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MR. KOBELCO
04-02-2012, 09:33 PM
I am trying to locate a mechanic in my area, which is around the Waco, Texas area, that can work on a Kobelco Trachoe. We thought is was a computer issue but not sure that is the case beings we bought a new one and are still having the same issues, controls are not responding.

hi,
i maybe able to help, but i'll need your model and serial number. if newer unit i can likely diagnose over the phone - you being my eyes.
e-mail me at " hf_hydraulics@hotmail.com "
you can phone me at home after hours at 905-697-9626.
it would be best you call me from your machine.
cheers
adam

shinigamix2x
04-03-2012, 06:30 PM
Good day to you Mr. Adam and to all on this forum,

SK330LC Dynamic Acera 6E, S/N: YC06
Finding out for a friend of mine,

Problem: The oil seal that separates the Hydraulic Travel Motor from the case that contains the gear oil, is being blown out by the pressure of the motor (Left-Side). Seal was replaced with a new one, also local kobelco dealers came and changed relief valves, changed pressure sensors, also test the pressure on the system and according to their findings, the hydraulic system pressure is OK!. Now these local dealers, I mean no disrespect to them, but their level of understanding of these equipment is not quite up there to the guy that started this thread in the first place.

So I'm here seeking advice for my friend.
Could you inform me what the cause of the problem is? If there are things that needs to be double-checked please do inform me.
Thank you for your time.
Taradath Mohan.

MR. KOBELCO
04-03-2012, 07:52 PM
Good day to you Mr. Adam and to all on this forum,

SK330LC Dynamic Acera 6E, S/N: YC06
Finding out for a friend of mine,

Problem: The oil seal that separates the Hydraulic Travel Motor from the case that contains the gear oil, is being blown out by the pressure of the motor (Left-Side). Seal was replaced with a new one, also local kobelco dealers came and changed relief valves, changed pressure sensors, also test the pressure on the system and according to their findings, the hydraulic system pressure is OK!. Now these local dealers, I mean no disrespect to them, but their level of understanding of these equipment is not quite up there to the guy that started this thread in the first place.

So I'm here seeking advice for my friend.
Could you inform me what the cause of the problem is? If there are things that needs to be double-checked please do inform me.
Thank you for your time.
Taradath Mohan.

lol,
sorry,...
2 things, stall your travel motors with stalling pins in the sprocket.
feel with your hand or even measure with a temp gun the oil temp of the hyd travel mtr case drain tube.
medium sized tube or smaller of the 3.
if the side that is popping the hyd travel mtr shaft seal is hotter than the other good side your internal leakage to lubricate the pistons etc...is too excessive
therefore, hyd piston motor rotating group is worn out.
or can be simpler,...the 2 motor case drain lines tee at the bottom of the swivel rotary joint in the center,
visually follow the case drain line tube of bad side looking for kinks or even an internal blockage right at fitting exiting case drain port where tube attaches.
if hyd mtr is worn out or broke pieces of brass can jam inside fitting.
hyd pressure is created by resistance to the oil flow.
either oil flow is too great for hyd tube to handle, mtr worn out, oil that does not create work such as used to turn track, the wasted oil from internal bypassing oil energy ends up transferring into heat. or line is kinked being restricted.
rambling on here...i am sure you get my points by now.
adam

shinigamix2x
04-04-2012, 01:27 AM
lol,
sorry,...
2 things, stall your travel motors with stalling pins in the sprocket.
feel with your hand or even measure with a temp gun the oil temp of the hyd travel mtr case drain tube.
medium sized tube or smaller of the 3.
if the side that is popping the hyd travel mtr shaft seal is hotter than the other good side your internal leakage to lubricate the pistons etc...is too excessive
therefore, hyd piston motor rotating group is worn out.
or can be simpler,...the 2 motor case drain lines tee at the bottom of the swivel rotary joint in the center,
visually follow the case drain line tube of bad side looking for kinks or even an internal blockage right at fitting exiting case drain port where tube attaches.
if hyd mtr is worn out or broke pieces of brass can jam inside fitting.
hyd pressure is created by resistance to the oil flow.
either oil flow is too great for hyd tube to handle, mtr worn out, oil that does not create work such as used to turn track, the wasted oil from internal bypassing oil energy ends up transferring into heat. or line is kinked being restricted.
rambling on here...i am sure you get my points by now.
adam


Now this is what I'm talking about, apparently when defects appear on these machines, the first thing to do is to change parts according to "technicians" down here. Not anyone of them will perform these tests to pin-point the cause, they just tell you, "okay, we will have to change this and that and see how things go from there" and the expense is on your hands. Sigh! As for your reply, I do get your points, I will print and pass on this information.

Thank you again,
T.Mohan

Bulldozer70
04-06-2012, 02:20 PM
I have a kobelco sk120, it runs fine but none of the hydraulics work. This machine has had seriouse electrical wiring issues in the past. is there a solenoid that cuts the hyds off? please help

MR. KOBELCO
04-06-2012, 04:30 PM
I have a kobelco sk120, it runs fine but none of the hydraulics work. This machine has had seriouse electrical wiring issues in the past. is there a solenoid that cuts the hyds off? please help

hi there,
yes it has a pilot lever lock sol/v that if not energised or its coil has failed it will not turn on the pilot gear pump oil to your joystick and pedal controls.
i would suggest you phone me i'm at home with your serial number, or e-mail me at hf_hydraulics@hotmail.com
again with your ser# ypu-####
i can direct you to where its located and you can test coil or if power is being supplied.
thx
adam

MR. KOBELCO
04-06-2012, 04:39 PM
for all my home ph: 1-905-697-9626
cheers!
adam

Noel3
04-11-2012, 07:34 PM
Hello
i have a Grand Beetle 135SR - i let it run out of diesel today. it wont start now. how do i get the air out of the diesel lines???? Thanks

MR. KOBELCO
04-11-2012, 08:04 PM
Hello
i have a Grand Beetle 135SR - i let it run out of diesel today. it wont start now. how do i get the air out of the diesel lines???? Thanks

hi,
i do believe your engine is an isuzu. it should have a fuel injection pump and is not a common rail engine.
therefore,
i suggest that you first remove and clean your 2 inline fuel line screens.
one is inside the bolt joining the fuel line to the inlet port on the fuel water/sep filter head, the other is in the bolt joining the fuel line to the inlet side of the fuel transfer lift pump (where you pump and prime the fuel filter).
next best to replace the fuel filter too.
then prime your fuel filter until fuel exits the bleed screw on top the fuel filter head.
after crack loose the fuel lines at all the fuel injectors, check see if eng emergency stop cable is connected at the fuel inj pump,
if so, pull the emergency engine stop cable located under the cab seat, bottom right corner when sitting in the seat,
crank over the engine so does not start but allows the fuel inj pump to push out all the air from the lines feeding the injectors.
retighten the fuel lines at injectors. return eng emerg shut-off cable and start the engine.
it may run a bit rough at first go but should smoothen out.
cheers!
adam

Noel3
04-11-2012, 08:50 PM
Thanks Adam

Ill give that a go.

Noel

Andy75
04-12-2012, 02:26 AM
Hi Just wondering where in Australia I can get a workshop manual for a SK 045 excavator ? Having problems with the machine not slewing, No movement from the bucket or arm at all. Found a solenoid with broken wires, think it's called a control cut solenoid not sure. It was located under were your left foot would be. going to replace it, do you think that is the problem ?
Thanks Andrew

MR. KOBELCO
04-12-2012, 09:24 AM
Hi Just wondering where in Australia I can get a workshop manual for a SK 045 excavator ? Having problems with the machine not slewing, No movement from the bucket or arm at all. Found a solenoid with broken wires, think it's called a control cut solenoid not sure. It was located under were your left foot would be. going to replace it, do you think that is the problem ?
Thanks Andrew

hi andrew,
before i can aid i will require the serial number taken off the unit itself.
with that i can see what i can do for you
cheers
adam

sk135
04-12-2012, 10:01 AM
Hello
I have an excavator Kobelco SK135LC 1999 he appeared in the monitor KPSS disengaged

MR. KOBELCO
04-12-2012, 10:53 AM
Hello
I have an excavator Kobelco SK135LC 1999 he appeared in the monitor KPSS disengaged

hi,
check your kpss release chromed toggle switch located behind the cab seat behind rubber grommet on panel.
somebody has flipped the switch on you turning off the computer.
adam

stock
04-12-2012, 12:09 PM
Mr Kobelco! just a note of thanks to you for assistance to others here on the HEF, Well done lad keep up the good work............

Greg in KY
04-12-2012, 12:37 PM
I second that

sk135
04-12-2012, 12:41 PM
hello
I check switch it on KPSS, still the same message on the monitor

MR. KOBELCO
04-12-2012, 12:45 PM
hello
I check switch it on KPSS, still the same message on the monitor

hi,
please provide me your serial number off the machine.
i can send you an electrical schematic.
it could be you have a shorted wire off the kpss switch fooling the computer to think you have disengaged when in fact its not
e-mail me at " hf_hydraulics@hotmail.com "
adam

Andy75
04-12-2012, 07:27 PM
hi andrew,
before i can aid i will require the serial number taken off the unit itself.
with that i can see what i can do for you
cheers
adam

Thanks Adam, the serial No. PYO3966

MR. KOBELCO
04-12-2012, 09:09 PM
Thanks Adam, the serial No. PYO3966

hi,
thanks for ser# but i forgot to ask you to send me an e-mail to hf_hydraulics@hotmail.com as so i may reply
thx
adam

kp100
04-13-2012, 08:09 AM
Quenton

Not sure if you have had any success finding the cause of the wrench screen but I have narrowed mine down to a faulty ignition switch. New from Kobelco is $220 which is crazy but just by wiggling my old one I could make it work and the screen cleared. The next time I put a tiny amount of WD40 on the key and ran it in and out a few times noticing the Barrel of the ignition moved up and down at least half an inch. In fact the green lights came on just by moving the key up and down without moving it to the on position. Might be worth a look on yours.

MR. KOBELCO
04-13-2012, 08:31 AM
Quenton

Not sure if you have had any success finding the cause of the wrench screen but I have narrowed mine down to a faulty ignition switch. New from Kobelco is $220 which is crazy but just by wiggling my old one I could make it work and the screen cleared. The next time I put a tiny amount of WD40 on the key and ran it in and out a few times noticing the Barrel of the ignition moved up and down at least half an inch. In fact the green lights came on just by moving the key up and down without moving it to the on position. Might be worth a look on yours.

good show. thanks for the feedback!
much appreciated.

DripCo
04-13-2012, 10:33 AM
I am considering purchasing a 1996 Model 120 Kobelco excavator. I ran it yesterday. It seem to be a tight machine. It has @ 6600 Hours on it. The guy said the previous owner had trouble with it bogging down after it ran for a while. He put a new hydraulic pump on it & that did not fix it. The new owner replaced a teflon screen in one of the banjo fittings & he said that fixed it. The thing I am wondering about, is when you run the machine, you can kill the motor if you try to dig it hard. Is that common? Shouldn't the relief valves open before the motor dies? It does have the Izuzu motor in it. It doesn't smoke & seems OK, but maybe it is underpowered by nature, worn out, or its a hydraulic relief valve issue. Any help or suggestions are appreciated. Thanx Drip

MR. KOBELCO
04-13-2012, 11:17 AM
I am considering purchasing a 1996 Model 120 Kobelco excavator. I ran it yesterday. It seem to be a tight machine. It has @ 6600 Hours on it. The guy said the previous owner had trouble with it bogging down after it ran for a while. He put a new hydraulic pump on it & that did not fix it. The new owner replaced a teflon screen in one of the banjo fittings & he said that fixed it. The thing I am wondering about, is when you run the machine, you can kill the motor if you try to dig it hard. Is that common? Shouldn't the relief valves open before the motor dies? It does have the Izuzu motor in it. It doesn't smoke & seems OK, but maybe it is underpowered by nature, worn out, or its a hydraulic relief valve issue. Any help or suggestions are appreciated. Thanx Drip

hi,
my guess is that the hours are more likely 16,600. the other digit maybe covered up by the cover plate. i would suggest you check this.
as for the bogging it could be the engine cannot handle the hyd load, or the hp o/rings in the hyd pump regulators are leaking by upstroking the hyd pump not allowing the hyd to cut flow when under load to keep up eng rpms
in hyd the reliefs do limit the max system prs by dumping the oil back to the hyd tank.
usually when a relief fails it fails open.
the reliefs are likely not the problem.
could be the fuel inj pump is worn out and fuel inj have likely never been touched.
adam

DripCo
04-13-2012, 04:39 PM
Is the pressure relief controlled bya computer on that model?

MR. KOBELCO
04-13-2012, 04:43 PM
Is the pressure relief controlled bya computer on that model?

no,
mechanical 2-stage relief
adam

Noel3
04-13-2012, 06:50 PM
Thanks for the help,

All done and back in operation!!!
One more quick question, lately when I first start it, for the first minute or so there is a high pitched squeaking? I was thinking the fan belt or something? I was going to put some WD40 oil on it??

Thanks

Noel

MR. KOBELCO
04-13-2012, 07:07 PM
Thanks for the help,

All done and back in operation!!!
One more quick question, lately when I first start it, for the first minute or so there is a high pitched squeaking? I was thinking the fan belt or something? I was going to put some WD40 oil on it??

Thanks

Noel

hi,
i don't recommend that, it could be your belts may want to try adjusting or replacing them.
if you have air cond, could be the air cond idler pulley.
cheers!
adam

simon slater
04-17-2012, 11:10 AM
Dear Mr Kobelco

I have a Kobelco SK16 (poss MSR) mini digger that needs some pins, bushing and a bit of tlc, Im having problems locating a manual and dealer in my area and cant even be sure the model i own is registered correctly? im aware its an import (i assume they all are) but i cant even get a picture on screen that is anywhere like mine,: in brief mine has a distintive curved glass rear screen expanding tracks, I think its a 2003 model and the serial no is PF02 02262........... I would appreciate any help you may be able to offer. thank you.. Simon Slater.

MR. KOBELCO
04-17-2012, 02:13 PM
Dear Mr Kobelco

I have a Kobelco SK16 (poss MSR) mini digger that needs some pins, bushing and a bit of tlc, Im having problems locating a manual and dealer in my area and cant even be sure the model i own is registered correctly? im aware its an import (i assume they all are) but i cant even get a picture on screen that is anywhere like mine,: in brief mine has a distintive curved glass rear screen expanding tracks, I think its a 2003 model and the serial no is PF02 02262........... I would appreciate any help you may be able to offer. thank you.. Simon Slater.

hi simon,
please e-mail me directly i'll be able to forward you some info to help.
hf_hydraulics@hotmail.com
adam

DripCo
04-25-2012, 08:01 AM
MR K my excavator serial # is YP-0217
By the way, on this Model, there is a switch in the right arm rest. It is hidden way in the back. Thru some other research, I've found that this bypasses the hydraulic computer. It now operates as it should ( I think, Havent had a chance to use it much though)

MR. KOBELCO
04-25-2012, 07:49 PM
MR K my excavator serial # is YP-0217
By the way, on this Model, there is a switch in the right arm rest. It is hidden way in the back. Thru some other research, I've found that this bypasses the hydraulic computer. It now operates as it should ( I think, Havent had a chance to use it much though)

hi drip,
thanks for posting here. i am attempting to keep posts on kobelco models in one location.
a library of sorts, common issues that may arise. i have heard that most read the posts and i cases end up finding a solution to a problem they are experiencing
and end up sorting themselves out.

this switch you mention is what is called by kobelco a " KPSS RELEASE SWITCH " in some models such as yours its located inside the r/h console at the back,
usually a removable rubber grommet covers the access hole. if this switch has never been touched or replaced generally when the switch is flicked up this will turn off the computer putting the mechatronics system into " LIMP HOME " mode. it is not meant to be run constantly this way, its too hard on the main hyd pumps and you'll reduce their life expectancy greatly. toggle switch flicked down is having the computer on and the c-1 controller can operate as should to help control the horsepower
keeping the engine rpm up by helping to destroke the pumps thru the pf solenoid on the pump assy normally when something is not quite right such as a hyd system problem or weak engine. fuel problem, turbo, etc...
the pf solenoid is always helping to a small degree but when the computer senses too much rpm drop the computer sends a higher mA signal to help out.
when you shut-off the kpss rls switch the power off a fuse is fed thru a current limiting resistor and the pf solenoid cuts the oil flow to about 1/2 at all times.
it is fairly easy to verify if computer is controlling the pf solenoid or not.
the pf solenoid is proportional acting and threads into a block.
there is a test port on the block. 1/4" JIS, BSPP threads. stick a 1,000 psi hyd prs gauge on and observe when operating the machine.
the hyd prs should vary with the load on the engine. if not, if hyd prs is steady then the switch is in direction of shutting off the computer (limp mode).
if no hyd prs is registered, either the fuses are blown, 1 amp/5 amp fuses, current limiting resistor is bad, connections rotted, pf sol coil is burnt out
13.5 - 30 ohms ?, or c-1 computer pcb is burnt and i maybe able to repair.
pf sol power - c-1 sends 24 vdc. one wire is + the other is the ground wire.

if you do not mind please send me an e-mail to " hf_hydraulics@hotmail.com " and afterwards if you like provide me your findings.
you could have a few issues you maybe unaware being the age your machine is.
cheers!
adam
:)

Actioninc
04-26-2012, 09:56 PM
What is the bucket pin dimensions for a sk235 zero turn? any help would be appreciated.

MR. KOBELCO
04-27-2012, 08:56 AM
What is the bucket pin dimensions for a sk235 zero turn? any help would be appreciated.

hi,
please send me an e-mail to " hf_hydraulics@hotmail.com "
include your serial number too YU...
i will return details promptly.
cheers
adam

mopar2256
04-28-2012, 02:22 PM
Mr Kobelco, I'm new here and looking for some guidance on a Sk135srlc 2004 model S.N Yh03-02414. I installed a aftermarket hyd. thumb for a customer last fall with no problems.Hyd. hard lines were already on stick as well as shut off valves. Now this season customer has been digging and thumb has problems.It will only run cly. out will not return.If I switch lines it returns .Its like I have blockage in lines on right side of stick when sitting in cab.Could it be a valve/ solinoid not opening allowing fuild to return to tank? I have tried another cly. and it does the same. Lines "jump" going both directions with pedal. Any help would be greatly apperciated. thanks,Nate

MR. KOBELCO
04-28-2012, 02:38 PM
Mr Kobelco, I'm new here and looking for some guidance on a Sk135srlc 2004 model S.N Yh03-02414. I installed a aftermarket hyd. thumb for a customer last fall with no problems.Hyd. hard lines were already on stick as well as shut off valves. Now this season customer has been digging and thumb has problems.It will only run cly. out will not return.If I switch lines it returns .Its like I have blockage in lines on right side of stick when sitting in cab.Could it be a valve/ solinoid not opening allowing fuild to return to tank? I have tried another cly. and it does the same. Lines "jump" going both directions with pedal. Any help would be greatly apperciated. thanks,Nate

hi nate,
i'm home right now if you want call me and i can give a couple suggestions
1-905-697-9626
cheers!
adam

mopar2256
04-28-2012, 02:41 PM
hi nate,
i'm home right now if you want call me and i can give a couple suggestions
1-905-697-9626
cheers!
adam

Will do thanks!!!

