79 Interational dump truck

[Jeff D.]

I'm almost finished getting the dumptruck I bought this winter ready for work.

It's a 79 binder,with Dt466,5x4 twin stick tranny,14' 10-12 yrd box,and it has a 50k GVWR.

Work I had done to it: put the hitch on the back,rebuilt rear suspension,rebuilt front tranny(5 speed),sandblast box,frame,axles,rims & new rockers and cab corners.Everything painted. new steers and caps on half the drives,new exhaust from turbo back,and a whole bunch of small stuff(seals,gaskets,hoses,electrical,etc.)

The motor runs good,but I'll do an in frame this winter on it,just to freshen it up.

I paid $4K for the truck,and have put in another $11K so far,so I've a very expensive 79 truck.If it holds up,I feel it was worth it.

[Jeff D.]

Here's a couple more.I lettered it myself,so it has a few imperfections in the lettering.:confused:

[Jeff D.]

The small dents in the side of the box really show,after it was painted.But what can you do??:rolleyes:

[Orchard Ex]

She's looking real good Jeff! I thought that the lettering looked great too! Now about the color scheme match on the seats...
Never driven a 5x4 whats the pattern like?
I also didn't realize that anybody else calls 'em Binders.
I suppose that if the dents really bug you you could install the aluminum capped insulating panels between the ribs... And charge more to keep the digging spoil from... spoiling. Yeah, that's the ticket.:rolleyes:
1483

[Jeff D.]

She's looking real good Jeff! I thought that the lettering looked great too! Now about the color scheme match on the seats...
Never driven a 5x4 whats the pattern like?
I suppose that if the dents really bug you you could install the aluminum capped insulating panels between the ribs...

Thanks.The drivers seat was in it when I bought it,but the passenger side is the original seat from my Mack's passenger side.The dumptruck had a tan vinyl thing on that side when I bought it,so I figured that atleast blue was closer to the drivers seat color than tan.

5X4 shifting order??I'm still not sure what the proper order is.I just put the rear in a lower gear(2nd usually),shift the front up to fifth,and then go up until OD in the rear.If it's too big a jump shifting the rear,I'll down shift the front one.

I like them aluminum inserts you posted!Where did you find that picture?I wonder what they'de cost?

I got my hand mashed between the box and the new side boards,and now it's all swelled up.The board wouldn't slide down all the way,but the second I put my hand inbetween them.........Wham!!:crying

It's one time I wasn't laughing at myself.:rolleyes:

[atgreene]

Looks great! I love those old Binders.

I started out in a 1974 1900 wheeler with the 540? gas and a 2 stick, but 5 & 3. The 3 speed stick was under the seat behind your right knee. I always had to keep presure on it with my leg to keep it in mid range. Right beside that on the floor boards was the auxilary fuel tank valve, about 4 in the afternoon the 50 gallon tank would start to suck dry and I'd have to swap to the 20 gallon reserve. It also had those terrible vaccum brakes, what a horror show. I hit a car that tried to do a sudden illegal U-turn in front of me, it seemed like you could count to 10 before those brakes fetched-up. My boss decided it was time to upgrade after the wreck.

Then I plowed with a 2070A 1978 +- with a 671 coupled to a road ranger with plow wing and frame mounted sander.

And finally my cadillac, a 1986 2500 350 Cummins with an eaton 20 speed. What a going rig. Did 15000 + miles one summer hauling hired out to a larger company. Spent 3 + years in that old girl. I'll never regain the hearing lost in my right ear from the jake brake, but it would run with the best of them.

Good luck with it they are great trucks, I'm envious!

[jmac]

Jeff, welcome to the old but good dump truck club. Took mine today to get NYS inspection and found out that the brake pads are down to the rivets in the front and back axle. The truck was DOT inspected before I took delivery just for this reason. Repair cost is around $1000. Called the dealer in Kentucky and told him that he owes me $1000 or I will call DOT on him for lick'n and stick'n my truck before he shipped. He said that he would send check. Took photo's of pads and saved old one's just in case. The dealer didn't do the DOT he hired truck garage to do it. I wonder if he knew?
Other than that I have had two very good truck guys look at and drive it and both of them said that the truck was a good purchase and ran very strong.
I asked the dealer at least a couple of times if the brakes are good? They said o ya real good. The dealer did replace all of the air reservours on back before sending me the truck. The oil leak in tranny I fixed also just needed a gasket simple fix.

