heavy use at that
the motor was rebuilt a year ago using komatsu parts from sleeves to pistons
they were komatsu < not yanmar
seems komatsu builds inhouse everything from grousers to bolts to engine assemblies
if you look at komatsu parts?
the circle-square-circle logo is cast into the parts as they build inhouse

regarding a -5 versus a -7 model?
thats a no brainer unless you're into restoring crap you cant use

if i were to buy another one tomorrow?
i'd get a cat
if the wife was involved?
i'd settle on a -7 0r -8

keitho

Danny B

05-11-2009, 10:32 AM

GuglioLS

05-11-2009, 11:24 AM

I need to adjust my left brake. I tried turning the adjustment with a socket ratchet. It didn't want to budge either way. How much leverage should I put on this thing? Is there anything under the seat or floor plate I need to look at before I use a bigger cheater bar? Thanks.

Hi Danny B,

Nothing under the seat or floor plate that will help. Try some WD-40 or PB blaster on the threads, Not too much so as to not let the break bands get solvent on them. Let it soak in for a couple of hours. If no joy, maybe heat the bolt with a torch? Not sure how much torque those bolts will take. But I bet it could withstand at least a 100 foot pounds.

Good luck Danny....

Larry

Danny B

05-11-2009, 07:56 PM

thanks Larry
I guess from what you said, the threads are reachable from the back thru the access cover. If time permits, I'll take a good look inside with a light tomorrow.

ejb17

05-14-2009, 08:05 AM

Just got a D21A-7E and have a ? about the flywheel housing. What is supposed to be in there fluid wise? I am going to replace the yoke on the output shaft and the seal but there is no drain plug? I was greasing the 2 u-joints and noticed the yoke was pretty sloppy. Took the little shaft out and the yoke is worn where the seal rides and worn on the splines. There is a little pipe plug I assume to check a level but any help would be great as I do not have the books yet.

hatim

05-14-2009, 09:09 AM

hi every body !
we are a trading company based in morocco , i have a probleme with our custmer some one want the dozer D6R other D6R xl , D6R LGP ..... could you please tell me the wath is the difference bitween D6R , D6R XL , D6R LGP, D6R SERIE III..... (family D6R)

Thanks

Danny B

05-14-2009, 08:31 PM

Hey Larry
Used a little PB on the adjustments and soon loosened up using a standard half inch drive breakover. I adj both sides to approx. 200mm play at the levers per the owners manual. Is that how you other folks make the adj?
Would like to ask again - Has anyone ordered the manuals on CD? Are they any good? If not, where did you get printed ones?
Thanks.

GuglioLS

05-15-2009, 01:17 AM

Great news Danny,

Good to hear the PB blaster and a little elbow grease did the trick for you. It's a real benefit when members like you follow through with their posts and report their results. Sharing that information helps us learn and keeps us in the know. You asked others about their break band tension adjustment procedure..... My D20A-6 owners manual states to tighten the adjuster bolts to 4 KgM (Kilo Gram Meters) or about 29 foot pounds, then back it out 4 turns CCW. Thats where I started, however my experience has been for best adjustment is to warm up the dozer, driving it around using the breaks to turn etc to heat them up, then adjust both break bands so as to get equal pull back distance on both levers at operating temperature.

Where do you buy a manual on CD? I'd be interested in a real service manual. I have an owners / operators manual and a "shop" manual. The shop manual is geared more toward wear limits and specifications than it is for actual procedures to remove and replace components. The two manuals I got are reprints from SSB tractor.

http://www.ssbtractor.com/komatsu_tractor_manuals.html

Larry

Danny B

05-15-2009, 03:25 PM

I made my adj cold. It has been raining here so much, there is not a dry place to test it after the adj.
Re: the manual on cd, I think I found it offered from a fellow on EBay. That was several months ago. Shortly after I traded for my D21. I'll try to locate it again. If I can, I'll post info.
Also, thanks on conversion of kilo's to ft lbs.

shouldabeen

05-17-2009, 04:10 AM

40823
It has had all fluids changed,All filters changed,everything works as it should. The undercarrage has 160hrs on it as do all fluid changes. The trailer is a 18' triaxle with new brakes,brakes on all three axles,good tires,electric brakeaway,bumper pull,all bearings new, and my f-250 pulls it just fine. tuff times slow work need to sell.

jjoslin

05-22-2009, 01:30 PM

I think I have read mosts of the posts regarding steering problems. I have a Komatsu D20P-7 and will be trying some of the suggestions I've seen on the forum. Lots of information!

My problem is that the right steering does not work in either direction. I've tightened the right adjusment bolt (in back) all the way down and backed off about 1.5 turns. Before starting the trial and hopefully not error approach I need to know if the right steering lever should be engaging when I press the main brake? IE, when I press the brake the right steering lever comes out almost all of the way. This happens whether the machine is running or not.

jjoslin

05-22-2009, 02:13 PM

Like I say, trial and error. I just removed the adjustment nut from the right steering to check for rust in the threads. I thought maybe rust or whatever might have kept the nut from going down far enough on the adjustment bolt. I cleaned up the threads and was going to re-install. However, the bolt that the nut was attached to has dropped to a point to where the nut cannot be installed. What do I do now? I don't have a shop manual and have no idea what the guts of this thing looks like.

darinray

05-22-2009, 08:09 PM

Oh man that is going to make you work now. :) It is a pain but put a good magnet on the end of the bolt that the nut goes on and pull it through the hole far enough so you can use somethign to grab and hold the bolt out while you try to start the nut. You will have to try this a couple times and you will :Banghead thinking it can't be done but that is how I do it. I actually use a piece of bent steel from clothes hanger that is sharpened flat like a screw driver to lodge in a thread. It has to be small enough so you can put the nut in the hole. :( Maybe someone here has a better way but that has always worked for me.

Darin

Oh your brakes and steering linkage are not adjusted because the brake shouldn't engage the steering lever at all. Might have to put some penetrating fluid behind the dash on the long shaft that regulates all the linkage pedals and pull levers.

IdleUp

05-22-2009, 09:16 PM

ejb17

05-23-2009, 10:02 PM

I just got this D21 a few weeeks ago and am happy so far. Got all the books and got it serviced and will be checking all the adjustments over the holiday weekend. My question that no one seems to have the answer to is what the "E" stands for at the end of the model #. It is D21A-7E on the tag. Any thoughts are welcome. Remember Memorial Day :usa

keito

05-26-2009, 10:29 PM

I thought I would post a few pics of my right brake housing and linkage. I have a steering problem with my right track and the whole linkage assembly was rusted and frozen.

jjoslin

05-27-2009, 03:31 PM

Darin,

What type of magnet are you talking about? IE, what size, where do I buy, etc?

keito

05-27-2009, 07:11 PM

Does anyone have a good place to buy brake parts for a D21A. Komatsu seems to be high. thanks
Keito

darinray

05-27-2009, 08:51 PM

Any parts store and as strong as they have with the diameter less than the bolt hole. It's just a magnet on a extension stick.

