580B help Please

[thbowen]

Several months ago I purchased a 580b and it worked fine while the weather was warm. Once it started cooling off the hoe still starts great and runs good but when I put it in gear and move the shuttle it does not want to go anywhere. When it was did this I would just raise the back wheels off the ground and let the tranny spin a while and then I could lower and it would go just and work great the rest of the time. Now that it has gotten cold I can not seem to get that much out of it. Any Ideas. I was going to change fluids and filters because like I said I recently purchased this and not sure the last time these were changed. The tranny.diff fluid is very thick and I just got my manuals and saw where there os torgue fluid also and I am going to check/change the fluid/filter here also. Thanks for the help

[Ford LT-9000]

Change the fluid its probably too heavy when you said the weather started to get colder and it stopped working usually is the sign that the oil is the wrong stuff.

I'am not sure of the fluid the Case is supposed to have you will have to find that in the manual. As for buying a piece of equipment with no known history change all the fluids reguardless then you got a base line to start with you know whats been done. You will also tell what might be failing if the oil that comes out is full of metal etc.

[salesrep]

Hopefully it is as simple as changing out fluids. Like ford lt-9000 said go to the manual or find one and put the recommended type and weight in. The sluggishness in cold suggests that the oil in there is too thick of grade to begin with or has thickened due to its quality or lack of changing. Since you do not know the history I would use a purging agent, run for a few hours and then put in the new fluid. May want to consider a synthetic or synthetic blend oil as well to help in the cold.

Mark.

[coopers]

I had the same problem when I ran 580B's. I would have to warm the thing up for like an hour, literally. It was rediculous. I sometimes did what you did, and raised the azz end of it and put it in gear. Boy those are old machines...lol :spaz

Good luck.

Blake
WA

[spudman]

Since we are talking about 580b's, I have an additional question. I am looking at purchaseing a 580, I have had the opportunity to run it for 20 hours and the one main problem that I notice is that it pops out of first gear. Is their an easy fix for this?

[Phil]

Welcome to the forum spudman:). I had a 580B with the same problem. While you have the cover off check to see if the dowel is in the cover or the transmission housing. If it's in the housing, it has probably slid down and can be felt protruding into the compartment, where it blocks 1st/2nd shifter rod from moving to the rear fully. Drive the dowel out and put it back in the cover, making sure it bottoms out. The shifter will seem to have a limited travel going into 1st, with this problem. If you can, it's better to look for a C or D ,many, many, improvements. Phil :canada

[geomerc]

Since your talking about fluids is there a prefered way to flush the tranny out? I recently purchased a 580b as well and have found the cooler in the radiator is leaking into the water and the other way round.

Thanks
George

[Phil]

Geomerc,
I believe it is a common problem with the B's, I have seen a few of them with add on oil coolers. I don't believe you can drain the convertor in a B so I think all you can do is to remove the 2 drain plugs and change your oil, may require a couple of changes. The filter housing has a drain on it too; I will look at the service manual also. Was it anti-freeze? Phil:)

[geomerc]

Yes it was. If it was a car I would just run it with the line open and add new at the fill untill it was all clean. I'm not sure that is a good idea for this rig. Is it worth running synthetic in the shuttle? Thanks for your help.

George

[geomerc]

I forgot to say I went with the add on oil cooler myself. Radiators seem to be pricey. Just from my search online they seem to run from 350.00 to 650.00. Is it any cheaper to recore?

Thanks
George

[Phil]

I think it is cheaper to recore, not sure since I haven't had it done in quite a while. The shuttle uses a hydraulic oil suitable for use with clutch packs, many brand names for this, not sure of the designation. Phil:)

[geomerc]

Thanks for your help

George

[yasmar]

Geomerc,
I believe it is a common problem with the B's, I have seen a few of them with add on oil coolers. I don't believe you can drain the convertor in a B so I think all you can do is to remove the 2 drain plugs and change your oil, may require a couple of changes. The filter housing has a drain on it too; I will look at the service manual also. Was it anti-freeze? Phil:)

What more can you tell me about the add on coolers...any specific ones or is it a make it fit kind of thing. What kind of pressure is it under?

[RFrank]

Looks like I need to replace the radiator or use an add on oil cooler. The fresh fluid in the power shuttle (580b) turned green right away.

I have quickly learned how expensive the replacement radiators are and that re-core may not be an option.

