Progress on the AW supper 300

[Dwan Hall]

I thought I had posted some pictures of the Austin Western that I have been cleaning up but I cant find the thread.
First pictures are as I got it, The second picture was getting it into the shop.

Then came finding out why the steering was so loose. Seems there were no bushings left on the tie rods and the bolts had wore the holes a little oblong. I mannaged to find new bolts and new bushings. I may have to boor out the holes and insert a reducer sleave to make the bushings fit tight . Se sill see later this week.

[Dwan Hall]

next was removing some of the 3 layers of paint. I did some of it with organic paint remover and a 3000 lb preasure washer and a turbo nozel. then tuched it up with a wire brush. The fun part was under all the piping.
Next step was to acid etch the steel then apply a 2 part epoxi self etching primer, toped with a sealer by Dupont.
I think the origional red color will be last. Red is also what most of my other equipment is painted.

[Dwan Hall]

As you can see the preasure washer did a good amount of the work. But I have spent months wire brushing with a 4" mekita and an air die grinder cleaning the rest.

This shot is of the cab before any hand work.

[Ford LT-9000]

Lots of work stripping the old paint off by hand. We have done quite a few equipment repaints at our shop the largest was sand blasting and repainting a off highway log truck. After 15 years it still looks good but sure was allot of work. What we used was regular Cat yellow right from cat.

Now that they have plastic media for sandblasting it doesn't do as much damage as sand does. All what we used was black sand its ground up lava rock really coarse but we used it on rusty barges. The only problem with sand blasting with sand is it gets into everything another option is using walnut shells ground up of course but its less abrasive.

I know you said you wanted to paint the machine red which is the hardest color to paint with. It also fades the fastest what about red and white or some combination with red that matches the rest of your operation.

Good Luck

[Dwan Hall]

Sand blasting was not an option as no one in town has one big enough. I will be doing some of the small parts in my small cabnet using glass beeds.

The color combination will be red for the main frame and sheet medal, black for the rams above eye line and around the center of the cab, and gray for the drive train.

front of frame in primer and a shot looking down the side.

[Grader4me]

The steel hydraulic lines look like they are still in good condition..good chance to look them over closely for sections that could be chafed. Looks like a tedious job, but I bet the old girl is going to look like a million bucks when you are done.:thumbsup
Keep us updated on your progress(more pictures)

[jazak]

Thats coming along nice!:thumbsup Keep us posted. On another slightly different note what happened to Steve Frazier's Ford that he was going to put the new dump body on? Did I miss something?:confused:

[Jeff D.]

Yes, it looks like your doing a very careful, complete job Dwan. It certainly has the potential to come out looking beautiful.

How are you going to bring yourself to drop the blade that first time, and wear the new paint off? :crying :rolleyes:

[Dozerboy]

Looks really good:thumbsup

[Jeff D.]

Any idea what you're going to spray it with Dwan, paint wise. I was thinking Imron might be a good paint for a machine like this, but I don't know if they even sell it anymore. It sure is tough stuff though.

I'm usually too cheap to spring for anything better than implement paint for my equipment, but you may have more sophisticated tastes and actually choose something slightly higher end.

[Dwan Hall]

Thanks all for the coments,
Jeff They still sell Imron but @ over $600 a gal here. as it is I paid $488 for 1 gal of red polyurathine (sp) from Dupont and that did not include the 2 required aditives. I figure I will have between $1200 and $1500 in paint materials alone when finished.
Another $500 for this circle motor that the last owner tried to weld the broken ear back on which did not hold. Reason it broke, loose set screw that held the pivit pin from comming 1/2 way out causing things to bind. He didn't even tighten the set screw after he welded the cap back on. I don't think he could find it under all the dirt that was in the circle motor area.
Talk about fun timing the 2 motors was a ball. Directions said to apply 10 lb air to inlet port and put pin in circle to hold in dertin plase then adjust valve on 1 motor till you hear air comming out of the return port. Then reset circle to another location and do the same with the other motor. All would work fine if I could hear. LOL

Grader4me, the lines look great sofar. I wish someone would give a milion bucks for her when she is finished.
I am thinking about atching a line with an electric valve between the lift cilinders 2 ports so when activated it will give me a float position. any coments?

Here are the pictures of the circle motors before and after

[Jeff D.]

I've never painted with Imron, but I've heard it's real hard on the body if you breath it in.

I wore a respirator this last time when I painted my ROPS, and I still ended up with black paint inside my nostrils, and a big fat hangover style headache from the fumes.

I need to invest in something alittle better.

[Dwan Hall]

I have painted with it and you are right it can kill you.
as far as hard, 1 year after I painted a Datson 240Z a cat and dog had a fight on the hood and never left a mark.

[Dwan Hall]

Yere is the blade suport area, Hoses checked, fittings tightened, motor replaced, 1 bushing replaced and ball mount on left side welded back ware it belongs, then 3 coats of paint.

Second picture showes painted area masked and the removal of the front drive shafts for inspection and painting.
Still working my way back.

[Jeff D.]

Dwan, were you ever able to learn the history of this grader? Where it originally started it's life out, etc.? Local?

On that motor with the broken ear, is that piece cast? I broke an ear of a loader cylinder once, that was cast, and it was a big job to get it repaired correctly. They had to diassemble it, heat it up quite hot before welding, and cool it slowly. It wasn't something I would've attempted. You're probobly better off replacing it like you did, if it were.

I don't imagine they were easy to find though?

[Dwan Hall]

Ran into a guy last week that said his uncle bought it new or bext to new back in 65 and brought it to Juneau. he sold it and it has sence been through 4 or 5 other hands sence then. I plan on running down the old owners when it is finished and have kind of a reunion. See what kind of history it had.