Darin,

What type of magnet are you talking about? IE, what size, where do I buy, etc?

oldhousehugger

05-27-2009, 11:33 PM

Couple of things I noticed on my D20:
First was I was getting condensation build up in the brake chambers which of course screwed up the brakes. Solution; pull out the bottom cork they put in the rear weldment plate on the back of the transaxel allowing the water to drain out. Unless you plan on driving in over 2 feet of water you don't need the corks anyhow. By the way there isn't supposed to be any kind of wetness in the brake drum chambers be it oily or watery.

A nuther problem I had was that the brake linkage for the foot brake and parking brake were almost completely rusted solid when I got it so out came the oil can and a lot of cursing later the parking brake now works as do the rest of the controls. Best investment in time you can make is take all the floor boards off, seat and the hood and get in there and make sure evrything is moving the way it was designed to. I had a similar problem on an old massey Ferguson 1100 tractor I had where they designed the clutch pivot shaft thru the transmission casting with no lubrication points and after 30 or so years it is either worn into an oval or it may be rusted solid. I drilled a hole in the casting and threaded in a zerk to grease it. Sometimes it just makes sense to put a grease fitting in where some design engineer decided not to put one. You be the judge.

oldhousehugger

05-27-2009, 11:54 PM

A note on tracks coming off. On my wide track D20PL-6A I have luck (if you can call it that ) raising th efront end with the blade and then unbolting the track guides just behind the idler wheel at the front of the track frames. This allows the chain to slide over onto the ridge of the idler wheel as you back it on. One word of caution. Remember that the links on the ground are staying put so you need to rotate the machine if possible in the direction which will position the idler so it will pick up the groove in the chain. This can be real tricky so go real easy. But it feels so good when the dang thing pops back in place.
Also the track never comes off where it is easy to work on. Murphies law #9
Murphies law #10 Bulldozer won't move from bad spot if track is off so get ready to get dirty.

GuglioLS

05-28-2009, 10:13 AM

Keito,

Those are excellent pictures you posted thanks for taking the time to do that. I really have wanted to know what it looked like in there and appreciate you doing that. What did you have to remove to get the the break bands? Did you have to remove the hydraulic tank as well as all the linkages and the clutch valve? It's important for me to know as one day I will have to do the same as you and need to know what needs removing. If at all possible could you take and post some more pictures, perhaps a little farther back to get an overall big picture of what was removed? Do you think the fuel tank would have to be removed to get to the left side?

Darinray has often stated he has all the break parts for these dozer's, I would contact him to get my parts.

Thanks again for posting those pictures and look forward to any more information you can provide.

Larry

keito

05-28-2009, 07:20 PM

I will get some more pics this week and I am getting my parts from Dan. As the machine goes back together I will try to get as many pics as I can. The Komatsu dealer was defintely much higher. I am working with some good guy's and I will try to get as much info as I can for you
Keito,

Those are excellent pictures you posted thanks for taking the time to do that. I really have wanted to know what it looked like in there and appreciate you doing that. What did you have to remove to get the the break bands? Did you have to remove the hydraulic tank as well as all the linkages and the clutch valve? It's important for me to know as one day I will have to do the same as you and need to know what needs removing. If at all possible could you take and post some more pictures, perhaps a little farther back to get an overall big picture of what was removed? Do you think the fuel tank would have to be removed to get to the left side?

Darinray has often stated he has all the break parts for these dozer's, I would contact him to get my parts.

Thanks again for posting those pictures and look forward to any more information you can provide.

Larry

kbeamish

06-02-2009, 12:48 AM

So I have had my d21a-5 for about a year now and put on about 200 hours. Mostly winter snowploughing but this spring I decided to build some road adjacent to a creek on my property. Got too close to the edge and it crumbled and I slid sideways into the creek. Bottom line is that I got stuck real good in some deep sand. Water running across the floorboards and all. Took me 2 days of packing rocks and timbers to get myself extricated.Wish I had had the foresight to take some pictures, cause I hope not to ever replicate that predicament. When I rattled back up the hill to change out all fluids I first had to remove about a truck load of muddy sand from around the rollers , under the belly pans, and even packed in under the seat. 4 hours with a pressure washer later I began the process of dumping oil. The engine oil was slighty milky, the transmission very milky, but the final drives appeared not to have seen any water at all. At any rate all those fluids are changed, but I have a few questions that I thought I would pose to the wise participants of this site.
1) Why is there a clutch pedal with a powershift? I have seen it refferred to as an inching pedal?
2) What is the purpose/name of the component of the drive train between the transmission and final drives. From underneath it has 3 drain plugs (unfortunately 2 of mine were missing and when I put my finger in the hole it is full of sand).
3) What is the back hatch for on the rear. I unbolted mine to have a look but someone has tacked it on with a welder.
4) Where do I find a hydraulic filter?
5) How do I adjust stearing clutches (how much of the gear under the seat needs to come away to do it?).
5) Does anyone else miss having a decelerator pedal?
6) How come no float option on the blade.

I am afraid that I enjoy skinnin much more than wrenchin but accept the need for the latter to be able to maximize the former. Unfortunately as this post undoubtedly illustrates, need lots of practice with both. I broke down and ordered a service manual today ($$$) from the local Komatsu dealer so that I can be at least more informed, but this site has been a wealth of information and I know that there are some experienced folks out there. Appreciate any info that could be provided.

Thanks
Kevin

darinray

06-02-2009, 05:47 AM

Comments are in your text below. :) Hope it helps.

Darin

So I have had my d21a-5 for about a year now and put on about 200 hours. Mostly winter snowploughing but this spring I decided to build some road adjacent to a creek on my property. Got too close to the edge and it crumbled and I slid sideways into the creek. Bottom line is that I got stuck real good in some deep sand. Water running across the floorboards and all. Took me 2 days of packing rocks and timbers to get myself extricated.Wish I had had the foresight to take some pictures, cause I hope not to ever replicate that predicament. When I rattled back up the hill to change out all fluids I first had to remove about a truck load of muddy sand from around the rollers , under the belly pans, and even packed in under the seat. 4 hours with a pressure washer later I began the process of dumping oil. The engine oil was slighty milky, the transmission very milky, but the final drives appeared not to have seen any water at all. At any rate all those fluids are changed, but I have a few questions that I thought I would pose to the wise participants of this site.
1) Why is there a clutch pedal with a powershift? I have seen it refferred to as an inching pedal? So you can feather taking off instead of full speed I guess and or so when you want to stop you don't have to push it into neutral.
2) What is the purpose/name of the component of the drive train between the transmission and final drives. From underneath it has 3 drain plugs (unfortunately 2 of mine were missing and when I put my finger in the hole it is full of sand). This is the bevel gear and where the power is diverted to the steering clutches. the 2 outside plugs are for each side steering clutch department and the center one is to drain your bevel gear.
3) What is the back hatch for on the rear. I unbolted mine to have a look but someone has tacked it on with a welder. there is provisions for running a pto shaft out from the back of the tranny
4) Where do I find a hydraulic filter? Komatsu is where I buy mine
5) How do I adjust stearing clutches (how much of the gear under the seat needs to come away to do it?). No adjusting the steering clutches themselves as they are always engage under spring tension.
5) Does anyone else miss having a decelerator pedal? Some I'm sure do
6) How come no float option on the blade. There should be unless the detent balls have been taken out or worn out. :(

I am afraid that I enjoy skinnin much more than wrenchin but accept the need for the latter to be able to maximize the former. Unfortunately as this post undoubtedly illustrates, need lots of practice with both. I broke down and ordered a service manual today ($$$) from the local Komatsu dealer so that I can be at least more informed, but this site has been a wealth of information and I know that there are some experienced folks out there. Appreciate any info that could be provided.

