View Full Version : Stihl Chain Saw
coopers
12-29-2008, 06:44 PM
Hey guys,
Looking for a chain saw (stihl) that is not super heavy duty but not a light weight. It's mainly going to be used for cutting small to average size trees (doug firs, hemlock, cedars etc) when I'm clearing land. Looking at 3-4 foot diameter at times. I'm not 100% familiar with Stihl saws but I know they're good and have heard no complaints. MS 361 saw, how's that model? What's a good bar length?
Thanks
PSDF350
12-29-2008, 08:16 PM
Beter off with a husky:) But if you insist on a sthil then the ms440 or 460 will do what you need. They changed the numbers so ask. But go with a pro saw not a home owners. You will pay more but is well worth it.
Steve Frazier
12-29-2008, 09:48 PM
I do cutting a few times a year in my business and was looking for the biggest Stihl without getting into the mega priced saws. I got a 390 with 24" bar. This was about 5 years ago, I don't know if they still use the same numbers or not. It's got plenty of power for what I do, I think the biggest I've taken down is a 3' diameter cherry.
guest
12-29-2008, 10:13 PM
If you want to do a little research here is link http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php?www;board=9.
coopers
12-29-2008, 11:49 PM
Thanks guys! I'll go with the pro and I'll have to do some more research on the model numbers.
iron kid
12-30-2008, 08:14 AM
have 2 361 and love them one short bar one long
coopers -- if you aren't planning on using it all the time, Steve is right about the 390, it's a great mid-grade saw that doesn't break the bank -- same body & weight as the 290 and 310, but more power.
Buying extra bars & chains will let you maximize your saw's potential, I find that 4"/HP with full complement 3/8" chain is optimal for me if the saw is for felling and bucking -- if you need to go longer, you can go with skip chain so there are fewer cutting teeth in the wood at any point. I find that most folks dump the tip of the bar into the ground if the bar is much over 20" so I'd stay away from only having a 24" bar. Also, with an extra bar & chain, you don't need an extra saw to extract yourself when you invariably pinch... and it'll always happen when you don't have time or help. For the bar you will use the most, have 3 or 4 chains so if a couple are off getting sharpened you aren't hosed... for the spare/longer/rescue bar, 2 chains is enough. If you are thinking about a pair of saws, make sure they share the same bar mount!
Stihl's numbering system used to be "0xy" where if "y" was even, it is a pro series... now they unified their entire numbering system so it became "MSxyz" -- it still works out, for the most part, that if "y" is even, it is in the pro series and "z" is the revision level. I like rim sprockets for the pro saws, but for light use, spur sprockets are good enough. On pro saws, I like the wide nose ES bars but any of the bars will work well. If you are comfortable running a saw, get chain without the "comfort" links, it is easier to sharpen and will generally run better. Super chain cuts better in most wood, but is harder to keep sharp and goes downhill quick if you round off a point -- Micro chain doesn't cut quite as well but lasts better, especially if there is dirt on (or in) the logs. Elastostart is nice, but can be added later when you break the pull cord. Tool-less tensioning is annoying, to me, because it is hard to keep clean and doesn't let you flip the bar, easily, when you change chains.
As you can tell, I love my Stihls... I fell with an 066 w/ 24" or 32" or a 440 w/24". For light limbing I use older 023/025's w/ 16" bars. Bucking firewood is 036/361 w/16" or 440 w/20" territory. One of these days, some of those 025's will die and I'll move up to 260's so the bar mounts are all common. I also maintain saws and chains for friends, so I play with several more 025/250's, 270, 039, 046 and a couple oldies like an 009 and an 031.
Good luck and have a Happy New Year, everyone!
ohioduramax
12-30-2008, 02:34 PM
I got a MS 360 (361 replaced it) and its a good saw. If you are gonna be using it alot to drop 3-4 ft trees id buy a MS 460 or even a 066. You cant go wrong with a stihl saw.
John H
12-30-2008, 03:46 PM
Beter off with a husky:) But if you insist on a sthil then the ms440 or 460 will do what you need. They changed the numbers so ask. But go with a pro saw not a home owners. You will pay more but is well worth it.
I'll 2nd this. If your cutting 3-4 foot stems you'r going to want a bigger saw than a 361
stumpjumper83
12-30-2008, 08:06 PM
check out www.arboristsite.com they have alot of tree and chainsaw guru's over there. My opinon is this. Get a ms460, they are awesome. I have had the same one for about 10 years now and still havent changed the sparkplug, or anything else. Its on its second 24" bar, nose blew on the old one. I also have a 32" bar that I use as needed. My father has a 20 year old 044 that he uses for firewood, both comercial and personal. He logs his one farm with it, I help sometimes with my 460. So far these are the parts that he has replaced, sparkplug 2x. Pull rope and recoil housing 1x, last year. Tank fuel filter and rubber line 1x, this year. A shock absorber bushing 1x, 8 years ago. As far as I am concerned, a stihl is worth every penny you pay. Yes, the comercial models cost a grand give or take, but they work hard every day and last, even if you dont take the best care of them.
