PDA

View Full Version : How to remove stabilizer pins on Deere 310D



Deon
08-11-2012, 08:22 PM
The pin and bushing at the stabilizer base are worn and so causes my tractor to move around a little to much while using the hole. The pin is about 2 1/8" in diameter and both frame bosses are about 1 1/2" thick. The pin seems seized into both sides. What is the best way to remove this pin?

Also, my stabilizer cylinder needs a new seal kit but the pin at the rod end is seized into the rod bushing. Deere did not put grease fittings there so the pin is turning in the leg end instead of the rod end. What is your expert advice to remove this pin? And before someone tells me to remove the cylinder from the machine to replace the seals, that end is seized also.:beatsme

case 580sm
08-12-2012, 09:58 AM
Well those pins are on there pretty tight if u say thay there seized. To take them off you'll need to remove a snap pin from the big pin to release it on both sides because there's, one on the left, and one on the right. You'll need heavy duty snap ring plyers to remove it to get the pin out. It would be a good idea to remove the tire because the way I would do it is take a sledge hammer to the left side of it to remove it, and it should come free. That's going to be the way on how it's going to be removed. Now the only way I keep my stabilizers/feet in good condition is that I oil, and grease in between the pins to keep them from squeeking on my 580 super m. It does work, and it helps too. How is the left foot on the machine? Same story? How many hours?

Good luck

case 580sm

planecrazzzy
08-12-2012, 10:51 AM
Sometimes... The pin "Wears" like a Cam.... You might not have a "Seized" pin.... You might need to adjust things a little , so when you

send it home with a sledge hammer.... it jumps the "Step" in the worn pin....

On other places I have set up a simple 1-1/2 ton Bottle jack holding pressure on a pin while I move the piece attached by moving the cyl...

When it finds the opening... the pin / with pressure on it , Slips into the hole...

You may need to repeat this when it gets to the other side...

Never seen a pin seized too much that a sledge won't move it....
.
Just my 2 cents,
Gotta Fly...
Mike & "Jaz" the Flying Dogz
.

crewchief888
08-12-2012, 02:54 PM
heat, beat, and repeat


:drinkup

planecrazzzy
08-12-2012, 03:26 PM
Not if you heat the wrong piece... Heating the pin will expand it... making it tighter...

Heating the ears that hold the bearings will grow and the bearing will be loose..

You can heat it and cool it... That would shrink the material...
.
I would avoid heat unless all else fails...

Heat and cool the wrong thing and you make "it" tighter...

But , That's just my 2 cents...

Gotta Fly...

Deon
08-12-2012, 05:29 PM
Seams I didn't explain myself properly. Last month I replaced the seals on the right stabilizer. I use a 20 ton bottle jack with steel plates and rods to attempt to press out the pin from the rod clevis. With the jack pumped to the max and the clevis red as I could get it with a cutting torch, it did'nt budge. I ended up cutting the pin off each side of the clevis with a chop saw and constant water spray to prevent the pin ftom overheating and glazing the 14" cutting disk. Once the rod was out of the stabilizer leg I burnt the remaining pin out of the clevis bushing with a cutting torch. That's quite a bit of work. As I said in the first post, Deere did not put grease fittings on the rod bushing down next to the stabilizer feet. Therefore it's been dry for 20 years. I'm hoping someone can teach me something I don't already know.

planecrazzzy
08-12-2012, 05:45 PM
We're gonna need to know "What you know".... Then go from there ?
Gotta Fly...

Seems like I posted for nothing... You already had it repaired...
.

.

Seams I didn't explain myself properly. I'm hoping someone can teach me something I don't already know.

Deon
08-12-2012, 05:50 PM
We're gonna need to know "What you know".... Then go from there ?
Gotta Fly...

Seems like I posted for nothing... You already had it repaired...
.

.Yes but the left one. Needs to be done. There must be a better way.

planecrazzzy
08-12-2012, 06:41 PM
Even thou you put pressure with a 20 ton jack.... Adding a "Shock" could be the difference...