Thanks
Kevin

jjoslin

06-02-2009, 08:28 AM

Any parts store and as strong as they have with the diameter less than the bolt hole. It's just a magnet on a extension stick.

Darin,

I bought a 1.5 lb magnet. This did not even phase the bolt. What was the pick up poundage on the magnet that you used?

darinray

06-02-2009, 08:30 AM

Oh dang. I have no idea it is the biggest one I could find that would fit inside the hole. Keep in mind that the magnet I used didn't hold it with a lot of strain but just enough to pull through the hole and hold with something else while starting the nut. Hope this helps.

Darin

jwebb

06-02-2009, 12:16 PM

I am new to the forum. I have a D21A, SN62976, and am having trouble determining what type of manual I need for troubleshooting some of my problems. I have read many of the posts here and some people call them shop manuals (which is what I think I need) but then when you go to the SSB website and others, they are listed as parts manual, operators manual, service manual, etc. I probably need at least a couple of these but they are a little pricey and I only want to order what I need. So if someone can point me in the right direction it would be much appreciated.

Questions:
1. Sometime the steering levers are unresponsive and my left track does not pull as well as the right track. It seems different when I am on a slope. Is this an adjustment issue or steering clutch wear? 2. I no longer have second gear in forward or reverse. How do I adjust for this?

Thanks for your help...

darinray

06-02-2009, 01:04 PM

What you need is either the service or shop manual but NOT both... They are the same but just worded differently from the suppliers. :)

YIKES! Yeah it's basically steering clutch wear or the steering cylinder under the seat is partially disengaging the clutches by either not adjusted right or something caught in between it. Make sure it's clean under the seat area and check to see that the cylinders are all the way out of the steering valve.

Frank Dozer

06-02-2009, 06:32 PM

Well, after spraying the track adjusters / grease fitting for the past month with PB Blaster, I finally got the guts to try to back off the fitting. Guess what? The top half snapped off the bottom half. The bottom half remains stuck and rusted in the hole. So, I sprayed the bottom half and now begin my search for how to remove it. The dozer is now in my garage where I can work on it at my leisure. Should I use an Easy Out with heat Or What? I'll post a picture this week.

QUOTE=keitho;157115]hey frank
your setup is different then the one i have which is the same as larry posted a pic of

a couple things to keep in mind are that the fitting is/has been screwed into a tube of grease it's whole life so it (should) not be too corroded on the inside

point #2 is that you'll need to have that operational at some point in time so you need to find out and if it's parked next to your shop with lots of free time versus out in the boondocks with a job to be finished asap? your choice :)

keitho[/QUOTE]

kbeamish

06-02-2009, 11:40 PM

thanks darinray!
I drained the bevel gear case and replaced oil today. Not sure what to do with the steering clutch cases. These run dry right? Maybe someone left the plugs out for a reason. Any thoughts on how to flush the sand out of there? A pressure washer wand sounds inherently wrong.
Found an engine oil leak today between the filter assembly and the block. Tightened but no luck. Wil likley remove, fashion a gasket and replace over the next couple of days.
Thanks again for your insight. I scoped your website. Wish I were close enough to physically browse your inventory.
k

Macka

06-03-2009, 03:36 AM

Hello all, new member here from down under!

Gidday all.
I don't pretend to be an expert on dozers but am willing to learn from you all. Just purchased Komatsu D21P for my property with 6 way tilt blade. Obviously I would like to be able to service and maintain it as far as possible myself. I was hoping somebody could tell me when it was built and some basic specs on the machine and more importantly, what I should look out for and do.
The dealer I purchased it through knew very little unfortunately.
The serial number is on the outside on the left side, just below the drivers seat. The number reads 66328. Does that give any clues? Where can I obtain owners manuals etc? Ay help would be greatly appreciated.
Macka.

jwebb

06-04-2009, 10:20 AM

darinray,
Thanks for the info on the manuals and steering clutch problem. I haven't had time yet to get back to my dozer, but I did order an operators manual this morning; I also need to know fluids etc. and it said it gave steering clutch adjustments too.

I ordered from the repairmanual.com website. They also have a service manual that will be my next purchase. They seemed pretty reasonable.
Appreciate the help.
Johnny Webb

jjoslin

06-04-2009, 10:43 AM

I had never heard of PB Blaster until I saw it on this forum. Anyway, I just got back from picking up a rain check item at Tractor Supply and PB Blaster is their product of the week. So I bought a can that will hopefully do miracles on my D20P.

SgTackett

06-09-2009, 11:06 AM

Im looking for someone who knows about a very old komatsu d85e-12. I believe its a '68 ****. Anyways, it has 2 fuel tanks, the main one behind the seat, and a smaller one with the only feed being the main fuel tank. What's the purpose of this smaller tank? A reserve or something? We keep having problems with the engine running out of fuel despite having at least 1/4 of a tank.

Macka

06-13-2009, 08:52 PM

Which owners/repair manuals to purchase Komatsu D21P-6

Hi all. Just took delivery of my Komatsu D21P-6. I would like to know, which publisher makes the best owners/repair manuals etc for this dozer. There seems to be a few on the market, but I have no idea whch are the best and most comprehensive etc.
Which ones should I be looking to purchase to meet these requirements?

Thaks Macka

Macka

06-17-2009, 06:34 PM

Here it is. Got delivered last week. 1800 hours, works like a charm, with the exception of splitting a hydraulic hose on the first day. Excellent on my steep terain.:)

keito

06-23-2009, 07:31 AM

Here are the pics from my right brake repair. these are the old parts. I thought I would post them for info only. If you need more details e-mail me. I bought the parts from one of our fellow members. I used my machine this ast weekend on my farm and all seems well. The brake job is not cheap. If you can do it yourself you'll save plenty.I will next time. I bet I could get through the next one with all of your help. Thanks to all. Pics attached.
I will get some more pics this week and I am getting my parts from Dan. As the machine goes back together I will try to get as many pics as I can. The Komatsu dealer was defintely much higher. I am working with some good guy's and I will try to get as much info as I can for you

jjoslin

06-26-2009, 04:26 PM

Oh your brakes and steering linkage are not adjusted because the brake shouldn't engage the steering lever at all. Might have to put some penetrating fluid behind the dash on the long shaft that regulates all the linkage pedals and pull levers.

I bought a 16 pound magnet and got the steering adjustment bolt back on. Thanks for the info! Regarding the quote above, do you have to disassemble the pivot rod to lubricate? Or, can you spray the PB blaster in the crack between the steering linkage and the brake pedal linkage that rotate on the rod?

Thanks for your help.

John

darinray

06-26-2009, 05:42 PM

I bought a 16 pound magnet and got the steering adjustment bolt back on. Thanks for the info! Regarding the quote above, do you have to disassemble the pivot rod to lubricate? Or, can you spray the PB blaster in the crack between the steering linkage and the brake pedal linkage that rotate on the rod?

Thanks for your help.

