Trailer ramp repair.

[Jeff D.]

I figured I'd start a new thread instead of continuing to hi-jack Atgreenes on this subject.

I'd damaged my trailer ramps with the grousers on my dozer while loading it. The cross channels were angle, point down, and slightly elevated above the main side channels.

the grousers were able to get hooked underneith, and pry up/tear the metal cross channels. Since the trailer was still in warrenty I contacted the factory about the problem. They wanted me to bring the trailer back to the selling dealer (their closest anyway)but since this was 150 miles away I'd have too much time/fuel invested in total transportation.

So we discussed the problem, and their "approved" repair for it. They assured me this repair would eliminate any possibility for more damage. So I did their repair myself, and will test it soon. If it still doesn't fix the problem I'll either build new ramps myself(and try to get them to pay), or bring the trailer back to the dealer for warrenty.

Their "repair" procedure consisted of welding 3/4" round steel bars across the edges of the cross members. They said the grousers couldn't get hooked, and would instead roll off them. We'll see!!

I've documented everything I've done, and submitted the pictures and prices of the repair to them. We'll see if they come through. If not, I'm only out $55 bucks, and some time in the garage.

[Steve Frazier]

Nice job!! I've seen that done on other ramps, maybe there's something to it.....

[Bob Horrell]

Jeff, nice repair. I think it should work. My ramps are like yours only the V angle is upside down from the way yours is (^) and it prevents what has happened to yours. Mine also sticks up a little bit from the edge pieces but being upside down is much stronger. If your solution doesn't work you could always try reversing your Vs.

[CT18fireman]

didtn't think of that. Sounds like it should work in theory, of course now to test it. Let us know what happens.

[cat320]

They look good there is one thing that i would of probably done ,maybe not a big deal but the ends that contact the ground would of made it so it will not dig into asphalt drives or street when loading machines. but i'm sure now you will have no problems with them.

[tylermckee]

Yeah thats not a bad idea to put a piece of channel across the bottom, sort of like the leg coming down on the back of the ramp.

[CT18fireman]

Looking again at those ramps, they just look like they were built inside out. Wouldn't it have been better to have the channel facing in to support the angle crossmembers?

[tylermckee]

I was pulling a bobcat trailer once with those style of ramps where you pin them up, one of the pins fell out on the highway and it dropped down. Talk about a spark show.

[Jeff D.]

Looking again at those ramps, they just look like they were built inside out. Wouldn't it have been better to have the channel facing in to support the angle crossmembers?Yup, there's no doubt that they cold've been built better from the start. I'm just trying to do what I can with them now, too correct the problem. Had the angles been "point up" I think that would've prevented all my troubles. The C channel on the sides would've probobly been better flipped too, but I'm guessing they did it this way for the ease of welding it up.They look good there is one thing that i would of probably done ,maybe not a big deal but the ends that contact the ground would of made it so it will not dig into asphalt drives or street when loading machines. but i'm sure now you will have no problems with them.:thumbsup I could still do that. It would'nt be anymore trouble for me too weld a piece across the bottom.(other than burning the paint again)I was pulling a bobcat trailer once with those style of ramps where you pin them up, one of the pins fell out on the highway and it dropped down. Talk about a spark show.I've seen that quit a few times out on the highway.:eek:

[digger242j]

I could still do that. It would'nt be anymore trouble for me too weld a piece across the bottom.(other than burning the paint again)

Cut a little angle at the bottom of the side piece, so that it rests against the ground more or less flat, rather than with a point to dig into the asphalt. And as long as you're burning the paint up, put some angles at the upper end to brace that "foot". The first time you try loading or unloading with that resting on ground that's a little uneven, those will bend--a brace will help prevent that.

[Jeff D.]

Cut a little angle at the bottom of the side piece, so that it rests against the ground more or less flat, rather than with a point to dig into the asphalt. Yup, that would work too.:yup Cut it, and weld a flat piece across the bottom (side to side)for support on the soft stuff.

And as long as you're burning the paint up, put some angles at the upper end to brace that "foot". The first time you try loading or unloading with that resting on ground that's a little uneven, those will bend--a brace will help prevent that. That doesn't sit flat on the ground either, on the bottom. Could use some work in that area too, plus what you said.

[Jeff D.]

I had a chance to test out the ramps while loading the dozer today.

They worked just fine.:thumbsup The only thing that happened was the paint got scratched up.

The grousers are too close together to let the track sink low enough to get under the cross members and bend them.

[OD Load]

i was looking at ramps and talking to the company that made them and they said to use old rubber belt on the ramps when loading track equiment it will still let it bite but will not let the track grab the ramps and break them up might give it a shot

[Jeff D.]

That's a good idea. Thanks! I bought an old conveyor belt for the purpose of making mudflaps. I'll cut a couple of pieces of that alittle longer than the ramps and just throw them down over them before loading, and see how it works.:yup

[Ford LT-9000]

Too bad you live too far away the mines pretty much give away conveyor belting they have a heck of a time getting rid of it.

Keep in mind when conveyor belting is wet its slippery. We use it on barge ramps and have seen excavators slide on it.

[Squizzy246B]

That's a good idea. Thanks! I bought an old conveyor belt for the purpose of making mudflaps. I'll cut a couple of pieces of that alittle longer than the ramps and just throw them down over them before loading, and see how it works.:yup

Send some over for the Robber's Dog will ya!

[Jeff D.]

Send some over for the Robber's Dog will ya!How many stamps do you think I'd need on that envelope?:D

A piece of cow mat, ripped down, might work too. Probobly would get torn up alittle easier, though.:beatsme

[Ford LT-9000]

A tip for cutting conveyor belt is a sharp exacto knife and WD-40. Try cutting without then try WD-40 the rubber cuts like butter. Put a straight edge down spray a line of WD make a couple passes then spray a line down the cut.

[Squizzy246B]

How many stamps do you think I'd need on that envelope?:D

A piece of cow mat, ripped down, might work too. Probobly would get torn up alittle easier, though.:beatsme


What is it with the livestock and my Trailer???:( :rolleyes: :D

[wrenchbender]

What is it with the livestock and my Trailer???:( :rolleyes: :D

:beatsme Seems as though you may have left the gate open cause all the livestock are gone:laugh

[Dirtmaster]

Hi. New to the group. I have a question about the strength of the ramps. I have a stepdeck and recently had a beavertail added to it. I need to construct ramps akin to the ones Jeff is repairing. My question is this: What is the weight of the dozer you're loading onto it? I have a 16 ton tracked machine and don't want to build the ramps too light. Your channel looks like standard 4 inch channel. Is that correct? The ramps look to be what, 4 feet long? Thanks.

[Countryboy]

Welcome to HEF Dirtmaster! :drinkup

[nedly05]

I have a 16 ton tracked machine and don't want to build the ramps too light. Your channel looks like standard 4 inch channel. Is that correct? The ramps look to be what, 4 feet long? Thanks.

I would build the ramps for 16 ton a lot beefier than those ramps, we have the same type ramps that JeffD has, and our 3 ton machine has them tweeked a bit. Look at a rogers or eager beaver trailers ramps and go off from them, they are very well built trailers. Good Luck!

[Dirtmaster]

Good input. A friend of mine has access to some computer simulation software that we may resort to. Runs on a Windows machine and Winders is prone to crashing, so I'll make it a bit beefier than Winders says to! :Banghead
I can always add supports underneath it as necessary.

[Jeff D.]

Hi. New to the group. I have a question about the strength of the ramps. I have a stepdeck and recently had a beavertail added to it. I need to construct ramps akin to the ones Jeff is repairing. My question is this: What is the weight of the dozer you're loading onto it? I have a 16 ton tracked machine and don't want to build the ramps too light. Your channel looks like standard 4 inch channel. Is that correct? The ramps look to be what, 4 feet long? Thanks.Welcome to HEF Dirtmaster! :drinkup
Sorry it took me so long to reply. I've had alot going on lately and haven't checked in for awhile.

I just measured my ramps, they're 3" channel, 3ft long, 18" wide. I use it for a 350 JD dozer approx. 12klbs.

I think they're barely enough for my machine and would be easily crushed by a 16ton machine.:(

I'd definately go heavier, as nedly05 mentioned.

Good luck.:)

[Dirtmaster]

Thanks! I've designed up a set that is 5 feet long, 20" wide, using 4 inch channel and is being analyzed on the infernal pooter right now. If it passes muster, I'll post a picture of them before and after loading. We'll see if the pictures match. :-)

[Leckster]

...:eek:

[cherokee101]

Mine have the apex of the angle up. I end up peeling off the street pads on the trackhoe with disturbing frequency. Need to rebuild with some expanded metal or someting like that.

[Dirtmaster]

They work! Nothing bent and no off-colored knickers.

[Jeff D.]

They work! Nothing bent and no off-colored knickers.Dirtmaster, I gotta ask, what's the story behind the tank? Is that what you built those ramps for?

[Dirtmaster]

Yeah. We just want to take it to shows and parades for the heck of it.The ramps don't appear to bend at all, and the computer model predicts a 0.029" deflection in the middle, worst case. The ramps are 4 inch standard channel and the cross pieces are 2" by 3/8" angle. Length is about 5 feet. Worst case load is 4 tons per ramp, centered on the ramp. Overbuilt, but that sure beats underbuilt! :-)

[Jeff D.]

Yeah. We just want to take it to shows and parades for the heck of it.It's none of my business, but if you don't mind me.........who's tank is it then , possibly yours? You don't appear to be in a Military outfit, atleast by your dress in the pic.:D

What's the lowdown on the tank itself? Manufacturer, gun size, etc?

Sorry so many questions, I'm just curious, and we don't get alot of tanks through the HEF neighborhood,so..............;)

[Dirtmaster]

Yeah, it's our vehicle. Technically,it's a self propelled gun, 105mm. Gun was demilled before we got it. It's just a toy to take to shows and parades. It's a British Abbot from about 1967. We're part of the restoration and collecting hobby. We putt around the neighborhood in it from time to time, and we recently offered rides in it to a charity auction to raise some $ for a family shelter.

[Jeff D.]

Yeah, it's our vehicle. Technically,it's a self propelled gun, 105mm. Gun was demilled before we got it. It's just a toy to take to shows and parades. It's a British Abbot from about 1967. We're part of the restoration and collecting hobby. We putt around the neighborhood in it from time to time, and we recently offered rides in it to a charity auction to raise some $ for a family shelter.Pretty cool stuff man!!:drinkup

I wonder what the difference between a tank and self proppelled gun is, it's armament or the level of protective plating?

I bet that when you stroll over to the neighbors in the tank (er, self proppelled gun..........toy:cool2 )to retreive that weedwacker they borrowed, they're real quick to return it too, huh?! :D

I had a chance once to take a short ride in a tank, at the Minnesota Guards Camp Ripley in '86. An Abrams M1 IIRC. I was amazed at how smooth it road, considering how rough the ground was, and how fast we were actually going.

I also was amazed at how much fuel it used. The Soilder in charge said fuel mileage @ WOT was 7gals/mile.:eek:

I'm glad to see you can use yours for charity events and other stuff. Thank for sharing!

[digger242j]

Hey, Dirtmaster, do you ever get out to the WWII Weekend in Reading PA? (http://www.heavyequipmentforums.com/Forum/showthread.php?t=1511)

[woberlin]

Jeff, the difference between a tank and a self propelled gun is that; a tank is a heavily armored vehicle with a flat trajectory, high velocity cannon, meant for front line use primarly against other tanks. A self propelled gun is basically a lightly armored platform for a howitzer meant for behind the line use as an artillery piece. They are much more versitle than towed artillery, in that they are faster, can travel most terrain, and can be set-up to fire much faster. The light armor also offers some protection, but they are not for front line use.

[Jeff D.]

Woberlin, thank you for that explanation.

I figured it might have to do with the amount of armor, or possibly the gun size, but I seem to recall seeing some tanks with rather small guns, so I doubted it was gun size alone.

[Dirtmaster]

Someone asked if I get to a show in PA. Er, no. I'm in Washington State. Just thinking about the fuel bill to get there gives me the willies.:jawdrop

Woberlin was spot on in his description of the differences between a tank and a self propelled gun. If this SPG got into a dustup with a tank, it'd be dead meat. They did carry 6 rounds of High Explosive Squash Head (HESH) just in case they had to duke it out at short range, but that should never ever happen. Well, lots of stuff should never ever happen in battle, but does. These were made for the British Army of the Rhine in the cold war to support forward infantry. They'd prowl up and down the roads in Western Germany in case the Russians made a move. Specs are: Carries 38 rounds of 105mm (50 pound projectile) and can chuck them up to 10.5 miles. A 5 ton 6X6 accompanies each SPG, full of ammo. SPGs can elevate the gun to 70 degrees for lobbing, whereas a tank has very limited elevation capability.
The gun needs to be locked down in the clamp you can see while traveling, because it's delicate (relatively) and would shear the elevating gears off if you hit a good bump. They usually fire broadsides because if they fire forward, the muzzle blast knocks out the headlights. Doesn't do much good for the driver up front, either. Although, they only fire from a fixed position, so the driver isn't up front anyway. In the unlikely and unfortunate event that you happened upon a tank, the driver reaches out and unclamps the barrel, then the gunner swings the gun around onto target and uses a secondary sight alongside the barrel to fire point blank. Not very fast.

Here's a picture of it loaded up on my 1951 Trailmobile that we made up a beaver tail and ramps for.

[Steve Frazier]

Dirtmaster, your location lists Illinois, which isn't so far from Pa. Do you need to make an adjustment to your profile?

[Dusty]

i so need a tank :usa