Yes the ear was cast. I may try to repair it the right way but only when I have a lot of time. About 15 years ago I spun a bearing on one of my Bobcats in a cast houseing. Had to heat the hole thing up, build up the ares that needed repaired then cover it with hot sand and let it cool for 2 days. then turn the area ware the bearing race sets. Job worked out great infact the bobcat is still running on that repair job. it took 4 days total so I will wait till I have a lot of time on my hands. @ $500 I can buy 2 or 3 of them on a days wages.

I have found 2 old AW's in Alaska. 1 on the Alcan sitting at the end of an old runway and the other in Valdeze Both look like junk but getting hold of the owner is going to be the problem. I have found 2 wrecking yards with AW's so I can find some parts.

Here is a shot looking forward and 1 of the cab and motor area after outside cleaning.

[Ford LT-9000]

Got to be carefull with 2 part paints especially with the thinners some of that stuff is really bad for you. The thinners and paint reducers can go right through the pores of your skin right into your blood stream.

I know quite a few automotive painters and boat painters they all have problems with their nervous system from the affects of the paint. Bad stuff for sure. Back in the earlier days dad used to do body work but all they had was laquer based paints.

We also painted allot with International Paint 2 part epoxy coal tar paint that stuff has a horrible smell talk about head ache maker.

[Grader4me]

Grader4me, the lines look great sofar. I wish someone would give a milion bucks for her when she is finished.
I am thinking about atching a line with an electric valve between the lift cilinders 2 ports so when activated it will give me a float position. any coments?




If there is any way that you can rig it up with a float, I would say go for it. Be great for plowing snow. Also great for learning, as when you hit the switch both sides of the blade goes level onto the ground. Then take it off float, make your adjustments (depending on what you are doing) and away you go.

[Dwan Hall]

Here is a little red on her nose and a black ram.

[Dwan Hall]

Still working my way toard the back.

Found a seat out of an SUV just fits except for the color.

Looking at the old 471 I think to my self "What did I get myself into"

Didn't have much time for her today as I had to grade a church parking lot befor it froze. used one of the bobcats as I have done for the last 24 years. Wonder what it will be like to use the right tool for the job?

[Grader4me]

What would it look like if you painted the hydraulic hoses black as well? I am looking at the one on the lift piston. It's just that with all the fresh paint these lines stick out like a sore thumb. I used to paint these lines on a couple of graders that I used to run...made them look real good.

[Dwan Hall]

Back when I was in the service we painted our jump boots with a rubber based paint. if I could find it again I would try it. eather that or I will have to find a way to clean the old yelow paint off or replace them. I know I can scrape it off but I am not sure how much damage to the hose I will cause.

[Ford LT-9000]

You might be changing those hoses pretty soon if they are old the only thing that I could think off that would work to make them look black would be liquid electrical tape its pliable and it comes in black but it might be too expensive.

I do agree the hoses do stick out you can always just try paint them with a flat black paint and spray it on so its thin coats. I don't know if I would want to try scrape the old paint off.

As for the old 4/71 does it run I can't remember reading if you said it does or not. Cheapest option would be rebuild the 4/71 or try find a 6/71 if it will fit. I'am surprised they used a 4/71 in that grader how does it compare in size to a 740 Champion ?

[Dwan Hall]

The 4/71 runs great. Smokes a little if let idle for 1/2 hour or so. Some of that could be the 3 year old fuel. I have been offered a new 4/71 still in the crate for cheep. I may take it for a spare. If I was to change out the motor it would be to something newer and a lot quieter.
The hoses look ok for now or atleast till I get the machine running. I can clean them up enough so as to not notice the yellow on them. I am still going to look for that rubber paint we used on our jump boots though. There is no bad weather checking and none leak or seep yet. I will look into changing them out when I make a float system for the blade.

[Ford LT-9000]

It could be the breather boxes are loaded up with oil which is common when you idle a Jimmy allot. You also should be running a high detergent oil Esso makes one especially for the 2 strokes.

A John Deere 6 cylinder would probably work pretty good they are about 6.8 litre in displacement the turboed version puts out about 200hp. Second option would be a 466 International.

Your lucky the machine doesn't have a 53 series man those are even louder than a 71. A 3-53 or 4-53 are loud screamers. You put a turbo on a detroit it quietens them down a little.

The old 740 Champions could be heard for miles with the old 6/71 pegged the newer 740s have L-10 or M-11 Cummins so much quieter.

If you are going to keep the original engine got to paint it factory Alpine green a old detroit has to be green or its not a green leaker. The 92s were painted silver and dubbed the silver series.

[Dwan Hall]

Took a little time off today to work on my logo. There is no place large enough on the machine to put my normal size one so I had to cut one out that was a little smaller.

[Grader4me]

I really don't think that you will have the heart to work that little honey when you finish. My god you must have a lot of patience. Can't wait to see the finished product. :)

[Dwan Hall]

The hoses cleaned up real nice today. They will be just fine. I scraped some of the paint off then sanded them a little just to cut into the paint, then washed them down with brake cleaner and treated them with some rubber treatment to replace what the brake clean took away.

I also installed a new muffler which was 4' long. and 8" in dia. the old one was only 1' long and 8" in dia. You wouldn't beleave the differance it made. I like the sound it makes now. Also cleaned up some wireing up front and replaced the old round headlights with a set of Myer plow lights with turn signels built in. I have to take them back off and paint the mounts but I think they look nice.