John

Good job. It is a pain in the butt sometimes for sure. :) The best way is to disassemble but sometimes you get lucky with just spraying it. Goodluck.

Darin

jjoslin

06-26-2009, 06:00 PM

I removed the floor plate and the plate in front of the seat to watch the linkage work. The steering lever on the left, which works, comes out about 8 inches and engages the arm that is going into the brake system. The movement on the arm/pivot is 3/8 to 1/2 inch. The steering on the right comes out all of the way and moves the arm (into the brake housing) 2 + inches. It's almost as if the "arm" on the right is not meeting any resistance. When the foot brake is pressed the linkage on the right engages the steering lever because of the 2 + inch movement. If the arm on the right moved the same distance as the arm on the left the steering lever would never be engaged. Is it time for a professional?

darinray

06-26-2009, 06:07 PM

nbasch

06-29-2009, 06:30 PM

I haven't used my dozer in a few months (I know...I know) now the left track clutch is sticking...Any suggestions, can I break it free or do I have to pull the sprocket and cover? Also, I have a D45 Komatsu, great dozer so far but anyone know the pros and cons, apparently they are not too common here in the states, any advice is appreciated
thanks

jjoslin

06-30-2009, 11:46 AM

It just sounds like your brake adjustment is not even close. If you tighten up the right side brake adjusting nut to where it doesn't have to pull out all the way to lock the track i think you will be fine. look and compare all the linkage lengths from theleft side to the right and make the right the same if they are different.

I tightened the adjusting nut all it would go. No change in the steering lever. Then I removed the nut again thinking that it was being blocked from going all the way down on the bolt. Using the magnet, I pulled the bolt back out and grabbed with my fingers. I pulled on the bolt and the spring assembly or whatever is inside the housing seemed to work. I replaced the nut and tightened as tight as possible to where there was no springing type slack left. Still no change.

I look at all of the pipes, linkage, etc. and think maybe fixing this myself might be a bit over my head even with a repair manual (which I don't have).

Again, I will mention that the pivot that does the work on the inside of the unit does not appear to be engaging anything. The steering lever will pull all of the way back even to the poing of pulling the little plunger deal out a bit from the round cylinder next to the housing. It's almost like something is broke inside the housing. This is a fairly clean dozer and I'm a bit surprised that I'm having this problem.

darinray

06-30-2009, 12:55 PM

Well you are getting close. Actually it appears that the brake band doesn not have the finger in the other side of the bolt bracket so there is no way for the brake to tighten. you have to make sure that the fat finger closest to the adjusting nut cover is in the brake band holder. Can't remember if you mentioned YOU had this apart already once or not but the top housing has to come off to see this and fix it. :( It's a pain because when you mentioned that you grabbed the bolt with your fingers after pulling it through the hole this was WAYYYYYY to easy. Normally when everything is set in it's proper place you have to basically fight with starting that nut. :( Keep us posted.

Darin

jjoslin

06-30-2009, 02:10 PM

OK, so it looks like I will need a repair manual. Where can I find a repair manual? I need to make sure it is a repair manual and not just exploded photos of all the components.

By the way, can the brake housing be removed without having to remove all of the "pipes"? I don't have the dozer "open" for viewing because we finally got some rain this morning.

keito

07-02-2009, 03:54 PM

If you look at the pics I posted #625 and the others you'll see that I went through the same issue.
OK, so it looks like I will need a repair manual. Where can I find a repair manual? I need to make sure it is a repair manual and not just exploded photos of all the components.

By the way, can the brake housing be removed without having to remove all of the "pipes"? I don't have the dozer "open" for viewing because we finally got some rain this morning.

jjoslin

07-02-2009, 04:57 PM

I looked at the photo. I know you have to remove the seat but do you have to remove all of the hydraulic(?) lines above the brake housing to remove the cover? Also, did you get a service manual and if so, where? Did you do this yourself or did you hire it done?

Thanks for your help.

gps blades

07-02-2009, 08:47 PM

Hello everyone, I have just joined so still learning the ins and outs of the site. I have a komatsu d21-7. I originally used it as a development tool for designing gsp systems and mining blades for cat d11s. it is a great little dozer. I find it one of the few dozers that has the right power to weight ratio which makes it quick and perform well.

keito

07-02-2009, 09:47 PM

Well I think that if you remove the lines it would make access a whole lot easier. I didn't do the job myself but I observed how they did it. they did remove the seat and all the hydraulic lines. It is quite expensive to have someone do it and the parts aren't cheap.
I looked at the photo. I know you have to remove the seat but do you have to remove all of the hydraulic(?) lines above the brake housing to remove the cover? Also, did you get a service manual and if so, where? Did you do this yourself or did you hire it done?

Thanks for your help.

gps blades

07-02-2009, 09:58 PM

Has anyone seen after market rippers for the d21’s. I built my own but unsure if komatsu make a set or some other company’s do so.

kentuckyboy

07-13-2009, 05:20 PM

New to the forum, lots of great information and knowledgeable people. Have a question, I have a D21-5, is the fan reversable? It is currently blowing air out through the radiator. Temp is running about 210, 215.

oldhousehugger

07-14-2009, 12:21 AM

Here is the link to the wix website.

http://www.wixfilters.com/filterlookup/index2.asp?Section=4&Make=384&SubMake=669&Model=35692&SubModel=&Engine=&Year=&TempSection=4&TempMake=384&TempSubMake=669&TempModel=35692&TempEngine=

John

oldhousehugger

07-14-2009, 12:34 AM

Blades ,
I would like to see a picture and get a discription of how you built rippers for your D21. My D20 has a dozen or so threaded holes in the back of the transmission plate, and I've been tempted to start welding. How did you rig up your hydraulic supply etc.?

STATELINE

07-15-2009, 04:45 PM

hello all, new guy here. Read a lot of good info here. I just bought a D21A-7 seems like a nice little machine. first problem I want to tackle, it has a fuel & temp gauge, & hr. meter, & none of them work. Both the gauges go full right shrtly after starting, & hr. meter just doesn't move. is this a typical problem? any ideas where to start? thanks for any help.

MrKomatsu

07-15-2009, 06:02 PM

Komatsu uses ground to complete the circuits....most likely u have a bad connection...ck ur grounds

STATELINE

07-15-2009, 08:44 PM

thanks Mr. K I'll be looking at them in the next couple days

STATELINE

07-19-2009, 12:24 PM

got my gauges working, thanks again Mr. K it was either the ground or the paint in the connectors, they had the dash off & connrctors unplugged & not masked off when machine was repainted, cleaned them up & tighten the grounds now all is good!!:drinkup:):)

Danny B

07-19-2009, 10:04 PM

kentuckyboy
It is my assumption they are supposed to push air forward. Since they are such a slow moving vehicle, you would not want the hot air blowing back on the operator. I'm guessing this would also help keep dirt and trash out of the radiator.
Now a question from me. My throttle has gotten hard to move. It isn't froze up, but is much harder to move than when I got the machine. Can anyone tell me where to look first?

darinray

07-19-2009, 10:27 PM

Yup to what Danny B says about the fan.

Your throttle cable is rusting up inside and will eventually get harder and harder until you start damaging the handle mechanism and or bending or breaking the cable mounts. I change them on the dozers I sell if they are stiff.