I can't find anything in the service manual about radiator removal on the b, it seems like I read in an earlier post by Phil that it was one of the difficult jobs?

Is it possible to just leave the radiator in place, cap the oil lines and put in an add on cooler? If so, can anyone suggest where to get a cooler and which one?

Thanks

[geomerc]

I put in a new radiator in mine. It cost 325 - 350 Can't remember been a while. The guy I got the hoe from put a external cooler on it and caped the lines on the rad thinking it would fix the problem, but there had been way too much creek water through it to make a good repair. It was not fun to change that is for sure but I did mange to do it with out bending more than a couple of the fins. I'm sure I took the engine cover off and the fan off. I had got some new racketing wrenches that made it easy to get off. I will look for a part # on the cooler tomorrow when I see the hoe again hopefully there is one I can see and pass it on. TIll tomorrow


George

[RFrank]

George, was the cooler working ok for the shuttle but the radiator was replaced because it was leaking?

It looks like it would be awfully tight to fit a cooler in front of the radiator.

Thanks, Frank

[melben]

Remove the drain plug just behind the engine on the botttom of the bell housing. Look up in the hole and turn the engine till an allen type plug appears, remove it and the T/C will drain. Use a good quality allen wrench or 3/8 socket driver for an allen wrench to avoid damage to the plug. Mel

[melben]

Havn't checked lately but the bottom tank/cooler used to be available from Case. A good radiator shop should be able to supply one but it must be able to handle full system pressure as it is in the high pressure line. As previously stated there is no room up front with the Tpipe and the reservoir and pump suction hoses right up against the radiator. Mel

[geomerc]

the orginal problem was the tranny lines were leaking into the rad. They priced it and decided to cap the lines and add the cooler. I got it and 3 weeks later the rad started leaking else where. took to shop and the guy said it was junk. So I got a new one. There seems to be enough room for the cooler. I don't know how hard it was for the guy to put in, but he didn't seem that technical to me. Maybe he just got lucky. I'll get a pic when I go over this morning where the hoe is.

Frank yes the cooler was working fine and still is. I never moved the lines back to the rad. The rad was replaced because it was junk

[geomerc]

Here's the pics looks like it is zipp tied to a couple of lines with some rubber between.

[RFrank]

Thanks for the advice and the pics. That looks like a good way to go with it. The original tank at the bottom of the radiator is still available from Case, but it's over $400.

I wonder if the trans warmed up faster with the original oil cooler in the radiator...do you notice any long warm up time (before it moves in cold weather).

So...if I can find an oil cooler that can handle up to 300 p.s.i., I think that's the way to go.

Mel, thanks for the 'how to' for draining the converter, never would have stumbled upon that one.

Frank

[geomerc]

I don't think I have ever waited longer than 5 minutes even on a 20 degree day.

Good Luck

George

[RFrank]

Does anyone know where I can get an external oil cooler like this?
Thanks, Frank

[geomerc]

Frank, I called the guy I got my hoe from and he said they got that cooler from Oreilly's Auto Parts. I am going to town this afternoon I'll stop by and see if my local has a reference.

George

[geomerc]

Frank, Oreilly's can get it. They didn't have any in the warehouse so I guess it's a special order kind of thing. So if they can get any other major chain shouldn't have too much trouble getting one. I believe it was listed as an engine oil cooler. Good Luck

George

[V16CatMetKanick]

Case trans' use Case TCH ( transmission Convetor Hydraulic) fluid. Amalie also makes a really good oil called ALL-TRAC 245. The ALL-TRAC is alittle on the thick side for really cold areas, but it works fine here in most of New Hampshire. If you end up running any kind of synthetic fluid, you'll probobly find some new leaks that you didn't know about before.

[chuck jacobs]

I WOULD NOT RECOMEND changing to synthetic oil in a used machine. I put it in my dodge cummins with about 90,000 miles on it and it seeped oil out of every gasket.I changed back to rotella and it stopped not completely but a whole better than with the synthetic. synthetic is fine in a new engine . chuck jacobs

[TD-5]

Greatings to all, new member here, been following along for sometime & now registered. Also have a 73 580B. great forum

[mcc92]

Could be that the pickup tube is partially clogged, I know someone who had one where this was the cause. You have to take a bit of the machine apart to access it however.

[airr]

My 580B has the same problem. It just can not move to anywhere now.