I realy got pissed at myself today because I took 3 of the plexaglass windows out and had safty glass made for them. Turns out the plexaglass was the wrong size so now the glass ones are also. Just a little short and at a price of $200 I will have to make them work. It is not like me not to doubble check things before I do things like that.
I want to replace the knobs on the control levers but I am not sure ware one might find new ones. Billard balls are to big otherwise I would try them.

If you look close you can see I have put a small piece of rubber between the pipe and the holddown. I did this on my bobcats about 20 years ago and reduced the chafing to none so I thought I would do it here also.

[Dwan Hall]

I am on a different computer and don't have the same picture editing software so I have to post these 1 at a time.

[Dwan Hall]

This one is the one with the lights.

[Countryboy]

Dwan, if you go to an auto parts store, look at the after market automotive shifter knobs. Most are made to be universal and come with threaded inserts of different sizes and thread types. I put a Hurst shifter in my Chevy and the knob I got had 12 different inserts. There were many different style knobs also.
If you want to go the billard ball route, just find one of those minature kids pool tables. The balls are about half the size of the regular ones.

[Grader4me]

The way you did up the hoses was a good idea. I used to just spray them with black paint. Makes a big difference doesn't it? The rubber between the holddowns and the pipe is a good idea as well. On the old 77 Champion that I used to run I had a lot of problems with those steel lines. They would even chafe through on the bottom where they layed on the frame. Or course they moved around a lot due to the rocky roads that I had to scrape.
I would replace them with the rubber hoses when they would start leaking. Eventually they were all replaced with the hoses.
Headlights look good. Shouldn't have much of a problem to find some knobs. Countryboy had some good ideas.

[jmac]

Dawn, really looks great! I wish I could do that to my equipment. Just don't have a big enough shop to put it in. Would be nice for the winter to have a nice big shop, heated of course to spend a couple of months on each one. I spent so much on equipment in the last few years that buying a piece of land, putting a building on it with a well, septic etc just is not in budget, but some day. It is going to be a shame to get your new grader all dirty.

[Dwan Hall]

Thanks all for the encouragement. I have a long way to go before it will get any mud on it.

[Squizzy246B]

Excellent work Dwan...keep the pic's coming...keep going like that and I'm going to have to send over a Hart Parr:cool:

[Dwan Hall]

The hoses and lift rams came out ok. I still have to replace a seal in one of them. also have to paint the uper part of the main frame. Didn't do much again today.

[Jeff D.]

You must have been saving pics for awhile, because you say it's going slow, yet there's alot of work that's been done between the different photo's. In one it looks like the cab is black and the windows are in. Either that or you're not as slow a worker as you think.:wink2

Regardless, it looks really good. You really have something there too be proud of Dwan!!:thumbsup

I was going to ask, does it have a generator or an alternator on it now? With your other improvements ditching an old gererator could be another improvement, if it wasn't done already.

[Dwan Hall]

It has a 140 amp alt. on it. and yes some of the work has already been done but not near enough to show it all yet. I figure I am still about 1 month from a place ware I can take a brake till summer. I want to get the rest of the painting, wireing, lights, strobes, and interior done yet this year. I still have some machanical work to do like a few seals and I do want to go through the transfer case as the oil in it is milky. I have not made up my mind weather to change out the back window and make it non opening or try to make something work to keep it as an opening window. It does not get very hot here and the motor does put out a little noise so I am leaning to a solid window in the back. I do have to finish painting the interior, insulating it and building an insterment panel. I also want to install 2 different heaters. one on the floor to keep my feet warm and the other on the top to defrost the windows. both with seperate controls.
I still need to install the lights to the rear, work lights and stop/tail/strobe lights. I plan on making light boxes for thoes. And I still have to figure out a system for the blade to float. I still need end bits on the blade also.
See I still have a long way to go.

[Jeff D.]

I still have to figure out a system for the blade to float.Here's one idea. It's a mechanical 4 port switch and 4 T's added to the 4 lines going to your cylinders. It could be plumbed as close to the actual valve as needed, but would need to be accessable from inside the cab. Possibly a rod, etc. to push/pull the control, and have it mounted underneith the cab.

When pushed in, the system would operate as per normal. When pulled out the lines are connected together. Fluid can flow in any direction needed, freely. Blade would float, and moving the standard control valves would do nothing (fluid would just bypass)until pushed back in.

Heres the valve: http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_36718_36718&issearch=2070

I used this valve on a tractor once to use one control valve to operate two cylinders independantly. It worked well, but was plumbed in a different manner than yours would need to be.

Or you could use two seperate electricaly activated switches could work too, with the 4 T's added in a similair fashion. I couldn't find any of those switches where I looked though.

[Dwan Hall]

I like the idea of 2 seperate valves operated by electric switches. lets me float eather side seperatly. I would like to mount the valves someware around the cylinders with a on-off-momintery switch to each.
I never though of the way you have here but that would work fine if I can't find what I want.

Thanks.

[Grader4me]

I have not made up my mind weather to change out the back window and make it non opening or try to make something work to keep it as an opening window. It does not get very hot here and the motor does put out a little noise so I am leaning to a solid window in the back.


I would just make it a solid window. A rear window that opens would help cirulate the air better, but also it would make it louder in the cab. Also more chance of picking up exhaust fumes.
So what type of plowing will you be doing with your grader...parking lots etc?