Darin

MrKomatsu

07-20-2009, 06:54 AM

Stateline,

i'm glad u got it all working.............keep the peace.......later...:usa

nobbie

07-22-2009, 01:59 AM

hi everyone from downunder
i just registered and have a question or two you may be able to help me with.
i have acquired an old d 50 a which is around a 1966 model 14 tonne machiine.i rebuilt the motor around 15 years ago and it was bad then,but it lasted until aroun 3 yrs ago and has sat in the paddock headless and deteriorating since.
anyway iv gotten an old 6 cyl straight ford diesel to put in,i think the bellhousing will be similar,and the horsepower ,but i may have trouble remounting the main hyd pump as it is gear driven under the balancer,the clutch has a small pump for lube i think also running from the front timing gears,now the original d120 engine has a balance shaft thingy in the sump to make it run smooth so will i have to rubber mount the ford as it shall run rougher i would guess.
im trying to do it on the cheap as money is low at the moment so am really just throwing ideas around at the moment.
the dozer when going would be used on a hobby farm basis.
i heard that this eng was originally a cummins jap copy so perhaps a cummins 4 or 6 b would be better but i dont know much about these engines.
so hopefully somebody may be able to advise and it would be greatly appreciated.

funny thing is that ive got an old 10 t hymac excvator out in the yard too...still going...it has the same 6 cyl ford eng as i intend to put in the d50a. not many people know much about them either,i think they were the original excv that were made in the uk

dcara

07-27-2009, 07:09 AM

I have a Komatsu D31 and am looking for a source for used parts, preferably near Dallas Texas. I currently need a replacement exhaust stack. Any suggestins appreciated

MrKomatsu

07-27-2009, 03:51 PM

:drinkupdcara.....

Frontier tractor parts dallas tx.

Johnny 281-659-6620..tel him Texas Heavy Equipment sent ya.....

itbs

07-27-2009, 06:19 PM

I have a 1993 D21P-7 that I am now beginning to have an issue with. The dozer does not want to turn left after a couple of hours use. I pulled one of the corks out of the back on the left side and gear oil came out. I suspect I need to change the seal from the drive shaft. My question is, are there any other seals I need to change and how difficult is this job?

Rick

darinray

07-27-2009, 10:01 PM

Hello Rick,

There are drain plug on the bottom of the machine for you to remove instead of the corks and it take a 1/2" drive rachet to get em off.

You have to make sure where the oil is coming from (which oil level is lowering tranny, or bevel gear?) After knowing this you will know which seal to fix- steering cylinder seals or bevel gear seals. Hope this helps and you get her fixed.

Darin

itbs

07-27-2009, 10:25 PM

Darin,

Thanks for the info. I have checked the dip stick for the tranny and it appears to be fine, not any lower. I have noticed one thing, if I operate in low gear the problem does not happen as quickly. If I operate in high gear the problem happens quicker. I also noticed that when operating in low that the oil does not accumulate in the steering clutch area.

Thanks

Rick

darinray

07-27-2009, 10:31 PM

The low gear thing make sense due to the moving parts not revolving as much so the oil isn't getting kicked around as much. ?????

MrKomatsu

07-28-2009, 07:19 AM

itbs.....

it is a good idea since you will be in there already replace steering seals and bevel gear seals.....seals are cheap compared to down time......:drinkup:usa

dcara

07-28-2009, 06:11 PM

:drinkupdcara.....

Frontier tractor parts dallas tx.

Johnny 281-659-6620..tel him Texas Heavy Equipment sent ya.....

Thanks Mr. Komatsu

itbs

07-28-2009, 06:42 PM

Mr. Komatsu...

Thanks for the input. What kind of time am I looking at to do this? I have never worked on a dozer but was a heavy mechanic on machinery for several years. By appearance it looks to me like I will have to remove the track, left drive wheel/gear, split the casing and replace the seals. Is the bevel gear shaft hard to get out?

Rick

SantaCruzMtns

07-30-2009, 04:39 PM

Hi...
I am hoping for a little help on locating a parts number.
My boss has a Komatsu D21-A7 dozer, and the throttle cable {Fuel Control Lever** needs 2 be replaced. I would be a HUGE star in my bosses' {sp?** eyes if I could come up with the part number. I went 2 Komatsu's 'epartscentral' website & had 2 register {they have yet 2 get back 2 me** just to look at the parts lists. He needs 2 get the equipment back on the job ASAP.
Any help would be greatly appreciated & I will send lotsa good karma thoughts your way.. THANK YOU!

darinray

07-30-2009, 05:00 PM

103-43-35270 for 75001 and up in my parts book. Goodluck..

Darin

SantaCruzMtns

07-30-2009, 05:20 PM

103-43-35270 for 75001 and up in my parts book. Goodluck..

Darin

THANK YOU~THANK YOU~THANK YOU, Darin !!!!!
YOU are the HUGE star in my book. This is the 1st time I have ever posted to a message board, and thanx 2 you, it was a very enjoyable experience.
Too bad you're in New York....My boss would have loved 2 buy you a beer.
Thank you again & may the tractor Gods smile upon you.:notworthy

MrKomatsu

07-30-2009, 05:45 PM

santacruz......# superseeds to 104-43-44920 for cable

darinray

07-30-2009, 06:12 PM

The number I gave is the one that are on OEM cables here in stock. :( That 104-43-44920 number come back as a different price so am not sure if that is accurate because I don't have one here. ????? Komatsu's website doesn't superseede my number.

dcara

08-01-2009, 09:28 PM

Can you provide a link to the komatsu wed site of which you speak please?

My starter relay/solenoid died today on the 79 Komatsu D31S16, Sn 26253. Anyone know the part number and approxiomate cost?

It appears to be a separate part mounted right above the starter.

HDPSCORP

08-01-2009, 11:12 PM

Hello All,

I purchased a 1991 D20 P-6 end of last year at K-TOO, Suphur Spring TX (don't recommend this people for my worst enemy!:mad:) that supposed to be in very good plus conditions and the clutch and the brakes pedals were just very hard and kind of stuck....all fluids were very low, one shot dead battery and the list goes on and on.

Anyway, only now I have some spare time to start working on it, I did change the engine filter/oil today, added more to the hydraulic tank and tranny. I took the plates off and I am trying to figure out what is wrong with the brakes and principally the clutch.

When I got it, the brake pedal would not move at all, the clutch pedal would go "almost" all the way down (very hard) but would not come back by itself, I kind of had to pull it back with my hand. Now, after a few months of only turn it on and occasional back and forward, the clutch pedal will not go all the way down (it never touched the stopper from day one) and will come back very very little when I try bring it back with my hand.....I need now to turn the engine off in order to change from forward to reverse and it's not moving really well forward or reverse either...

I took the floor plate out and saw all the linkages and they look clean and appears to not to be the problem, I don't think is the case of adjustment, look like something stuck inside the clutch block?? I have not changed the oil, first time I check I saw no oil at all in the stick.....checked again later and after filling the hydraulics and it had oil.....kind strange or I am going crazy?...

Anyway, anybody guess what may be wrong with the clutch?? or give me some clues in what to check?? the brakes will be another battle after I fix the clutch.