MR. KOBELCO
04-28-2012, 06:44 PM
Will do thanks!!!

hi nate,
got your msg.
when you get a minute free give me a ring, i do believe your customers machine can be setup and tweaked a bit.
before you ring i'll need the version # on the bottom of scrn no. 1.
if the machine has the latest greatest final version, and is serviced such as replace fuel filter, removing and cleaning of the 2 hidden in-line fuel screens (isuzu),
replacing both the inner and outer air filters and changing the main hyd return filter...
we can then proceed with what i will propose.
you sitting in the cab and i'll give guidance over the phone.
when your customer next operates the 135sr he'll notice an immediate difference - it'll be like a new machine.
cheers
adam

mopar2256
04-29-2012, 11:15 AM
Thanks again Adam I will try and get version# for you today as far as being serviced........... I'll have 2 check with owner..... he's not a wrench turner unless he has too. Nate

MR. KOBELCO
04-29-2012, 01:19 PM
Thanks again Adam I will try and get version# for you today as far as being serviced........... I'll have 2 check with owner..... he's not a wrench turner unless he has too. Nate

hi nate,
sorry one more thing, when you are at machine getting version #, please also page thru using screen change button on display once you are on scrn no. 1,
key on - eng not running need to ensure that all pilot sensors, high prs sensors all nulled = 0.4V & 0k
also the solenoids/propo sol the comp mA & meas mA should be similar values
if some are abnormal readings we need to make corrections before going forward.
cheers
adam

mopar2256
04-29-2012, 01:46 PM
Adam, I'll try to get over there and check it out today and let you know what I find out. thanks again, Nate

happyjack,ms
04-30-2012, 02:07 PM
sk200Lc mark IV serial # YQU3506 looking for a rebuilt or good used piston rod [pn. 2438u1105s2 ] "I think" and seal kit [2438U1105R100] for bucket cylinder. maybe an aftermarket alternative? thanks,

CM1995
04-30-2012, 09:12 PM
Welcome to the Forums happyjack, ms!:drinkup

happyjack,ms
04-30-2012, 09:18 PM
thanks cm.enjoy reading mr. kelbelco's knowledgable post

MR. KOBELCO
05-01-2012, 07:19 PM
sk200Lc mark IV serial # YQU3506 looking for a rebuilt or good used piston rod [pn. 2438u1105s2 ] "I think" and seal kit [2438U1105R100] for bucket cylinder. maybe an aftermarket alternative? thanks,

hi,
the kobelco p/n# you'll need are;
2438U1105R500P, REPAIR SEAL KIT, BUCKET HYD CYL, ROD & PISTON; SK200LC IV, SER# YQU-3101~ - LIST $ 368.18 CAN
2438U1109S14, BUSHING, BUCKET CYL ROD GUIDE BUSHING - LIST $ 111.28 CAN

you can purchase hyd cyl seal kits aftermarket for most of the older kobelco's and other makes, click link provided
http://www.herculescn.com/

a good reputable hyd cyl rebuild shop should be able to get all you'll need to overhaul the hyd cyl - approx avg cost $ 1,500.00 CAN
cyl rod diameter is metric

can also try,
H&R Construction Parts & Equipment Inc.
20 Milburn Street
Buffalo, NY, 14212
United States
PH: (800) 333-0650
ask for BOB WITTMANN
DIRECT LINE: (716) 891-4311 Ext. 4138
bwittmann@hrparts.com
http://www.HRparts.com
they are in the business of parting out hyd exc and take the cores, rebuild/overhaul the units and resell.
they can also put a search out for parts if they do not have
they do offer good used takeoffs on some items too

cheers!
adam

MR. KOBELCO
05-01-2012, 07:24 PM
What is the bucket pin dimensions for a sk235 zero turn? any help would be appreciated.

hi,

distance btwn ears 327 mm
center - center pin spread 442 mm
pin dia 80 mm

cheers!
adam

happyjack,ms
05-01-2012, 10:49 PM
thanks for the infomation mr. kobelco

offthegrid
05-02-2012, 08:18 PM
I have a Kobelco sk200lc mark lll S/N YQU1149 that had a small fire in its belly and burned the pilot hoses, I have a shop manual for a mark 4 that I have been trying to reconnect the hoses with but there are a few differances that dont make sense, for example line A3 on valve 28 under the cab show it connecting to a tee at #Pis. on the bottom of the main valve but my machine only has one fitting there. and top of the valve fitting # PAb in the book shows only one fitting for the boom but mine has 4 any diagrams or advice would be welcome.
Bob

MR. KOBELCO
05-03-2012, 06:40 AM
I have a Kobelco sk200lc mark lll S/N YQU1149 that had a small fire in its belly and burned the pilot hoses, I have a shop manual for a mark 4 that I have been trying to reconnect the hoses with but there are a few differances that dont make sense, for example line A3 on valve 28 under the cab show it connecting to a tee at #Pis. on the bottom of the main valve but my machine only has one fitting there. and top of the valve fitting # PAb in the book shows only one fitting for the boom but mine has 4 any diagrams or advice would be welcome.
Bob

hi bob,
please e-mail me directly @ " hf_hydraulics@hotmail.com "
i can send reply with scanned copies of the remote pilot hose routing and it will also help you along if you also reference the online parts catalog sections
which are applicable to your machine and its factory options it is equipped with.
cheers!
adam

StumpyWally
05-03-2012, 10:47 AM
Mr. Kobelco:

What are the OEM bucket pin mount specs for a 2005 New Holland EH80 CS, s/n N5TA18019 (a Kobelco E80 CS, machine # LF04-02072)? That is:
Pin Diameter= ? mm
Pin Center-to-Center= ? mm
Pin Mount Face-to-Face= ? mm

Where can one find such info on different machines? Is there any kind of compiled list?

MR. KOBELCO
05-03-2012, 12:24 PM
Mr. Kobelco:

What are the OEM bucket pin mount specs for a 2005 New Holland EH80 CS, s/n N5TA18019 (a Kobelco E80 CS, machine # LF04-02072)? That is:
Pin Diameter= ? mm
Pin Center-to-Center= ? mm
Pin Mount Face-to-Face= ? mm

Where can one find such info on different machines? Is there any kind of compiled list?

hi,
Pin Diameter= 50 mm
Pin Center-to-Center= 298 mm
Pin Mount Face-to-Face= 182 mm

this info originates from the manufacturer
it is not advisable to go by the shop repair manuals - for these dimensions are region specific.
the above # are NA specs for a 70sr/80cs
any kobelco dealership has access to their range of models they sell
any attachment manufacturer would have the ultimate compiled library, assembled over years
cheers
adam

diggerbob416
05-03-2012, 04:25 PM
Mr. Kobelco, we have a Kobelco SK120 Mark III serial number LP09922. We are pretty sure its a grey iron machine purchased from an auction. I am looking for a readable wiring schematic, also the valve lash settings. Please reply as soon as possible to Bmeltner@yahoo.com. Thanks Bob

MR. KOBELCO
05-03-2012, 05:06 PM
Mr. Kobelco, we have a Kobelco SK120 Mark III serial number LP09922. We are pretty sure its a grey iron machine purchased from an auction. I am looking for a readable wiring schematic, also the valve lash settings. Please reply as soon as possible to Bmeltner@yahoo.com. Thanks Bob

hi,
at 1st glance it does appear to be grey mrkt.
i need you to also provide me the eng manu., eng ser# and if it has a turbo too.
i'll see what i can do
adam

kp100
05-04-2012, 07:09 AM
Well I thought I would post a further update to my SK60 electrical ghost. The service wrench screen had been showing up and after extensive checking of wire harnesses and connections nothing. All of a sudden the screen returned to normal and still no clue as to why. Then it happened again and this time while playing with the ignition switch the screen returned to normal. Thought we had solved the mystery being a bad key switch.
Well after 120 hours of working perfect the service screen shows up. Not the key switch I guess.
Now have a pattern. Originally when it started to work again it happened as I had started the machine and let it idle for 10 minutes. Then when I engaged the hydraulics the auto idle green light came on. Wrench still on screen. Shut the machine off and upon restarting all functions normal. Worked for 120 hours.
Now upon turning the key to the on position there is no green lights. First sign there is a problem. Then the wrench appears upon starting. Now after letting the machine run for 10 minutes, and it doesn't matter if it is idling or working, the auto idle green light comes on upon idling the machine. Shut the key off and then restart and all 4 green lights activate and the wrench screen is gone. It now has done this 6 time in a row for the last 25 hours.
????????????? Suggestions???

Larry_57
05-05-2012, 12:00 PM
I'm looking for a oil cooler radiator for a Kobelco 150 Mark VI. The serial number is YMU1304. The number that I have is YMO5PU00025002 (for the radiator). Are there any other makes/and or models that would fit this unit? Any information where I can find one is greatly appreciated. Question number two is regarding the throttle on the same unit. I have had the stepping motor apart and it doesn't seem to be "in time" or something. It fluctuates. The computer has quit working. Could there be a connection? Thanks so much for any response.

MR. KOBELCO
05-06-2012, 10:54 AM
I'm looking for a oil cooler radiator for a Kobelco 150 Mark VI. The serial number is YMU1304. The number that I have is YMO5PU00025002 (for the radiator). Are there any other makes/and or models that would fit this unit? Any information where I can find one is greatly appreciated. Question number two is regarding the throttle on the same unit. I have had the stepping motor apart and it doesn't seem to be "in time" or something. It fluctuates. The computer has quit working. Could there be a connection? Thanks so much for any response.

hi,
yes the part# YM05PU0002S002 is approx $ 4,000.00 can (new).
this is also fitted in kob ED180 mark IV
if you do not want to pay this much for new part you can try H&R Const Parts @ 1-800-333-0650.
as far as for the throttle, the stepper mtr should never be taken apart, kob does sell repair kits but we have had no luck fitting them for the s/m clearances are too tight.
no room for error. you just replace with new. the fluctuating could be a result of shorted wiring and such. short in the limit switch wiring circuit or even with the coils A or B of the s/m
the wiring to the s/m is also shielded and the shield should only be grounded at the one end which will usually be at the cpu grounding thru the cpu pcb.
if you have had the key on s/m powered up and have forced the s/m lever moving it to open up the fuel it is likely you have fried the s/m servo chip in the cpu.
and generally this means you'll need to purchase a new c-1 cpu mechatro-controller as well as a new stepper mtr.
send me an e-mail directly to " hf_hydraulics@hotmail.com ".
cheers
adam

diggerbob416
05-07-2012, 01:18 PM
only ser no I can find is stamped on the right side of block 220365. It is an ISUZU TURBO Turbo no isTD04H-156-8.5

Thanks Bob

joperdasal
05-10-2012, 11:37 PM
mr. kobelco,
i have a problem with the arm of excavator sk 200 mark 5,,it cannot extend fully and the sound of the engine seems overload.can you help me please.. Thanks.

willie59
05-10-2012, 11:40 PM
Welcome to the forum joperdasal. :usa

Post your machine serial number, it's important as well. :)

JGS Parts
05-11-2012, 01:38 AM
G'day iam chasing a Sk220-3 Super , Computer schematics if anyone has them serial number of the machine LQO-03089

MR. KOBELCO
05-11-2012, 12:37 PM
mr. kobelco,
i have a problem with the arm of excavator sk 200 mark 5,,it cannot extend fully and the sound of the engine seems overload.can you help me please.. Thanks.

hi,
3 things,
1 - i do as mentioned need your serial number of the machine.
2 - are you talking the arm cyl on top the boom - highest point ?
when you say extend out are you describing the arm itself as arm out, stretched out or
are you talking about the arm cyl extending which would be the arm moving in towards the cab ?
3 - please e-mail me directly at " hf_hydraulics@hotmail.com "
thx
adam

MR. KOBELCO
05-11-2012, 12:41 PM
G'day iam chasing a Sk220-3 Super , Computer schematics if anyone has them serial number of the machine LQO-03089

g'day to you too!
you say computer schematics or do you mean electrical wiring schematics - electrical components and wiring harnesses ?
model and ser# helps, thanks
but please e-mail me at " hf_hydraulics@hotmail.com as well.
i can see what i can dig up.
cheers
adam

JGS Parts
05-11-2012, 01:34 PM
Thanks heaps Adam mate sent you an email

VENT MOBILE
05-12-2012, 06:56 AM
Hi I'm looking for some info on a sk200 mark iv I do an attune and it comes up condition error and is low on revs and hydraulic power also the owner boost button won't work please help
G-1 current - NG g-2 s/pt.error these were some codes and I have repaired the broken loom to step motor please help
My email is vaughanmarsh@hotmail.com
I appreciate ur time
Yn-20453 sk200 mark IV

VENT MOBILE
05-12-2012, 07:04 AM
Hi I'm looking for some info on a sk200 mark iv I do an attune and it comes up condition error and is low on revs and hydraulic power also the owner boost button won't work please help
G-1 current - NG g-2 s/pt.error these were some codes and I have repaired the broken loom to step motor please help
My email is vaughanmarsh@hotmail.com
I appreciate ur time
Yn-20453 sk200 mark IV

MR. KOBELCO
05-13-2012, 02:03 PM
Hi I'm looking for some info on a sk200 mark iv I do an attune and it comes up condition error and is low on revs and hydraulic power also the owner boost button won't work please help
G-1 current - NG g-2 s/pt.error these were some codes and I have repaired the broken loom to step motor please help
My email is vaughanmarsh@hotmail.com
I appreciate ur time
Yn-20453 sk200 mark IV

hi,
i have responded to you, i need an answer on the engine as well as i need a few photos taken too - please check both your hef private e-mail as well as your hotmail e-mail. i have provided you a link on the hotmail
cheers!
adam

joperdasal
05-16-2012, 01:28 PM
The serial no. of the excavator Mr. Kobelco is YN-28081.mark 5 sk 200.If the arm extend fully against the cab, the engine sounds overloaded,and the breaker is also not operational unless i engaged the control for boom,the bucket and the arm lever,.does it affect the performance if the monitor and the control is no longer operational,?Thanks for the help sir.

joperdasal
05-16-2012, 01:34 PM
The serial no. of the excavator Mr. Kobelco is YN-28081.mark 5 sk 200.If the arm extend fully against the cab, the engine sounds overloaded,and the breaker is also not operational unless i engaged the control for boom,the bucket and the arm lever,.does it affect the performance if the monitor and the control is no longer operational,?Thanks for the help sir.

Van Koop
05-18-2012, 01:02 AM
Hey Kevin "kp100" , after three months of the check wrench screen I noticed the auto decel light on. Turn machine off and restarted , gauges work fine again. I'm puzzled. I had Tonys "doc3"guy out to trouble shoot it and he couldn't find anything either. It seems to only act up when the weather is wet and it sits for a couple of weeks. Oh well I put a mechanical temperature gauge in it so at least if it does act up again I don't have to worry about cookin the engine.

kp100
05-18-2012, 07:48 AM
That's exactly what mine is doing. Wet doesn't seem to be an issue but sitting is. Wrench screen is there on start up and after 8-15 minutes the auto idle light will come on. Shut down the engine and resart and everything works with the wrench screen gone. Works all day every time you start it up until it sits again.

My mechanic believes that it is the A adjustment for the steper motor that needs to be calibrated. Problem the engine speed sensor is not working and a new one is $440. So I have to spend $440 first and if that doesn't fix the problem I am out that much. He needs that tach reading to do the calibration. Kobelco won't help by supplying the sensor first and only pay if it solves the problem. Sure makes me miss my Cat. People can say all they want about expensive repairs from cat they want. They just havn't dealt with Kobelco yet.

MR. KOBELCO
05-18-2012, 09:09 AM
That's exactly what mine is doing. Wet doesn't seem to be an issue but sitting is. Wrench screen is there on start up and after 8-15 minutes the auto idle light will come on. Shut down the engine and resart and everything works with the wrench screen gone. Works all day every time you start it up until it sits again.

My mechanic believes that it is the A adjustment for the steper motor that needs to be calibrated. Problem the engine speed sensor is not working and a new one is $440. So I have to spend $440 first and if that doesn't fix the problem I am out that much. He needs that tach reading to do the calibration. Kobelco won't help by supplying the sensor first and only pay if it solves the problem. Sure makes me miss my Cat. People can say all they want about expensive repairs from cat they want. They just havn't dealt with Kobelco yet.

hi,
the engine rpm sensor is required,
it tells the cpu that your eng is running.
it also is used in the hp calc and fig hyd pump flows
i do not believe you called us for a quote ?
like all other dealerships there are no returns on electrical components
if your display is not reading an rpm, check your shielded eng rpm sensor wiring 1st
could be a broken wire?
worst case could need a new main c-1 cpu
adam

MR. KOBELCO
05-18-2012, 09:23 AM
Hey Kevin "kp100" , after three months of the check wrench screen I noticed the auto decel light on. Turn machine off and restarted , gauges work fine again. I'm puzzled. I had Tonys "doc3"guy out to trouble shoot it and he couldn't find anything either. It seems to only act up when the weather is wet and it sits for a couple of weeks. Oh well I put a mechanical temperature gauge in it so at least if it does act up again I don't have to worry about cookin the engine.

hi, van koop and kp100
i dug deep in my memory,
i recalled having a mark iv model where the check wrench was coming on
there's a wiring harness runs under cab,
cannot get at enclosed in frame
i had mechanic put a rubber mat under harness and check wrench never did come up again.
keep in mind unless you remove the whole harness out of machine and go over it inch by inch
you can miss the hidden areas, hard to access
at times its not worth it just replace complete harness and resolves the issue.
adam

MR. KOBELCO
05-18-2012, 09:38 AM
please note,
an engine rpm sensor just does not provide a tach readout the c-1 cpu needs this value to control the hyd pumps and keep the engine rpm up
hp control
there is a procedure on how-to install properly and setup
this setting is specific to the engine
setting rpm sensor is done by adjusting to achieve an A/C voltage with a digital multi-tester connected to the rpm sensor leads (sensor cannot be connected to harness
some engines you set for A/C voltage at lo-idle and not to exceed X A/C volts at hi-idle
mitsi engine 9 - 11 vac at lo-idle
cummins eng 3 vac at lo-idle & no more than 6 vac at hi-idle
isuzu eng 1.3 vac at lo-idle & no more than 3 vac at hi idle
these are general rules must verify when purchasing an eng rpm sensor
i will usually include this info along with the sale
adam

Van Koop
05-18-2012, 09:53 AM
I did the "A" adjustment last summer and it didn't make a difference. It did however pick up a few rpm. I put the new key switch in.Our problems are exactly the same!I can't see it being an rpm sensor.I have cleaned connections and checked the harnesses all over.The only reason why I say when it's wet is because it usually is good all summer.I know it has nothing to do with the c-1 or c-2 , because I've changed them both.I have also put in new batterys. I might try a new altenater because the the only thing out of spec at the c-2 was the charge signal was 29 volts. I don't mind buying parts , if that's the problem. But if you get the kobelco service truck out and start paying $120 an hour!You would think they would know how to trouble shoot the root of the problem. If only we could get Adam in the service truck and not the 20 year old kid that's learning they always send.

MR. KOBELCO
05-18-2012, 10:51 AM
The serial no. of the excavator Mr. Kobelco is YN-28081.mark 5 sk 200.If the arm extend fully against the cab, the engine sounds overloaded,and the breaker is also not operational unless i engaged the control for boom,the bucket and the arm lever,.does it affect the performance if the monitor and the control is no longer operational,?Thanks for the help sir.

hi,
the monitor is important to be able to look into the machine maint screens to check sensors, solenoids, proportional solenoids, engine rpm sensor, etc...
otherwise we are blindly troubleshooting and will be guessing and end up just throwing un-needed parts on the machine.
the control not working - do you mean the computer or joystick functions ?
as far as the breaker not working - it sounds like the sensor for the breaker is inop and should be replaced for it is not telling the computer to turn on the pump

please send me an e-mail direct to " hf_hydraulics@hotmail.com "

adam

kp100
05-18-2012, 12:36 PM
The mechanic checked the screen diagnostics and the computer showed an engine rpm of 2310. The sensor on the flywheel had no wires connected to it. He figured it was using a stored value to function. That must be the reading the screen was showing. I have tried to find an isuzu price as this engine is used in an Hitachi and Case 9007B but none of those units came with engine rpm sensors. Kobelco was the only one who wanted a rpm sensor on that engine. Thats what they tell me.
It just seems strange that the wrench screen never comes on during operation. It either works when first started or it doesn't. That pretty much rules out an ongoing short if you ask me. It has to be a fault that shows up just on starting. Some function the computer goes through on the key turn and when it gets 1 bad reading from this mystery source we have the wrench.
machine has sat for 3 days and started today with all functions normal. I appreciate your help Adam but Cat would not ever leave my place with out solving something like this and if they couldn't they immediately would get answers from Cat Help and be back in a day. The bill wouldn't be ongoing. It would reflect the cost the repair as it should have been. Not just keep paying and guessing.

Van Koop
05-18-2012, 12:51 PM
My rpm sensor works fine on the screen now that the check wrench is gone. I totally agree with you that it has to be something going , or not going to the c2 that it doesn't like. If the dealer would gaurrenty that the new harness would fix it I would do it. But they won't. I need to know what all the values resistence coming into the c2 are. Then when it acts up again I could compare. I know I've got power and grounds, but the other stuff there's no way of knowing.

MR. KOBELCO
05-18-2012, 01:05 PM
The mechanic checked the screen diagnostics and the computer showed an engine rpm of 2310. The sensor on the flywheel had no wires connected to it. He figured it was using a stored value to function. That must be the reading the screen was showing. I have tried to find an isuzu price as this engine is used in an Hitachi and Case 9007B but none of those units came with engine rpm sensors. Kobelco was the only one who wanted a rpm sensor on that engine. Thats what they tell me.
It just seems strange that the wrench screen never comes on during operation. It either works when first started or it doesn't. That pretty much rules out an ongoing short if you ask me. It has to be a fault that shows up just on starting. Some function the computer goes through on the key turn and when it gets 1 bad reading from this mystery source we have the wrench.
machine has sat for 3 days and started today with all functions normal. I appreciate your help Adam but Cat would not ever leave my place with out solving something like this and if they couldn't they immediately would get answers from Cat Help and be back in a day. The bill wouldn't be ongoing. It would reflect the cost the repair as it should have been. Not just keep paying and guessing.

hi,
in the servicemans maint screens when you access it, engine off, go-to screen with rpm
the first # is computer set target
the 2nd # is the measure off the rpm sensor
if the wires are indeed broke off and the measure reads that value
simply disconnect the shielded rpm wiring harness at the main cpu
if still reads this meas value with engine off
the cpu needs replacing
if value goes away check your wiring or run a new set for rpm sensor
no remember the rpm sensor harness is shielded
usually the shield is grounded thru the cpu
the end by sensor stays open
i would suspect that the harness is shorted to itself or into a power
adam

MR. KOBELCO
05-18-2012, 01:12 PM
My rpm sensor works fine on the screen now that the check wrench is gone. I totally agree with you that it has to be something going , or not going to the c2 that it doesn't like. If the dealer would gaurrenty that the new harness would fix it I would do it. But they won't. I need to know what all the values resistence coming into the c2 are. Then when it acts up again I could compare. I know I've got power and grounds, but the other stuff there's no way of knowing.

hi,
they do not give to much on that kind of thing, but u do have a harness checker kit ?
did they include those values in the pages ?
adam

MR. KOBELCO
05-18-2012, 01:16 PM
I did the "A" adjustment last summer and it didn't make a difference. It did however pick up a few rpm. I put the new key switch in.Our problems are exactly the same!I can't see it being an rpm sensor.I have cleaned connections and checked the harnesses all over.The only reason why I say when it's wet is because it usually is good all summer.I know it has nothing to do with the c-1 or c-2 , because I've changed them both.I have also put in new batterys. I might try a new altenater because the the only thing out of spec at the c-2 was the charge signal was 29 volts. I don't mind buying parts , if that's the problem. But if you get the kobelco service truck out and start paying $120 an hour!You would think they would know how to trouble shoot the root of the problem. If only we could get Adam in the service truck and not the 20 year old kid that's learning they always send.

hey, i would be interested.
i have my own side buz. i charge $80.00/hr, tnt & labour, but i think the travel time would kill ya. lol

Van Koop
05-18-2012, 05:24 PM
hey, i would be interested.
i have my own side buz. i charge $80.00/hr, tnt & labour, but i think the travel time would kill ya. lol

Hey Adam would a westcoast fishing trip would cut down the travel time?