PSDF350
12-30-2008, 08:19 PM
check out www.arboristsite.com they have alot of tree and chainsaw guru's over there. My opinon is this. Get a ms460, they are awesome. I have had the same one for about 10 years now and still havent changed the sparkplug, or anything else. Its on its second 24" bar, nose blew on the old one. I also have a 32" bar that I use as needed. My father has a 20 year old 044 that he uses for firewood, both comercial and personal. He logs his one farm with it, I help sometimes with my 460. So far these are the parts that he has replaced, sparkplug 2x. Pull rope and recoil housing 1x, last year. Tank fuel filter and rubber line 1x, this year. A shock absorber bushing 1x, 8 years ago. As far as I am concerned, a stihl is worth every penny you pay. Yes, the comercial models cost a grand give or take, but they work hard every day and last, even if you dont take the best care of them.Arborsite is alright if you like alot of crap and egos. But if you want to ask questions and not get belittled go to http://www.forestryforum.com/ good people lots of knowledge and none of the bs.
coopers
12-30-2008, 09:44 PM
Thanks guys...a lot of info here. I would rather have a bigger saw and cut little trees then come up against big trees and have to take the time to leave the job and rent a saw. I like the info I've received...especially from BB64!
I wont B.S. ya! I used to cut timber for a living. You cant go wrong with a 066/660 and a 32 inch bar. ( I ran a 32 because Im 6'2" tall and I didnt have to bend over as far when limbing.) It will have plenty of stump power for those larger stems, and when the chain gets a little dull, it still has the power to pull it through the cut. A 046/460 will serve you well and be a little cheaper to buy, as well as a bit lighter to pack around. It has plenty of power for what you need it to do.Jason
John H
12-31-2008, 09:56 AM
Arborsite is alright if you like alot of crap and egos. But if you want to ask questions and not get belittled go to http://www.forestryforum.com/ good people lots of knowledge and none of the bs.
+ 1 for forestry forum
2004F550
01-01-2009, 11:10 AM
another vote for the MS460, great saw, never had any luck with huskies but I know those who swear by them
jaybwas
01-01-2009, 09:07 PM
I'm on my 3rd Stihl. I've owned the 250, a 310 and I just put out some bucks for the pro 441. This saw is well worth the money. I believe that beyond the 441, you have the 460, 660 and 880. My friend has been selling Stihl and Husky for years and says that it is a Ford/Chevy issue. Good luck!
Deereman
01-13-2009, 11:40 AM
I agree with the 460. I plan on buying one this spring. I have a 029 super and love it but just too small. I wouldn't mind the 660 but they love those things. I just don't know what size bar would be the best.??
youngoperator
01-13-2009, 05:04 PM
ive used a stihl once and it seemed like a nice saw cant remeber what size it was. i own a 266 husky i plan on buying a new 365 or 372 husky soon :)
roddyo
01-13-2009, 11:46 PM
You should take a look at the Dolmar Saws. I have never ran one but on the Forums some people think they are the best thing going for the price. You can get a new 6400 on ebay for around $475 Shipped. I was going to buy a new 7900 Dolmar last week. I went with a ported Husky 372 that was on sale instead. I was going to modify the Dolmar anyway so I'm going to find a used one instead.
roddyo
01-13-2009, 11:53 PM
You should take a look at the Dolmar Saws. I have never ran one but on the Forums some people think they are the best thing going for the price. You can get a new 6400 on ebay for around $475 Shipped. I was going to buy a new 7900 Dolmar last week. I went with a ported Husky 372 that was on sale instead. I was going to modify the Dolmar anyway so I'm going to find a used one instead.