Thanks for any help in davance,
Ed in TN

luc2121

08-09-2009, 12:07 PM

dcara

08-09-2009, 09:21 PM

I got a new starter solenoid to replace the one that went bad on my d31. I have unscrewed the old one but the plunger on it must be connected to something because it will only come out about 1/2 inch. Does anyone know if I have to remove the whole starter ?

shouldabeen

08-09-2009, 09:52 PM

this is my first post, i am looking at buying a d21e , they seem to be a nice machine . i am building a new house and need to lower and slope the back yard. i tried doing so with my kubota 8950 which is 85 pto hp and has a 7ft loader and has loaded tires and weighs around 12000lbs. it didnt work to well, would the d21 be better at this ? or would i be better off with a bigger dozer or a small excavator ?

if this all you need with the dozer then id say unless you got the money and nothing else to spend it on go ahead but I would buy a spring tooth plow or breaker plow for the kubota and a box blade and to finish it out smoothe use a grader blade the tractor is big enough to pull some 8' impliments and would only cost you about $4000 bucks and youd have them for anything else around the yard like the driveway I have a 5acr dirt bike track and the tractor moves the dirt faster than the dozer but I am just grading and moving the dirt ponds or up hill pushing would be different deal. "JMO though"

keito

08-12-2009, 09:56 PM

I also had some brake trouble if you look at my previous posts it might help. I bought my parts from darin. my little dozer is up running and doing well.
Hello All,

I purchased a 1991 D20 P-6 end of last year at K-TOO, Suphur Spring TX (don't recommend this people for my worst enemy!:mad:) that supposed to be in very good plus conditions and the clutch and the brakes pedals were just very hard and kind of stuck....all fluids were very low, one shot dead battery and the list goes on and on.

Anyway, only now I have some spare time to start working on it, I did change the engine filter/oil today, added more to the hydraulic tank and tranny. I took the plates off and I am trying to figure out what is wrong with the brakes and principally the clutch.

When I got it, the brake pedal would not move at all, the clutch pedal would go "almost" all the way down (very hard) but would not come back by itself, I kind of had to pull it back with my hand. Now, after a few months of only turn it on and occasional back and forward, the clutch pedal will not go all the way down (it never touched the stopper from day one) and will come back very very little when I try bring it back with my hand.....I need now to turn the engine off in order to change from forward to reverse and it's not moving really well forward or reverse either...

I took the floor plate out and saw all the linkages and they look clean and appears to not to be the problem, I don't think is the case of adjustment, look like something stuck inside the clutch block?? I have not changed the oil, first time I check I saw no oil at all in the stick.....checked again later and after filling the hydraulics and it had oil.....kind strange or I am going crazy?...

Anyway, anybody guess what may be wrong with the clutch?? or give me some clues in what to check?? the brakes will be another battle after I fix the clutch.

Thanks for any help in davance,
Ed in TN

HDPSCORP

08-12-2009, 10:15 PM

I also had some brake trouble if you look at my previous posts it might help. I bought my parts from darin. my little dozer is up running and doing well.

Hey Thanks......look like this Board lacks of people that really known or can help about those little devils, there is much more questions than answers...I wish I knew more to help out.

I got tired of it and just got my dozer in the Komatsu Dealership in Chattanooga/TN.....they are being pretty good and the service manager basically is calling me everyday for updates. Will need about $400 in parts and the labor is the killer, $90/hr.. Look like the guys that sold it to me out of TX (holedigger.net === STAY CLEAR FROM THIS PEOPLE!!!:mad::mad:) did some parts change prior shipping the machine to me, first and last time I buy a machine like that at distance.....
Fo rthe other fela looking for the Komatsu web site...here:

http://www.komatsuamerica.com/

http://www.komatsuamerica.com/?p=view&name=parts

http://www.komatsuamerica.com/?p=locator&f1=results&map=Y2l0eT0zNzMyMyZzdGF0ZT10biZwb3N0YWxjb2RlPSZwcm 94aW1pdHk9MTAw

http://www.wixfilters.com/filterlookup/index2.asp?Section=4&Make=384&SubMake=669&Model=19855&SubModel=&Engine=&Year=&TempSection=4&TempMake=384&TempSubMake=669&TempModel=19855&TempEngine=

dcara

08-14-2009, 06:45 AM

After trying 9 ways from Sunday to disconnect the solenoid from the starter last week on my Komatsu D31, I called the local dealer. He told me I would have to remove the starter and disassemble to disconnect the bendix fork from the solenoid. So yesterday I spent about an hour removing the starter. After setting the starter on the track I grabbed the solenoid and to my surprise (and pleasure) it just popped out. After looking at the bendix fork to see how to orient the solenoid to get it in and out I could do 1st time. So I put it all back together and I am up and running again. Sure glad I didn't just start taking that starter apart.

darinray

08-14-2009, 07:00 AM

Bravo. Nice fix and glad it worked out for you. I got here a day too late to try and help. :) Shoot it looks like I missed HDPSCORP's questions too. As hard as I try to be a 3 places at one time it just doesn't seem to work. :)

Yeah I have most of all the wear items needed for working on these little dozers so contact me anytime.

Darin

dcara

08-14-2009, 01:53 PM

There are different filters (which I want to replace) for the 2 different engines they put in the D31S-16. The 2 types of engines listed on the Komatsu site are the 4D92, and the 4D105-3. Given that this is a 30 year old machine, the engine could be either, or maybe something else. Can someone tell me where to look on the engine to see what type it is?

darinray

08-14-2009, 01:56 PM

There should be a tag on the valve cover OR check for stamped markings on the block. Give me the serial number of the dozer and I'll check for the year.

Darin

dcara

08-14-2009, 03:48 PM

Thanks

My serial number is 26253 (Komatsu D31S-16)

darinray

08-14-2009, 03:54 PM

According to my books it's a 1977 model and should have the 4D105 motor in it. BUT look for the tags to be sure or just order the filter and if they work great.. if not send em back I guess. :) Take care.

Darin

dcara

08-15-2009, 07:24 AM

Does anyone know the part number of the exhaust stack, and also the breather cap assembly for a D31S-16, sn 26253?

darinray

08-15-2009, 08:13 AM

The engine manual for this machine isn't coming up on my computer. :( You may have to call Komatsu dealer.

dcara

08-15-2009, 10:39 PM

Thanks for trying

joemorgan

08-22-2009, 02:54 PM

new guy on the block, has anyone adjusted the valves on a D20A-6 and what are the spec's for the exhaust and intake? I've adjusted plenty on cars, is this going to be the same type of adjusting method

thanks
joe

Frank Dozer

08-23-2009, 11:05 AM

I want to list my dozer for sale and I thought I'd offer it to someone in this group first before I advertise it publicly. 1985 Komatsu D21A-5, 6 way blade,1800 or so hours, all fluids changed, runs near perfect. Needs 1 track adjuster replaced and I have it, I just don't have the skill to do it. I bot a smaller dozer that I can haul with my truck and trailer. $9,000.00. Email: Sasiinc@aol.com for pictures. I'm in Massachusetts and have no means to deliver it.

Frank Dozer

08-23-2009, 11:10 AM

Here's a picture of my dozer for sale.