[Jeff D.]

Took mine today to get NYS inspection and found out that the brake pads are down to the rivets in the front and back axle.

Gotta hate that.:mad:

Did it have the dust shields covering the brake parts?I have them removed when I have a brake job done,if they have them.Makes it alot easier to inspect the pads.I guess the pads a supose to wear out faster when they're removed,because dirt can get inbetween the drum/pad,but with them on you have to crawl on your head with a flashlight and look through a tiny slot to see how much pad is left.

I know the pads freeze to the drums alot easier without the shields,in the winter.But a good whack with a hammer will free them right up.If they freeze with the shields on,it's almost impossile to get them free.

Thanks Jmac and Atgreene,for the compliments.I really preferred the cab on my Ford 8000 over this International.The rest of the truck is about the same.
It didn't have a GVWR sticker in the doorframe when I got it,and assumed(wrongly)that it has heavier than it is,because of what it was plated for.The shop that does my work found out for me what it had for axles,and it was 4k lighter than it's registered for.

Oh well,if the state patrol doesn't catch on,I won't tell either.:rolleyes:

[Orchard Ex]

Sorry 'bout your hand Jeff. Might want to keep it cold for the swelling. I usually hold onto a bottle from the fridge - then since that one's just gonna get warm from your hand, might as well empty it. :drinkup Repeat as necessary. By morning the pain will move from your hand to your head .:dizzy
I got the panel pic from the Ox Bodies web site (link) (http://www.oxbodies.com/main.html). You have to click on "dump body" then "options". Not sure where they get the panels or if they make them on site. They were all the rage around here with the asphalt guys a few years back - Don't see it so much anymore. I think a lot of them went to the double wall body instead, not sure though. It does look pretty cool.
On edit - I drove a Ford L8000 a couple summers when in college. I really like the cab too. Everything was just kinda in the right place. Are you guys limited to the GVWR in MN? I know that here I can plate my S/A up to 40k even though the GVW is 33k. Maybe thats only a "little truck" thing - I dunno?:confused:

[Ford LT-9000]

The old 5+4s were common back in the early 80s and 70s the old Macks were famous for twin sticks. I never drove one except for offroad the A box would get stuck and wouldn't shift so it ended up just being a 5spd.

To get rid of dents in the box you cut the side panels out and replace them with new steel. My bother has done that to quite a few boxes and repairing the floor of the box.

[Jeff D.]

Are you guys limited to the GVWR in MN? I know that here I can plate my S/A up to 40k even though the GVW is 33k.

Yup,here it's whichever is the lowest figure.You can't go over you axles designed rating,or the tires ratings,even if the road allows for higher axle loads.

But if you've 44k tandem rear axles,you still can't exceed the limit of 34k for a tandem axle set.Single axle limit is 20k,but 18k for steer axle I believe.

In winter you can get a permit for an additional +10% gross weight,provided you've enough axles,and they're not overloaded.Allowing for up to 88k gross.

Even with a 50k GVWR,I'm limited to 46k gross.I think it weighs around 19-20K empty,so I'll only be able to load around 26k in the box.Might get 10 yards in depending,but not if it's a load of class 5.

LT,I hardly noticed the dents when it was rusty green colored,so I didn't think it would be so bad.But after it was painted shiny red,uugh!!:rolleyes:

[Ford LT-9000]

When the paint starts to oxidize the dents will disapear if you paint the box white you wouldn't see anything :bouncegri

You may find a good Aluminum box in your travels it will boost the payload abit.

As for carrying capacity we are allowed 38,000 on the rear tandem and upto 20,000lb on the front. The common gvw for a tandem axle is 57,540lbs the truck should legally carry 15 ton.

[Jeff D.]

