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start2finish
03-04-2006, 08:06 PM
I am considering converting one of our gooseneck trailers to a fifth-wheel setup.
the trailer is a 35 foot tri-axle gooseneck now.21k rating

We are thinking of pulling it with a WL900 KW. I know this is overkill but the truck gets little use pulling our dump trailer and hopper trailer. I still have to pay the 2290 taxes and the insurance and $1000 tags. So no real additional expenses there. It would haul the load we use another gooseneck and two truck to pull (ford 250 and 350 diesels). and also move a backhoe around (7ton)

Any safety or legal issues with this?
I found a kit that costs 149.00 to replace the coupler and pipe with a kingpin.
I am aware I need to add an additional plug on the tractor for the different lighting setup on the lighter trailer as well as a electric brake controller.
Any other issues, any experience with this? The adapter is rated for 30k plenty for this application.

Jeff D.
03-04-2006, 10:26 PM
My opinion would be that it's a fine idea.

The only thing I can think that would be an issue is the clearance between the rear of the truck,and the front underside(by the landing gear)of the trailer.So long as it doesn't hit when you turn.

I pulled a 5th wheel camper with my FLD132 Freightliner,without any problems.I did have to slide the plate all the way back though,to avoid having the mudflaps contacting the camper during a turn.

I don't think there's any legal issues with the combination your considering being used on the road,although it would be better to check with your state first,just to be sure.I have seen similiar combinations used,so it must be legal in some states.

Good Luck.

Jeff D.
03-06-2006, 01:40 AM
Start2finish,one other thing I forgot to mention was that,at least on my Freightliners,I needed to push the red valve IN to get proper braking on the tractor,even with the electric brakes on the trailer.

The reason is because when the valve is out,and your moving,normally you'de be bobtailing.The tractor drive axle brakes would be way to touchy without any weight on them,so they designed a proportion valve to reduce the air to the cans on the drives,if you were bobtailing.The steer axle continues to get the normal air.

To overcome that you can get two glad hands.Thread a plug into the port where you'de normally thread the hose,and connect them to the hoses on the truck.They'll keep the air from escaping while the red(trailer supply)valve is pushed in.Then you'll have normal brakes on the truck,while your pulling the trailer.

Just don't forget too pull the valve back out when you disconnect,otherwise you could end up locking up the drives while bobtailing.

start2finish
03-06-2006, 06:43 AM
are you talking about connecting the line together of dead end plugs?

Jeff D.
03-06-2006, 10:32 AM
The lines need to be plugged at the ends,so the air won't rush out while the trailer valve is pushed in.

The two plugged glad hands connected to the hoses will prevent it,and they're easy to remove when you switch back to pulling a trailer with air brakes.

After putting the plugs on,they(the hoses) can just be bungeed to the deck plate,since they won't fit back in the holder anymore.

Ford LT-9000
03-07-2006, 12:44 AM
If all you are going to do is pull the trailer with the truck tractor is chop off the gooseneck and add a reach to the trailer and make it a pintle pull. You can add to the deck space too. You will just need to make a apron up for the back of the tractor for the pintle if you don't have one on the truck now.

start2finish
03-09-2006, 06:05 PM
I don't want to remove the gooseneck from the trailer. This setup will allow me to still pull the trailer with a pickup. about 15 min to change the adapter back to a gooseneck coupler. As for the air line tip, never heard of that, but you are right the tractor is hard to stop bobtail. Thanks guys