Danny B

08-24-2009, 10:46 PM

If there is anyone in the market and lives within driving distance of Okla. City; there is an auction this friday and saturday (28 & 29). It is near Norman. The flyer I received shows a D20A and a D20P. Also a 2000 D41P. Lots other eq. Web site is rosenfeltauctiononline.com

Danny B

09-01-2009, 09:46 AM

Carter Farms

09-02-2009, 09:33 AM

TopDeadCenter

09-04-2009, 03:41 PM

I'm not familiar with D20's but on most small dozers you access the steering clutch adjustment from the rear of the machine. There is normally a cover with 4 bolts or so and inside you'll find a couple small covers on the top rear of the bevel gear case. Removing the covers will expose a slack adjuster bolt. Tighten it slowly until you can feel resistance (Don't hulk out on it) then back each one off 1- 1 1/2 turns and test operate the unit's steering. Be sure that they are not too tight or it will cause damage.

P.S. Make an effort to prevent yourself from regularly turning in the same direction all the time. Alot of operators are "left-handed" or "right handed" and if you are always turning the same direction you will have uneven wear on your undercarriage and steering components.

Frank Dozer

09-05-2009, 03:33 PM

Well, I repaired the track adjuster today. Took the bull by the horns and attacked it. The new adjuster / grease adjuster is in and working great. I went for a ride and it feels great. I still need to sell it because I don't need 2 dozers. Email any interests.

I want to list my dozer for sale and I thought I'd offer it to someone in this group first before I advertise it publicly. 1985 Komatsu D21A-5, 6 way blade,1800 or so hours, all fluids changed, runs near perfect. Needs 1 track adjuster replaced and I have it, I just don't have the skill to do it. I bot a smaller dozer that I can haul with my truck and trailer. $9,000.00. Email: Sasiinc@aol.com for pictures. I'm in Massachusetts and have no means to deliver it.

barryiseeu

09-06-2009, 04:22 PM

Hi -- i have a D21A6 that has worked well for 2 summers -- this year the right track quit pulling - visited with a retired kamatsu mechanic and he said it was the steering clutch - it is pretty easy to change -- i have started - downloaded a shop manual - i have all of the bolts out, then it says:
Lift off steering clutch assembly (8).
w Steering clutch assembly: 30 kg
* Remove pilot portion of clutch drum and clutch,
then lift up.
What is the pilot portion of the clutch dtrum and clutch? the manual does a great job of explaining everything but this. I cannot get it out and am stuck. any help?

sal

09-12-2009, 09:31 AM

D21s-6a wouldn't steer removed bottom plugs each case lots of water.Opened cases not clutches but blocks of rust major clean out rebuild and reinstall books don't say if and amnt of oil in steering cases .the books do show drain plugs underneath and fill plugs on sides of main frame any help/advice would be much appreciated sal

darinray

09-12-2009, 05:01 PM

No oil Sal in the steering clutches. Hope this helps.

Darin

scokat

09-13-2009, 05:33 PM

so we started the pond, Just wanted to put up some pics. We have an excavator coming tuesday, to do the keyway, and help dig. We are down 4 feet on the uphill side, and pushing to the other end to biuld up the dam. :usa

darinray

09-13-2009, 08:02 PM

Bravo Scott. Your Dad looks at home on that baby. Keep up the good work guys and keep the pics a comin, :)

Darin

darinray

09-13-2009, 08:06 PM

If you have all the bolts out.... make sure becauase I've been known to leave 1 in and swear they were all out. :) You have to pry the inner drum inside the out drum so you have them both off the raised flanges that they mount to and then lift them out together. Sometimes the drums and clutch teeth don't line up and you have to cut the drum in half to get out. I've seen a few that are so rusted that it is physically impossible to move them inside the other. :(

Let us know how you make out.

Darin

Hi -- i have a D21A6 that has worked well for 2 summers -- this year the right track quit pulling - visited with a retired kamatsu mechanic and he said it was the steering clutch - it is pretty easy to change -- i have started - downloaded a shop manual - i have all of the bolts out, then it says:
Lift off steering clutch assembly (8).
w Steering clutch assembly: 30 kg
* Remove pilot portion of clutch drum and clutch,
then lift up.
What is the pilot portion of the clutch dtrum and clutch? the manual does a great job of explaining everything but this. I cannot get it out and am stuck. any help?

darinray

09-13-2009, 08:09 PM

First time user here!

I have a D20A-6 that I purchased 18 mo. ago and has been a real work horse for me on my 200 acre farm in northern middle Tennessee. The guy I purchased it from had just replaced the chains, rollers, sprockets, fuel injection pump, steering clutches, and brakes. The little dozer has approximately 3000 hrs on it, and all I have had to do is replace the throttle cable. Just in the past 2 mos I have been experiencing weak response in the left track in turning right, and now it will only sit there when pulling on the right lever. It's not locked up, it's just slipping. Can anyone give me a little advice on how to adjust the drive clutch on the left side so it will pull again?

Hello, Sorry but there is really no adjustment on the steering clutches to engage them more. Basically it sounds like your are wore bad and will need replacing. Unless you have trouble with linkages froze (steering valve spool pushed in) disengaging the clutches all the time you will have to tear into the machien and replace parts. :(

Darin

darinray

09-13-2009, 08:12 PM

A while back I adjusted the extra play on my controls to what the owners manual recommends. I think it was 240mm. Now my left control acts like the clutch does not want to release. I havn't "worked" it but very little since the adjustment. It seems to start freeing up if I use it. Is this an indication of a problem or possible problem? Should I back out some of the adjustment? The right side is working OK.

Kinda sounds like your steering clutches are sticking together and until you work it some they make it difficult to turn. ????? OR You adjusted it wrong and are not allowing the full travel of the linkage to push the spool in the valve body which release the clutches. ??? Let us know.

Darin

itbs

09-13-2009, 08:50 PM

I need some help. My 21P will not start. I started it last weekend and when it first cranked it at half throttle it began to run unevenly and no matter where I placed the throttle nothing happened it just reved high then low. I started off across the field lunging and then it began to run fine and was responsive at the throttle. Then I turned the ignition off but the dozer wouldn't stop, it just sat there and idled up and down. Finally it died and I started it again and it wouldn't do anything but idle up then down no matter where I had the throttle. Now it will not start at all. Please help

Danny B

09-13-2009, 11:13 PM

Darin
I think the owners manual said to adjust to 240mm of play in levers. Is that correct? The right one was very close to that when I adjusted, the left needed more adjustment. The left one will work loose with a little use. I really need to get shop/mantainance manual so I can see what is inside. Can you recommend a couple trustworthy sources?
Thanks.