You may find a good Aluminum box in your travels it will boost the payload abit.


That would be great,but with my kinda luck???:spaz

I price a brand new steel box.Without hydraulics/box only they wanted $7900+ tax.

I figured the old box was good enough,after finding that out.

[Ford LT-9000]

Wow thats cheap a brandnew 16'6" Western style box we use on trucks here is 14,000 dollars plus that doesn't include a hoist. One of the contractors here put a dump together last year it cost him close to 20,000 dollars for a decent used box with new PTO Dump pump and controls.

[Bob Horrell]

What is the hp on the 466? Does it have turbo? I have a 91 Int. 4900 with a 466 that has turbo but no air to air cooler. I am currently in the process of adding a cooler. The 466 can easily be turned up to 270 to 300hp with the cooler. With a full load you will probably be looking for a little more hp, even with all those gears.
Many years ago I learned how to drive a semi with a 5X4 tranny. It was a pain, but at the time I was young and thought it was cool. My biggest problem was remembering what gear I was in. I was in the mountains of Colorado and if I stayed in a gear for long enough, I had to think about what gear I was in before shifting, and if I waited too long to remember, things got interesting real quick.

[Jeff D.]

What is the hp on the 466? Does it have turbo? I have a 91 Int. 4900 with a 466 that has turbo but no air to air cooler. I am currently in the process of adding a cooler. The 466 can easily be turned up to 270 to 300hp with the cooler. With a full load you will probably be looking for a little more hp, even with all those gears.


Bob,it does have a turbo,but no air to air.I believe it's 235hp.It was checked on the highest hp(farthest to left) on the sticker on the valve cover,but the sticker was half ripped off,so I couldn't see what the HP was where it was checked.I think the next hp down was 210hp,so it's more than that.

You mentioned putting on an air to air.Is there a kit aval. or is it something you'll have to piece together yourself?I know the air to air helps out in every aspect.Power/fuel mileage/exhaust temp.
A real win-win if it can be fitted!!I've also heard some stuff about giving it alittle wiff of propane,but am not real keen on that idea.

I bought the truck for a redi-mix plant.It was their spare,but nobody wanted to use it because of the twin sticks.He did say though,that it would outpull their other trucks with 300hp Cummins.That may have just been smoke being blown up my backside too,I don't know.

I've run some trucks with the DT-360's in them.This one doesn't seem any noticeably better than those,to me.

[digger242j]

Beuatiful truck, Jeff! But you really need to mow the lawn...

***

[Jeff D.]

But you really need to mow the lawn...

I do,I do.......about twice a year.:yup

That's not actually lawn in the picture though.That area is more of a pasture.
I'll knock that down with the Farmall soon.The lawn gets mowed every week or so.

Thanks for the compliment,too!!:)

[Bob Horrell]

The 466 is substantially more motor than the 360. They are actually a very durable little motor and pretty easy to maintain and modify. Check to see how much room you have in front of your radiator. The air to air coolers are less than an inch thick. You may have to fabricate a mounting bracket. They are usually mounted to the frame on each side. The plumbing is pretty straight forward - several metal tubes connected with pieces of hose and clamps. Most of the air to air coolers on the 466 have the connections at the top of the cooler on each side just above the radiator, so you have to make sure you have enough room for the connection there. Hoses are 3 inch there so you would need about 4 inches of room when your hood is down.
The intercoolers became available for the 466 in the very early 90s and there are only a couple of versions for all the trucks made with the 466. Since there are many many of these trucks and motors around, it shouldn't be hard to find one in a salvage yard you could rob the parts off of. That is what I am going to do. The dealer wants $1900 bucks for all the parts needed with the air to air cooler being half the cost. At a salvage yard you could probably pick up everything you need for less than $500. A new air to air cooler is $525 on the internet. If you find one at a salvage yard a quick pressure test would tell you if it is good. Just look inside and make sure there is no oil.
Like you said the benefits are many and would make it well worth the effort.