[RonG]

I am a little surprised that the moldboard controls do not have a float position since the system is hydraulic.
The standard control layout on most graders is having the moldboard lever to the extreme end of the control quadrant for the respective sides and optionally you will find some with both levers side by side on the right which is what I prefer as you can run both sides with one hand which frees your other hand up for other things.
The reason I mention this is because the last grader I ran was a John Deere and the owners graciously changed the control configuration to the right hand position for me.
The down side in this case is that you lose the float position for the left hand side of the moldboard because changing the hoses to accomodate my preferred style left the valve body with the float position still on the lefthand end of the quadrant controlling something that didn't need a float position.
Now,to get to my point here,John Deere has already thought about this and they sell a kit just for the purpose of returning the float function to the valvebody that controls the left end of the moldboard to accomodate those of us who like it that way.I don't know if you could incorporate any of this on your Austin Western but when I went through heavy equipment school in 1960 at Fort LeonardWood we learned on Cat 12's AND Austin Westerns.The Austin Western was hydraulic of course and although I cannot say for sure it would seem as though it had a float position on it.It sure would do a lot of things but my memory is not that good so I can't say for sure.
Maybe you could find something in a boneyard someplace or used on the internet.Good luck,you are doing a great job with it.I always enjoy seeing old equipment restored to work again.The AW's that I ran in the military had the International engines that started on gas then switched over to diesel.You are certainly better off with the Detroit.Ron G:thumbsup

[Dwan Hall]

I would just make it a solid window. A rear window that opens would help cirulate the air better, but also it would make it louder in the cab. Also more chance of picking up exhaust fumes.
So what type of plowing will you be doing with your grader...parking lots etc?

My feelings exactly on the window. I guess I could always change it back in I needed to.

I plow mostly parkinglots but who knows what it might be used for. For now it keeps me out of the bars. eather kind.

Thanks RonG I will look into the posability of AW having the option of a float.

[Dwan Hall]

Well it has been snowing here so I have been busy plowing/sanding. But here aer more pictures toard the back of the machine.

Welded up some cracks on the cab.

The hood removed

and cab in primer.

[Dwan Hall]

A little more here and a little more there. I still don't know ware it will ever end.

[Dwan Hall]

If it wern't for the paint fumes I probably wouldn't post so many pictures.

[atgreene]

Awesome job Dwan! Looking good.

[Jeff D.]

If it wern't for the paint fumes I probably wouldn't post so many pictures.Keep posting them!!:yup I know I'm enjoying them, and it's more fun to look at a makeover like this than some of the "Pimp my ride" stuff they have on TV.

Good thing you're not closer, too. I think those tires would fit my loader.:bouncegri

[Dwan Hall]

By the time I get done you may change your mind. We may have to change the thread title to "Pimp my Ride"

[jmac]

Dawn you will have to get a hat with a feather in it, and some blingage for around your neck.

[Dwan Hall]

More on the painting procedure.
Strip off the old paint
acid ech exposed steel
primer with 2 part epoxi acid eching primer
seal with primer sealer
3 coats of color using 2 part urathane enamel with hardner. (Dupont)

The finish after 3 months of hardning can not be affected even pooring battery acid on it if it is washed off within 1/2 hour, will not rust if left under saltwater for 30 days, Will loose up to 20% gloss after 7 to 10 years when left in the sun, (Not a problem here :) ).

The wheels are finished except for the cleaning of the last owners overspray and siping the tires. oh ya and 1 stud and lugnut.

[Grader4me]

lol...I like how you detailed the lettering on the tire. :thumbsup

[Dusty]

that looks great i wish i had the space and the time to do jobs like that
{oh yeah skill would be nice to} keep the pics comming

[Dwan Hall]

I haven't had much time to work on this because we got 2' of snow in the last 24 hours and I think I need some sleep.
Some more progress from before the snow fall.

The cab is painted red and some small parts.

[Countryboy]

Looking better every day Dwan. It makes me want to find a "fix 'er up 'er" to work on. Although that is an understatment to what you are doing which appears to be a full restoration.


Keep the pics coming...

[Dwan Hall]

Masking, Masking, Masking will it ever end? This is a big project and keeping the overspray off your work is a pain. It would be different if this project was the only thing going on in the shop. But keeping 3 plows, 2 sanders, and my 2 old bobcats going at the same time is realy a pain. My next shop is going to have a seperate bay just for painting.

[Grader4me]

After you painted your rims what did you use to clean the paint/overspray off of your tires? Is there is still overspray on the rear tandem tire?

[Dwan Hall]

After you painted your rims what did you use to clean the paint/overspray off of your tires? Is there is still overspray on the rear tandem tire?

If you wilnotice back in post #46 the second shot of a rim in primer there is a 2" band which just fits on the rim so my overspray does not get on the tires.

The yellow overspray was from the last owner when they painted it yellow.
I removed the yellow overspray with 360 sand paper then a rag soaked in MEK to wash it then I applyed a light coat of high heat black spray paint because it has a flat finish. Hope they wil keep looking the way it does now.


I should have set this in my front yard for Holloween, it could have been my jackolantern. LOL.

[Dwan Hall]

After you painted your rims what did you use to clean the paint/overspray off of your tires? Is there is still overspray on the rear tandem tire?

If you wilnotice back in post #46 the second shot of a rim in primer there is a 2" band which just fits on the rim so my overspray does not get on the tires.

The yellow overspray was from the last owner when they painted it yellow.
I removed the yellow overspray with 360 sand paper then a rag soaked in MEK to wash it then I applyed a light coat of high heat black spray paint because it has a flat finish. Hope they wil keep looking the way it does now.


It has been snowing so my posts will be short for the next few days.

[Dwan Hall]

Well I ran into a problem. I let the red set to long and the black would not stick. it was weard it just gathered up in bunches like I was shooting over pure silicone. Anyway I wiped the black back off with some thinner and scufed up the red with a scotch brite pad and all went well from there.
I also got some new glass to replace the plastic that was on a few of the windows and went ahead and tinted it along with the origional glass that was left.

[Dwan Hall]

The windows w/35% tint
They may seem dark but when looking from the inside out they are ok.
The last picture showes a window with tint and above that no window at all for compairison

[Ford LT-9000]

Are you going to insulate the cab so in the winter a person doesn't freeze to death :eek:

The grader is looking good I bet you will be glad when the painting is all finished.

[Steve Frazier]

Is this the original paint scheme you are reproducing? I think the only other color I've ever seen a grader was orange, I think it was an old Gallion if I remember right. Could the orange have been faded red? Very unique. I don't think I've ever seen an AW grader before.

[Dwan Hall]

Is this the original paint scheme you are reproducing? I think the only other color I've ever seen a grader was orange, I think it was an old Gallion if I remember right. Could the orange have been faded red? Very unique. I don't think I've ever seen an AW grader before.

I have seen AW's in red, green, orange, and yellow.

This one was red when new. (not this color red, this is my co. colors)
I am not going to try to make it origional but make it suite what I want.

I am going to try to add some insulation I have to the inside and also 2 heaters. one on the floor for my feet and one hanging from the top to defrost the windows. The 2 units together should put out about 60,000 btu. and with the 3/4 high density foam insulation should keep it warm. I am also thinking of heating the seat before I reapolster it. Right now it is 2 below outside so I am looking at all options for heat.

[Ford LT-9000]

You also going to want sound deadning so you can cut back on the road oiler noise maker that powers the grader :laugh

What would work good is a bus heater it runs off of hotwater from the engine.

[Jeff D.]

Dwan, I wonder how much heat that Detroit will produce in the winter?

I've driven some vehicles with 6V92's & 8V71's. They were cold when they weren't working. You could almost watch the temp guage drop when you pulled you foot off the throttle.

I supose if all else fails, and you're still cold with the added insulation and heaters a Webasto aux. fuel powered heater could be added. Kind of a spendy fix though.

I've had the fun of trying to stay warm in really cold trucks(Freightliners). With the Detroit 60series below 0 I'd crank the idle up to about 1200rpm when stopped, and I'd still freeze my Kiwi's off.:crying

She's looking really good though!!:thumbsup

[Ford LT-9000]

Make sure you eat some bean burritos and a couple bowls of chilli with kidney beans it should keep you warm :bouncegri

Seriously thou I agree with Jeff the two strokes do cool off a little quick I don't know how much heat you will get from a 4/71.

I have heard Proheat is a good brand of heater it might be a little expensive.

[Dwan Hall]

I suspose we will see. there are shutters on the radiator they may help and I plan on installing side doors around the motor. I also have a 12V electric heating pad I was going to install under the seat cover.
Anyway thanks for the "cool" information. I never knew the V71's ran that way.

Here is some more shots of the glass and 2 tone paint. the last shot I added a yellow strip between the black and red to off set it a bit.

[Dwan Hall]

Another shot after removing some more masking paper.

and a cool shot of the controls. I think a set of joy sticks would be the only way to go.

[tylermckee]

wow, looks great :thumbsup

[Dwan Hall]

The snow has put a stop to any ferther work for a few weeks. it is now sitting out side getting cold. need the shop to keep the plows running and keep the sanders inside at night.

[Grader4me]

Another shot after removing some more masking paper.

and a cool shot of the controls. I think a set of joy sticks would be the only way to go.


Yup, go for the joy sticks Dwan...nothing would surprise me now :)
Excellent job...something to be very proud of. Shame to see the little honey sitting out in the snow.

[Ford LT-9000]

Whoo that picture of the grader with 12"s of snow on it makes me feel cold :laugh

Actually we are getting our first hit of snow this year on the West Coast. I know our Pacific Northwest members are probably seeing the snow aswell.

Rotten white crap its a hinderance it stops work around here :Banghead

[Dwan Hall]

Love the snow I make more money hauling snow then anything else. Just wish it didn't take up shop space to keep the sanders inside.

[Ford LT-9000]

You better build another shed or shop for the trucks and keep one shop for equipment restorations :yup

A person never can have enough covered heated storage.

[jmac]

A person never can have enough covered heated storage

This is my problem, I need to solve it in the next couple of years. Dawn the grader looks great! It would be great to have a shop your size with all the fixings. I wook out of a 15 x 40 single story 7' tall doors garage. Can't get the skid steer in it, so forget anything else. My pickup won't fit in all the way. The space is for tool storage.

[Dwan Hall]

Took me 20+ years to get this far and I don't think I will ever have enough heated dry space to work unless I move to the no snow/rain belt down south and I don't think that will ever happen.
This is the shop in the background. 26' deep and 56' long, 3 open bays with lift and 1 seperate bay. I installed a bathroom w/shower 2 years ago and an overhead office w/ storage space in the overhead 8' x 56'. 3 years ago. waste oil heat (1000 gal a year) and a planed overhead 2 ton trolly crane.

[jmac]

Very nice place Dawn. It takes alot to get to the point that you are. I am still spending alot on equipment, but this year I think I have most of what I need. Just have a 20 ton trailer left to get in the spring and I should be good for while. Bought the Mack dump truck, Komastsu PC150, and Case 72" single drum roller, 8000 watt generator, new laser system, and new welder this year :crying

Here is a photo of a barn I am looking at very close to my house
2735

[Ford LT-9000]

Thats a decent sized shop you have there Dwan.

What allot of guys are doing here are buying those metal buildings they are not the Qwanset huts but they are a barn shape building with a hip roof.

[jazak]

That grader looks great.:yup :thumbsup Nice shop btw.

[alan627b]

Dwan, you are doing a fabulous job on that grader! You must be a glutton for punishment, or just obsessed like the rest of us...if you don't miond some crossbreeding, I am betting you can get knobs for the levers from your Cat dealer, they sell quite a selection of them. Made from phenolic resin or some other hard plastic. Quite a job you are doing and keep up the good work.
It's going to be too nice to use when it's done though....
alan627b

[Dwan Hall]

Alan, Thanks I can't wait for a brake in the weather so I can git back to work on it. I have been able to repair a few of the little things that do not require the grader to be in the shop. Like the heater. Had to patch a hole in the core and replace the fan motor. Hope to get the seat cover done in the next few weeks. When I get it back inside I will build the rear light fixtures and thenI can start wireing it. Looking at new gages and switches. Still have to pick the strobe light system I want to use. I also need to come up with the end bits for the blade. I also have to replace the back window which I think will be a 1 piece non opening unit. Still a lot left to do.

[proteksandblast]

looks like you took some pride in this project. this info may help you with future refurbs. 1/ mask all areas with cardboard and duct tape where you dont want sand to damage " reverse mask on rams will be easier to remove". sand is always the most efficiant method of cleaning and well as giving you a good anchor pattern for base coat to grip to about 1.5-2.5 mils. 2/ a good base coat is key to getting a long service life out of any coating "Endura 321 intermix epoxy" is what i recomend, fills profile in one coat and has a topcoat window of 1 hr to 2 weeks this is a non sanding primer but ultra hard so apply evenly. 2/ apply 1 medium wet coat of EX-2C aliphatic polyurethane wait 20 min and apply second coat "wet". It takes us about 18hrs to prep blast and paint a grader "24 hr cure, you simply cannot beat this sytem. Endura backs it with a 5 yr warranty. This system gives you 6-8 mils DFT, and will last longer than you need it to.


Remember after blast befor you start or move you equipment blow it down until sand is completely removed.

[Dwan Hall]

looks like you took some pride in this project. this info may help you with future refurbs. 1/ mask all areas with cardboard and duct tape where you dont want sand to damage " reverse mask on rams will be easier to remove". sand is always the most efficiant method of cleaning and well as giving you a good anchor pattern for base coat to grip to about 1.5-2.5 mils. 2/ a good base coat is key to getting a long service life out of any coating "Endura 321 intermix epoxy" is what i recomend, fills profile in one coat and has a topcoat window of 1 hr to 2 weeks this is a non sanding primer but ultra hard so apply evenly. 2/ apply 1 medium wet coat of EX-2C aliphatic polyurethane wait 20 min and apply second coat "wet". It takes us about 18hrs to prep blast and paint a grader "24 hr cure, you simply cannot beat this sytem. Endura backs it with a 5 yr warranty. This system gives you 6-8 mils DFT, and will last longer than you need it to.


Remember after blast befor you start or move you equipment blow it down until sand is completely removed.

I would love to have acces to some type of sand blaster but there is not 1 within 500 miles that is avalable for privet use and the 1 that is in the area only uses it to blast out a incenerator for the landfill and will not alow it to be used for anything else. I would buy 1 for myself but I do not have enough work to worent it and I also do not want to take on anymore work for other people. I have enough work for my next 2 lifetimes.
My location keeps me from trying other products as they eather have to be barged in or broght in by air. We only have 1 paint supplyer in town and he only handles Dupont at this time. NAPA here has droped ther paint line so I don't even have that.
The way I am doing this referb is not the fastest but it does alow me to inspect every part. remove them, clean them, replace what I think need replacing the reassemble it.. I am learning a lot about this grader by having to do it this way. I wish all I had to do was take a can of Krylon and be done but for what I want out of this project that would not be an option.

Again thanks for your sugestions and I will use what I can.

Dwan

[Ford LT-9000]

We used to sandblast at my famillies operation untill we started getting flack from the neighbours. Also the enviroment guys were getting on our back about the sandblast sand. Once its been used its classes as toxic waste so we tried recycling the sand it was allot of work. We used the lava rock sand it never did cut very good the second time around and very dusty.

The current sandblast pot we have now holds 200lbs of sand we did have a 400lb pot. The compressor we have is too big for the job she sucks back the diesel quick. Its a 600cfm compressor the 6v71 barely revs up as we are only drawing 180 psi off of it.

After seeing a company doing water jetting its the way to go it peals the rust off pretty quick. At 40,000 psi water pressure that would take anything off.

Protek I don't think the use of Endura is legal in the US it doesn't meet EPA rules or something like that. Endura is good paint but its deadly seen the affects with boat painters that work in the area.

[proteksandblast]

endura has a new low VOC component b that we use somewhere along the lines of 2.8 grams per litre, as well as our facility is equipt to deal with all types of high iso paints and coatings, we use all positive air respirators so im assuming these painters you speak of need to be more conscious of there health. Water jetting is definitely the way to go with outside applications but costly to purchase. We rent one when we do large outside projects i think about $6000 a month sure beats $90,000 to buy. Only problem is most of our industrial applications require inspection and we need correct anchor patterns speacialy with our internal pipe and tank linings so we pretty much have to deal with abrasive media.

[Ford LT-9000]

Nobody realized how bad Endura was till the later on years by then it was too late the damage was done. Actually all the new paints are not good for you they get into your blood stream through your skin. Dad used to do autobody work in the 70s and 80s when paints used to be laquer.