04DuramaxLB7

09-14-2009, 03:47 AM

Hello everyone,my name is Shawn and I'm new to the site!I am part owner of a motocross track here in ohio (www.muskingumvalleymx.com)!
I bought a Komatsu D21P-6 out of New York a couple months ago to build/maintain the track!I paid 9k for the machine,and it is over all in great shape!I'm not sure of the exact year but on the tag it says D21P-6,AND #67811,CAN ANYONE MAKE SENSE OF THAT?
I was building a jump the other day when all of a sudden the machine wouldn't turn to the right!I checked all the adjustments(linkages) but they all seemed correct!
When I pull the right lever it just stops,like I'm hitting the brakes!My guess would have to be steering clutches(?),but I'm going into this blind,I have no literature on the machine!
If anyone has any input on this problem I'd appreciate the help!I plan on trailering it 20 miles to my fathers shop in the afternoon to start tearing it down!

barryiseeu

09-14-2009, 09:13 AM

04DuramaxLB7

09-14-2009, 07:01 PM

I got the dozer trailered to our garage,and got it stripped down and the top cover off!It seemed as if the arm that engages the clutch wasn't engaging properly!I started to remove the clutch assembly,I'm kinda afraid of what I'll find!There is alos oil in the bottom of the case,I'm guessing a bad seal?Anyone have any advice/pointers?It would be nice if someone could provide some pics/instructions!

joemorgan

09-15-2009, 11:41 AM

it could be a stopped up fuel filter

dozerdame

09-16-2009, 02:19 PM

I'm new to the forum and have a problem I hope someone can solve. I bought an old Komatsu D-41P-3 dozer a year ago to enlarge my pond. My friends think I'm nuts as most women don't own dozers. Anyway, I've been having fun pushing dirt around making my pond bigger. Today I wanted to check the fuel level and found that I could not get the fuel cap off. It is a locking cap. I've never used the key to get it off before but when the cap would not come off, I tried using the key. But the cap just twirls around and won't come off. Anyone have any suggestions on how to get it off? I'm afraid to use my dozer without checking the fuel level as I ran out of gas this summer and it was a pain getting it going again. Any help would be appreciated. Sheila

darinray

09-16-2009, 04:40 PM

:) Yeah they are a pain in the butt when not sure. Actually it is locked when the cap just spins with NO effort. Turn the key the other way until it is hard to turn and then turn it off the tank. Hope this helps and let us know.

Darin

I'm new to the forum and have a problem I hope someone can solve. I bought an old Komatsu D-41P-3 dozer a year ago to enlarge my pond. My friends think I'm nuts as most women don't own dozers. Anyway, I've been having fun pushing dirt around making my pond bigger. Today I wanted to check the fuel level and found that I could not get the fuel cap off. It is a locking cap. I've never used the key to get it off before but when the cap would not come off, I tried using the key. But the cap just twirls around and won't come off. Anyone have any suggestions on how to get it off? I'm afraid to use my dozer without checking the fuel level as I ran out of gas this summer and it was a pain getting it going again. Any help would be appreciated. Sheila

dozerdame

09-16-2009, 07:19 PM

Thanks Darin,
When my husband came home from work, he figured out that the key needed to be turned the other way. So now I can get back to dozing tomorrow

duwat

10-04-2009, 04:50 PM

I'm new to this....I have a question for someone. I have a D-21A - 6 which I have owned for 10 years. I have been extremely happy with it and have done my own repairs up to this point. My problem started with a shift cable and I replaced the cable which was quite pricey at the Komatsu dealer of course. My problem is the left track is totally locked up. I have checked the final drive compartment for metal with a magnet....and the oil is clean. I also have checked the ring and pinion compartment with a magnet and it is clean. The dozer moves forward but not as free as it should, but when you put it in reverse, it kills the engine. Does anyone out there have any tech expertise in this regard?

Thanks! DuWat

darinray

10-04-2009, 05:04 PM

Don't know about expertise but I am thinking it's your brake band that is stuck engage and you need to release it either externally (hopefuly) or internally. Grab the pivot point of the brake control arm by the steering valve under the seat with a large cresent wrench and release it that way. you may have to take things apart to lube them so they don't do this again but this shoudl get you closer to figuring it out. :)

Darin

duwat

10-04-2009, 05:08 PM

Darin....that's what I was thinking...I have stripped everything down to that point, but the weather has turned bad here, and I covered everything up. I appreciate the reply.

Thanks! DuWat

I'll post and let you know how things turn out.

MrKomatsu

10-05-2009, 07:00 AM

:usaDang i've bn away...to long...duwat, hello and welcome...just as darinray said you need to release the brake on the side that is locking up....i've seen this problem a dozen times or more..if it lossens up and moves freely then you will have to go inside to repair...but look on the bright side you have run it for ten years now....not bad for a older model...let me know what you find....:usa

HDPSCORP

10-18-2009, 01:22 PM

Hello,

Posted here before months ago with some brake and steering problems I had....I left it at the Komatsu dealer and got resolved (at a cost of an arm) and this section it's working great. Now I have a problem with the oil pressure light coming on basically when I depress the clutch pedal, it comes on and off it does not stay on all the time...at least for now.

I changed oil/filter about 10 working hours ago, just checked and it is in the level but very black in color, when I first changed it, the original oil on it was pitch black and may be some of residue still in.

I noticed that when I just start the engine, it puffs white smoke until it gets warm, than the smoke goes away....it's normal?

I would imagine that if I had bad rings my engine oil would be under the level and the smoke would be at all times right?

I will change the oil and filter again as well check the air filter and see what happens...any other idea??

Thanks guys!

Ed

darinray

10-18-2009, 09:08 PM

Dang it.. get one problem fixed and another shows up. :( Best thing to do is put a mechanical gauge on it to check the pressure. Use the oil pressure switch sending unit's hole in the block (might want to change the switch if you see any oil around it or just because it's not much money I would change it)

The smoke is fine i would think due to the color of the smoke until it warms up. To check a bit better pull the fill cap on teh valve cover to check for blowby when the machine is warm. But if it was mine I woudl forget about the smoke thing due to the nature of diesels and smoke. :)

Biggest thing for now is making sure you have oil pressure before you trash the engine. Right now a rebuild would be cheaper than if you spin a bearing and take out your crank and block. :(

Keep us posted

Darin

HDPSCORP

10-18-2009, 10:22 PM

darinray

10-18-2009, 10:28 PM

dmm@inbox.as

Please include your machine information so I can be sure to get the correct parts to you. :) Talk to you again

Darin

dcara

10-19-2009, 12:39 PM

I'm looking for a crankshaft for my Komatsu D31S-16, sn 26253. The engine model is 4D105-3, pn is 63HP2350, sn is 44393. I think the crankshaft pn is 6131-32-1101.

I already know a new crankshaft is about $7500 so I am not interested in a new one. I have been told I should be able to find one for less than $1500

darinray

10-20-2009, 09:12 PM

Hello dcara,

I have a brand new one for you for $750 plus freight. Let me know if you want this.

Darin

dcara

10-21-2009, 06:57 AM

Great! My mechanic said to be sure to confirm the casting number imprinted on it if I found one. Could you confirm the casting number on it please.

Do you know what shipping charges are to Richardson Tx?, or can you tell me the size and weight of the box so I can get shipping charge info?

Also, do you have a rebuild kit? Price?

Do you ship COD?

Thanks

darinray

10-21-2009, 10:21 PM

Thanks for the call today and am wondering if you found out the stroke?

The rebuild kit std would be $1100

shipping won't be bad but need to know what all you would want. :) Talk to you soon I hope.

Darin

Great! My mechanic said to be sure to confirm the casting number imprinted on it if I found one. Could you confirm the casting number on it please.

Do you know what shipping charges are to Richardson Tx?, or can you tell me the size and weight of the box so I can get shipping charge info?

Also, do you have a rebuild kit? Price?

Do you ship COD?

Thanks