Another Tough little saw is a Shindiwia. They are not the lightest or most powerful saw made but they are almost bullet proof. I have a 488 and it hasn't lead a very easy life. It will almost run under water.:)
What do I know:beatsme I'm just a ShinHead:D
thejdman04
01-16-2009, 11:36 AM
Id look hard at a 390 stihl
nedly05
01-17-2009, 08:43 AM
I just had a 575XP burn up on me, and a 353 that was close to burning up from the ethanol in the gas. They told me always run high test (which I do) only mix 1 gallon at a time, keep it sealed up tight so no moitsure can get at it, and dont keep it more that 45 days. I guess the ethanol will suck moisture out of the air, then the moisture gets in your can and seperates the ethanol from the gas, the saw gets ahold of the straight ethanol and it burns up your motor. They told me it would cost about $350 +/- to fix the 575. I only paid $400 for it used so I was between a rock and a hard spot. I ended up tradign the both saws and got a MS361 stihl. I really wanted to have a big saw and a small saw but I ended up splitting the difference. At work we have an 046, and a 262 husky, also a couple litttle saws, so I have access to enough saws. I guess the point of this rant is that I went with a 361 stihl. LOL!! Keep your gas new and dry!!!
Wolfcsm
01-20-2009, 07:00 AM
Hey guys,
Looking for a chain saw (stihl) that is not super heavy duty but not a light weight. It's mainly going to be used for cutting small to average size trees (doug firs, hemlock, cedars etc) when I'm clearing land. Looking at 3-4 foot diameter at times. I'm not 100% familiar with Stihl saws but I know they're good and have heard no complaints. MS 361 saw, how's that model? What's a good bar length?
Thanks
Stihl is a very good saw. They are pricy, but you get what you pay for. The 361 is a great saw. Had the chance to run two of them last year at an Arboristsite Get Together.
I run a 310 and a 660. With the 361 and a 24" bar you can do just about anything you need to, based on your requirements above. A 28 or 32" bar will need to be run more slowly but it will pull the length.
Taken care of, a Stihl should last for many years. I see 25 year old 090 Stihls that cost more now than they did new.
Hal
KMB83
01-20-2009, 07:20 AM
nedley,
i was always told never to run ethanol in chainsaws. i know it is getting harder to find, but i drive 30mi to a gas station that carries non-ethanol blends. same principals as not using E85 in a non approved vehicle, eats up rubber hoses and gaskets. also has a different burn charateristic. anybody else ever been told this?
my fuel mix, a chainsaw mechanic friend told me about:
30CC Amsoil 2stroke synthetic oil/gal
10CC Seafoam/gal
5CC Amsoil fuel stabiliser/gal
i know it is more like 100/1 mix, but he claimed (no ill result yet): better lube, cleaner burn and more power since more fuel and less oil.
Farmall953
01-20-2009, 12:31 PM
I think stihls are the way to go ive got a few different ones including a 034, MS170, MS270,009L, 020 (2). They all work great and a few of them are at least 25 years old. Get a stihl they last forever
I'll stick with my Husqvarna saws personally. They are lighter and cut much faster when going against two saws classed the same (mostly haven't ran all of 'em). If getting a Stihl general rule of thumb is an even numbered saw will generally last longer (pro series ) I've got 7 saws right now (for some reason when a family member dies or quits doing things i wind up being the recipient of stuff sometimes usefull sometimes.. :crying :dizzy :lmao ) 4 are Huskys 2 are stihl and the other one is an old lombard. I use the Huskys more than the others because of the above reasons. I'm very particular and exacting with the maintenance of my stuff and the old lombard saw still runs and cuts with the best (IF you can stand the bleeding loud thing it kills me with hearing protection, plugs and muffs with a muffler on).
Ultimately if you like one brand beter than the other just match the saw to your work. Go to your local saw shop (where the pros in your area go) and talk to some of the sales staff and their customers and see what they have to say. You can find an opinion good or bad for every saw. Good luck and send some pictures when you get it. :drinkup
basspro
02-08-2009, 08:20 PM
I worked for the USFS for years, operating saw. I liked the 044 & 046, with a 24-28 skip it never seemed to run out of power. & I like to run the rakers down just a little. I ran full comp 24insh on our 44, & it was OK, exept at higher elevation. We kept a 36" skip & used it for felling larger stuff, & the 44 was ok, with the 46 being better. We got a 066, & it had tons of power, but, for the amount of hiking we did, I prefered the 44 or 46, & just slow down the cut a little bit.
With that said. We also used Husky 272, 391(2), & a larger 394. All were lighter then the Stihl, but were really poor at high elevation. I prefer 24 or 28 inch bar, as kneeling down all day to limb is not my idea of enjoyable, & I did not have to swap out a longer bar to fell most trees. Also, it seems to be wighed better, as in holding the saw by the handlebar, it would be almost level, making it easy to sight, & set up my 1st & back cuts.
As you can tell my exp. is (now) with older saws, but those might be in your budget, as a used 044 should be fairly cheap.
swampdog
02-08-2009, 10:57 PM
The only Stihl I owned was a used pro model. Even though it was only about a year old, it had seen heavy use cutting pulp and was worn out. I'm sure the Stihls are good if one buys a new pro model; a lot of people like them. From that I went to a Partner, which was a real piece of junk.