There is one company up the coast from me that does water jetting I actually never heard about it untill they did a job in the area. I said BS water can't beat conventional sandblasting I was proven it is just as good or better and no mess. I had a look at the pump and system they used it looked very expensive. I talked to one of the workers they said the water would cut you leg off :eek2

For us any sandblasting has to be done out side not many places around have a shop large enough to do blasting on the inside. So its wait till a nice sunny dry day to do sandblasting.

It is good to know that endura makes a safer paint to work with. Many people think endura is a junk paint, its not I had couple trucks painted with it. Many people in the area have had trucks painted with it. It looks good and its fairly cheap to give a truck a fresh look.

[proteksandblast]

There are so many different products out there nowadays it hard to keep up on them all, and sad to say the better the paint the worse it is on the applicator.So training and safety awareness is a very big part of our job.

Ive been an applicator for almost 18 yrs and have used appropriate protective equipment since day 1. I am healthy and have no resperatory problems, but like you say back then not many painters were educated about the products they used.

As far as sandblasting goes they are slowly outlawing the use of silica sand here. We still use it on all of our equipment cause of low cost and its cutting rate.We are, in the very near future going to set up our blast bay to handle steel grit.

I like Endura's urethane simply cause its the longest lasting finishing paint out there, we warrantee all our work so high performance is a must.

[Dwan Hall]

Well I was forced to work on it some moor this week as the little one I had rented before was no longer avalable.
So I installed the aircleaner and inlet piping, did a little makeshift wireing, changed the oil and hydrolic fluids, tightened a few bolts, and greased over 100 greese fittings. Also installed a few grab handles, rear lights (temp), stuck in the seat I found, and fueled her up.
I had to do all this work because the RV park needed graded befor the season started. Now it is time to see if I will be able to learn how to run it with only the help all you guys can give me over the net. wish me luck.

Thinngs that still need done are
blade end bits, strobe light system. insulate cab, install the 2 heaters I have, wireing for all the lighting and accesseries, install battery mount. (battery is setting on floor now) Replace rear window with 1 piece unit and remove painted plexaglass one. paint code greese zerks. The list goes on and on.

[CascadeScaper]

She looks beautiful!!! You should be very proud of her, that piece has come a LONG way! Excellent work, my hat is off to you. :drinkup

[Grader4me]

Something to be proud of Dwan! Anything that we can help you with let us know.

[Ford LT-9000]

Wow the old machine looks good :salute

[Jeff D.]

I agree with the others Dwan, you've something there to be proud of. She really looks good.:thumbsup

Have you had a chance to try it at all yet, or has it been only moving it point to point in the process of your rebuild?

[Countryboy]

Excellent job Dwan. :drinkup

The paint job really makes it an eye catcher. :thumbsup

[LowBoy]

That's an awesome Austin, Dwan...something to be proud of. As far as auxiliary heating is concerned, you can buy fairly reasonably, one of those heaters you see in the smaller compact tractors with full cabs, and/or forklifts, that "T" into your heaterhoses and have a built-in fan already to rock & roll...Just connect the coolant lines and a power and ground wire,and you'll be all toasty and warm & fuzzy in no time.They're just a couple of hundred bucks the last time I checked, but the freight to no-man's land up where you are may be twice as much as the stinkin' assembly itself!!!:D

Brainstorm #2) A BIG inverter, about 5K watts, and a Home Depot space heater for home use. Guaranteed, you'll be running that grader in your B.V.D.'s with this setup, but be careful...there's a rumor going around in another thread here about grader operator's and proper conduct/attire, etc...:laugh

[jazak]

You did an AWESOME job on that grader!!!!! Gave it a new life!!!!!

[Dwan Hall]

Have you had a chance to try it at all yet, or has it been only moving it point to point in the process of your rebuild?

I did drop the blade here at the RV park but it was 9:pm and thaught I better not make any noise so only once around the park. Now if that was any indication of what it should do then I love it. MNow mind you I have been grading parkinglots and driveways for 25 years now with an 8' bucket on a 975 bobcat. All I can say is it is sure going to make the few grading jobs a lot easer.
I got stoped in a parkinglot yesterday when doing an estimate for a rock job and asked if I knew ware someone could find a grader for rent. (bild it they will come sendrom) They want 1 1/2 mile road graded back in the mountains that only tour busses drive on. That is 3 jobs and I havn't even turned the lights on. This keeps up it will pay for itself in less then a week.

Here is a shot showing how all out supplys arive in Juneau. My Mobil M-9 is at the top of the pile.

[Dwan Hall]

That's an awesome Austin, Dwan...something to be proud of. As far as auxiliary heating is concerned, you can buy fairly reasonably, one of those heaters you see in the smaller compact tractors with full cabs, and/or forklifts, that "T" into your heaterhoses and have a built-in fan already to rock & roll...Just connect the coolant lines and a power and ground wire,and you'll be all toasty and warm & fuzzy in no time.They're just a couple of hundred bucks the last time I checked, but the freight to no-man's land up where you are may be twice as much as the stinkin' assembly itself!!!:D

I have on of thoes heaters to install on the top so I can direct the air onto the windsheld for defrosting. There is also the stock heater which goes on the floor to warm the feet, melting the snow and foging up the windsheld.

I have a lot of work to do but thanks to all of you guys compliments it gives me an incentive to continue.

Traveling south for a week so progress will be on hold till I return.

[Lashlander]

Grader looks good. Nice pic too!:thumbsup

[bear]

How has the big red machine been doing? Looks good how does she run? Did you work the old girl hard this winter?