MR. KOBELCO
05-18-2012, 07:33 PM
Hey Adam would a westcoast fishing trip would cut down the travel time?

hey that sounds good to me - i'm sure we could work out something fair.
:)

StumpyWally
05-21-2012, 04:38 PM
Mr. Kobelco...The auto-idle down on my excavator just stopped working. All power & operation still good, & no warning lights or icons on the control panel. Got any ideas how I fix this??
My machine is a 2005 New Holland EH80 CS s/n N5TA18019 (Kobelco machine # LF04-02072), Izuzu engine # CC4JG1-272608. Do you have access to the shop or service manual in an electronic form that you could send me, along with any specific help??
StumpWally

MR. KOBELCO
05-21-2012, 07:15 PM
Mr. Kobelco...The auto-idle down on my excavator just stopped working. All power & operation still good, & no warning lights or icons on the control panel. Got any ideas how I fix this??
My machine is a 2005 New Holland EH80 CS s/n N5TA18019 (Kobelco machine # LF04-02072), Izuzu engine # CC4JG1-272608. Do you have access to the shop or service manual in an electronic form that you could send me, along with any specific help??
StumpWally

hi,
when i get to work tomorrow - tuesday - i'll scan you the elec schem.
could be the rpm maint conn to disable the auto-decel wire is grounding out or the auto-decel sw if in cab is turned off ?
possible that one of the pilot sensors is reading improperly keeping rpm up ?
does it decel with the lever lock up ?
adam

PANDPDEMOLITION
05-22-2012, 03:58 PM
I have a kobelco SK150 that the stick out function will not work. all other function work just fine! any ideas ????:Banghead

MR. KOBELCO
05-22-2012, 04:29 PM
I have a kobelco SK150 that the stick out function will not work. all other function work just fine! any ideas ????:Banghead

hi, i am quite sure that i'll be able to offer guidance. however, i will need your serial number YM- or YMU-
now when you say arm out does not work,...
does it even attempt to move ?
is the stick all the way crowded in to the cab and will not move out
has the stick been drifting on you beforehand
i'll need to figure out how this progressed or did it just immediately happen out of the blue ?
thx
adam

PANDPDEMOLITION
05-22-2012, 05:07 PM
Hi,
on the sk150 the ymu-1142 and yes some times the arm will move but not a lot !!! It was crowded up to the cab but i have got it to go out some.
And yes it did just start out of no were. we had a control block put in all worked fine and then just stoped.
Thanks, P AND P DEMOLITION

MR. KOBELCO
05-22-2012, 06:11 PM
Hi,
on the sk150 the ymu-1142 and yes some times the arm will move but not a lot !!! It was crowded up to the cab but i have got it to go out some.
And yes it did just start out of no were. we had a control block put in all worked fine and then just stoped.
Thanks, P AND P DEMOLITION

hi,
1) this control block, is it an add-on for aux hydrs or a component used in the machine that was just replaced ?
2) do you have the means to check for hyd bypassing in the arm cylinder past the piston ?
since the arm cyl rod is extended out all the way, are u able to remove the rod side hose, on top of boom or easier down by the boom foot pin, cap the hyd tube off
from the main hyd c/v, then holding hose in a 5 gal pail, run the arm in function and measure how much oil exits the hose into
the pail ?
3) depending on above it might be easier to phone me either at work or home after hours to discuss
home# 905-697-9626
work# 905-888-9070
adam

joperdasal
05-25-2012, 04:42 AM
hi mr. kobelco
error code two speed solenoid
and power boost solenoid appeared in the monitor, what does it mean?
Mark 5 sk 200 yn 002801.thanks in advance for the help.

joperdasal
05-25-2012, 05:13 AM
Hi Sir Adam,
The control in the computer i mean sir.but now that i fixed the computer,the monitor displayed power boost solenoid and two speed solenoid as an error,i have no idea what these error means.Thanks in advance for the help sir.!

MR. KOBELCO
05-25-2012, 08:01 AM
Hi Sir Adam,
hi mr. kobelco
error code two speed solenoid
and power boost solenoid appeared in the monitor, what does it mean?
Mark 5 sk 200 yn 002801.thanks in advance for the help.
The control in the computer i mean sir.but now that i fixed the computer,the monitor displayed power boost solenoid and two speed solenoid as an error,i have no idea what these error means.Thanks in advance for the help sir.!

hi,
either the computer is not totally fixed, or...
the machine has self diagnostics,
there is either a loose connection, broken wire(s) or shorted wires to machine frame grounding out within the wiring harness to these 2 solenoid valves.
or just simply you've fixed the computer and its now showing the fault codes it could not before and these 2 solenoid valves coils are burnt out.
first thing i would recommend is to locate them, disconnect them from harness and using a digital multi-tester check the resistance of the coil
should be between 17 - 25 ohms.
cheers
adam

sas401
05-25-2012, 10:15 AM
Hi,
I am looking for a Workshop manual for a Kobelco SK50UR. Can anyone help?
Thanks

MR. KOBELCO
05-25-2012, 11:17 AM
Hi,
I am looking for a Workshop manual for a Kobelco SK50UR. Can anyone help?
Thanks

hi,
i would give this gent a try. he says he has. let me know how your transaction went.
cheers!
adam
http://sudoremont.com.ua/english/katalog/kobelco/kob-03.htm

sas401
05-25-2012, 01:24 PM
hi,
i would give this gent a try. he says he has. let me know how your transaction went.
cheers!
adam
http://sudoremont.com.ua/english/katalog/kobelco/kob-03.htm

Many thanks! I will give him a try now, will let you know how I get on!

joperdasal
05-26-2012, 05:10 AM
hi sir adam,
i did resistance measurement test and it reads 36.4 ohms for both solenoids,, i just noticed that the number from the parts catalog is different from the one that is in the machine. the part catalog writes kwe5k-30 while the solenoid that is in the machine is kwe5k-31.Is there any significant ?what conclusion should i draw then if it reads higher than the one you are quoting..thank again sir...

StumpyWally
05-27-2012, 07:26 AM
Adam:
Thanks for the schematic...but when you mentioned the "auto-decel sw if in the cab..." I remembered that I do have such a switch. Turns out that that I must have turned it off by hitting it inadvertently...so, once I turned it back on, problem solved!! Thanks.
I tend to forget about that switch, because my intent is to always have auto-decel on. I love that function. I can't imagine why anyone would ever want it off. Any input on that...?

PANDPDEMOLITION
05-28-2012, 12:19 AM
Thank you so much for the help. We got it back up and running!!!! Have a great weekend!!!!!
Brandon,
P AND P DEMOLITION

erdelyi72
05-28-2012, 01:38 PM
Hello,

we have a problem with our nice SK210-LC6 machine. The error code is : "F2- swingbrake solenoid".
The excavator is working, but the error always comes up.
I found an answer regarding this problem in this forum, but I think it was a different version of machine.
I tried to identify the solenoid, but I didn't find the right one on the manifold where the other solenoids located.
We tried to disconnect the solenoid cables one by one and produced different kind of solenoid errors as we expect. The only exception
was the first solenoid in the row, when the error remained the same. For me, it means, this is the defective solenoid, but
I'm not sure, this theory is right. Could somebody help me to troubleshoot this issue?

Thanks in advance,
Robert from Hungary

rushman
05-29-2012, 07:04 PM
G'day Mr Kobelco,
We have bought here recently a pretty beat up, used Kobelco k909 LCII excavator and noticed when we bought it, that one of the boom cylinder had a doubler plate installed on the side of the piston probably due to a leak or a bad weld...4 weeks ago the said plate begun to leak by one of the welds; we grinded the weld to expose the crack and made 2 pass of 7018 on the leaky spot; the repair held ...for about ...4 weeks! And now another of the doubler's original weld began to leak (to be noted it is not the repaired weld that broke but the one on the opposite side ...) Now we here would like to know a couple of things 1st i know that usually welds on hi-pressure hydraulic system are to be avoided but will this doubler start leaking side after side as we repair it or will once all the sides repaired, thoroughtly and deeply welded will this hold ( i was told that a doubler plate on a cylinder was a receipe for disaster due to pressure building under the plate and the piston?!?) or will it still crumble at the same beat even if repaired...? Other thing if another mean to repair a broken cylinder is available for example milling out a piece of the cylinder to shorten it and then add a coupon to restaure it to the original length... Anyhow, any hint would be appreciated

Kobe130
05-31-2012, 01:27 AM
Experienced Kobelco hands I need your help on this one. Finally sorted out my travel problem. Minimal travel on right side. Watched pressure gauge on right side go from 1500 psi to zero while I yarded on the control doing stall test. Now no travel at all. Swapped travel relief valves and problem swapped sides. Bought new springs lo and behold when I pulled the TRV 1 and 2 apart could find no problem. Reassembled, installed - adjusted stalled pressure up to 5000 psi both sides now and travel works just fine. Something stuck in one valve maybe? Didn't see it. Pumps and traction motors A-OK. However, swing still slower than molasses in Jan. Secondary pilot pressure is 700 psi on both sides of swing control valve (early style YPU 2328 machine). Swings in both directions (no unusual noise from swing motor just smooth and slow), speed picks up substantially when arm extended at same time. Main spool in swing control valve moves freely. The manual talks about a swing relief valve but I'll be darned if I can identify it. Is it in the main control valve or is it called something else (swing port relief valve) in the (fairly simple) swing control valve? Haven't checked main pressure to swing control valve yet (looks like at stall it should be 4000 psi). I thought I'd ask the experts before I pull the swing control valve and completely disassemble unnecessarily. Are there other valves that are implicated in this problem? Thanks guys for your thoughts.

grandkobelco
05-31-2012, 06:35 AM
Did this problem start after your repair on the travel relief valves? Is it possible that you have pilot lines mixed up? Since your left track works fine and your arm works fine you can rule out P2 pump, Since the swing works when you arm you can probly rule out swing controll valve. Your not turning on the P2 pump when you swing only. I don't have a hyd sch in front of me now but i can look at one later today.

Kobe130
05-31-2012, 12:08 PM
Did this problem start after your repair on the travel relief valves? Is it possible that you have pilot lines mixed up? Since your left track works fine and your arm works fine you can rule out P2 pump, Since the swing works when you arm you can probly rule out swing controll valve. Your not turning on the P2 pump when you swing only. I don't have a hyd sch in front of me now but i can look at one later today.

Thx GrandKobelco, pretty sure the pilots are not mixed up as the way they sit it would be difficult to do. This problem existed before I did any work on the TRVs. When I took delivery of the machine it had very slow swing and very weak right side traction. Traction both sides is now strong. I see from the manual (which points now directly to the "swing relief valve") there are a couple of "valves" in the swing control valve which I could investigate. Still wondering where the SRV is. The service manual talks about it but doesn't show it. Thx.

MR. KOBELCO
05-31-2012, 01:00 PM
hi sir adam,
i did resistance measurement test and it reads 36.4 ohms for both solenoids,, i just noticed that the number from the parts catalog is different from the one that is in the machine. the part catalog writes kwe5k-30 while the solenoid that is in the machine is kwe5k-31.Is there any significant ?what conclusion should i draw then if it reads higher than the one you are quoting..thank again sir...

hi,
sorry, i was not recv'g e-mails on new posts.
i refreshed myself on your posts, i would advise that if the electrical connectors are identical on the solenoids, for troubleshooting purposes just simply swap a harness off a solenoid that is not giving a fault code and once swapped see which fault codes display. theoritically the fault code should change if the solenoid is bad. if not and same fault remains its either poor connection issue, wiring or your computer you had fixed is not fixed 100%.
just be sure to put back the way it was afterwards.
cheers
adam

MR. KOBELCO
05-31-2012, 01:06 PM
Adam:
Thanks for the schematic...but when you mentioned the "auto-decel sw if in the cab..." I remembered that I do have such a switch. Turns out that that I must have turned it off by hitting it inadvertently...so, once I turned it back on, problem solved!! Thanks.
I tend to forget about that switch, because my intent is to always have auto-decel on. I love that function. I can't imagine why anyone would ever want it off. Any input on that...?

hi,
at times you may want the eng idle to remain high, such as if craning a heavy load. for if eng does decel when resuming to lift the load it could possibly drop before the boom or arm begins to rise.
keeping eng rpm up high ensures a higher gpm in the neutral circuit flooding the lines.
sorry if this does not make sense. hard to explain today.

MR. KOBELCO
05-31-2012, 01:26 PM
Hello,

we have a problem with our nice SK210-LC6 machine. The error code is : "F2- swingbrake solenoid".
The excavator is working, but the error always comes up.
I found an answer regarding this problem in this forum, but I think it was a different version of machine.
I tried to identify the solenoid, but I didn't find the right one on the manifold where the other solenoids located.
We tried to disconnect the solenoid cables one by one and produced different kind of solenoid errors as we expect. The only exception
was the first solenoid in the row, when the error remained the same. For me, it means, this is the defective solenoid, but
I'm not sure, this theory is right. Could somebody help me to troubleshoot this issue?

Thanks in advance,
Robert from Hungary

hi robert,
the usual is one manifold with 8 solenoids, middle 4 are psv the outside 2 on each end are on/off solenoids.
the swing brake solenoid is the hardest one to reach and only one spool wise different from the rest.
position A8 the end one nearest center of machine.
the 1st one A1 (SV-4) closest to outside of machine is the pilot lever lock sol/v which does not have a fault code programmed in the computer to display.
with that one simply if all your functions cease the sol/v for pilot oil feed to joysticks, pedals and such is burnt out.
since the swing brake sol is likely burnt - usually first to go for cycles the most times of any of them - gets more use,
when you disconnect harness to # A8 sol/v wire is tagged " SV-1 "
the fault code will remain unchanged for the coil is burnt out acting like a disconnected circuit.
hope this helps
cheers
adam

MR. KOBELCO
05-31-2012, 01:45 PM
G'day Mr Kobelco,
We have bought here recently a pretty beat up, used Kobelco k909 LCII excavator and noticed when we bought it, that one of the boom cylinder had a doubler plate installed on the side of the piston probably due to a leak or a bad weld...4 weeks ago the said plate begun to leak by one of the welds; we grinded the weld to expose the crack and made 2 pass of 7018 on the leaky spot; the repair held ...for about ...4 weeks! And now another of the doubler's original weld began to leak (to be noted it is not the repaired weld that broke but the one on the opposite side ...) Now we here would like to know a couple of things 1st i know that usually welds on hi-pressure hydraulic system are to be avoided but will this doubler start leaking side after side as we repair it or will once all the sides repaired, thoroughtly and deeply welded will this hold ( i was told that a doubler plate on a cylinder was a receipe for disaster due to pressure building under the plate and the piston?!?) or will it still crumble at the same beat even if repaired...? Other thing if another mean to repair a broken cylinder is available for example milling out a piece of the cylinder to shorten it and then add a coupon to restaure it to the original length... Anyhow, any hint would be appreciated

hi,
to be quite honest with you i do not recommend weld repairs on hyd tubes, cyls, etc...
for once the oil gets into the crack it will never be the same.
especially if its still mounted to the machine.
result in injuries or if not disconnecting the main battery ground, fry harnesses computers etc...
any hyd cyls we get done i have sent out to the best in the biz
if it needs it its done, otherwise we are taking on a liability.
say the weld lets go and the boom comes down killing somebody, businesses have been shutdown for less!
it sounds like you need either a new metric barrel or gland, etc...
i highly recommend
MANN MACHINES & HYDRAULICS LTD.
245 ADVANCE BLVD.
BRAMPTON, ON, L6T 4J2
Canada
KULDIP MANN
tel: (905) 488-6266
mob: (416) 899-6266
http://www.mannhydraulics.com/

to-date i have had no come backs
cheers
adam

MR. KOBELCO
05-31-2012, 02:06 PM
Thx GrandKobelco, pretty sure the pilots are not mixed up as the way they sit it would be difficult to do. This problem existed before I did any work on the TRVs. When I took delivery of the machine it had very slow swing and very weak right side traction. Traction both sides is now strong. I see from the manual (which points now directly to the "swing relief valve") there are a couple of "valves" in the swing control valve which I could investigate. Still wondering where the SRV is. The service manual talks about it but doesn't show it. Thx.

hi,
the swing reliefs are on the hyd swing mtr control valve itself.
i am going with grandkobelco on this one, it seems that your p2 pump is not turning on.
you can verify this by teeing into the pilot hose for the pi2 line at the hyd pump regulator valve.
use a 1,000 psi hyd prs gauge.
the prs will read high 400 - 600 psi say
when you use the swing controls this prs should drop off which causes the p2 oil flow to rise.
if prs does not drop off then its likely that one of the shuttles in the main c/v is leaking off the signal which would be required to shift the p2 bypass cut spool.
a second possible cause could be that a shuttle ball is missing in the pilot lines around the swing hyd mtr - see online parts catalogue remote pilot lines for the locations of these balls
or i have had before one pilot line being joined to the wrong connection on a teed fitting at the swing mtr area and the signal was not being routed to the port in the c/v to shift the p2 bypass cut spool.
i would first trace all your pilot lines verifying, see balls are in place and have not been lost and can watch your progress with tee gauge at pi2.
now i do have one question,
when you swing does the swing flasher led on the cab dash display light up as soon as you give movement on the joystick ?
this led should lite immediately.
reason i ask, one of the teed fitting assy has a long spring and ball, it is adjustable but should not bee tampered with.
its very sensitive. if this has been fooled with and lite is not immediate this could be why your swing is slow for pump will not turn on.
only when you move the arm signal comes from the opposite direction on this same tee.
adam

StumpyWally
05-31-2012, 04:41 PM
Adam:
I understand...thank you for the explanation.
Tom

gregor1978
05-31-2012, 05:47 PM
Hello,

I would be glad for good advise because this will eat my nervs...

Problem is with Kobelco SK200 mark 3.

The problem is that Boom does not have the speed like it should and also the power. When oil is cold the speed is there and power also. But when I heat the oil realy good speed bacomes extremely slow and power is poor. Sometimes You can not lift full bucket. When You quicly several times engage other comand the boom performance goes little better. The engine do not feal the heavy lift. Like all oil was leaking somwhere....

I have check pressures and both pumps works on 270 bar max, checked also prop. valve for power shift and prop. valve for boom speed - both are o.k..

I have measured both negative control signals ( 48 bar at full engine speed). From that signal I saw that Boom conflux works ( both pumps engaged for boom lifting- pi1,2=0 bar).

Bucket is strong ( just sometimes happens that opening of the bucked wait for half second when You give command), arm is strong and fast.

I notice that for arm extending( closing arm cylinder) both pumps are combined, but for arm digging ( opening cylinder) under heavy load only one pump works ( travel priority is not engage for combining two pumps?) and it negative signal pi2 is jumping fast from 45 to 20 bar - strange - here I suspect ARM SQUENCE VALVE or filter on pilot or travel priority valve but I think it has nothing to do with boom.

For the boom I suspect BOOST CHECK VALVE in the boom spool (when lifting boom maybe boost check valve do not close good?) Could that be the problem?
I have check also main and port relief valves and are all o.k.. I will go to the machine with flow meter on saturday and will see how both pupmps deliver oil under heavy lift.

I loost my paper with s/n, but hydraulics shematis is the same like in document S5LQ0004E.

Gregor

Iron Mechanical
05-31-2012, 06:29 PM
I am working on a 2008 kobelco sk350-8 for the first time and there is an engine miss do I need a special diagnostic tool to isolate injectors or can I do it with on board diagnostics? Also where would I find a service manual, an online version would be nice, I found them for all the models up to -6 but nothing newer.

MR. KOBELCO
05-31-2012, 06:42 PM
Hello,

I would be glad for good advise because this will eat my nervs...

Problem is with Kobelco SK200 mark 3.

The problem is that Boom does not have the speed like it should and also the power. When oil is cold the speed is there and power also. But when I heat the oil realy good speed bacomes extremely slow and power is poor. Sometimes You can not lift full bucket. When You quicly several times engage other comand the boom performance goes little better. The engine do not feal the heavy lift. Like all oil was leaking somwhere....