[Ford LT-9000]

The one problem you have to deal with is you can't put too much power to a 5spd if its not rated high enough. Usually those old 5+4s have transmission are originally for gas pots. If you get enough power and load you may snap the input shaft ***

The DT360 and 466 is the same block just different displacement I drove a old 1700 International with a 360 talk about gutless. The 466 in the tandem will be pretty slow too you will probably only get 250hp out of it reliably. I don't think a intercooler will do much if you can't dump anymore fuel into it. You might be limited to how much the injection pump and injectors will put out.

You also maybe limited to axle gearing I imagine that truck has some low gears wouldn't be surprised they are in the 5 to 1 range.

After Jeff hauls all day with the truck he might be putting the forsale sign on the International and buying a newer truck with more power and a Fuller transmission :laugh

[Jeff D.]

After Jeff hauls all day with the truck he might be putting the forsale sign on the International and buying a newer truck with more power and a Fuller transmission :laugh

:bouncegri You'de be suprised with what I can tolerate in a truck.I did come a Ford L8000,with a 187hp 3208,and I was fine with that.That one couldn't get out of it's own way.This is actually a step up.:thumbsup

I really don't need to haul much it anyway with it.I'll use it to pull my antique backhoe and skidsteer around too,so.......

To be perfectly honest,I think I enjoy rebuilding the stuff more than using it.I look forward to that more than any other hobby.But I might as well make a little money with it too.:yup

Now I just need to find a John Deere 450 dozer sitting in the weeds somewhere and start my next project.:rolleyes:

[Squizzy246B]

:bouncegri
Now I just need to find a John Deere 450 dozer sitting in the weeds somewhere and start my next project.:rolleyes:

Whats that...A big Bonfire??:bouncegri

[Jeff D.]

Whats that...A big Bonfire??:bouncegri

Hey now,don't be like that!!:bouncegri

I had been looking at an Allis Chalmers dozer,so as least I'm moving forward somewhat.:rolleyes:

AND,if I remember correctly,it may have been someone you know that said "I never thought I'd have to worry about brand loyalty on this forum!"or something to that effect.

Now who said dat??Who dat be??:bouncegri

[Jeff D.]

Oh wait,I found it!!:eek:

Yep, I thought we didn't have to put up with p**sing contests on this forum over which brand is what.

And who was it that said this........................Hmmm??:waving

Squizzy,when you post something that's akward or embarrassing,just try and forget that it will be on the internet FOREVER,that everyone WILL eventually read it,and that most likely it will be used against you once you've forgotton you posted it.



:bouncegri

Hopefully you do realize I'm not serious??I know you weren't crappn' on John Deere's,but I just couldn't resist the chance!!:yup
(really meaning hopefully you're not gonna get me back with my old posts too!!)

[jmac]

Jeff, just got back from hauling loads about 20 mile each way with my Mack. Each load was about 10 to 14 yards. I wish I had more gears. One steep hill I have to climb I found out 3rd gear is all I can use about 25 to 30 mph in a 55 mph zone. Maybe Ford is right a 12 speed would be better. Empty, the truck hauls a**.

[Squizzy246B]

Oh wait,I found it!!:eek:

And who was it that said this........................Hmmm??:waving

:bouncegri

Hopefully you do realize I'm not serious??I know you weren't crappn' on John Deere's,but I just couldn't resist the chance!!:yup
(really meaning hopefully you're not gonna get me back with my old posts too!!)

Lol...OK you got me there:rolleyes: ...but it was more the age of the equipment...shouldn't this thread be in Old Iron??:bouncegri

[Ford LT-9000]

The old International/Dresser dozers are nice the 450 Deeres are leg killers with those brake steer pedals. I don't know if I would want a Fat Allis :laugh

The Internationals have the same transmission set up like a Caterpillar and steer the same.

jmac I thought you maybe wanting more gears the old Macks pull the best nice and low. A 12spd would be a easier swap as its a Mack transmission but if you could find a 13RTO Fuller it would be nicer for highway driving because you have half gears on the top 4. Also a 13spd has a H shift pattern so its easy shifting not like a 15spd double over where 4 and 3 are ass backwards.

[Jeff D.]