[Dwan Hall]

Did some plowing with it. worked great after I put on a set of serrated cutting edge. Plowed 2 trailer parks and the local post office to cut down the ice buildup.
Lights are done and 90% of the wireing is done. still need to do a little painting.
It has 2 leaking seals on rams, left lift ram and side shift ram but nothing I can't live with for now. Drip drip. maybe 1/2 cup after parked for a week between the 2. Seat is installed and sets nice.(found it out of an old suv.) insulation in the cab is also comming along. @ 10 degrees the heater will keep you warm.

The 471 needs a new govenor. But I havn't had time to look for one yet.
I did find the mirriors I want to put on it. Now all I have to do is talk the local tour co. out of a pair.
There is a AW in northern CA. that was built the same year. Low hours and has blade tilt which I would love to put on mine. it is for sale but I can see spending the money for the whole grader minis the transmition plus freight to get it up here just for the blade tilt.
I have more pictures to post but it will be a while as I am busy doing spring cleanup.

The work I have already done with it has been more then I have invested which is always a plus.

[bear]

Glad to hear it's working out. It's always nice to get yer investment money back quick, makes using it that much better. Spring cleaning is always a chore. Not enough hours in the day to get everything done are there?

[Dwan Hall]

Well here it is coming back from a job that made enough money to pay for 3 more of them.
Still have a lot to do on it, like repair a few leaks that showed up after it was warmed up and ran for an 8 hour shift.

[Lashlander]

You've definitely spent some time on the old girl! Looks sharp. Good to see it earning its keep too.

[stumpjumper83]

AWESOME job dwan. She looks like new, cept better. How did the joy sticks turn out, or did you keep the lever row? You have me thinking of picking up an old '64 gallon w/ the same engine. They are asking $1500, I'm thinking I might try to get it at $1000.

[Dwan Hall]

Still has the lever bank, That will never change.

There is a 58 Gallon here that a guy tried to give me after seeing what I did to the AW. it has a 3/71 in her and is a lot loader then my 4/71. it has been kept indoors most of it's life and in real good shape. only used now for grading a trailer park, but the owner is getting older and does not want to run it any more. See the catch coming here?
I am not interested in another project but I will be taking over the grading of the trailer park along with the snow plowing/sanding in the winter.
Now this is what I had expected of the old girl, not so much the work but the advertising. The blade would never have to touch dirt but she is a advertising billboard.

[stretch]

Hey Dwan, I went looking through the site trying to follow the story of your AW...it was well worth the search. That's a great-looking machine!

[rocko59]

Hey Dwan WOW, I just finished reading the whole topic, nice work & a beautiful machine you have there! I have run various Champions & looked after a lot of road in northern Saskatchewan with 740's, the 6-71's made enough heat to keep from freezing. They also had electric controlled float valves on them, run by solenoids with toggle switches on the control lever bracket. There's some nice looking country up there. Russell

[Dwan Hall]

I want to thank everyone for the encouragement. without it I would not have taken things as far as I have.
I still have a long way to go. I can now take little steps and do 1 part at a time as time permits.
Next step is going to be remove all the control levers, re bush them and new pins to tighten things up a bit then sand blast and pint them. I need to find seals for the control valves as they weep a bit, not bad but bad enough to drip oil on the floor after running a few hours.
I still want to add heating elements to the seat when I reupholsters it.

My wife wants me to add brass handles to the sides so it will be easer to carry when they bury me in it.

D

[Dr. Ernie]

I am looking at a 4x4 model and was wondering if you had any pointers to look for. Also what is the shift pattern on one?

[Dwan Hall]

"H" pattern upper left reverse, lower left 1st, lower right 2nd, upper right 3rd. on the one I have. Transfer case upper left low range, lower right high range.

look for cracks on the main frame about 3 feet in front of the cab. Every one I have seen has ether has cracks there or been repaired there.
there are a lot of them out there for less then 4K. Some even as low as 2K. Look for good sound running gear the rest can be made. and don't expect to find one in perfect shape. Most are over 25 years old.

[Dr. Ernie]

Thank you I was thinking that might be the case but I did not want to look like a tool when I try it out. This one is pretty decent condition, IF I get it I'll post a few pictures. They basicly want scrap price for it, the only thing keeping it from going for less. I grade a few roads around me with a No. 44 Cat pull type, it works great BUT I have to have some one to pull me. The wife does as good of a job or better than any one else, but she can not back up. Also I am going where I am taken and have no choice....If I get this one I'll have a 44 avaible for some one. One more thing can the machine disengage the front axil???

[RocksnRoses]

My wife wants me to add brass handles to the sides so it will be easer to carry when they bury me in it.

D

That's beautiful! :lmao

Congratulations on a job well done Dwan. You have a lot more patience than I have.

Rn'R.

[Dwan Hall]

No it is full time all wheel drive. You can take out ether the front or rear drive shaft and still get around.

Post a few pictures before you get it or e-mail them to me.

Thanks
Dwan

[Dr. Ernie]

I still have not taken any pictures, I bought it the other day though, I am impressed with it though. it runs good, needs some tlc though, new hoses mostley as I blew 2 of them in short order. No cracks or repaired cracks any where, It apears to have had a easy life. The bigest problem is paint, it looks a bit raged. And that I now have a #44 cat pull type that I need to go to a new home...(for sale)

[Dwan Hall]

You are lucky to live in an area ware you can find someone with a sandblaster. If I had of had access to one large enough to do the job I could have cut months off this project. Most every inch of the AW was cleaned with stripper, high pressure hot water, 4" wire wheel on a grinder, down to a tooth brush.
On the other hand you could just farm out the hole project and just have to pay for it.

[Dr. Ernie]

I prefer oven cleaner and a good hot water washer to a sand blaster, I only use the sand when I am preping fresh steel for paint or rust, for every thing else I use water.