I have check pressures and both pumps works on 270 bar max, checked also prop. valve for power shift and prop. valve for boom speed - both are o.k..

I have measured both negative control signals ( 48 bar at full engine speed). From that signal I saw that Boom conflux works ( both pumps engaged for boom lifting- pi1,2=0 bar).

Bucket is strong ( just sometimes happens that opening of the bucked wait for half second when You give command), arm is strong and fast.

I notice that for arm extending( closing arm cylinder) both pumps are combined, but for arm digging ( opening cylinder) under heavy load only one pump works ( travel priority is not engage for combining two pumps?) and it negative signal pi2 is jumping fast from 45 to 20 bar - strange - here I suspect ARM SQUENCE VALVE or filter on pilot or travel priority valve but I think it has nothing to do with boom.

For the boom I suspect BOOST CHECK VALVE in the boom spool (when lifting boom maybe boost check valve do not close good?) Could that be the problem?
I have check also main and port relief valves and are all o.k.. I will go to the machine with flow meter on saturday and will see how both pupmps deliver oil under heavy lift.

I loost my paper with s/n, but hydraulics shematis is the same like in document S5LQ0004E.

Gregor


hi gregor,
if you have not done this yet i highly recommend doing so, does not take long at all.
raise boom hoist cylinder all the way up to stall postion dead head cylinders.
turn off machine.
carefully now...
you will need to blow air prs off hyd tank,
unjoin hyd hose that comes from each boom cylinder rod end of cylinder,
cap off machine line,
take hose that oil will exit boom cylinder rod end and hold to a pail
start machine,
then run boom raise again - lifting boom up
measure how much oil is exiting the two hoses into separate pails
you should have no more than a teaspoon
if gushes out any of the 2 hoses the one that gushes is bypassing the piston and you need to overhaul.
i say first thing to check and if so eliminate as possible cause.
if you have done this let me know
i am sure i can advise other checks from here.
cheers
adam
work safe.

MR. KOBELCO
05-31-2012, 06:47 PM
I am working on a 2008 kobelco sk350-8 for the first time and there is an engine miss do I need a special diagnostic tool to isolate injectors or can I do it with on board diagnostics? Also where would I find a service manual, an online version would be nice, I found them for all the models up to -6 but nothing newer.

hi please e-mail me directly @ hf_hydraulics@hotmail.com
or call me at work at 905-888-9070
thx
adam

MR. KOBELCO
05-31-2012, 06:49 PM
hi guys,

in order for me to provide proper and safe guidance...
please, please, please, you must provide me the serial number of your machine.
a model is not sufficient alone.
thanks
adam

gregor1978
06-01-2012, 04:23 PM
hi gregor,
if you have not done this yet i highly recommend doing so, does not take long at all.
raise boom hoist cylinder all the way up to stall postion dead head cylinders.
turn off machine.
carefully now...
you will need to blow air prs off hyd tank,
unjoin hyd hose that comes from each boom cylinder rod end of cylinder,
cap off machine line,
take hose that oil will exit boom cylinder rod end and hold to a pail
start machine,
then run boom raise again - lifting boom up
measure how much oil is exiting the two hoses into separate pails
you should have no more than a teaspoon
if gushes out any of the 2 hoses the one that gushes is bypassing the piston and you need to overhaul.
i say first thing to check and if so eliminate as possible cause.
if you have done this let me know
i am sure i can advise other checks from here.
cheers
adam
work safe.

Hi MR. KOBELCO,

Thank You for fast answer. I wish that would be the probem. Tomorrow I will firstly do what You suggest. If that would not be the case I will also have flow meter with me to see how each pump work under the pressure. Than I will be back with my results.

Regards,
Gregor

MR. KOBELCO
06-01-2012, 11:40 PM
I am working on a 2008 kobelco sk350-8 for the first time and there is an engine miss do I need a special diagnostic tool to isolate injectors or can I do it with on board diagnostics? Also where would I find a service manual, an online version would be nice, I found them for all the models up to -6 but nothing newer.

hi,
if you called i'm sorry you might have had trouble getting thru today. storming and very windy.
power kept going out at work.
in regards to your sk350lc-8, it is not uncommon for the fuel injectors to get fouled up.
an overlooked maintenance point on most hyd exc is the fuel tank.
on the newer models the fuel tank is being relied on more so as a fuel conditioning device.
it is highly rec that the fuel tank drain **** be opened and any water from condensation and sediment be let off every monday morning after sits over
the weekend. if you do this there would be less fuel issues.
also, both kobelco and hino have come up with an improved fuel filtration kit that replaces the one fuel filter which was std on the first group of 350-8.
i would stress this gets installed if its not on it.
if you e-mail me at " hf_hydraulics@hotmail.com " i can forward you this info.
in regards to your original question,
to work on the hino engine to access the ecu you would need to be a kobelco dealer for there is a software only released to us.
hino dx diagnostics software and connection cables - runs over $2k.
plus, the fuel injectors cannot just be swapped out for hino uses denso electronic fuel inj that have a QR code which a special QR reader can read.
this code is a calibration of which must be programmed into the ecu.
the diagnostics for the engines on all the new models are not onboard.
you need either a CNH/EST tool or the Hino DX.
again, please e-mail me for i can elaborate more on this.
also, if you need new injectors i can sell cheaper than any dealer can buy them from kobelco parts depots.
they are oem apples to apples and the latest supercession.
cheers
adam

Kobe130
06-02-2012, 12:02 AM
hi,
the swing reliefs are on the hyd swing mtr control valve itself.
i am going with grandkobelco on this one, it seems that your p2 pump is not turning on.
you can verify this by teeing into the pilot hose for the pi2 line at the hyd pump regulator valve.
use a 1,000 psi hyd prs gauge.
the prs will read high 400 - 600 psi say
when you use the swing controls this prs should drop off which causes the p2 oil flow to rise.
if prs does not drop off then its likely that one of the shuttles in the main c/v is leaking off the signal which would be required to shift the p2 bypass cut spool.
a second possible cause could be that a shuttle ball is missing in the pilot lines around the swing hyd mtr - see online parts catalogue remote pilot lines for the locations of these balls
or i have had before one pilot line being joined to the wrong connection on a teed fitting at the swing mtr area and the signal was not being routed to the port in the c/v to shift the p2 bypass cut spool.
i would first trace all your pilot lines verifying, see balls are in place and have not been lost and can watch your progress with tee gauge at pi2.
now i do have one question,
when you swing does the swing flasher led on the cab dash display light up as soon as you give movement on the joystick ?
this led should lite immediately.
reason i ask, one of the teed fitting assy has a long spring and ball, it is adjustable but should not bee tampered with.
its very sensitive. if this has been fooled with and lite is not immediate this could be why your swing is slow for pump will not turn on.
only when you move the arm signal comes from the opposite direction on this same tee.
adam

Thx guys you were right on the money. Teed into Pi2 at the regulator - pressure goes from 700 psi to almost zero when arm is operated and it moves just fine. Swing pilot action drops the pressure hardly at all and - almost no swing. Checked tees and most valves today - found nothing amiss. Spools, valves and springs all seem to be fine. Did not check neutral cut valve 306A as it is underneath and I didn't think I could get it back in again without big trouble but I see in the manual it is implicated. If I can get the topside allen head plug out is it possible to check the NCV spool (topside 306B was perfect) by inserting a clean rod from the top to see if the 2 springs on the other end of 306A compress ok? I presume the port relief valves are not involved in this problem. Am I correct? Next step is to put another 1000 psi gauge on the pilot lines (return lines I guess) connecting the swing control valve, the hyd valve mated to the swing motor and then it goes on to the control block A where I found the Teed pressure switch Adam referred to. I'd only be guessing at what the psi in this line should be. I see that some of these fittings are actually restricting orifices. Does this line feed the pilot signal (to swing) back into the control block to get P2 pump to ramp up??? Thx for your thoughts.

Kobe130
06-02-2012, 12:11 AM
hi,
the swing reliefs are on the hyd swing mtr control valve itself.
i am going with grandkobelco on this one, it seems that your p2 pump is not turning on.
you can verify this by teeing into the pilot hose for the pi2 line at the hyd pump regulator valve.
use a 1,000 psi hyd prs gauge.
the prs will read high 400 - 600 psi say
when you use the swing controls this prs should drop off which causes the p2 oil flow to rise.
if prs does not drop off then its likely that one of the shuttles in the main c/v is leaking off the signal which would be required to shift the p2 bypass cut spool.
a second possible cause could be that a shuttle ball is missing in the pilot lines around the swing hyd mtr - see online parts catalogue remote pilot lines for the locations of these balls
or i have had before one pilot line being joined to the wrong connection on a teed fitting at the swing mtr area and the signal was not being routed to the port in the c/v to shift the p2 bypass cut spool.
i would first trace all your pilot lines verifying, see balls are in place and have not been lost and can watch your progress with tee gauge at pi2.
now i do have one question,
when you swing does the swing flasher led on the cab dash display light up as soon as you give movement on the joystick ?
this led should lite immediately.
reason i ask, one of the teed fitting assy has a long spring and ball, it is adjustable but should not bee tampered with.
its very sensitive. if this has been fooled with and lite is not immediate this could be why your swing is slow for pump will not turn on.
only when you move the arm signal comes from the opposite direction on this same tee.
adam

Thx guys you were right on the money. Teed into Pi2 at the regulator - pressure goes from 700 psi to almost zero when arm is operated and it moves just fine. Swing pilot action drops the pressure hardly at all and - almost no swing. Checked tees and most valves today - found nothing amiss. Spools, valves and springs all seem to be fine. Did not check neutral cut valve 306A as it is underneath and I didn't think I could get it back in again without big trouble but I see in the manual it is implicated. If I can get the topside allen head plug out is it possible to check the NCV spool (topside 306B was perfect) by inserting a clean rod from the top to see if the 2 springs on the other end of 306A compress ok? I presume the port relief valves are not involved in this problem. Am I correct? Next step is to put another 1000 psi gauge on the pilot lines (return lines I guess) connecting the swing control valve, the hyd valve mated to the swing motor and then it goes on to the control block A where I found the Teed pressure switch Adam referred to. I'd only be guessing at what the psi in this line should be. I see that some of these fittings are actually restricting orifices. Does this line feed the pilot signal (to swing) back into the control block to get P2 pump to ramp up??? Thx for your thoughts.

MR. KOBELCO
06-02-2012, 10:20 AM
Thx guys you were right on the money. Teed into Pi2 at the regulator - pressure goes from 700 psi to almost zero when arm is operated and it moves just fine. Swing pilot action drops the pressure hardly at all and - almost no swing. Checked tees and most valves today - found nothing amiss. Spools, valves and springs all seem to be fine. Did not check neutral cut valve 306A as it is underneath and I didn't think I could get it back in again without big trouble but I see in the manual it is implicated. If I can get the topside allen head plug out is it possible to check the NCV spool (topside 306B was perfect) by inserting a clean rod from the top to see if the 2 springs on the other end of 306A compress ok? I presume the port relief valves are not involved in this problem. Am I correct? Next step is to put another 1000 psi gauge on the pilot lines (return lines I guess) connecting the swing control valve, the hyd valve mated to the swing motor and then it goes on to the control block A where I found the Teed pressure switch Adam referred to. I'd only be guessing at what the psi in this line should be. I see that some of these fittings are actually restricting orifices. Does this line feed the pilot signal (to swing) back into the control block to get P2 pump to ramp up??? Thx for your thoughts.

hi brian,
whats your new e-mail ?
i tried sending you something and it kicked back on me.
please e-mail me direct at " hf_hydraulics@hotmail.com "
thx
adam

gregor1978
06-02-2012, 04:16 PM
Hello,

Today I visit that machine again and I am not happy.
Firts the machine model and serial: SK200 YNU0107

I have checked and Boom cylinders are not bypassing.

Than I connect flow turbine to P2 and I record:

1.) cold oil 25 deg.C
min engine rev. and S....19,2 l/min


max. engine rev. and S ...37,5 l/min
Boom lifting - P2 for support in conflux ...137 l/min at cca.(sombody corrupt my fitting for pressure transduser and I used analog manometer) 120 bar. When boom reached highest level pressure rised to 280 bar and flow went slowly to 75l/min but only if I held boom joystic contiusly after I reach toppest point. If jostick was relised and pushed agan than only 40 l/min was got out of pump.Here I suspect pump regulator fault.

Arm cylinder opening: 240 l/min at 50-100 bar - in vertical position arms waits a little bit ( flow still stand on 240 l/min) and than continue. When it reacjh final position flow ends at 43 l/mon at 280 bar.
Arm cylinder closing: 150 l/min and when reached final position stayed at 280 bar.

2.) worm oil tank outside 40 deg.C and Al flow turbine 50 deg. C

Still P2.

Travel uphill 150l/min at 100 bar. Both tracks moves with the same speed.

Boom lifting - P2 for support in conflux ...130 l/min at 120 bar. When boom reached highest level pressure rised to 280 bar and flow went slowly to 60 l/min but only if I held boom joystic contiusly after I reach toppest point. If jostick was relised and pushed agan than only 26 l/min !! was got out of pump.Here I suspect pump regulator fault again.

Arm retracting at 200 l/min and extending at 130 l/min ( cca. 15 % slower than cold)
Arm cylinder full open: 270 bar and 42 l/min
Arm cylinder closing: 270 bar and 26 l/min. Why is here difference at pump flow??

When boom lifting is operate with arm extending at the same time arm move fast and boom very slow hardly noticed (flow on P2 105 l/mn). When arm extented to the end boom started to move faster.

Swing 150 l/min when rottating around.

I changed also pipes on pump in that way that P1 becamed P2 and also Pi1,2 lines to. and flow turbine stayed on the same line. And the measuring was identical.

When I went digging in to the sand I loaded full bucket of wet sand. I noticed that Bucket did not have power to close, arm also did not have power to retract ( I heard high tone of pump noise ( regulating to min ( 42l/min on P2) and than ofcourse boom did not have power to lift ( flow meter showed 27 l/min at 280 bar).
Than I lowered the boom and lifted myself ( also lifting was not easy ( lack of power) after few attemps I lifted myself up with boom and than fast swiched comand to boom lift and than the boom managed to lift normaly ( also dieselengine felt that) and flow meter showed 62 l/min at 280 bar. When I stoped lifting and tried again with lifting problem was again here. Flow was a little higher 66 l/min and pressure 280 bar but the boom did not lit anymore , pump hered regulating and engine dont felt it.

I could not test pump 1 because there was diferent fitting wich i did not have with me nd the shops was closed alredy.
I suspect pump regulation, but it is strange for me.

What Do You think?

Regards,
Gregor

MR. KOBELCO
06-02-2012, 04:56 PM
Hello,

Today I visit that machine again and I am not happy.
Firts the machine model and serial: SK200 YNU0107

I have checked and Boom cylinders are not bypassing.

Than I connect flow turbine to P2 and I record:

1.) cold oil 25 deg.C
min engine rev. and S....19,2 l/min


max. engine rev. and S ...37,5 l/min
Boom lifting - P2 for support in conflux ...137 l/min at cca.(sombody corrupt my fitting for pressure transduser and I used analog manometer) 120 bar. When boom reached highest level pressure rised to 280 bar and flow went slowly to 75l/min but only if I held boom joystic contiusly after I reach toppest point. If jostick was relised and pushed agan than only 40 l/min was got out of pump.Here I suspect pump regulator fault.

Arm cylinder opening: 240 l/min at 50-100 bar - in vertical position arms waits a little bit ( flow still stand on 240 l/min) and than continue. When it reacjh final position flow ends at 43 l/mon at 280 bar.
Arm cylinder closing: 150 l/min and when reached final position stayed at 280 bar.

2.) worm oil tank outside 40 deg.C and Al flow turbine 50 deg. C

Still P2.

Travel uphill 150l/min at 100 bar. Both tracks moves with the same speed.

Boom lifting - P2 for support in conflux ...130 l/min at 120 bar. When boom reached highest level pressure rised to 280 bar and flow went slowly to 60 l/min but only if I held boom joystic contiusly after I reach toppest point. If jostick was relised and pushed agan than only 26 l/min !! was got out of pump.Here I suspect pump regulator fault again.

Arm retracting at 200 l/min and extending at 130 l/min ( cca. 15 % slower than cold)
Arm cylinder full open: 270 bar and 42 l/min
Arm cylinder closing: 270 bar and 26 l/min. Why is here difference at pump flow??

When boom lifting is operate with arm extending at the same time arm move fast and boom very slow hardly noticed (flow on P2 105 l/mn). When arm extented to the end boom started to move faster.

Swing 150 l/min when rottating around.

I changed also pipes on pump in that way that P1 becamed P2 and also Pi1,2 lines to. and flow turbine stayed on the same line. And the measuring was identical.

When I went digging in to the sand I loaded full bucket of wet sand. I noticed that Bucket did not have power to close, arm also did not have power to retract ( I heard high tone of pump noise ( regulating to min ( 42l/min on P2) and than ofcourse boom did not have power to lift ( flow meter showed 27 l/min at 280 bar).
Than I lowered the boom and lifted myself ( also lifting was not easy ( lack of power) after few attemps I lifted myself up with boom and than fast swiched comand to boom lift and than the boom managed to lift normaly ( also dieselengine felt that) and flow meter showed 62 l/min at 280 bar. When I stoped lifting and tried again with lifting problem was again here. Flow was a little higher 66 l/min and pressure 280 bar but the boom did not lit anymore , pump hered regulating and engine dont felt it.

I could not test pump 1 because there was diferent fitting wich i did not have with me nd the shops was closed alredy.
I suspect pump regulation, but it is strange for me.

What Do You think?

Regards,
Gregor

hi Gregor,

questions and checks-

what hyd oil are you using - brand, name, viscosity grade ?

have you recorded what the pilot gear pump pressure is at ?
my suggest, to test pilot oil flow this way by;
- install a 1,000 psi hyd prs gauge (70 bar)
- have the engine at lo-idle
- pilot lever lock up position (disengaged)
- read what your pilot pressure " P3 " is at
- pressure should be no less than 600 psi (40 bar)
- now engage pilot lever lock and observe gauge
- how low does it drop and how quickly does it recover ?
- my checks to determine overall health of the hyd pilot (remote) gear pump

have you measured the hyd pump case drain oil flow # lpm ?

does your machine have the hyd pump case drain hyd oil filter ?
if so, have you cut it open to visually inspect the material it has collected ?

request-
this document you reference S5LQ0004E
is it a digital file that you can e-mail me to review
i do not have in my library
if you can e-mail please send to " hf_hydraulics@hotmail.com "

thx
adam

MR. KOBELCO
06-02-2012, 11:48 PM
Hello,

Today I visit that machine again and I am not happy.
Firts the machine model and serial: SK200 YNU0107

I have checked and Boom cylinders are not bypassing.

Than I connect flow turbine to P2 and I record:

1.) cold oil 25 deg.C
min engine rev. and S....19,2 l/min


max. engine rev. and S ...37,5 l/min
Boom lifting - P2 for support in conflux ...137 l/min at cca.(sombody corrupt my fitting for pressure transduser and I used analog manometer) 120 bar. When boom reached highest level pressure rised to 280 bar and flow went slowly to 75l/min but only if I held boom joystic contiusly after I reach toppest point. If jostick was relised and pushed agan than only 40 l/min was got out of pump.Here I suspect pump regulator fault.

Arm cylinder opening: 240 l/min at 50-100 bar - in vertical position arms waits a little bit ( flow still stand on 240 l/min) and than continue. When it reacjh final position flow ends at 43 l/mon at 280 bar.
Arm cylinder closing: 150 l/min and when reached final position stayed at 280 bar.

2.) worm oil tank outside 40 deg.C and Al flow turbine 50 deg. C

Still P2.

Travel uphill 150l/min at 100 bar. Both tracks moves with the same speed.

Boom lifting - P2 for support in conflux ...130 l/min at 120 bar. When boom reached highest level pressure rised to 280 bar and flow went slowly to 60 l/min but only if I held boom joystic contiusly after I reach toppest point. If jostick was relised and pushed agan than only 26 l/min !! was got out of pump.Here I suspect pump regulator fault again.

Arm retracting at 200 l/min and extending at 130 l/min ( cca. 15 % slower than cold)
Arm cylinder full open: 270 bar and 42 l/min
Arm cylinder closing: 270 bar and 26 l/min. Why is here difference at pump flow??

When boom lifting is operate with arm extending at the same time arm move fast and boom very slow hardly noticed (flow on P2 105 l/mn). When arm extented to the end boom started to move faster.

Swing 150 l/min when rottating around.

I changed also pipes on pump in that way that P1 becamed P2 and also Pi1,2 lines to. and flow turbine stayed on the same line. And the measuring was identical.

When I went digging in to the sand I loaded full bucket of wet sand. I noticed that Bucket did not have power to close, arm also did not have power to retract ( I heard high tone of pump noise ( regulating to min ( 42l/min on P2) and than ofcourse boom did not have power to lift ( flow meter showed 27 l/min at 280 bar).
Than I lowered the boom and lifted myself ( also lifting was not easy ( lack of power) after few attemps I lifted myself up with boom and than fast swiched comand to boom lift and than the boom managed to lift normaly ( also dieselengine felt that) and flow meter showed 62 l/min at 280 bar. When I stoped lifting and tried again with lifting problem was again here. Flow was a little higher 66 l/min and pressure 280 bar but the boom did not lit anymore , pump hered regulating and engine dont felt it.