Then I bought a new Husqvarna. It's about thirty years old now. Although it only averages about 75 or 100 hours a year of use, over thirty years that's a lot of hours. It's taken a few spark plugs, a new pull cord, and quite a few chains over the years. And I ran over it with my pickup once; after a little straightening of the handle, (metal back in those days) one would never know. The engine has never been opened up, and it still runs great with lots of power. Just have to keep that small, long screwdriver handy to adjust the Hi and Lo screws once in a while.
Oh yeah, and the Husqvarna may have saved my life once. A dead aspen about 10 inches in diameter fell on a power line (truth be known, I accidentally dropped it on the power line:Banghead). So, thinking that dry wood will not transmit electricity, I started to cut through the leaning tree from underneath, at about four feet from the ground. The bar made it an inch or two into the tree, but I dropped the saw when I felt the electricity go up both arms. Had the saw not had those good anti-vibration rubber mounts, I might not be typing this today. Dry felt pack rubber boots also helped. Apparently, even dry wood conducts 14,000 volts very well. A little while later, the snow melted away from the stump and electricity started arcing from the tree to nearby buck brush.
EZ TRBO
02-23-2009, 06:42 AM
I have an OLD Stilh Farmboss which is over 30 years old, running it with a 20" bar and 90% of the time worked great for firewood cutting and such. Have cut many trees with a larger dia. as well, just took a bit more time to do it. Finally a few years ago, the FB was in the shop and dad needed a saw NOW and decided to buy a newer one. Went with the MS360. Very very nice saw, cuts faster and has taken care of everything I need for the trees and firewood I cut. When cutting on the river for spring clean up we(firedept) has 2 MS290's and a handful of us usually bring along our own saws if needed.
Never been around the Husky's but know a few that have ran them for years and cut tons of firewood and love em. Thats bout the only ones I see around at all, when you have a good Stilh dealer in town its bit easier to go with that.
Trbo
30 dirty years
02-23-2009, 04:21 PM
Stihl is the what we have been using for quite a while now:)
I have an old 028AV Super.
It has been a good saw. I am mostly trying to post.:notworthy
Dean
2000 7.3 6speed
07-18-2009, 01:03 PM
I have a stihl ms 361 and it's a great saw I have a 18 and 25 in bar for it great all around saw. I around 15 to 20 cords last year with it.
Wolfcsm
10-05-2009, 09:58 AM
Stihl is a very good saw. They are pricy, but you get what you pay for. The 361 is a great saw. Had the chance to run two of them last year at an Arboristsite Get Together.
I run a 310 and a 660. With the 361 and a 24" bar you can do just about anything you need to, based on your requirements above. A 28 or 32" bar will need to be run more slowly but it will pull the length.
Taken care of, a Stihl should last for many years. I see 25 year old 090 Stihls that cost more now than they did new.
Hal
I added a new (to me) saw last week. A MS 880 Magnum with a 48 inch bar. Not really practical for what I do but sure a lot of fun to run that monster.
Hal
dozerdave
10-05-2009, 11:45 PM
I have 2 Husky saws, don't remember the model but 1 size down from the biggest one. Both with 32" bars because bending over to limb kills my old back. The Husky dealer was a super guy and would work all night to get a saw running again. Most of the loggers in the area purchased their saws from him because of his service. Big saws are like big dozers, when you open the throttle things begin to happens.
agricat
10-11-2009, 11:09 AM
For a good deal, the Stihl 650 is just a bit smaller than a 660 but hundreds less. Yup HUNDREDS!!!!!!!!! Go to a few dealers and look for one with dust on it. He can't move it, ego wins and folks go for the 660.
There are 2 reasons to use Hi test gas. Stihl says so. And Stihl says so. I realize this is these are the same reason, but it is Damn important.
They are tuned for it and they run great with it. Folks will say it does not matter, if so' their saws are tuned wrong and running less than they could.
And Stihl says so. I learned the hard way, boy did that saw wake up.
truecountry
10-12-2009, 10:10 PM
ms 390 stihl is great saw i have 2 at home and 3 at work
maddog
10-15-2009, 08:58 PM
I also agree with stihl as being a great saw, have a 390 and 250. The only thing I do to all my saws is the mufffler mod. Lets the saw run much cooler {=longer life} and gives them a little more hp. The forestry forum has a boat load of info.
05rammer
11-11-2009, 07:01 PM
I have run nothing but Stihl, weedeaters and chain saws, and would not run anything else
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