Lol...OK you got me there:rolleyes: ...but it was more the age of the equipment...shouldn't this thread be in Old Iron??:bouncegri

Shhh!!




I was hoping Digger wouldn't notice it here.:yup

[Jeff D.]

I wish I had more gears.

Maybe Ford is right a 12 speed would be better.

Rut-row!! He won't be able to get his shirt up over his head tonight,it'll be so swelled up now!!

Yeah,lot's of gears...........lot's of power..........preferably both huh??:yup

Well,atleast I've got the gears.:thumbsupeven if they are gas pot gears,hee.

[digger242j]

I was hoping Digger wouldn't notice it here.

I noticed it in the first post of the thread, but I was willing to give you the benefit of the doubt. :wink2

As far as lots of gears, I was calling around once, about 20 years ago, looking for a tandem dump, and I talked to a guy who had an International 2070 with a 238 Detroit, and a 13 speed Road Ranger with a 3 speed auxiliary behind it...

[Ford LT-9000]

The old Kenworth logging trucks were popular with 10spd or 13spd with a 4spd "A" box. Didn't older Macks have 3 sticks ?

They do make bigger 5spds the offroad logging trucks with 12v71s have 5+4s behind them but those trucks are pre 70s.

[jmac]

After today of hauling I come to the conclusion that I just have to live with it. I pull the hill in 3rd oh well the cars behind will have to wait. The local Mack dealer said that I could turn up my truck to more. I haven't considered it yet, what are the negitives to this. They said that I could get 350 to 375 hp out of it. That sounds like alot from 300hp.

[Ford LT-9000]

Most Macks in that year had 350hp it depends on what motor you have. Usually Macks in this area have the 285 or the 350 Mack they are only 12 litre engines so getting 350hp out of them is far as you want to go.

[Jeff D.]

Jmac,one thing you could check is to make sure your engine is performing to it's specs now.It may be due for an overhead(valve train adjustment),may have some bad injectors,etc.If you have a shop in the area that has a dyno,it may be worth checking into.It's not that expensive to have them dyno'd either.

Just don't watch when they do it.A truck on the dyno looks like it's being abused terrible,although it's not.I watch mine being dyno'd.:eek: Almost made the guy stop,I couldn't stand it.:yup

[Bob Horrell]

Jeff, what is your exhause like? I have a Walker catalogue that lists truck exhausts and gives their backpressure. I found mine was terrible. The exhaust entered in the front of the muffler and then exited out the side to go up to the stack. That muffler was listed as one of the worst for backpressure. I changed my exhaust around to a straight thru muffler and smoothed out the elbows etc. and picked up a gear on the hills. Mileage stayed the same though, because I always have my foot in it since most of my driving is in the hills.
I may be able to look up your exhaust to see what the backpressure is and then recommend replacement parts that would work better. It cost me less than $200 to modify mine. Let me know if I can help.

[Jeff D.]

Jmac,another question is how steep is this hill,and how long,that pulls you down to 30mph?

If it's 6%,and any length,dropping to 30mph,loaded at 55K,isn't unusual for a 300hp truck.

We've a 6% grade coming out of Duluth,thats a couple of miles long.In my truck with 460hp@75klbs gross weight,I'll drop to 30-35mph.

I've pulled the same hill with a 310hp Cat,same weight,at about 25-30mph.

12 liter engines often have much more than 350hp.A series 60 Detroit 11.1 liter can have upto 365hp,1150ftlbs torque.The 12.7liter series 60 I had was 500hp,1650 ftlbs torque.My current Mack motor is less than 12 liter,and it has 460hp @1800rpm,490 peak hp,1650ftlbs torque.

These all are electronic engines,so boost,exhaust temp,intake temp,etc,is monitored and the fuel is cut back when predetermined sensor measurements are exceeded.

If your engine has a mechanical pump higher horsepower can still be achieved,providing the pump and injectors are capable.But you'll have to monitor the exhaust temp when your pulling hard.

Cat 3406's started at at 310hp.Cat continued to increase the power,without changing displacement,upto 425hp,will still being a mechanical injected engine,and dependability never was an issue.