I could not test pump 1 because there was diferent fitting wich i did not have with me nd the shops was closed alredy.
I suspect pump regulation, but it is strange for me.

What Do You think?

Regards,
Gregor

hi Gregor,

one more check, i have run into this lately, good thing to be aware of
tee before (pilot gear pump) and after the pilot lever lock solenoid too
calculate the difference between the 2 pressure gauges
pilot pump # bar minus the outlet # bar after the lever lock solenoid = the total pressure drop across the solenoid valve.
if this pilot lever lock solenoid is starting to fail especially once it warms up as current passes thru it
it can lose its magnetic force causing a flow restriction resulting in a higher pressure
if you change the solenoid the pilot oil flow will increase and pressure to rest of pilot system flooding the signal circuits to the ports
and thus shifting the neutral bypass cut spools more dropping the pi1/pi2 pressures at the hyd pump regulators which will result in a higher and
more stable reaction of oil flow delivery out of your main hydr pumps.
plus the conflux spools will open more also delivering more oil and increase speeds.

just a thought
cheers!
adam

MR. KOBELCO
06-02-2012, 11:52 PM
to all, have a good night.
adam

gregor1978
06-03-2012, 05:04 PM
hi Gregor,

one more check, i have run into this lately, good thing to be aware of
tee before (pilot gear pump) and after the pilot lever lock solenoid too
calculate the difference between the 2 pressure gauges
pilot pump # bar minus the outlet # bar after the lever lock solenoid = the total pressure drop across the solenoid valve.
if this pilot lever lock solenoid is starting to fail especially once it warms up as current passes thru it
it can lose its magnetic force causing a flow restriction resulting in a higher pressure
if you change the solenoid the pilot oil flow will increase and pressure to rest of pilot system flooding the signal circuits to the ports
and thus shifting the neutral bypass cut spools more dropping the pi1/pi2 pressures at the hyd pump regulators which will result in a higher and
more stable reaction of oil flow delivery out of your main hydr pumps.
plus the conflux spools will open more also delivering more oil and increase speeds.

just a thought
cheers!
adam

Hello Mr. Kobelco,

Thank You for help.

With oil will be hard to say. Certanly is to old and was changed two Years ago when owner put newly repaird pump on. But it is ISO VG 46 ( viscosity 46 Cst.) Here I can not teach owneres that oil and cleanless is very important.

I measured the pilot pump last time but I did not record it. But I think that pressure is lower tha 40 bar at low engine speed. At engine full speed it recovers to 48 bar. I also think that comands dont work at engine low idle. What if pressure is lower than 40 bar at low idle - is than gear pump worn out or could be also relief valve problem?

I will go tomorrow there and do what You suggest. But I think this could be realy the problem. Because last time I mention that I noticed ( from measuring pump pilot Pi signal) when retracting arm, P1 pump did not engage under heavy load. If there was to less pressure on on pilot this could be also the case, because travel priorty valve could not ber swiched over to combine both pumps.
Do You maybe know how much pressure You need to engage valve spool with no load and valve spool fuly loaded? I gues higher pressure is needed for higher load due higher flow forces.
Still wonder why arm extending plus boom lifting dont work at the same time ( boom extemly slow). Your solution could explain in that way that arm spool needs less pilot pressure to open than boom spool and because two spools is activated and pilot pump has unsufficien flow pilot pressure on arm spool is less than if only arm spool was activated ( because of that on flow meer was read only 105 l/min - when operate arm alone was 150l/min) ?

What about arm standing still for cca. 1 s in vertical position and flow reading is more than 200 l/min ?

Regards,
Gregor

MR. KOBELCO
06-03-2012, 09:38 PM
Hello Mr. Kobelco,

Thank You for help.

With oil will be hard to say. Certanly is to old and was changed two Years ago when owner put newly repaird pump on. But it is ISO VG 46 ( viscosity 46 Cst.) Here I can not teach owneres that oil and cleanless is very important.

I measured the pilot pump last time but I did not record it. But I think that pressure is lower tha 40 bar at low engine speed. At engine full speed it recovers to 48 bar. I also think that comands dont work at engine low idle. What if pressure is lower than 40 bar at low idle - is than gear pump worn out or could be also relief valve problem?

I will go tomorrow there and do what You suggest. But I think this could be realy the problem. Because last time I mention that I noticed ( from measuring pump pilot Pi signal) when retracting arm, P1 pump did not engage under heavy load. If there was to less pressure on on pilot this could be also the case, because travel priorty valve could not ber swiched over to combine both pumps.
Do You maybe know how much pressure You need to engage valve spool with no load and valve spool fuly loaded? I gues higher pressure is needed for higher load due higher flow forces.
Still wonder why arm extending plus boom lifting dont work at the same time ( boom extemly slow). Your solution could explain in that way that arm spool needs less pilot pressure to open than boom spool and because two spools is activated and pilot pump has unsufficien flow pilot pressure on arm spool is less than if only arm spool was activated ( because of that on flow meer was read only 105 l/min - when operate arm alone was 150l/min) ?

What about arm standing still for cca. 1 s in vertical position and flow reading is more than 200 l/min ?

Regards,
Gregor

hi gregor,

if this is the case that you are less than 40 bar at lo-idle then it is quite likely that your pilot gear pump is worn and should be replaced with new.
if the pilot relief is checked and looks to be okay then before you pull all your hair out this would have to be done first.
after replacing all needs to be retested.
cheers
adam

grandkobelco
06-04-2012, 06:15 AM
Thx guys you were right on the money. Teed into Pi2 at the regulator - pressure goes from 700 psi to almost zero when arm is operated and it moves just fine. Swing pilot action drops the pressure hardly at all and - almost no swing. Checked tees and most valves today - found nothing amiss. Spools, valves and springs all seem to be fine. Did not check neutral cut valve 306A as it is underneath and I didn't think I could get it back in again without big trouble but I see in the manual it is implicated. If I can get the topside allen head plug out is it possible to check the NCV spool (topside 306B was perfect) by inserting a clean rod from the top to see if the 2 springs on the other end of 306A compress ok? I presume the port relief valves are not involved in this problem. Am I correct? Next step is to put another 1000 psi gauge on the pilot lines (return lines I guess) connecting the swing control valve, the hyd valve mated to the swing motor and then it goes on to the control block A where I found the Teed pressure switch Adam referred to. I'd only be guessing at what the psi in this line should be. I see that some of these fittings are actually restricting orifices. Does this line feed the pilot signal (to swing) back into the control block to get P2 pump to ramp up??? Thx for your thoughts.
Yes, there is a pilot line that goes from the hyd swing motor
to the main controll valve to stroke the P2 NCV when you swing, this pilot line is missing, routed wrong, or the shuttle check valves are missing, not functioning. Don't dig out the P2 NCV itself I dought thats the problem. As adam said, check out the parts cat to find the location of these balls. Inspect closly for missing or damedge. Pressure in this line will be pilot oil pressure, 400-600 psi. The NCV is variable, the more pilot oil you put on top of it the more it moves, the more it moves the more it cuts oil to the P2 gov, the more oil P2 puts out the faster you swing.

KeeslerIron
06-04-2012, 12:08 PM
Hello,
I have a Kobelco SK300LC Sn-YCU0162. The machine suddenly stopped swinging either direction. The engine and pumps labor when the swing is activated. There is no movement what so ever. Not sure where to start without a manual to give an idea of how the system works. Is there a swing brake that may not be releasing? Any help, insight, and suggestions would be appreciated.
Thank you

gregor1978
06-04-2012, 05:03 PM
hi gregor,

if this is the case that you are less than 40 bar at lo-idle then it is quite likely that your pilot gear pump is worn and should be replaced with new.
if the pilot relief is checked and looks to be okay then before you pull all your hair out this would have to be done first.
after replacing all needs to be retested.
cheers
adam


Hello Mr. Kobelco,

Today I went back check again pilot line. At lovest engine idle I got 29 bar on P3 and at highest engine speed 50 bar. When I egaged lever lock the pressur felt down for 1 bar on 28 bar and recovered in1/2 second. Temperature of oil was 30 deg. C. Than I worrm up the system and funy because i think outside relative low temparature and rain system needed 1 hour to slighty show its malfunction and I feel like employee on exavator... All functions becamed slower and slower and did not want to stop working.
Than I read at lowes idle 19 bar and at highest 49 bar. Temperature of oil was 50 deg. Celsius.
I said this is it, gear pump is worn out and I do one more check.
I disconected pipe from gear pump and put relief valve directly on it and conect it with improvised flow meter ( big mensure). After engine started in low idle I set the pressure on my relief to 50 bar. Almost no flow came out of gear pump. Than the speed was set to max. and I measure only 6 l/min flow. And the flow should be 18 l/min. I concluded that gear pump is defective and neeeds to be replaced.
Now I will order new gear pump and I hope the problems will be solved...Otherwise I will be back :)

Thanks.

Regards,
Gregor

MR. KOBELCO
06-04-2012, 09:04 PM
Hello,
I have a Kobelco SK300LC Sn-YCU0162. The machine suddenly stopped swinging either direction. The engine and pumps labor when the swing is activated. There is no movement what so ever. Not sure where to start without a manual to give an idea of how the system works. Is there a swing brake that may not be releasing? Any help, insight, and suggestions would be appreciated.
Thank you

hi,
question, what is your swing gear reduction gear oil level at ?
can you see level on the dipstick ?
gear oil is 80w-90
if oil is low very likely that the top upper gear carrier has the one gear burned out and unit is mechanically jammed.
if no oil i suggest you unbolt the swing hyd mtr and lift off the swing gear unit to do a visual.
please refer to the parts cat for drawing before you attempt.
the swing tower if you are unaware consists of the upper portion - swing hyd mtr
the lower gear reduction
cheers
adam

MR. KOBELCO
06-04-2012, 09:08 PM
Hello Mr. Kobelco,

Today I went back check again pilot line. At lovest engine idle I got 29 bar on P3 and at highest engine speed 50 bar. When I egaged lever lock the pressur felt down for 1 bar on 28 bar and recovered in1/2 second. Temperature of oil was 30 deg. C. Than I worrm up the system and funy because i think outside relative low temparature and rain system needed 1 hour to slighty show its malfunction and I feel like employee on exavator... All functions becamed slower and slower and did not want to stop working.
Than I read at lowes idle 19 bar and at highest 49 bar. Temperature of oil was 50 deg. Celsius.
I said this is it, gear pump is worn out and I do one more check.
I disconected pipe from gear pump and put relief valve directly on it and conect it with improvised flow meter ( big mensure). After engine started in low idle I set the pressure on my relief to 50 bar. Almost no flow came out of gear pump. Than the speed was set to max. and I measure only 6 l/min flow. And the flow should be 18 l/min. I concluded that gear pump is defective and neeeds to be replaced.
Now I will order new gear pump and I hope the problems will be solved...Otherwise I will be back :)

Thanks.

Regards,
Gregor

hi gregor,
if this is your fix, please do post your feedback just the same
adam

armadillo
06-05-2012, 07:35 PM
Hello Mr. Kobelco
I have a 2005(?) ED150 S/N YH02-01384 with aprox 5200 hrs on the machine. The drive motors have been slowly loosing power over the past few months and now the machine is starting to run hot. My first thought was a restricted radiator. Radiator is clean and full of fluid. I changed the thermostat. It helped a little but still running much warmer than normal. The machine is also using more fuel. Started off only getting hot when I was heavy pushing with the dozer. Now it heats up when ever the machine is working. If you stop and bring it to half throtel the temp. guage cools way down in about a minute. The tractor runs strong for the first couple hours. Once it starts heating up the tracks SLOW down. Other functions are not noticeably affected.

I did some onboard diagnostics.
N0.24
E-1 P-1
(cold, track at full stroke) comp. 741mA 30K
meas. 742mA 29K
(hot, track at full stroke) comp. 570mA 20K
meas. 570mA 19K
No.25
E-2 P-2
(cold,track at full stroke) comp. 742mA 30K
meas. 741mA 29K
(hot, track at full stroke) comp. 575-595mA 20K
meas. 576mA 19K
Looks like I'm loosing about a third of my pressure or volume witch is how the machine is acting. Not sure what to do next. I read your post on the O rings in the pump regulators but there is no square nut on the end of my pumps :-( They are Kawasaki though. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

gregor1978
06-06-2012, 04:03 PM
Hello Mr. Kobelco,

One more think:
I found up that in past somone repaired Kawasaki piston pump. And so he put there rear cover for 4 bolts gear pump with outer drain ( own relief valve) - like at SK200 mark6. And this 4 bolts gear pump is little bigger (10 or 12 cc/rev) than original (7cc/rev).
So now my machine has separate relief valve set on cca. 45 bar at 18 l/min and I will put there gear pump with 12 cc/rev with relief valve.

What is better to use gear pump relief and make hose conection to tank and set old relief valve to higher value, or to plug gear pump relief valve and reset old relief valve for 28 l/min flow?

Thanks.

Regards,
Gregor

MR. KOBELCO
06-06-2012, 08:46 PM
Hello Mr. Kobelco,

One more think:
I found up that in past somone repaired Kawasaki piston pump. And so he put there rear cover for 4 bolts gear pump with outer drain ( own relief valve) - like at SK200 mark6. And this 4 bolts gear pump is little bigger (10 or 12 cc/rev) than original (7cc/rev).
So now my machine has separate relief valve set on cca. 45 bar at 18 l/min and I will put there gear pump with 12 cc/rev with relief valve.

What is better to use gear pump relief and make hose conection to tank and set old relief valve to higher value, or to plug gear pump relief valve and reset old relief valve for 28 l/min flow?

Thanks.

Regards,
Gregor

hi,
be sure that the shaft has the same # of teeth on splines and size ok.
not all the same, have seen fitted but shaft slips.
if you fit the new style pilot pump that has the built-in relief use that one.
set the old one higher approx 150 psi
and plumb up the new pilot pumps tank line to tank
adam

MR. KOBELCO
06-06-2012, 08:58 PM
Hello Mr. Kobelco
I have a 2005(?) ED150 S/N YH02-01384 with aprox 5200 hrs on the machine. The drive motors have been slowly loosing power over the past few months and now the machine is starting to run hot. My first thought was a restricted radiator. Radiator is clean and full of fluid. I changed the thermostat. It helped a little but still running much warmer than normal. The machine is also using more fuel. Started off only getting hot when I was heavy pushing with the dozer. Now it heats up when ever the machine is working. If you stop and bring it to half throtel the temp. guage cools way down in about a minute. The tractor runs strong for the first couple hours. Once it starts heating up the tracks SLOW down. Other functions are not noticeably affected.

I did some onboard diagnostics.
N0.24
E-1 P-1
(cold, track at full stroke) comp. 741mA 30K
meas. 742mA 29K
(hot, track at full stroke) comp. 570mA 20K
meas. 570mA 19K
No.25
E-2 P-2
(cold,track at full stroke) comp. 742mA 30K
meas. 741mA 29K
(hot, track at full stroke) comp. 575-595mA 20K
meas. 576mA 19K
Looks like I'm loosing about a third of my pressure or volume witch is how the machine is acting. Not sure what to do next. I read your post on the O rings in the pump regulators but there is no square nut on the end of my pumps :-( They are Kawasaki though. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

hi,
my thoughts at first glance...
the screens youre viewing are the psv sol on the hyd pump regulators
as you pointed out that once the machine gets hot the hyd pumps are being cut back in hyd oil flow to attempt to keep the load off the engine to try to keep
up the eng rpm and with that the eng fan speed.
its very likely that the computer is sensing a lack of power from your engine.
have you verified the engine rpm with a tach versus the eng rpm meas speed in scrn no. 2 ?
have you checked the fuel system, water in fuel tank, sediment in tank,
have you looked at all the screens in the display with key on and eng not running ?
all the hyd sensors should zero
0.4 v and 0 pressure ?

****
i would recommend trying this,...
when in the screens 24 and 25 and machine is at the point when its acting up, pumps being destroked
use a water spray bottle and cool down the fuel inj pump housing see if this changes your results
it is possible the fuel inj pump is worn out and requires overhaul and recalibration - do fuel inj too.
****

now a second thought,
on screen 14 the high prs sensors on pumps
what reads key on eng off
reads cold - full throttle, H mode, stalling over boom raise main relief ?
reads hot - stalling in same condition

cheers
adam

armadillo
06-06-2012, 11:08 PM
Yes I checked all screens with key on engine off. 0.5v-0.6v 0K on pressure sensers.
Fuel system appears good. No water in the seperator........ Will try a new filter and the water on the injector pump. There is little or no smoke from the exhaust.
Screen 14
key on engine off,, P-1 0.4mV 0K
P-2 0.5mv 0K
High idle cold,no load ,, P-1 0.5mv 6-9K flutter
P-2 0.5mV 9-11K, pretty steady at 10K
High idle warm with tracks stalled,, P-1 3.1v 316-327K
P-2 3.0v 316-326K
Sorry, didn't recheck it HOT. Thought I had found the issue with No.24 and 25

Screen 13
B-9 0.5v 0K
B-10 0.6v 1K,,, B10 would not "0" even when I moved the travel lever back and forth gently. Problem??
All so, my "mode" selector button does not function. it is stuck on H. Is there an easy fix for this?

armadillo
06-06-2012, 11:39 PM
The fact that the machine is burning MORE fuel I didn't think about a fuel restriction. If this is the issue,,,, I'll be a happy camper!!!
Thank you for your insight. Will let you know how it turns out.

MR. KOBELCO
06-07-2012, 04:09 PM
Yes I checked all screens with key on engine off. 0.5v-0.6v 0K on pressure sensers.
Fuel system appears good. No water in the seperator........ Will try a new filter and the water on the injector pump. There is little or no smoke from the exhaust.
Screen 14
key on engine off,, P-1 0.4mV 0K
P-2 0.5mv 0K
High idle cold,no load ,, P-1 0.5mv 6-9K flutter
P-2 0.5mV 9-11K, pretty steady at 10K
High idle warm with tracks stalled,, P-1 3.1v 316-327K
P-2 3.0v 316-326K
Sorry, didn't recheck it HOT. Thought I had found the issue with No.24 and 25

Screen 13
B-9 0.5v 0K
B-10 0.6v 1K,,, B10 would not "0" even when I moved the travel lever back and forth gently. Problem??
All so, my "mode" selector button does not function. it is stuck on H. Is there an easy fix for this?

hi,
B10 - is that key on engine off ?
or key on, engine on, pilot safety lever lock engaged or disengaged ?
you might have a bad pilot sensor depending on your answers above or sticking spool in pedal
cheers
adam

MR. KOBELCO
06-07-2012, 04:12 PM
The fact that the machine is burning MORE fuel I didn't think about a fuel restriction. If this is the issue,,,, I'll be a happy camper!!!
Thank you for your insight. Will let you know how it turns out.

hi,
i do believe is an isuzu eng
isuzu has 2 inline fuel screens hidden inside 2 of the fuel banjo bolts
1 at the inlet of fuel transfer lift pump
1 at the inlet of fuel water/sep filter
pinch off fuel line hose, remove bolt, remove screen, wash, reinstall
just in case you are unaware
cheers
adam

gregor1978
06-07-2012, 05:54 PM
Hello Mr. Kobelco,

I replaced old pilot pump with new one (12 cc/rev, set pressure at max rpm to 50 bar) today and problem is the same.
I think that machine works better up to certain oil temperature, beut when certain temperature leve isl reached problems is starting. Today I measured on tank surface 50deg. C and 60 on pump housing or main valve.
Problem is now that all attachent function lose power.
If I close bucket in sand than at certain load bucket just stopped moving and I could here only pump regulating to min. ( high freq. trrrrrrrrr) and the diesel dont fell it at all. Like if some kind of bypas would be opened on half way ( I see flexible hoese from pump moving when put under load). Than I could hold command to close the bucket for all day and will not close. If I lift a little boom and close a little arm than I could wery slowly load full bucked of sand.
The same is with arm, no moving at closing at high load and also with boom. But boom I think works slighty better than last time - but stil dont works as it should.

I noticed that gear pump pressure fals for cca. 4 bars (60psi) when I angage travel. At attachment use thre is not dro of pilot pressure at all. But this could be caused by pipe leakage. I saw on down side of control valve that somethink is leaking.
Culd flow gets away around travel relief valves?
I also measure highest temperature on the control valve in the middle of it. Where travel priority valve is located.

Any idea? I pay drink and dinner for solution...

Regards,
Gregor

MR. KOBELCO
06-07-2012, 08:53 PM
Hello Mr. Kobelco,

I replaced old pilot pump with new one (12 cc/rev, set pressure at max rpm to 50 bar) today and problem is the same.
I think that machine works better up to certain oil temperature, beut when certain temperature leve isl reached problems is starting. Today I measured on tank surface 50deg. C and 60 on pump housing or main valve.
Problem is now that all attachent function lose power.
If I close bucket in sand than at certain load bucket just stopped moving and I could here only pump regulating to min. ( high freq. trrrrrrrrr) and the diesel dont fell it at all. Like if some kind of bypas would be opened on half way ( I see flexible hoese from pump moving when put under load). Than I could hold command to close the bucket for all day and will not close. If I lift a little boom and close a little arm than I could wery slowly load full bucked of sand.
The same is with arm, no moving at closing at high load and also with boom. But boom I think works slighty better than last time - but stil dont works as it should.