What size sledge did you try hitting the other one with ? Did you get a GOOD swing at it with a LEAST a 10 lb sledge ?
.
Gotta Fly...
.
Also... did you try to move the Stabilizer slightly with pressure on it... The cylinder might give you some help...
..

crewchief888
08-12-2012, 06:51 PM
Seams I didn't explain myself properly. Last month I replaced the seals on the right stabilizer. I use a 20 ton bottle jack with steel plates and rods to attempt to press out the pin from the rod clevis. With the jack pumped to the max and the clevis red as I could get it with a cutting torch, it did'nt budge. I ended up cutting the pin off each side of the clevis with a chop saw and constant water spray to prevent the pin ftom overheating and glazing the 14" cutting disk. Once the rod was out of the stabilizer leg I burnt the remaining pin out of the clevis bushing with a cutting torch. That's quite a bit of work. As I said in the first post, Deere did not put grease fittings on the rod bushing down next to the stabilizer feet. Therefore it's been dry for 20 years. I'm hoping someone can teach me something I don't already know.

thats pretty much what we used to do with them 20 years ago when they seized up

:cussing

:drinkup

coalrulz
08-12-2012, 06:59 PM
Deon, When you lift the stabilizer up and down does the pin(stabilizer to machine) turn with the stablilizer?
I have seen where they were seized in the stabilizer foot and not on the frame ears, We had to use a 100 ton track press to get the pin to pop.

Good luck!

Deon
08-12-2012, 07:28 PM
Deon, When you lift the stabilizer up and down does the pin(stabilizer to machine) turn with the stablilizer?
I have seen where they were seized in the stabilizer foot and not on the frame ears, We had to use a 100 ton track press to get the pin to pop.

Good luck!
Coalrulz, on the tractor end of the stabilizer leg, the pin is seized to the tractor frame. The pin is loose in the buching. That means if I use heat, I need to heat the frame at both ends of the pin at once. Since I don't have a 100 ton press or bottle jack, what must I do?:beatsme

coalrulz
08-12-2012, 07:55 PM
Deon,

If you could get your hands on a Oxygen Lance that should do it. You will destroy the pin when you lance through it though.

If you have never used a oxy-lance it is good idea to have someone experienced do it for you, or at least give you a few pointers.

d9gdon
08-12-2012, 08:19 PM
I second the idea on the Oxy Lance. Get a full set of leathers when you do it.

Deon
08-12-2012, 08:40 PM
Coalrulz & d9gdon,
You may be both right. I have never heard of one. I went online to learn about it. WOW. It may work but can you burn through the length of a 2" diameter pin and not damage the surrounding metal? The Youtube videos I watched seemed to be out of control.

willie59
08-12-2012, 09:50 PM
I've worked on a number of outriggers that are stuck like that. Always a bastard to get apart and repair, and not always the same methods work depending on what's worn. If it's stuck in the pin bosses on each side, not the arm or rod eye, lots of heat with a rose bud on the pin bosses, stay away from the pin as much as possible. It helps to run a trickle of water from a garden hose onto rod eye and arm while heating pin bosses, this helps extract some of the heat from the pin.

Be careful whacking the pin with a sledge, if you mushroom the end, you basically brad the pin in the hole, good luck getting it out then.

On thing that can really put a hurt on getting it apart is if the rod eye or arm has worn into the pin and caused a burr on pin shaft. If it has, you won't be able to drive the pin through the hole in pin boss. I've had to cut pin with a sawzall when that happens. Good luck.

Deon
08-12-2012, 10:13 PM
On thing that can really put a hurt on getting it apart is if the rod eye or arm has worn into the pin and caused a burr on pin shaft. If it has, you won't be able to drive the pin through the hole in pin boss. I've had to cut pin with a sawzall when that happens. Good luck.[/QUOTE]

Willy59,
Thanks for comming in. The sawzall method sounds good. You may have noticed my first post where I used an abrasive 14" cutting wheel. But the big question is where the heck do you get a sawzall blade that will cut such a hard pin? A sawzall is a recipicating saw, is it not?

willie59
08-12-2012, 10:18 PM
Yep, didn't say it was fast and easy Deon, but it's been a last resort for me in the past. Have to use a long, fine tooth Bi-metal blade, and lots of tool lubricant.