John Deere 690c Excavator Questions

[kdsekh]

Hello all!
I am very close to buying a John Deere 690c excavator. I have a construction background but have only operated equipment a few times (small loader backhoes).
The reason I am buying this machine is I have bought 10 ac. of land that I plan on building a new home for my family on in a couple years. I'll be using it pull stumps, run the underground utilities, and eventually digging the foundation.
The dealer I am buying it from is taking it in on trade. I looked and operated it on the present owners property. The owner bought it new from the same dealer in april of 1987 (Manufactured 12/96) he has all the manuals and maintance records for it. This guy was miticulace in maintaining this machine! It only has 2755 hrs. on it! I know that seems unreasonably low but I beleive those to be true hours because it has the original paint, all gauges, levers, latches, locks, wiper, heat work, all glass is intact, and the seat has no rips on it! I also looked at the other equipment in this guys yard and it looks to be in fantastic shape for being mid to late 80's vintage.
I looked a several other excavators it it came down to this Deere 690c and a Cat e110b and after doing a little bit of reasearch found the e110b not to be one of cats more popular models . I was told that it was one of the first CAT / Mitsubishi collaberations and some parts may not be available. Besides the 690c weighs 14,000 lbs. more.
I'm just wondering if anyone here has experience with this machine? Things that are bad and good about it? Things I should look out for. Any common problems that you heard these machines may exhibit? Maintance issues? etc.
Oh, I can buy it for $17,000.00. Any help or insights would be greatly appreciated. :usa

[Dirtguru]

I remember the C model Deere's were decent machines in their day, was never around one long enough to answer any of your questions. Have had pretty good results with D model Deere machines. If it truly has less than 3000 hrs on it than I'm sure it's a good buy but I would beware a machine that old with so few hrs. What did the previous owner use the machine for? Is he or was he ever in the excavation business in the last 17 yrs, if so than my guess would be more like 13,000 hrs. The reason I would want to know this is I can't think of too many folks who have the funds to purchase a new exc that large just to play with. On the other hand, even if he was in the excavation business and the machine really has 13,000 hrs does not necesarily mean it's a bad deal. A lot of owner operators take excellent care of their equiptment. My little brother owns a Cat 416C with just over 10,000 hrs on it and with the exception of a couple of major repairs along the way has been an excellent backhoe, still looks runs and operates like new. What kind of condition is the undercarriage in? Are the tracks saging, are there big gouges and grooves on the track rails, how do the drive sprockets look? Are the teeth worn pretty evenly or are the worn excessively on one or both sides? How well do the tracks fit the sprocket teeth?, about a quarter inch gap is probably OK. Look for any big dings or gouges on the hydraulic cylinder pistons[the chrome part] If there are some the seals in the cylinders probably leak. If at all possible try to get oil samples from the engine and finals at least. Most Cat dealerships have the ability to test the samples and the results will indicate things like how many hrs and what kinds of things will need attention. Again, even if the machine has 13,000 hrs on it if it is in reasonably good mech condition it should take care of your needs just fine. A lot of what I just mentioned you could probably live with for what you intend to use it for.
Just my personal opinion but I think a 40,000lb machine is way bigger than you'll ever need for what you want to do. The E110 is a more suitable size and even though they didn't make that many they were not as, I recall, known to be bad machines. Whichever one you choose, before you buy anythibing, be sure to contact your respective local dealers to verify parts availability.
Most of all, have fun

A Chapman

[kdsekh]

Well, I took delivery of the 690c yesterday 4/8 and much to my surprise the guy I purchased it from sent all the manuals and all service records and even a couple of new teeth and shanks for the bucket :D . The hours were recorded when the service/repairs where done and everything checks out that it really does have only 2755 hours on it.

Dirtguru,
Thanks for your reply. Yes parts availability was a big concern of mine. The dealer said that all parts are still available for the 690c That was not the case when i checked with the CAT dealer on the E110B.

Can you guy's give me your feedback on what kind of engine oil and hydrolic fluid you use or recommend. :drinkup

[Dirtguru]

I have always been partial to Chevron/Delo products probably because thats whats most commonly available in these parts. If you can find out what the previous owner was using it's probably best to continue with that. Be a good idea to get some extra air, fuel, oil and hydraulic filters too. Can't say that I have found any particular brand of filters that outperforms any other, as long as you follow factory recomended service intervals filter choice should not be a problem. One very important item on all diesel engines to remember is anti freeze. Don't use regular automotive anti freeze. Purchase anti freeze that is formulated for diesel engines. Caterpillar and Shell/Rottella make products that are expensive but ready ro use right out of the bottle. Napa low silicate anti freeze is also good but buy a couple of quarts of Napa diesel cooling system conditioner and the test strips as well and mix according to the instructions that come with the test strips. Diesel cooling systems are susceptible to what they call cavitation, some more than others. Without going into great detail cavitation is kind of like having a bunch of super heated BB's pounding on the hottest points within your cooling system. Over time this is a very bad thing. Diesel engine cooling system products are formulated to maintain the proper chemical balance required to avoid this problem. If your machine has a Cummins Engine??? it may be equiped with a cooling system filter. Get a grease gun and a case of any kind of grease and grease that sucker every time you use it, familiarize yourself with the location of all your zerk fittings. I know it's a dirty job but grease is your friend and will greatly increase the life of your machine. Don't forget to grease the carbody turntable, the fitting or fittings in some cases is located on that big round thing under your cab. The mechenism contained inside is subjected to all the forces produced when operating the machine in addition to the entire weight of the upper portion of the machine. It's pretty tough but if it is neglected you might as well send your machine to the scrapyard. If possible have someone show you what the proper track tension is and how to adjust it. Also have them show you the proper technique for loosening them if you accidently get them too tight. Maintaining proper track tension will increase the life of your undercarriage and also greatly reduce the possibility of throwing a track. If you know the proper procedure it is reletively easy to put a track back on an excavator because you can pick yourself up and move around. I imagine this would be quite frustrating to a firstimer without someone with experience around. While were on the subject of manuevering, as you learn to operate the machine keep in mind that it is better to turn the machine using a combination of boom/stick/swing as well as track pedals. The technique is to place the heel of your bucket on the ground and push the machine of the ground a bit. To turn right swing the carbody left while counterotating left track forward, right track backward until you have reached the direction you want to face, feet off the pedels and set down gently. Exact oposite for left turn. Keep in mind the location of your finals or drive sprockets because of the 360 deg capability. If they are in the rear than move exactly as described above, if they are in front then counterrotate the tracks oposite from above. If you have any doubt just tap lightly on the top of the track pedels to see which way there pointing. Until your comfortable with the machine be extra careful when working on slopes, To much weight in the bucket with the boom and stick extended to far out will overcome the counterwieght and could cause the machine to tip, you don't want to wind up on your side. Not only will it be at least painful but quite costly. Learn to be aware of your suroundings, stumps, large rocks and such under your tracks can be slippery and will greatly increase the pucker factor until you are comfortable operating the machine. For best results when your digging try to maintain a uniform surface beneath your tracks as you go along. I like to call it building a nest. Once you get the hang of building your nest you will find you won't be rockin and rollin so much as you operate the machine. If you know a patient excavator operator have him come over for a couple of weekends to show you the ropes. Nothing matches the versatility of an excavator. Their is practically nothing a proficiant operator can't do with an excavator as long as they stay within the limits for the class of machine. Most of all have fun, the more proficiant you become the more hrs you will want to spend with your new toy. It happens to all of them.

A Chapman