One area that does need to be checked is the maximium torque rating of the tranny.You wouldn't want to exceed that value.

If a Mack garage said it could turn it up,I wouldn't be so concerned about losing engine dependability,but still would install an exhaust temp guage,and monitor it.When it climbed to 1100degrees,just downshift,and/or let up on the fuel.

Or,the easiest and least expensive thing to do is,to do just what you said.
Realize it's limits,and drive it accordingly.Let em follow you up the hill slowly,it's not a race.

I do,and it doesn't even bother me:yup

Good luck!!

[Jeff D.]

Bob,
I put a single 4" straight through muffler up the side of the cab.It come out of the turbo at 3.5" the expands to 4" after about 2ft.then 4" the rest of the way.

I think the truck originally had a muffler like you'de mentioned.In the front,out the side,and mounted horizontally under the cab,with just a stack going up the cab.

I'm not sure how mine flows now,but I'm guessing better than it originally had from new.I replaced everything from the turbo back.Even had to get a shiny chrome gaurd for it,so no-one would get burnt.

The passenger door just misses the chrome guard when I open it.

[Jeff D.]

Bob,
I also looked at the radiator/hood forward clearance,and it APPEARED like an air-to-air would fit in there.There isn't anything on the radiator ends that would interfere with the plumbing.

I imagine an exhaust shop could make up the pipes to go from the turbo to cooler,and cooler to intake manifold.I'd just need some rubber boots for the connections,and mount the cooler with some type of rubber grommets so it wouldn't be as subject to cracking problems.

The truck has no AC,so interferance with that wouldn't be an issue.

I might snoop around to see if I can find a used cooler unit that'll fit.

[jmac]

Jeff, found out why my truck is lacking power. My air to air cooler has a hole in it. Mack tells me this is huge difference in power if it is working. The air to air cooler is $1300 plus labor to put it in, ouch! I found one on line for about $900. The Mack dealer ordered one from Mack I hate to cansel order with them after they ordered it for me.
John

[Ford LT-9000]

You are probably loosing lots of turbo boost I imagine the exhaust belching out is black as coal right now with a hole in the air to air (Intercooler).

The best way to order parts is right from Mack then you know its going to fit you get the aftermarket stuff then your fussing with it trying to make it fit.

With Mack they are a little odd ball there really is no aftermarket stuff for them they manufacturer pretty much everything for their trucks. Its why you hear people say Mack or Mutt a Mutt stands for a Mack truck with other manufacturers parts on it. Other parts is like a Fuller transmission or Hendrickson spring suspension over Camel back.

If its not Genuine Mack parts you will have troubles with it I know with their U joints they are a little different you can't get a aftermarket U joint or you couldn't before.

If your changing the intercooler better change all the intake hoses too if they look bad replace them. Also have the Mack dealer check the turbo when they pull the intake boot off. If you have a hole in the intake system it means you have dirt going through the turbo.

[jmac]

The after market is $730 and the OEM is $1377.12.
I ordered the after market for the $650 savings, I hope it fits. I also pissed of the Mack dealer who ordered it and had to cancel. I feel bad about that I am sure I will need them in future. $650 is $650. Pay's for alot of fuel.

[Squizzy246B]

Also have the Mack dealer check the turbo when they pull the intake boot off. If you have a hole in the intake system it means you have dirt going through the turbo.

How on earth do you figure a hole on output side of the compressor lets dirt into the turbine??:confused: :confused:

[jmac]

Squizzy I think Ford said intake side not output, but I could wrong. I did check to see what was involved to change air to air and it is 8 bolts. Looks real easy unless I am missing something. All the plumbing looks new. I also found a throtle limiter under pedal. Could never get RPM's over 1800 if I wanted to. I realize over 2000 is over revving but when I need the extra throtle I couldn't get it. Any comments on turning bolt down under pedal.

[nevrenufhp]

The bad part with those years of 466, is the pump. There's no good way to crank up the power without ruining the pump. The next best idea is to get a pump of an 84-92, and get the injector tubes, and intercooler stuff too. That's if you could find a donor.