I noticed that gear pump pressure fals for cca. 4 bars (60psi) when I angage travel. At attachment use thre is not dro of pilot pressure at all. But this could be caused by pipe leakage. I saw on down side of control valve that somethink is leaking.
Culd flow gets away around travel relief valves?
I also measure highest temperature on the control valve in the middle of it. Where travel priority valve is located.

Any idea? I pay drink and dinner for solution...

Regards,
Gregor

hi,
usually with the mark ii, mark iii, and mark iv models
you will see on the hyd schematic that the main hyd control valve will have 4 main reliefs
2 - travel reliefs " TR1 & TR2 "
2 - attachment reliefs " MR1 & MR2 "
the travel reliefs are usually set to limit the system pressure in the travels to 5,000 psi
the attachment reliefs are usually around 4200 psi
refer to your hyd prs specs
now with these reliefs,
the lowest relief will take control
the main pumps pass by the travel reliefs first
thru the travel spool and then down on thru the main control valve to the attachment reliefs at the ends.
what is your travel pressures at when you stall the sprockets against frame with a stalling pin ?
now you also said the hose off the hyd pump was chattering...which hyd hose ?
main line or nega-con pilot hose (pi1/pi2) ?
have you measured the hyd pump case drain flow ?

adam

armadillo
06-08-2012, 02:26 AM
hi,
B10 - is that key on engine off ?
or key on, engine on, pilot safety lever lock engaged or disengaged ?
you might have a bad pilot sensor depending on your answers above or sticking spool in pedal
cheers
adam

Adam, I believe that was high idle, hydrolics warmed up, and safty lock disengaged ( ready to work )
Also my stick cylinder, the one on top of the boom, is leaking oil externally from the seal. I have had it resealed twice. First time lasted about six months second time only lasted about a month. I don't EVER "chop" with the machine but I do run a Tramac 900 hammer sometimes. are some seal kits better than others or should I look for another shop to do my cylinder repairs ??
And yes it is an Isuzu engine.
Thank you for shareing your knowledge and insights !! If you ever make it to centrial Texas I'll buy you a steak dinner :-)

Kobe130
06-08-2012, 08:57 PM
Kobe130 Swing Problem.

Thanks GrandKobelco and Adam. I did discover a fitting with stripped threads (previous mechanic) where the fitting appeared to sit normally but as soon as I turned a hose fitting on the end it basically fell out of the swing control motor valve block. In the process of repairing it now I presume it was leaking hydraulic resulting in loss of signal to the pump regulator. Many thanks for your help.

MR. KOBELCO
06-08-2012, 11:02 PM
Adam, I believe that was high idle, hydrolics warmed up, and safty lock disengaged ( ready to work )
Also my stick cylinder, the one on top of the boom, is leaking oil externally from the seal. I have had it resealed twice. First time lasted about six months second time only lasted about a month. I don't EVER "chop" with the machine but I do run a Tramac 900 hammer sometimes. are some seal kits better than others or should I look for another shop to do my cylinder repairs ??
And yes it is an Isuzu engine.
Thank you for shareing your knowledge and insights !! If you ever make it to centrial Texas I'll buy you a steak dinner :-)

hi,
oem seals are good even better than aftermarket, but we do send off our hyd cyls to get overhauled at a reputable hyd cyl shop.
he uses aftermarket seals, and we have had no come backs.
by the way,
in regards to B10 pilot sensor,
if it is indeed providing an input signal to the c-1 cpu then the computer will think you are using your travels when you are also running the upper machine functions.
when you operate the lower travels and upper at the same time the cpu basically divides the hyd pump flows as so you are one pump for upper (P1) and the other runs the lower (P2).
i would suggest that this sensor if problem is replaced to correct machine functions.
cheers
adam

gregor1978
06-10-2012, 05:56 PM
Hello Mr. Kobelco,

I still did not diagnose the couse of problem.

One hose going on to the valve P2 is flexible and You can see when pressure raise there.
I did not have stalling pin or simmmilar so I did not measure travel relief.

I found one old block and I took out travel relief and I change it with the one on right travel block ( because it concern bucket and boom). There was no change.
I took out also main relief and replace it with one from working exavator- there was very slight difference - bucket very slowly closed. I test everythink with bucket 1,2 m3 ( largest).
With original relief valve could not close in wet mountain of soil. I heard pump regulating and relief opening but the bucket could not close. So I gues all the flow goes out over relief.


I noticed that original relief is not like it should be from catalog but it is like on SK200 sn YNU7922. It has o-ring and back up ring. I noticed that this valve Was leaking a little bit because some part of back up ring ( where it comes together) was missing and o ring there was also a little deformated. Also this time when reliefing wheezing was heared- I think that oring and back up ring on relief. But I think this leaking could not open main popet? There must be a leak on cone or between popet and housing if oil is going from spring chamber of popet to tank?
Could constant leaking on oring and back upt ring cause housing deformation?
I also put on a little bigger oring without back up ring and wheezing was canceled but bucked still could not close. If thinks ware o.k. bucket should pull machine farward.

But if I go to the last time measurment of pump going on valve block on P2 conection ( measurment was the same when I changed the pump lines).
When the boom is lifted to the end and comand for lifting is still there the flow reading for P2 was 60 l/min. If comand for lifting is relised and pressed again than flow on P2 goes only to 26 l/min.
Why regultaor once close the pump on 60 and once on 26 l/min?
Also once litfting wit flow on P2 of 60 l/min and second no lifting with 66l/min.

I also turn in the small screw for flow on regulator. When this was done machine was fater with no load and the engine felt it very hard. When put under load thinks ware the same - no power. Should I put in larger screw on regulator to regulate pump to min a little slower? I think not.

I do not have any idea more...

MR. KOBELCO
06-11-2012, 12:50 PM
Hello Mr. Kobelco,

I still did not diagnose the couse of problem.

One hose going on to the valve P2 is flexible and You can see when pressure raise there.
I did not have stalling pin or simmmilar so I did not measure travel relief.

I found one old block and I took out travel relief and I change it with the one on right travel block ( because it concern bucket and boom). There was no change.
I took out also main relief and replace it with one from working exavator- there was very slight difference - bucket very slowly closed. I test everythink with bucket 1,2 m3 ( largest).
With original relief valve could not close in wet mountain of soil. I heard pump regulating and relief opening but the bucket could not close. So I gues all the flow goes out over relief.


I noticed that original relief is not like it should be from catalog but it is like on SK200 sn YNU7922. It has o-ring and back up ring. I noticed that this valve Was leaking a little bit because some part of back up ring ( where it comes together) was missing and o ring there was also a little deformated. Also this time when reliefing wheezing was heared- I think that oring and back up ring on relief. But I think this leaking could not open main popet? There must be a leak on cone or between popet and housing if oil is going from spring chamber of popet to tank?
Could constant leaking on oring and back upt ring cause housing deformation?
I also put on a little bigger oring without back up ring and wheezing was canceled but bucked still could not close. If thinks ware o.k. bucket should pull machine farward.

But if I go to the last time measurment of pump going on valve block on P2 conection ( measurment was the same when I changed the pump lines).
When the boom is lifted to the end and comand for lifting is still there the flow reading for P2 was 60 l/min. If comand for lifting is relised and pressed again than flow on P2 goes only to 26 l/min.
Why regultaor once close the pump on 60 and once on 26 l/min?
Also once litfting wit flow on P2 of 60 l/min and second no lifting with 66l/min.

I also turn in the small screw for flow on regulator. When this was done machine was fater with no load and the engine felt it very hard. When put under load thinks ware the same - no power. Should I put in larger screw on regulator to regulate pump to min a little slower? I think not.

I do not have any idea more...

hi gregor,
first thing, i agree do NOT attempt to adjust any of the hyd pump adjustment screws.
i have a few questions...
1) when accessing the serviceman's maint screens in cab display (dash), are you able to read an engine rpm "comp value" and when the engine is running does it read the rpm sensor "measure value" ?
2) are you able to tee into both the "pi1"/"pi2" pilot hoses with 1,000 psi hyd prs gauges ?
as well as get into the hyd pressure test port located on the pf solenoid manifold block itself too ?
3) i ask to record and advise the pi1/pi2 nega-con hyd pressures in neutral - both at engine lo-idle and then both at hi-idle "H" mode
4) i ask to record the pf solenoid proportional hyd prs at hi-idle "H" mode, and when you operate the machine does the c-1 computer vary this hyd pressure during movements ?
5) i ask that you then pay very close attention when,
- have arm all the way in to cab
- then moving the stick (arm) out away from cab - quick full stroke of joystick control lever - during engine hi-idle "H" mode
- monitor the pf solenoid hyd pressure gauge and also in the cab dash the engine rpm drop during this movement
6) please then report this hard data for review
thanks
adam

Oliver
06-11-2012, 06:56 PM
Hello, Mr. Kobelco

We have a SK45 Kobelco serial# PY03114. We have tried to find some information on the year model, and if in fact it is a SK45 I have ask Kobelco, They cannot locate the serial number. I am sure the machine was Imported. Will you help me?

Thank you
Oliver

Iron Mechanical
06-12-2012, 12:18 AM
I finally got a S/N kobelko sk350lc yc08u1942 with engine abjo8etm the engine has a miss is there any way to isolate the injectors electronicly and can I pull fault codes through the dash. Where can I get a manual for this model I have found online manuals for all the older machines but nothing for the tier 3 machines. Thanks Jason

kp100
06-12-2012, 07:49 PM
SK 60 1995 LE-17572. Well after 100 hours of on again off again service screen showing the wrench symbol it is back on for good. Worked fine all last week, run every day. Sat over the weekend and now have nothing but the wrench. After 2 days I guess it is not coming back on. Found a very recent Cluster controller but am hesitate at buying a third one. Still no clue as to why they fail or even if that is the problem. Should I be changing the wiring harness before ruining a third controller? How much is a new harness installed???
In too deep now.

MR. KOBELCO
06-13-2012, 09:49 PM
Hello, Mr. Kobelco

We have a SK45 Kobelco serial# PY03114. We have tried to find some information on the year model, and if in fact it is a SK45 I have ask Kobelco, They cannot locate the serial number. I am sure the machine was Imported. Will you help me?

Thank you
Oliver

hi Oliver,
please e-mail me direct @ hf_hydraulics@hotmail.com
i'll see what i can muster up and send you.
sorry for delayed response.
adam

MR. KOBELCO
06-13-2012, 10:01 PM
I finally got a S/N kobelko sk350lc yc08u1942 with engine abjo8etm the engine has a miss is there any way to isolate the injectors electronicly and can I pull fault codes through the dash. Where can I get a manual for this model I have found online manuals for all the older machines but nothing for the tier 3 machines. Thanks Jason

hi Jason,
i believe/think in an earlier post of yours i suggested that it would be best that you give me a call at work.
i'm in ontario.
my work # 1-905-888-9070
be sure to specifically ask to speak with me.
plus please e-mail me at " hf_hydraulics@hotmail.com " too.
ser# helps, its a hino j08e diesel eng
it has a separate ecu for eng and special hino dx software only released to the kobelco dealers if they made the expense to purchase it.
the only way to isolate fuel inj is with the software
if any fault codes displayed they'd be stored in the dash error history
as for a shop manual $500.00 - $600.00 dollars
i may have mentioned in my earlier post as well about bad fuel, contaminants such as a single water droplet will steam the tip off the fuel injector
i sell oem new replacements cheaper than i can purchase off cnh/kob themselves.
but you need hino dx software to program codes of each inj in the cyl you installed
likely due to water in fuel tank from condensation, dirty fuel or the use of non-apples-to-apples aftermarket fuel filters will cost you in these new common rail fuel systems.
the sk350 and some other models offer a opt kit to better the existing fuel filtration system in more severe working environments.
its worth the expense for if not we had one customer whom had to learn this themselves after we stressed what effects would be,...$ 10k later
he is now listening and will not chance any aftermarket filters.
call me if you want any help.
take care, chat tomorrow
adam

MR. KOBELCO
06-13-2012, 10:04 PM
SK 60 1995 LE-17572. Well after 100 hours of on again off again service screen showing the wrench symbol it is back on for good. Worked fine all last week, run every day. Sat over the weekend and now have nothing but the wrench. After 2 days I guess it is not coming back on. Found a very recent Cluster controller but am hesitate at buying a third one. Still no clue as to why they fail or even if that is the problem. Should I be changing the wiring harness before ruining a third controller? How much is a new harness installed???
In too deep now.

hi,
please e-mail me at " hf_hydraulics@hotmail.com "
have your mailing address etc...
i'll quote you, but i'd want it at my shop this way i'll be on-hand to oversee the job myself.
adam

Pane
06-15-2012, 02:21 AM
G'day

I'm in Australia and have a sk120 mark 5 super, the computer screen is all grainy and can't be read easily, where can I order on from? I checked with the dealer here and they wanted $1200.
MOdel number is lp15880

Cheers

gregor1978
06-17-2012, 06:10 PM
Hello Mr. Kobelco,

I was on Linde hydraulics service training in Germany and was not able to reply You faster than now.
I will measure those values and than report to You next time when wisit this machine.
Now when I see this machine shematis of hydraulics system when I close eyes, I think that maybe also travel priority valve could couse this problem. Theoreticaly if this valve stucks in the midle position could cause pressure drop across itself. I dont know how big this p drop could be - but if big enaugh some power could be wasted there and than less will be awailable for other attachment.
Because bucket with pressure of 280 bar should pull complete machine when closing ( extending buck. cylinder). This machine reach max pressure and have no power. I think if everithink normal working this machine should pull itself with bucket at 250 bar?
On my first visit I noticed that cold machine had power on all attachments and than geting hotter power starting to go away..At that time I also noticed from pi signals that pump 1 is not engageing when closing the arm under full load, because pi1 was cca. 50 bar so pump 1 was at min. Also when closing arm under heavy loads for pump conflux is responsible travel priority valve and also arm conflux sequence.

On my last visit power on bucket was missing already when machine was cold.

Could all that be somehow conected that firstly problem started with wormer oil and now is present already with cold - i think now on travel priority and conflux pilot ?
What You think?

Thanks,
Gregor

Vivian
06-19-2012, 03:35 AM
Mr. Adam, thanks so much.......

gregor1978
06-19-2012, 06:17 PM
Hi Mr. Kobelco,

Today I pass by machine and I quickly measure some values.
1.) I could read engine rpm.
660 rpm and pf=30 bar
1300 rpm and pf=16 bar
1500-2150 rpm pf= 20 bar

2.) Yes, but today I did not have the time to measure Pi1 and pi2.
3.) Last time wasboth Pi at full speed 48 bar
4.) Yes at engine full speed 2150 rpm comp. vary the pf pressure. Like:
boom up 24 bar and 36 bar when reaching end
bucket opening 18 bar and 18 when reaching end

bucket closing 16 and 20 when reaching end for two seconds and than 16


arm retracting 10 bar and 30 bar when reaching end
arm opening 30 bar and 20 bar when reaching end


5.) ful rpm 2150 and starting arm away from cab pf goes dynamic 22bar-30-40 and 20 when reaching the end
rpm fell down from 2150 to 2073-2053
6.) raising boom 2150 rpm pf: 26-30- and stops at 40 rpm
rpm fell down to 2057-2029

Regards,
Gregor

MR. KOBELCO
06-19-2012, 07:28 PM
Hi Mr. Kobelco,

Today I pass by machine and I quickly measure some values.
1.) I could read engine rpm.
660 rpm and pf=30 bar
1300 rpm and pf=16 bar
1500-2150 rpm pf= 20 bar

2.) Yes, but today I did not have the time to measure Pi1 and pi2.
3.) Last time wasboth Pi at full speed 48 bar
4.) Yes at engine full speed 2150 rpm comp. vary the pf pressure. Like:
boom up 24 bar and 36 bar when reaching end
bucket opening 18 bar and 18 when reaching end

bucket closing 16 and 20 when reaching end for two seconds and than 16


arm retracting 10 bar and 30 bar when reaching end
arm opening 30 bar and 20 bar when reaching end


5.) ful rpm 2150 and starting arm away from cab pf goes dynamic 22bar-30-40 and 20 when reaching the end
rpm fell down from 2150 to 2073-2053
6.) raising boom 2150 rpm pf: 26-30- and stops at 40 rpm
rpm fell down to 2057-2029

Regards,
Gregor

hi,
note:
engine specs
lo-idle = 875 rpm ( +/- 25 )
H mode (hi-idle) = 2320 rpm
S mode (hi-idle) = 2000 rpm
FC mode (hi-idle) = 1600 rpm
DECEL = 1050 rpm
( +/- 50 rpm )

pf sol hyd pressure at hi-idle under no load = 3 bar maximum

note: on arm in digging if the primary hyd pump (p2) does not reach X pressure the secondary pump (p1) which confluxes in to help will not receive the signal
from the arm sequence valve.

i am leaning to your fuel injection pump is worn out.
your engine rpms are low plus your pf solenoid pressures seem too high.

cheers
adam

MR. KOBELCO
06-19-2012, 07:33 PM
G'day

I'm in Australia and have a sk120 mark 5 super, the computer screen is all grainy and can't be read easily, where can I order on from? I checked with the dealer here and they wanted $1200.
MOdel number is lp15880

Cheers

hi,
$ 1200 seems a fair price.
the cab display part number is locked off to my region on that model.
i have sold cab displays (which are a computer themselves too - " C3 ") for $ 2000.00 cad +
that seems cheap to me.
if much for you, try googling people have told me theyre available aftermarket out of singapore ?
adam

gregor1978
06-20-2012, 06:17 PM
92070
hi,
note:
engine specs
lo-idle = 875 rpm ( +/- 25 )
H mode (hi-idle) = 2320 rpm
S mode (hi-idle) = 2000 rpm
FC mode (hi-idle) = 1600 rpm
DECEL = 1050 rpm
( +/- 50 rpm )

pf sol hyd pressure at hi-idle under no load = 3 bar maximum

note: on arm in digging if the primary hyd pump (p2) does not reach X pressure the secondary pump (p1) which confluxes in to help will not receive the signal
from the arm sequence valve.

i am leaning to your fuel injection pump is worn out.
your engine rpms are low plus your pf solenoid pressures seem too high.

cheers
adam

Hi Mr. Kobelco,

What you write is all true but is not the main problem. When I disconect the el .wire to Pf solenoid, all problems are still there and also engine stalls when you push pump to hard. If I tried realy hard to lift lift ful bucket of rocks I coukd lift it litle more quicker than whith computer help.

What I found up:

1.) when prop valve disconected pf=0
2.) I tried to close bucket ( to fill it with 1-3 inch rocks) but bucket did not want to close and the pressure riest in moment to 290 bars ( I monitor only P1) and pump regulatet to 0 I think and engine did not felt enythink.
Than I pull right travel comand when all machine was blocked with bucket in rocks and I saw that travel relief is set to 350 bars. After that I pull travel comand to cca. 300 bar and also engage bucket for diging. Than sudenly bucket started to move ( close and loading the rocks) at pressure of cca. 200-250 bar. After that bucket and boom worked almost good ( but cca. 1/3 to slow) and arm still did not have power to tow complet machine when closing.
When bucked now was closing under heavy load I could here whiseling from valve I think.

I also notice that full loaded bucket is lifting with boom at 150 bar and real slow.
So I think that travel limiter could be cought somwere in the middle and throttle main flow. So could that be the couse? Could pilot pressure which suppose to lift the travel priority spool againstthe springs when engaging both travel and attachment leaks to that spool wheen it should not?
I attached the picture from which I think that is seen that this spool is forced in upper position ( from brown color which sould be oposide with bright part).
I will try to attach the immage here.

Regards,
Gregor

ser repair
06-20-2012, 07:04 PM
I'm trying to get some help with locating the ports and fitting sizes for a sk210lc, s/n yoo7-uo978. For now I think I need to check the main pump(s) and pilot pressure ports. Problems are reported and seem to be 1. lack of didding power especially with the stick and bucket while cold. I have been told it get's worse after warming up. 2. the swing creeps even when cold. It has a Kawasaki pump with #'s as best as I can read "type" K3V112DTP.
Thanks for any help,
Ser

gregor1978
06-21-2012, 05:14 PM
92070

Hi Mr. Kobelco,

What you write is all true but is not the main problem. When I disconect the el .wire to Pf solenoid, all problems are still there and also engine stalls when you push pump to hard. If I tried realy hard to lift lift ful bucket of rocks I coukd lift it litle more quicker than whith computer help.

What I found up:

1.) when prop valve disconected pf=0
2.) I tried to close bucket ( to fill it with 1-3 inch rocks) but bucket did not want to close and the pressure riest in moment to 290 bars ( I monitor only P1) and pump regulatet to 0 I think and engine did not felt enythink.
Than I pull right travel comand when all machine was blocked with bucket in rocks and I saw that travel relief is set to 350 bars. After that I pull travel comand to cca. 300 bar and also engage bucket for diging. Than sudenly bucket started to move ( close and loading the rocks) at pressure of cca. 200-250 bar. After that bucket and boom worked almost good ( but cca. 1/3 to slow) and arm still did not have power to tow complet machine when closing.
When bucked now was closing under heavy load I could here whiseling from valve I think.

I also notice that full loaded bucket is lifting with boom at 150 bar and real slow.
So I think that travel limiter could be cought somwere in the middle and throttle main flow. So could that be the couse? Could pilot pressure which suppose to lift the travel priority spool againstthe springs when engaging both travel and attachment leaks to that spool wheen it should not?
I attached the picture from which I think that is seen that this spool is forced in upper position ( from brown color which sould be oposide with bright part).
I will try to attach the immage here.

Regards,
Gregor

I realy think that travel block is either defective or have some problem with piloting travel priorty spool. But how could I test that be sure?
I could check pressure which come from A2 ( independant travel valve), but how could I see that servo pressure does not leak throgh travel spool and goes to travel prioriti valve to engage it?
Or how could I test travel block for leaking? Normaly P1 should go from A port to D port but if leaking from A to C flow could be throtled and reliefed than to tank on arm side section of the block.

Regards,
Gregor

rioncrsn
06-21-2012, 09:28 PM
1) are you having trouble searching for new o.e.m., remanufactured, reconditioned, or new aftermarket replacement parts?
2) is your machine acting up and not running the way it should?
3) do you require help pin-pointing the root cause of the problem?
4) do you have any unanswered questions?
5) are you looking for manuals specific to your model and by serial number?

please post your topics here. i will do my best to help out.
as i am also sure and gladly invite the other experienced kobelco mechanics on this forum to ring in with advice as well!

thank-you!
:)
i have a kobelco sk 150 all the hyd. work good except the lift boom had a frien of mine, which is an older man and retired mechanic look at it. he said after running it that a solenoid was not working properly and telling the second pump to cut on when the lift boom was being used. just wondering if you agree and if so were do i look for this solenoid and is it something i can fix myself. Thanks in advance.

MR. KOBELCO
06-22-2012, 12:16 PM
I'm trying to get some help with locating the ports and fitting sizes for a sk210lc, s/n yoo7-uo978. For now I think I need to check the main pump(s) and pilot pressure ports. Problems are reported and seem to be 1. lack of didding power especially with the stick and bucket while cold. I have been told it get's worse after warming up. 2. the swing creeps even when cold. It has a Kawasaki pump with #'s as best as I can read "type" K3V112DTP.
Thanks for any help,
Ser

hi,
please e-mail me at hf_hydraulics@hotmail.com
plus also call me when you're sitting in the cab seat we can diagnose over the phone on your machine.
work# 905-888-9070
home# 905-697-9626
cheers
adam

MR. KOBELCO
06-22-2012, 12:23 PM
i have a kobelco sk 150 all the hyd. work good except the lift boom had a frien of mine, which is an older man and retired mechanic look at it. he said after running it that a solenoid was not working properly and telling the second pump to cut on when the lift boom was being used. just wondering if you agree and if so were do i look for this solenoid and is it something i can fix myself. Thanks in advance.

hi,
- serial number is incomplete
- is engine mitsubishi or cummins engine ?
- boom raise is supposed to be both pumps on lifting
- there is NOT a solenoid to turn second pump (conflux) on or off
the hyd circuit uses tees and a times shuttles within the hyd fittings and/or shuttles inside the main hyd control valve itself
- when you say boom raise does not work good - i need better full explanation of whats wrong
thx
adam

huynhvantoan
06-25-2012, 05:23 AM
Dear Mr Kobelco,

I have problem with my excavator Kobelco SK210LC-6, Seri No: Y008-U1914.
This excavator work very slow suddenly, i need some information to check and repair.
I have many shop manual, but i don not have Shop Manual Kobelco SK200-6.
Please sent me your advise,
If you have document, can you share for me?
Thank you very much!

Huynh Van Toan

MR. KOBELCO
06-25-2012, 10:35 AM
Dear Mr Kobelco,

I have problem with my excavator Kobelco SK210LC-6, Seri No: Y008-U1914.
This excavator work very slow suddenly, i need some information to check and repair.
I have many shop manual, but i don not have Shop Manual Kobelco SK200-6.
Please sent me your advise,
If you have document, can you share for me?
Thank you very much!

Huynh Van Toan

hi,
you will likely find that it is simply either the straight travel switch has been turned on, or the heavy lift switch is turned on,
or could even be a bad sensor, etc...
cheers
adam

digger104
06-28-2012, 06:44 AM
If you don't mind i'll dive in hear cause free advice is worth everything you pay it. If you think you might be getting bleed off oil thru a joystick you can put a hyd gage at the pilot hose at the boom spool, use a low pressure gage. When you drop your lever lock watch you gage and see if you get a rise in pressure. However this would be rare, must drift problems are packings or port releif valves. Always remember, KOBELCO'S ARE FUN!

I have resealed my pilot control, held for a while, now back to leaking, priced the brass in certs and chrome plungers, boys are they expensive, I will get over 200 dollars per set and there is 4 in each control. It is making a mess in the cab but a paper towel wrapped around the chrome plungers help, but in the end I have to fix right.

Vivian
06-28-2012, 10:14 PM
Hi Bert304,
Your KOBELCO 's same like this?? If yes. I give you the electric diagram of it

http://i199.photobucket.com/albums/aa156/A2Z_028/SK200-6.png

http://www.mediafire.com/?wqsisxc8bkyww4i

The SK200-6 photo is nice

james_stevens
07-01-2012, 09:33 PM
Dear Mr Kobelco,


I have a Kobelco sk150 lc mark 4 ymu 1123 Recently i purchased a wringing harness part number 2479u1944 i was told that this harness replaces old harness #2479u1808 but when I compared the old harness to the new one connection is missing from the new harness that is connection e11 to a resister so what do i do all the other connections on the harness seem to look the same. Did kobleco do away with this connector. Will it hurt anything installing this knew harness and running the machine.

Thanks for your help
James

Irish Cyril
07-02-2012, 08:35 AM
Anyone know how to bypass the sensor that prevents the bucket from hitting the cab in a 2007 135SR?

oldequip
07-02-2012, 09:32 AM
Anyone know how to bypass the sensor that prevents the bucket from hitting the cab in a 2007 135SR?

That doesn't sound safe.....you trying to sabotage someones equipment ?

MR. KOBELCO
07-02-2012, 08:17 PM
Dear Mr Kobelco,


I have a Kobelco sk150 lc mark 4 ymu 1123 Recently i purchased a wringing harness part number 2479u1944 i was told that this harness replaces old harness #2479u1808 but when I compared the old harness to the new one connection is missing from the new harness that is connection e11 to a resister so what do i do all the other connections on the harness seem to look the same. Did kobleco do away with this connector. Will it hurt anything installing this knew harness and running the machine.

Thanks for your help
James

hi james,
i am not seeing that the old # supercedes to this newer #.
please e-mail me directly at " hf_hydraulics@hotmail.com "
and i'll look into this tomorrow and send you off some info/stuff.
cheers!
adam

MR. KOBELCO
07-02-2012, 08:29 PM
Many of you have known me through the Heavy Equipment Forum (HEF) posts, Senior Member status joined back in July of 2008, and my helping you with sorting out problems with either your Kobelco or MDI/Yutani hydraulic excavators. I have launched my own forum (paid membership only) of which one can join for less than a cup of coffee per day. Equal to a quarter to half of what it costs for one on-site service call made by your local dealership. This paid subscription would result in allowing you the ability to reach me 24/7 for a period of one years’ time. Members will receive additional benefits offered.
The forum is setup in such a way, that over a short period of time, it will begin compiling a working technical library of common problems that can occur in a machine’s lifetime. These libraries will be unique to each type and generation of machine.
Beginning today I will no longer be posting on the HEF.
You can now find me at any of these 2 links i have provided below.
Homepage: http://www.*******************/index.php/en/
Forum: http://www.*******************/forum/forum.php
To register, simply click the link below;
http://www.*******************/forum/register.php
I look forward to transferring my product knowledge that i have learned over the years on to you.
Thank-you for your time and support.
Best regards,
Adam Fairchild, a.k.a. Mr. Kobelco
HF Hydraulics
56 Brooking Street
Bowmanville, Ontario
Canada L1C 5L5
tel: 1-905-697-9626
e-mail: mr.kobelco@******************* or hf_hydraulics@hotmail.com
Skype ID: mr.kobelco

willie59
07-02-2012, 09:22 PM
Best wishes for your new adventure Mr Kobelco, you will be missed here at HEF. ;)

stock
07-02-2012, 09:26 PM
Best of luck Adam and I echo Willies words you will be sadly missed. Thank you for all the help you have given while here.

grandkobelco
07-05-2012, 07:15 PM
It was fun reading the post of a man who knew what he was talking about. Good luck. wes

Vivian
07-16-2012, 09:57 AM
thank for sharing ......

finaldrive
07-18-2012, 04:10 PM
Adam, can we contra our charges for final drive advice? haha

armadillo
07-19-2012, 12:09 AM
hi,
oem seals are good even better than aftermarket, but we do send off our hyd cyls to get overhauled at a reputable hyd cyl shop.
he uses aftermarket seals, and we have had no come backs.
by the way,
in regards to B10 pilot sensor,
if it is indeed providing an input signal to the c-1 cpu then the computer will think you are using your travels when you are also running the upper machine functions.
when you operate the lower travels and upper at the same time the cpu basically divides the hyd pump flows as so you are one pump for upper (P1) and the other runs the lower (P2).
i would suggest that this sensor if problem is replaced to correct machine functions.
cheers
adam

Hey Adam,, well the injector pump has been rebuilt and fuel filter and screens cleaned. Machine runs and operates much better but still having a over heating problem. Could the B10 pilot sensor be causing the hyd to over heat ?

jasonjames
07-19-2012, 12:02 PM
hi sir,
i have a 2004 kobelco sk200- 6e serial number: yn0834669. i have several problems:
(1) i realize that while i am working with the boom and stick that the track is very slow, but whenever i stop working it tracks fine.
(2) the tracks also tend to pull to the right with the idler facing from. can i find out what is the cause for this.
(3)also the machine is working very slow, i was gettin some errors and i change all the solenoids and the errors stopped, but the machine is still slow, i tried disconnecting the rev control on the engine and started working a little faster but when i connect it back it get back extremely slow.

can u help me please because the machine is parked.
i also need a shop manual for this machine

jf 88
07-22-2012, 04:17 AM
good day i have dis kobelco sk 07 already has 4824 hrs, until now my unit still working good until the red light indicator goes on. i think its hydr. oil indicator, but i already check the level its ok. what do you think the cause of it? tnx

eamon
07-31-2012, 05:31 PM
Hi there,
we have a fiat kobelco e165 yr 2004 showing "pump p1 sensor" on dash with S-E symbol also showing.
Also it slows down the hydrualics, but if you strain the hydrualics then and clunk is heard then the hydrualics return to almost normal.
Which sensor would this be?

jf 88
08-01-2012, 12:13 PM
Hi there,
we have a fiat kobelco e165 yr 2004 showing "pump p1 sensor" on dash with S-E symbol also showing.
Also it slows down the hydrualics, but if you strain the hydrualics then and clunk is heard then the hydrualics return to almost normal.
Which sensor would this be?

hi, my kobelco still working good nothing change the way its working, only the red light with the bulb like shape with tear drop shape inside and two arrow both side which pointing inside the bulb like shape indicator i know it is for hydraulic sensor. tnx

jf 88
08-01-2012, 12:15 PM
also sometime when i let hi idling of he engine the light goes out but just a few minute it goes on again

equipmenttech
08-02-2012, 12:00 PM
I have a SK115SRDZ that stays at full throttle, screen says H-2 Machatro set error & cpu under the H-2, only way to throttle down is unplug step motor or pull fuse, replaced & cleaned battery cables, has good voltage, local dealer says they need to hook to laptop, another dealer says calibrate with switches, not fimilair with this unit looking for some help, I ohmed the switch appears ok & checked all fuses

ben46a
08-05-2012, 04:03 PM
FYI kobelco owners, if you're having trouble tracking down engine trouble codes, check the egnine elictrical harness, physically pull the wires out of the split loom. Our SK485 with 2100 hrs had a fuel solenoid code and it turned out the wires had chaffed on the inside of the couragated loom.harness was replaced and wires were removed from loom on new harness, wrapped in anti friction tape and reinserted in loom before reinstalling.

Pane
08-06-2012, 01:29 AM
G'day

I've got a sk120 mark v super and it needs the ram seals done on the dipper arm, what's the easiest way to remove this ram?

Also it's got a lot of slop in the hitch pins at the base of the dipper arms and the rubber rings are just float in fresh air, can I get some shims or something to fix this up?

Cheers

ben46a
08-06-2012, 02:18 PM
Curl the stick all the way under, set down, then lift up on boom to get the strain off the pins. Pull the pin at top of dipper arm, retract cylinder and tie the eye back to the barrel to keep it from sliding out when hosses are undone. Let pressure off hydraulic tank, remove and cap lines, sling cylinder and remove upper pin.

sulli2009
08-07-2012, 10:01 AM
I need some help with a SK200LC-3 stepping motor problems. the machine shows a 1 check on the screen, but it has been showing that for a while. the machine was running then just died thought it may have blown a fuse after checking them it cranked back up, ran for about 10 min did it again. it has constantly got worse until the stepping motor won't do anything. i changed the stepping motor out thinking it may be bad, put the new motor on and it worked one time. Any help or pointers would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

equipmenttech
08-07-2012, 10:43 PM
G'day

I've got a sk120 mark v super and it needs the ram seals done on the dipper arm, what's the easiest way to remove this ram?

Also it's got a lot of slop in the hitch pins at the base of the dipper arms and the rubber rings are just float in fresh air, can I get some shims or something to fix this up?

Cheers

I reseal lots of excavator cylinders in the field, I have a portable cylinder bench that I load in my truck, so I only remove the barrel if it is damaged 99 percent of the time I leave the barrel on the machine, set the bucket flat, take pressure off rod end pin & remove pin, clean the cylinder, loosen the hydraulic cap on tank, remove rod end hose or line & the cylinder head, put a large drain pan below the cylinder & strap on the rod to support the rod, I use the crane on my truck but can use a skidsteer or etc, put a block of wood between the barrel & stck to hold the cylinder out so the rod, does not contact the bucket linkage, start the machine & very slowly feather the rod out, be ready to stop & shut off imediatly, duct tape a garbage bag over the open cylinder to keep clean, keep the rod & piston protected, I think you will want to take to shop for them to remove the piston & head to replace the seals, inspect the barrel, if light scratches, it can be honed just wash very good with soap before assembly until all contamination is removed check with white towel with oil film to be sure it is clean, the line at the rear of the cylinder will need to be loosened to push the rod back in, lube components with clean oil, finish install, this process means not having to deal with the weight of the entire cylinder & only 1 pin needs to be removed. your damaged pin seal area you may want to find someone wth a portable line bore machine, they can weld up & machine back to original on site, they may want it in a building to keep wind away while welding

Pane
08-08-2012, 04:26 AM
G'day

Thanks for the replies fellas.
I've got the local hydraulic specialist lined up to do the job on the rams so it's just a matter of getting them out, hopefully it won't be too hard.

As for the hitch pins, would new pins cure any of the problem or would all parts involved be worn?

Cheers

grandkobelco
08-09-2012, 06:08 AM
I have a SK115SRDZ that stays at full throttle, screen says H-2 Machatro set error & cpu under the H-2, only way to throttle down is unplug step motor or pull fuse, replaced & cleaned battery cables, has good voltage, local dealer says they need to hook to laptop, another dealer says calibrate with switches, not fimilair with this unit looking for some help, I ohmed the switch appears ok & checked all fuses

I have a feeling you are going to need a new cpu. But before you replace it you must check all the 24V inputs and grounds. you also must check the wireing to the steping motor and the motor itself with a ohm meter. Do not use a test light for any of this. The second dealership is correct by saying you adjust rpm settings by a series of button pushes.

grandkobelco
08-09-2012, 06:18 AM
I need some help with a SK200LC-3 stepping motor problems. the machine shows a 1 check on the screen, but it has been showing that for a while. the machine was running then just died thought it may have blown a fuse after checking them it cranked back up, ran for about 10 min did it again. it has constantly got worse until the stepping motor won't do anything. i changed the stepping motor out thinking it may be bad, put the new motor on and it worked one time. Any help or pointers would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

Did the dash work corectly before the 1 check showed up? You need a functioning dash to do a "A" adjustment. If that 1 check is still there after the new steping motor was instaled you still got problems. Could be C1, C2, or the dash itself. I recomend a local dealer for testing, this can be tricky.

channing76
08-09-2012, 02:10 PM
I have a sk25sr and i have poor power to everything the two speed selonoid and lock sel dont work can they be bypassed will either of those cause the problems im having no power to dig or push only has power with boom up when i do two functions either arm out and boom up then the boom will raise iv checked all the lines to see if they are in the right spot. thank you channing

sulli2009
08-09-2012, 02:21 PM
when i got the machine the fuse was out of the dash but during the winter i cleaned the inside up and put a fuse in there and the screen has been saying one check for a while. What would be the best way to start troubleshooting farther other than going to the dealer?

equipmenttech
08-09-2012, 08:44 PM
thanks for the info. I read my post & noticed I did not say that this problem started after the machine had not been used for weeks & that the battery cables were very corroded, so I suspect it had low voltage I did not check voltage until after replacing cables, 27V off & 29V running, we do not have manuals or schematics to make the checks are the connections marked as to grd. & power & etc. or is there reference material on line or will we need to purchase, the motor goes toward full with the key on & will drop to idle if motor is unplugged, does not contact the governor stops either way, can something still be wrong with the motor or is it more of a control issue or wiring? Is H-2 a pressure sensor?

tylermckee
08-10-2012, 12:24 AM
Can anyone tell me what kind of flow the aux circuit on a sk115srdz will put out? I know the total of both pumps, but want to know what it will put to the aux with the valve set to "breaker"

Van Koop
08-11-2012, 05:18 PM
I need some help with a SK200LC-3 stepping motor problems. the machine shows a 1 check on the screen, but it has been showing that for a while. the machine was running then just died thought it may have blown a fuse after checking them it cranked back up, ran for about 10 min did it again. it has constantly got worse until the stepping motor won't do anything. i changed the stepping motor out thinking it may be bad, put the new motor on and it worked one time. Any help or pointers would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

I had the same thing .erratic movement of the stepper moter and woudnt shut off. Turned out to be c-1 controller driver chip. Found a new computer from Australia dealer for $1300. Put it in and did a adjustment worked great ever since. I replaced the stepper motor first and figured out that didn't help.

FiftyCal
08-13-2012, 08:26 PM
1) are you having trouble searching for new o.e.m., remanufactured, reconditioned, or new aftermarket replacement parts?
2) is your machine acting up and not running the way it should?
3) do you require help pin-pointing the root cause of the problem?
4) do you have any unanswered questions?
5) are you looking for manuals specific to your model and by serial number?

please post your topics here. i will do my best to help out.
as i am also sure and gladly invite the other experienced kobelco mechanics on this forum to ring in with advice as well!

thank-you!
:)

Hi Mr. Kobelco


I have a SK45 SR-2 ser# PJ02-00481

The problem is the boom settles rather quickly like from full height to the ground in under 2 mins. This obviously gets worse as the machine gets hotter. I know everyone wants to blame the boom cylinder but it has no external leaks and I have run the cylinder to the ends and removed the hyd. hose from the opposite end I was putting pressure to to see how much fluid was leaking inside the cylinder and it was minimal. I have tried to get some good pressure tests but due to the odd fittings Kobelco uses I am having a hard time setting up the test ports. I also tried switching the load check poppet with another valve bank with no difference at all.

I am thinking it has to be the lock mechanism in the boom control valve bank. Please let me know if that sounds like a good route to go? Or if theres a way to test it?

Thank you a lot for opening your knowledge to us

Fifty Cal

FiftyCal
08-13-2012, 08:42 PM
Sorry didnt read the entire thread anyone else have any ideas??

kp100
08-14-2012, 10:20 AM
Update on wrench service screen. After having very little hair left in my head discovered that by pushing on the circuit board in the display that the display lights would work. Just had to apply the right pressure to the board and the screen would work. Found a used board and installed. Has been working right ever since. Hopefully that was the issue.

Good luck Van Koop and thanks to Mr. Kobelco for trying to help.

shinigamix2x
08-17-2012, 10:01 AM
SK210LC Mark 8 (S/N:YQ09) Cab Assembly, complete with the engine/pump controller, operator controls with pilot assembly, electrical harness, glass windows etc... would anyone know where i can get a used one to purchase, or perhaps brand new as well...
Thank you for your time.

12Andrew34
08-17-2012, 10:08 PM
Hi Guys,
Not sure if I'm doing this right, I'm new ;-)
I'm in Queensland Australia and I've purchased a used SK70SR and I'm wanted to buy a service manual (full workshop manual) and parts manual but I'm not sure of the exact one to cover my machine. Some are listed as SK70SR-1E, what does the -1E mean?
The machine details are as follows;
Kobelco SK70SR (as far as I can tell)
Serial # YT03-05936
Supposed to have been an Australian sold machine (not grey import)
Year model 2004

Any help appreciated Guys.
Regards
Andrew

12Andrew34
08-18-2012, 04:37 AM
Hi Guys,
It has the offset boom opotion as well, might make a difference?
Any help appreciated Guys.

Regards
Andrew

Bauskac
08-21-2012, 12:55 AM
Hi this is Chuck from Kalama, WA. I have been having the same issues with my sk60. My display started showing the wrench, I could remove the 5amp controller fuse, re-install and it would work fine until it shut the key off. Now that trick no longer works. I...like you have spent lots of hours inspecting harnesses and plugs, grounds etc... I sent the contoller to a couple of electronic shops and was told by each that it was a faulty "e-prom chip" which is Kobelco proprietary. I finally purchased a new controller...same issue! I have also changed my key switch. Any updates on yours?

grandkobelco
08-23-2012, 06:04 AM
The wrench symbal on the dash is always bad news for the owner of a older kobelco machine. Before you start changing componets make sure that you have the corect 24v inputs and grounds on both the c1 controller and c2 controller. The c2 controller is the one that controls the cluster gage. You can gently remove the cover and look inside for water damadge or burned circut boards. You can do the same to the dash. There is no good way to test the componets themselvs.

Bauskac
08-23-2012, 09:45 AM
Thanks for the reply, I have looked at the circuit boards in both the c-2 controller and the dash display, I don't see anything there that looks faulty. I was suprised that when I plugged in the new controller I bought, I had the same wrench on the display. Since my service manual indicates that when the wrench symbol is displayed, it means the c-2 controller is not functioning properly....what are the chances that the new controller that I purchased is defective too? If I brought the controller into my Kobelco dealership, maybe they can plug it into a machine that is known to funtion to see if my controller works on theirs? Do you know how many different machines that same controller fits?

Thanks.
Chuck

grandkobelco
08-23-2012, 07:58 PM
If your dealer is realy nice and has a comparable machine they can do this, I have done this for testing. It's not often but the wrench sign can mean a bad dash. Have you checked 24v and ground at the c-2 Also check continiuty between gage and c-2.

largede
08-24-2012, 01:29 AM
I've just purchased a 1997 Kobelco SK020 with just under 4000 hours on it. It was only ever used to dig graves. Rubber tracks 18 months old, all hydrolics gone though and rebuilt six months ago, all PM done and documented, doesn't leave a spot on the deck underneath. It's a great running machine. My question is, does anyone know anything about it? I haven't been able to find any documentation on the web, not even what it's rated for. There isn't anything on the machine itself in English. Any information on it would be well appreciated.
Thanks in advance!!

Alabama
08-24-2012, 01:41 PM
Mr.Kobelco, I have a Kobelco
Sticker # 13832
Model # SK25sr-2
S / N PVO9-22655
It's got a Yanmar model - 3TNE74-ENYBB

I would love to have a repair Manuel for it but my question for now, there is an adjustment device of some sort under a small cover plate about half way Down the right side ( sitting on the machine ). Is this some sort of flow control or something else? One more, is there a way to adjust the hyd. Pressure to the track drive motors. The right track seems to have less power than the left.

Thank you for your help.

Bauskac
08-26-2012, 12:31 AM
If your dealer is realy nice and has a comparable machine they can do this, I have done this for testing. It's not often but the wrench sign can mean a bad dash. Have you checked 24v and ground at the c-2 Also check continiuty between gage and c-2.

Update. I was checking out my wiring a yesterday, and noticed the "clock/buzzer cancel" switch was very hard to operate. I looked at my wiring diagram and saw that that switch is an input to the C-2 controller. I tried unplugging it but it did not help. I left the switch unplugged so I could take it to my dealer to get a new one in a few days. I ran my machine most of the day today,and lo and behold, the C-2 started working!! Not sure if having that switch unplugged is related or not, but after seeing the check wrench display for a coulpe of years it is pretty weird, but it is working now. Maybe tommorrow I will plug the switch back in and see what happens. One other thing, I had more than average time idiling today. What is your take on that?

grandkobelco
08-26-2012, 02:06 PM
When you say c-2 is working do you mean the dash? Just to be clear they are two diffrent componets. But I'm glad it's working. I would not reinstall the switch but would buy a new one. This a importent switch in the kobelco world by supplying intermitent ground signals to the c-1 and c-2 controllers. I have not personaly seen it cause the wrench symbal but why not?

nighttower
08-26-2012, 02:08 PM
hello fellow kobelco owners!
sk50ur ser # yj-00846 (mini hoe)
yes... i am aware its a grey market machine (and am SICK of hearing the term)
i have simple questions that seem basic but due to the fact that i am a first time hoe owner (very mechanicaly inclined but trying to be sure to cover the basics of my excavator) i have questions and sadly NO ONE will help me or even talk to me because its "GREY MARKET"..... well guess what... its a kobelco... its put together like every other peice of heavy equipment... so what... it uses metric and bsp instead of sae... thats ok... if runs the same, works the same, and uses the same fluids.... but i digress
a few questions i have are
what weight of hydraulic oil do mini hoes use? (46, 68 not sure)
what do most people use in cycloidal final drives? (recomends 80/90 but have other people had better success with lighter or heavier oil?)
do little yanmars run the same sae 15/40 diesel oil as EVERY other diesel?
can you over grease the slew bearing and crap the seals out??? and how much is enough/too much
track tension for rubber tracks??? called two dealers... one said 2 INCHES .... the other said 3.5 to 4 INCHES (YES im SURE he said INCHES) is that right???
can someone PLEASE help me!?

Pane
08-30-2012, 08:27 AM
G'day

After having to remove one of my tracks last week due to a stripped output shaft on the drive motor I've discovered that the nose roller is very wobbly. I assume it's got some sort of bearing arrangement in a carrier that's worn out but couldn't get a clear look at what goes on inside there. I see there is a big spring and piston that the grease pushes out to tension the tracks but how is the roller removed to repair what's worn?

Also how often should the oil be changed in the final drives?

Machine is a sk120 mark 5 super.

Cheers

Van Koop
09-08-2012, 12:17 AM
Update. I was checking out my wiring a yesterday, and noticed the "clock/buzzer cancel" switch was very hard to operate. I looked at my wiring diagram and saw that that switch is an input to the C-2 controller. I tried unplugging it but it did not help. I left the switch unplugged so I could take it to my dealer to get a new one in a few days. I ran my machine most of the day today,and lo and behold, the C-2 started working!! Not sure if having that switch unplugged is related or not, but after seeing the check wrench display for a coulpe of years it is pretty weird, but it is working now. Maybe tommorrow I will plug the switch back in and see what happens. One other thing, I had more than average time idiling today. What is your take on that?

I have had the dreaded wrench symbol for a couple of years now. It would be fine if I ran it everyday, but if it sat for a few days I would turn the key on and get the wrench. Have changed c-2,c1 ignighton switch , new battery's. Had good trouble shooting mechanics look at it. All the voltages and grounds were good. Was talking to a fellow from Oregon who had alot of time around kobelcos and he gave me a few things to check. He said they had one mark 3 machine that would eat c-1 computers and it would act erratic in the hydralics. Long story short they finnally had to fly in a factory engineer from kobelco and it worked fine and they couldn't get it to act up. One day he was running it and it started acting up again (got real fast and smoked and then real slow and jerky)he started touching the fuses. He would push on the fuses and it would run normal. So I started my machine and had check wrench as usual, turned it off pushed with the palm of my hand on the fuses turn the key presto. Everything seams to be working perfectly ever since. I think these fuse blocks have caused alot of grief in an otherwise great machine. I was pulling my hair out cursing this kobelco. I hope this tip saves someone else alot of fraustration and expense.

Van Koop
09-08-2012, 12:20 AM
Ps I have an extra c-2 controller if you need one. Also a c-1

kp100
09-08-2012, 07:44 AM
Glad to hear you finally found your problem. Mine has been perfect ever since we changed the circuit board in the main screen. Too bad they couldn't keep all these fixes on file to share with customers when these electronic gremlins show up.
Kevin

drsparke
09-11-2012, 06:13 PM
SK135SRLC-1E
S/N - YH03-02692

When I first start the machine, stretch the arm out to full reach (cylinder fully retracted) and take my hands off the controls, the arm swings quickly back towards the machine (freely, not under hydraulic power). It swings back and forth past vertical until it has lost all its momentum and stays in the vertical position. After the machine has warmed up, the arm still swings back freely but at a MUCH slower speed. I've already had the cylinder repacked/resealed (thought it may have been bypassing internally and it was leaking slightly out of the rod wiper seal so needed repacking anyways). This did not resolve my issue of the arm moving back freely. The machine has a "control pattern quick-change valve" for CAT & Deere controls, the issue remains regardless of the control pattern. Looking through the parts diagrams it looks almost like there are three spool valves associated with the arm cylinder. I'm stuck as to where I should look next for the cause of my issue. Any help is greatly appreciated!

grandkobelco
09-13-2012, 06:01 AM
Follow the hyd lines from the arm cyl to the hyd controll valve, where the hyd lines thread into the valve, on top and on bottom of the main controll valve there are port relief valves that can be switched for test purpases. Unthread them and switch them and see if the arm still drifts down.

grandkobelco
09-14-2012, 05:46 AM
OOPS! I just read my post, lower boom to the ground before removing the valves.

crane_guy44
09-14-2012, 06:25 PM
Does anybody troubleshoot a stepping motor problem with a 10000 kobelco crane?

Digger33
09-16-2012, 06:39 PM
HI Itlewade17 - I ahve not been able to find a service manual for my SK030-2 - would you be able to send me a copy - happy to pay - Just have not been able to find one

tomfromhull
09-20-2012, 06:27 AM
Looking to sell a bucket piston off of a sk400

Lucas vda
09-24-2012, 09:59 AM
Hello mr Kobelco,

I have a Kobelco SK045, and i'm looking voor a user's manual.
Any idea where i can find it?
Thanks.

Ziperhead
09-26-2012, 11:47 PM
Hi there just signed up today! Looks like a great forum! Just purchased a 1983 907d lc Sn.yg-oo774. It seams that I am having the same issues with the solinoids . It starts and runs great along as the controls are in nutral. As soon as you move any of the controls any amount other than full it wants to stall it out. Full it will work. The safety leaver on the left control doesn't seam to be working either , at first that's what I thought it was. Untill I opened the pump compartment and saw that all the wires off all three solinoids are broken. 2of them rite in the solinoid. Soes this sound like the root of my problem to you? I ordered a new bank of solinoids , only found 1available and ordered it from hong kong and now it's lost in space! Any help with new or used parts for these would be very appreciated . Also what do the three functions do and can I make it work with just one solinoid? Thanks in advance

thebaz
09-27-2012, 12:25 AM
Hi Ziperhead,
I am no expert on this and hopefully there should be some expert advice coming from other members, but in the mean time I will try and help.
The solenoids on the pump usually are to do with the ECU and how it controls pump output and load according to engine speed, throttle position and mode setting. The solenoids being faulty would cause the problem you are mentioning with stalling out unless you use full lever. One thing to try while you are waiting for replacement solenoids is try by passing the ecu and there should be a switch somewhere to turn it on and off. When in the off position, the pumps should run as if in standard mode without ecu assistance, so give that a try and see if it will run without stalling. I would still replace all the solenoids regardless if they are disconnected so the machine is up to spec. The 907D should be a pretty good machine when all is working correctly.
Hope that helps.

grandkobelco
09-27-2012, 06:04 AM
Hi zipper. The bad wires and soleniods are where your going to start. Can you tell what wires went to witch soliniod? Can the wire harness be repaird? Is there a soleniod on the pump assembly itself? This is a older machine and I don't know off the top of my head wich coil does what but the one on the pumps is the most important one. This is the one that the cpu uses to controll pump flows. If it is not working the switch that baz is talking about wont work, I will look to see if our shop has a elec sch for this machine.

Ziperhead
09-27-2012, 10:36 AM
Thanks! I will try to find that switch.

Ziperhead
09-27-2012, 10:39 AM
Hi zipper. The bad wires and soleniods are where your going to start. Can you tell what wires went to witch soliniod? Can the wire harness be repaird? Is there a soleniod on the pump assembly itself? This is a older machine and I don't know off the top of my head wich coil does what but the one on the pumps is the most important one. This is the one that the cpu uses to controll pump flows. If it is not working the switch that baz is talking about wont work, I will look to see if our shop has a elec sch for this machine.
Thanks! There is no solinoid on the pump, but there is a 4th one that I think is for the safety lever?

thebaz
09-27-2012, 11:37 AM
The safety lever should have a micro switch that disengages the levers from working when the safety lever is up.

Ziperhead
09-28-2012, 12:01 AM
The safety lever should have a micro switch that disengages the levers from working when the safety lever is up.

Yes it does, but I think the switch controllers this solinoid? Am I wrong?

coldspider
09-28-2012, 03:35 AM
Hi

Firstly thanks for offering your help it is just what I need. Have been looking for a older machine for a while just to do some work on my farm I have found this machine http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=518208988

Can you tell at all what model it is from looking at it? Or let me know where the model number is usually located. I am assuming from the description it potentially needs a new track motor but I need to know what model it is before I can get a price for a replacement.

Thanks

grandkobelco
09-28-2012, 06:12 AM
Did I read your first post wrong? If the eng stalls out when you use the hydralics the problem wont be the safety lever. When you say the safety lever doesn't seam to work what do you mean? If the hydralics work when the lever is up sombody has bypassed the switch or the soleniod.

Rob2012
09-30-2012, 09:24 PM
Just registered........ Looks like I landed in the right place. I recently purchased a Kobelco SK75UR serial YR-03575 with Isuzu engine: A-4JB1PYA-10 6100 hrs. Doesn't smoke, no visible blow by, Hydraulic lines look real nice, seems very tight for the hours. Plan on doing some projects on the property. Some of the wiring for heater/ AC and other, needs attention. The Nylon fan blade hub has cracks in it and i can imagine the damage to the radiator when it comes apart. Any English manuals would be extremely helpful. I do have a parts manual with some English. thanks,Rob

The Old Wrench
10-02-2012, 10:55 AM
HI Mr. Kobelco, I seem to have hit a dead end I began to work on a Kobelco SK75UR s/n YR01050, complaint; is slow hydraulics and little power. I understand this is a gray market unit and I can not find any help, I do not have any books for the unit. So one has the wiring off the sensors for the stick and boom for the angle and offset functions and the switch behind the seat in the electrical box when moved from where its at then no hydraulics work and I found the warning horn / alarm is disconnected and it blows when reconnected. I do not know where to go to correct the electrical problem. I found the soleniod valve that the two position mode switch controls and connected a gauge to the out put side which goes to the main pump slave control and I had 700psi each time mode was shifted to one position then on pressure the other way. I noted that when raising the boom or just moving the stick in or out that changing the mode switch nothing changed such as moved faster or slower. I drilled and taped the two output fittings at the pump after removing the counterweight and connected gauges there. I could see no difference when moving a function and switching the mode switch. raising the boom only one out put had pressure, aprox. 1700psi, until boom got to the end of its stroke then the pressure began to build in both spiking to 2400psi but stalling the engine down to almost a stop. Looking for some direction to trouble shoot, are my problems both electrical and hydraulic? With no service info. this is a challenge.
The Old Wrench

Rob2012
10-02-2012, 05:45 PM
Old Wrench, I just acquired a sk75ur and a jury rigged cable that I think has to do with throttle limit when left counsel is back, only about 70% throttle even though lever was at full in the cab. At the pump the lever was far from the stop block. Are you aware of the hydraulic control lines valve under floor below left counsel? I don't know if it controls pressure or control patterns or?? Rob

The Old Wrench
10-03-2012, 07:47 AM
Thanks for answering, I have done some testing of the hydraulic system with out any manual to reinforce my results. I have found the line to control the pump shifting and the soleniod controled my the mode switch and the foward end of the display. I have taped into it and the signal pressure to the pump is 700psi and the mode switch does work but I get no change in hydraulic speed that is noticable and I was wondering it you noticed any change when you pushed the mode button back and forth while moving the boom up or stick in or out? I understand about the throttle cable.
The Old Wrench
PS I have found that "Mr. Kobelco" a possiable resourse has resigned from this forum and has started a pay for help web site. Just for FYI

Rob2012
10-03-2012, 11:03 AM
Old Wrench, I am not sure what you refer to as mode button. What's the location? I do have a parts book that has hydraulic and electrical schematics and can photo and send some pages if it would be helpful.... no scanner. You do get good engine speed? Not a nest in the air intake piping? Rob

Rob2012
10-03-2012, 12:40 PM
old wrench, I pm my phone number.

The Old Wrench
10-03-2012, 06:37 PM
HI Rob2012, just got in, The mode buttons are located on the right consol, I have not been back to work on this unit for several weeks, trying to find some information. If I remember they are two push buttons I belive just towards the forward edge of the covered panel and not marked in english. I belive they are the only buttons side by side. Engine air is clear I suspect the hydraulic pump is not shifting to lessen the load on the engine and reduce the speed of the cylinders moving and using less horse power.. Copies of any of those pages would be great and I suspect very helpfull.. I would not mind paying for the copies. Or if you could E-mail them. Or if ypu have a print shop handy maybe you could give me a cost to copy the whole manual. But I would be happy with anything cause I have nothing now.
Thanks for answering!!!
The Old Wrench

Rob2012
10-03-2012, 06:56 PM
Another shot at it ..... Under left console... under floor is the big lever to switch to different operator preference for control patterns. If the bolt with wings that holds the position in place has come out it could drift between positions and create hydraulic havoc. I'll get on the pages to send. Rob

The Old Wrench
10-03-2012, 07:05 PM
I belive that lever changes the lever functions, like boom from the right control lever to the left and the stick from the left over to the right control??

THANK YOU,
The Old Wrench

Steamboat
10-04-2012, 07:46 AM
Hello I'm new here I hope I'm doing this right. I have a kobelco sk220 mark 4, serial #LLU2224. My question is that when i bring my stick in it will get almost all the way in and then go " limp " or hesitates for a second before coming all the way in. Is there anything that can be about this ?

anilde2010
10-29-2012, 11:31 PM
Has anyone installed a dozer blade on a SK135 SRLC - YH02? Is there a lot of additional parts required (is it costly), and where can i get these parts? Thanks.

brianscathouse
10-30-2012, 10:33 PM
Looking at a Kobelco 120 excavator for my own land use and current owner knows very little about machine. Any things I should look for apart from usual wear and tear items. She believes it is a 1996 and it is setup for a log processor and has a dig bucket but no thumb. Comes with processor a Keto 150. Stick hydraulics are on bottom but look like they can be moved back to top for digging. Any input would be appreciated. Some mechanics in our area say stay away from Kobelco but I think lack of experience creates fear as there are not many of that brand around here.
9624996250

stock
10-31-2012, 04:45 AM
Brian both the dipper ram and the main lifting rams have been moved.this may affect the digging performance of the machine. New holland now provide parts back up for kobelcos here. There is no quick hitch either.

tcvt
11-01-2012, 10:20 AM
I'm posting here in case this thread is still being monitored for general Kobelco questions. I'm new to heavy equipment (and the forum) but know my way around gas powered cars.

I recently got a gray market Kobelco (Mark V or Super model, I believe - can't find a Serial Number plate anywhere). I would like to find factory manuals in English or manuals for a close equivalent machine. I want to go through it and learn more about it before I just jump in and start using it.

I started by draining the slew sump to get rid of any water before winter. I got a few drops of water and a sausage gravy consistency grease. I got about two quarts of it and there is more in there. I replaced the plate before it stopped draining. I'm assuming this should have a moly (paste grease), correct? I'm Looking for information on what to do about the sump, guessing that this should be drained out and regreased. I haven't found the top access plate to apply new grease. Grease type/brand recommendations would be helpful. More questions likely in the future. I have pictures, but do not have permissions for attachments. Thanks.

Tom

tcvt
11-01-2012, 10:35 AM
I just want to add that the color of the grease was also like sausage gravy - light tan. (I don't have permissions to edit my post, either). Thanks, again.

Tom

rfedistribution
11-01-2012, 11:08 AM
I think she looks pretty good. It's hard to know all the details just with those pics. If you need parts let me knowl

stock
11-01-2012, 11:37 AM
Tom generate a few posts in some other threads as what you are experiencing are anti spam measures I believe. I'm looking forward to the pics .

Jeazuz my 1901 post begining to feel like a right old fogie now..............

rgarv
11-02-2012, 01:22 PM
Mr. Kobelco,
I recently purchased a used 1994 Kobelco SK120LC(YP02028). Has a wrench picture on screen when powered up. Had some minor electrical issues that I have been handling. I have found what I believe to be a RPM sensor on the bell housing that is fried. I am in the process of getting this one replaced. I have noticed that the engine speed control does not work, nor does the temp gauge or fuel gauge(maybe). I wondered if you could help at all. Thanks!

tcvt
11-02-2012, 10:46 PM
rgarv,

The person who started this thread as Mr. Kobelco has resigned from this forum and started his own. There are other forum member, grandkobelco among them, who I have seen offering advice here.

Tom