[Jeff D.]

Jmac,although I'm not glad you found a problem,I'm glad to hear that you've found something that could improve your power.:thumbsup

That leak could make quite a difference in the performance,depending on how badly it was cracked.That's not an unusual problem either.

Keep us posted to how much it improves.

[Orchard Ex]

I also found a throtle limiter under pedal. Could never get RPM's over 1800 if I wanted to. I realize over 2000 is over revving but when I need the extra throtle I couldn't get it. Any comments on turning bolt down under pedal.
What is your Mack's red line supposed to be?
If it were me I'd change 1 thing at a time, intercooler first, then see if the rev's need to be turned up.

[jmac]

Thanks orchard thats what I will do air to air first than rev's.
Jeff, I am happy also that I found what it is I hope. Truck does blow exhaust black as coal. I was going to add a comment here but decided to keep it clean.

[digger242j]

Squizzy I think Ford said intake side not output, but I could wrong.

I've had to re-read it a couple of times.

You are probably loosing lots of turbo boost ...

Which would lead one to believe Ford was referring to the "output" side of the turbo, which leads to the "intake" side of the engine, which is what Squizzy is questioning.

If your changing the intercooler better change all the intake hoses too if they look bad replace them. Also have the Mack dealer check the turbo when they pull the intake boot off. If you have a hole in the intake system it means you have dirt going through the turbo.

Which, I think, means Ford is suggesting there could be a seperate problem there, which hasn't manifested itself yet, but could lead to turbo damage, so should be looked at as a precaution.

Although, I could be wrong too...

[Ford LT-9000]

If you have any kind of leaks on the intake side of the turbo its not good for it or the engine. If you take the intake boot off the turbo you should see the the turbo fins they will look a little worn if its been eating dust.

I looked up the peak torque on your engine its at 1400rpm the engine is governed at 1950 rpm it says you should cruise at 1500rpm which is pretty low. The old Macks were known to pull the best at lower rpms the old Mack I drove used to pull it down to 1200rpm.

The engines I'am used to is the old 400 Big Cam Cummins they rev to 2100 usually like to cruise at 1800 the torque is peaks at 1500rpm.

If you have some extra money down the road if you plan on keeping the old Mack try get some more gears behind it to keep the revs down. I imagine with the 7spd you have pretty big jumps bettween the gears.

[jmac]

Ford, I installed the air to air myself. Was hard to do because I let the unit drop down below the mounting brackets and then could not pull the unit back out, the way you are supposed to do it is pull unit out from the top, found that out the hard way. Had to cut the air intakes of with saws all so it would clear radiator. Now I know. The rest of the job went easy except that one mounting bracket on new unit was broken in shipping, had to weld it back on.
The plumbing did have some dust in it but turbo fan look "ok" hope I caught in time. The truck does have a lot more power, I can't pull hills in 5th but better than it was. Black smoke is less.
Mack wanted aroung $1600 to do it I did it for $730.00
Thanks for the help you and Jeff.

[Ford LT-9000]

You prolly caught it in time which is good if you had to replace the turbo that would be a expensive repair.

The next thing I would investigate is your muffler loaded up with carbon it might be time to put 6" straight pipe on the old truck :yup

[dgouty14]

i have the exact same truck as you same year and all i was just wondering if yours has air brakes and if not what you had to do to put an air seat in the truck

[RollOver Pete]

5X4 shifting order??I'm still not sure what the proper order is.

It's been about 100 years since I had a set of sticks...
But If I remember right...



..........L O ...................... R 2 4
.......... U D ...................... 1 3 5


Brownie...
L= low
U=under
D=direct
O=over


Most of the time I'd start in 2nd/U.
Depending on the load and grade you'd shift 2U, 2D, 2O...
3U, 3D, 3O, 4U, 4D, 4O, 5D, 5O...
Empty, you could go 2D, 3D, 4U, 5U, 5D, 5O.
To use the Low in your Brownie box, I think you had to just about come to a complete stop to get out of it.
In other words, it is a creeping gear....real slow.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
Like I said, its been a long time.
:cool: